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Getting ready for a car show for United Way where I DID WORK. It has been a while for me. Hoping to post my last peace of the puzzle soon. Take Care. Gary B.

I'm late to this party but thought everyone would get a laugh out of this garage in Grayling Michigan. All four sides are covered with license plates. [emoji4] Dave Burley Sent from my tractor seat.

Just picked up a 57 Ride away. A few odds and ends and it will be perfect. With that said does anyone have a set of the correct front wheels available?

Well you know this thread needed an update when it was three pages deep! Sorry for the delay, I've been chipping away at it. I got the motor back from the machine shop and luckily everything turned out fine. I have my 6 thousands just like Kohler specs. I worked with the local lawn and garden shop owner and put together the engine. He taught me a few things about the Kohlers I didn't know. We fired it up and ran it on Sat and it runs like a top. I need to get it painted this week. I ordered high temp engine paint from Eastwood but it's a smidge too bright of a red for me compared to the PPG I sprayed. I've been reading a lot about engine painting and most seem to just spray an etch primer or epoxy primer and a top coat or urethane or enamel. I think I'm going to spray the same epoxy/urethane I did the rest of the tractor with. Any thoughts or suggestions? Here's some pics of the progress. I also got the hood/fender wet sanded and polished. I super happy with how well they turned out. Looking forward to getting the engine painted so I can make some real progress on reassembly. Back home... New valves.... Head after coming back from the machine shop.... Head after I got done lapping it on my granite slab.... Engine steam cleaned and ready for reassembly new governor gear in... Compression release on the cam "realigned" Getting close.... Break in time!! Paint all buffed out!! Bob's dash is in! Looks awesome! Brand new 42" RD deck I bought off another member ready to go on...

Half your wish, would look similar to this...

Who's that peering thru my back window?

The biggest made at that time would be a Suburban 550. The tiller would be a pull behind with its own Techie engine, the plow was also available, but you would have to fabricate the backhoe; I would love to see it, that would be sooooooooo cute! Actually the WT-30 for the Suburban was before those pull behind models. It mounted right to the rear of the tractor, used a K-90 and came with a speed reduction kit. more pictures here..... Gallery link The WT-241/WT-242/WT-244 lift bar wouldn't fit in the smaller welded steel slot hitch of the Suburban 400 / 550 / 401. The slot hitch dimensions got a little bigger with the introduction of the two piece unidrive and cast slot hitch in1961 with the 551 and 701.

What a surprise! I received an honor due to this restore. The Tractor Data website decided to use my images of this restore as the example tractor. Pretty cool, indeed. http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/4/7/478-wheel-horse-10hp-photos.html

picked up a 604 on Friday in good shape wrong color but it's been that way for 10yrs. I didn't like the green so changed it to black always wanted to do that to one and figured this one whould look good black. Just have to get #'s on it and a new drive belt , speaking of what # is the belt/size?

Very nice new ...congrats.

The gas tank you're looking for looks like this; The engine should look like this when you complete yours:

So I guess with only one old Lawn Boy setting in my shed, I do NOT have a problem?

Well all the bodywork paid off. The paint turned out fantastic on the fender and hood. It took a long time to get all the dings and dents out of the hood but it paid off! I'm pumped!

Hi everyone! Steve here. I am a newbee Wheel Horse owner. I buought what I believe to be a 1960 Wheel Horse 400 or 550 at an auction 2 weeks ago, It does not have an original engine (has a briggs 5hp). My plan is to restore it so it can be used by my 3 (soon to be 4) grandkids to cruize around our small farm. I found this site after looking around on the web and in a short time have realized there are good people here and great information. So...... Here I go on a the restoration. Getting the steering wheel off proved to be a fun first challange :*****: ! Here are some picsof our project!.

This guy is either braver or stupider than me. Hope this link works video

So... Purchasing the first truck didn't work out. CT. doesn't require a title on vehicles 25 yrs or older but you do you need a past registration to prove continuity of ownership.. Come to find out the owner never registered the truck in the ten yrs he has owned it. He just used a repair plate when he used it and so did the guy before him so that leaves me with zip for paperwork. No thanks, I don't feel like dealing with the nightmares at the DMV.. Now, I just need to try and get my 500 dollar deposit back. Meanwhile, a truck popped up on Craigslist yesterday afternoon and it was really the type of truck I wanted to begin with. Something heavy duty that can haul a bed full of firewood when needed. So what was I to do? Well, I had to go check it out which meant playin hooky today. Oddly it was only 3 miles away from the blue truck. Long story short, I bought this 1970 C30 Long Horn. Its a one owner truck with only 86,000 original miles on it. The owner had his own roofing company and this truck was NEVER left outside over night and it was NEVER driven in the snow. He was the only person to drive it as well. It has ZERO rust on it and I mean ZERO which is amazing for a CT. truck. It has a 350 with a 4 speed with granny gear. It runs and rides real nice. I have all of the original paper work and owners manual. The purchase price new was almost 3800 bucks. The guy really liked this truck and took great care of it, After very little hand polishing today I can tell that the paint will shine real nice on this old girl. What does it need? Well, the whole going over but I do know it has a bad wheel cylinder in the rear, the muffler has a hole in it and it will need a new set of tires soon. When I got off the exit for my house I happened to notice a green Dodge behind me. It followed me right to my driveway. I'm thinkin WTF did I cut this guy off or something? He gets out of his truck and walks up to me and asks... you wanna sell that Long Horn? Nope! I'm sure everyone will like the last pic best!

does Iowa have these chearleaders still?

Brian, The front wheels on the 60" deck are not original. I have one with them and one without. There is a dealer service bulletin instructing dealers to weld them on from about 1989. I've seen lots of different versions of front wheels, and yours are the TALLEST ones I have ever seen. Mine are more like the fixed height oval rollers on the 48" decks. I'm sure your clearance problems are related to those very tall front wheels. Maybe it would slide under if those wheels were dropped all the way down to the ground? I know that some guys drive over, but I have had trouble with the deck spitting forward when I try to drive on, and I worry about doing something stupid in the process like damaging a front tire or snapping off a zerk fitting. It seemed like a great idea when I first heard it, but it just didn't save me any time or effort when I tried it.

@WHX4 There are several products out there like this, but I would suggest using glazing putty rather than the high build primer. The putty takes about a 1/2 hour to dry, and then you can immediately sand it smooth. Higher quality repairs, and much faster process than what you're planning. Also, I would suggest doing the sand blasting, ultra sonic, then lightly sand blast again. The "brownish" you're seeing is rust forming on the surface. It'll eventually work its way back out in about three years after the restore. I would do the last sandblast, spray them off with air, wipe down with Preps-All, and get them lightly into primer in about 15 minutes time. Then use the glazing putty to fill any small imperfections. That way the rust is gone for good, and the surface is smooth and ready for paint. Just a suggestion. ttps://advanceautopaint.com/shop/usc-red-glazing-putty/ My RJ rims started out like this: And ended up looking like this. That is the same rim and tire as above.

Cool Mike. I wasn't sure if you had a usable 3523 gear and I was willing to send him one of mine if it passed the Steve and Mike inspection. I do have an extra input shaft with very good teeth but the shaft itself is scored pretty bad so it wouldn't seal. You've got Ed taken care of so all is good

S

This is a '61 belt guard pictured here... difference was the 1960 version only had the vertical line rolled into it...didn't include horizontal...was the same overall shape though.

For a few days Red?? Who can wait that long with this kind of addiction?!?!? ....You know darn well I am probably going to have finger prints all over them in short order! Can I just put them in the wife's oven to help the process along? I bet that would fly with her real well.... Seriously I should let them dry and get into that tranny...

I think that's backwards.

Work is coming along but not as quickly as i hoped, blasted hot weather has got me jumpin....Did get to work on the front rims a little last night. Found this primer at a big box so going to try it rather than the self etching. Got a coat on and it did ok on some of the smaller pits. 'nother coat tonite with some pics. Funny how the cloride only attacked the outside while the insides are clean!?!?!? By the way I dumped the cloride from them on some pesky weeds...makes a good weed killer!

My 701 came with the dozer blade that seems to be fairly difficult to find. Since my kids and I were having so much fun driving the 701 around I decided to get my feet wet with restoring the blade first. It was in pretty rough shape as you can see. All of the metal had severe pitting. My first idea was to strip it and use primer filler and rattle can paint. I spent about 4 hours wire wheeling the frame rails. Through trial and error this seems to be the most effective method to remove the paint and rust. I had the frame rails stripped and I realized that unless I had it sand blasted that I was never going to be able to get into all of the nooks to remove the rust. I made the decision to take it to a shop to have it sand blasted and powder coated. I decided on powder coating for its tough finish. The only downside is that the pitting is visible through the finish. While I've spent much more on it than I wanted to, I love how it has turned out. I ordered all new 316 grade stainless hardware from fastenal. I got the parts back today and put it back together this afternoon. The last piece I need to get is the wear plate for blade and it will be finished.

Darn! I knew it was your birthday, knew that you knew that no one had made your birthday wish backhoe for it, but for a moment I thought maybe you would make your own dream come true and build one! Then it became my wish to see one! Wouldn't that be NEAT?!? Maybe a good retirement project.lol I'll be following your progress!

Darn! I knew it was your birthday, knew that you knew that no one had made your birthday wish backhoe for it, but for a moment I thought maybe you would make your own dream come true and build one! Then it became my wish to see one! Wouldn't that be NEAT?!? Maybe a good retirement project.lol

What about Southern Cleveland State????? I vote for 15. Any more and we'll need one of those old adding machines with the lever to keep track

Yes Rick had quite the collection. I only got to see the tractors that were auctioned. They were impressive.

Here are pictures of mine. I thought I had a picture of the tires hitting, but I guess not. This is the lift bar and attachomatic hitting, with the deck on the ground with wheels lowered. The lift only has to lift it slightly to get it to lock in. I have since lowered the front rollers, and it isn't as bad, but it isn't easy.

to be continued...ppplayoffs...don't talk about pplayoffs. I want Notre Dame in this. I think it will separate the men from the boys. But just the Big Ten and Notre Dame...after that...it becomes too much to post and keep up with. Having Notre Dame in there, will keep us watching the rest of the teams when it gets down into conference play. I like that. I am going to LaSueur next week...so unless all hell breaks loose about this...Notre Dame is going to be one of the teams we pick this year. Make up our minds by this Saturday...I would like to post the 1st games like this Sunday or Monday...if you don't like it...file a complaint with Brrly1...he will have a process that you have to go through to get your complaint heard...(what did he say Ethel!!!!)...he said Brrly1 would give you a fair hearing and rule on his dissension in good time...sometime before Iowa looses it's 5th game this year....could be October. OMG...it's going to be a fun season. BIG TEN + ND = ????

I have about all the horses and attachments I need or have room for including the loader. The one thing I would really love to have is a backhoe like Wallfish built. Unfortunately I don`t have the welding skills or the patients. John, if you see this you should post up a good picture to have these Newbies and a lot of Oldies drooling all over their `puters!

Steve, As far as how many we have saved who knows.. I have shipped parts all over and Complete transmissions to Massachutes..Texas...North Carolina..New York as well as indiana ohio and Pa... I even had one older fella drive out from New Jersey to my place in North west ohio on a Saturday Morning we re-built his 953 trans he loaded it back up and turn around and drove back to Jersey...The things we do for these little machines is a blast and the people make it fun!!...As far as the 3523 gear that is the biggest problem I have found...for about every 4 I tear down 1 of them gears can be re-used...As they are no longer available new this gear I think is what is going to be the thorn in these transmissions...

Frank, you have certainly posted your inquiry in the right place, in order to get the info you desire; however, it is evident that posting a bit more info will return a more accurate answer. Specifically, How does the engine run, Smoke? Knock? What about the Hydro? While butted up against a fixed object {such as a tree, and without chains} will it spin the rear tires? Are the 3 Point Hitch and Dozer / Snow Plow included? Do you have a deck that is going to be included? How tight is the steering? Ect... Mark.

Its been three years since I rescued and restored an A-800 with the intention of bringing it home to mow the grass in my garden rather than keep it with the other horses out at the fields and barn. So this...... became this....... A slight custom job in terms of the different fender pan, seat arrangement, and steering wheel. However, two years on and it was still at the barn as I never got round to restoring a deck for it. The one that it came with being basically beyond repair. Almost half of the top of the shell was gone and had been replaced by a plate welded underneath. Probably gave it a few years extra life but by now the sides of the shell were rotting through as well. It would have been a whole lot of work to fab a new shell, particularly if it was to resemble an original. Trouble is that these little decks don't come up that often over here in the UK and when they do they're often not much better than this. I managed to find one that had been fiber-glassed top and bottom and although it was a gamble in terms of what was beneath it, it looked as though most of the strengthening ribs were still in existence - essential if it stood any chance of passing for anything like original after restoration. The fiberglass was difficult to remove and having struggled to get a small patch off, the rest had to be done in small sections along cut lines made with a small cutting disk in an little air powered tool. The fiberglass had held on pretty well despite the rust it had been applied over so it was a lengthy task to remove it all and then de-rust and treat the metal underneath. I left the fiberglass on the top of the shell intact as it was pretty much all that was holding the it in shape at this stage. The good news though was that the ribs that I wanted to save were pretty much intact. The above photo shows I think why welding in new sections was out of the question as most of the metal would have needed cutting away. The next step was to check the alignment of the two pulleys, one of which was out of line where the shell had already given in to belt tension before the last repair had been made. Fortunately there was enough give in what was left now to beat the shell till the pulley alignment was as good as it was going to get. To stabilize the structure, fiberglass paste (resin and chopped glass) was applied with a plastic spreader including filling the reinforcement ribs. With the underside strengthened just enough for now it was time to see what the top of the deck shell was actually like. Not bad really, certainly it could have been far worse. Fiberglass paste was applied over the repair areas then sanded back flush before surface filler is used later. The extent of the rotted away metal can be seen in the next photo - an effect I happened to notice while moving the deck. The underside of the shell will be getting three thicknesses of standard fiberglass matting to provide the necessary strength but not till the weekend as there's other bits to get underway first. I thought it a good idea to take the original deck apart so that the best bits from both could be selected to go to the shop for refurb. Although it looked unlikely that there'd be anything better on this one - there was! The pillar pulley assembly ran much more smoothly as did the idler pulley. Not surprising really as all of the pulleys had been replaced at some point (I seem to recall now the PO of the A-800 mentioning that but I'd forgotten about it.) The belts had obviously been replaced as well and are both OK to use so the original deck did have some useful parts on it after all. More photos to follow soon. The aim is to fiberglass the shell at the weekend so for the moment all the bits and bobs are in the shop being sorted and some now repainted and hanging up to dry. Andy

Got a new toy! its a WW2 military compressor with a Briggs model N engine. we allready had it running after some fresh gas/petrol. not more than a few seconds but it ran. and here's some pictures

What the hump??? That is one big asp Lawn Ranger Mike.

May be time to pull the head and clean out the carbon check the valves, and clean all the cooling fins.

The bowl is a fuel shut-off and strainer, and yes, you will run a hose from there to the carburetor on its left side (looking forward on the tractor) as shown below. There are a series of high resolution pictures of my restoration on the following web page. They may come in handy to you. I would venture to say that mine is abut the most accurate restore you're likely to find, so you can count on the correctness of what you see in the photos. The only thing incorrect in all those photos is the bowl on the carb. In the images it is shaped like a tuna can, but should be a half round. I'll see if I can get a picture of the engine today, as it has the correct bowl on it now. Didn't when these pics were taken. And I guess you could say the ty-wraps are incorrect as well. http://www.mywheelhorse.com/modules.php?name=docs2&do=show_doc&id=34 EDIT: Add Picture of correct bowl

We should have a separate section or just a post with links. If you dig up all the ancient posts you will bury people's current problems... One or two are fine and fun, but dont do a bunch. Just my opinion.

Such a downfall design with the third gear engagement situation. Other than that, I really like these trannys.

"No...green stuff in your shed is definitely a problem... as it's wasting the space for more red items." Actually Craig it is an old shed on "stilts" -- I no longer trust it with anything red -- 25 years ago yeah my 310 stayed in there -- Now, no way!!

oh boy.....

417A with 42 deck blower bagger, 52" hydraulic "V" blade, snow cab oh wait, I already have them! After that would be loader, trailer, grader blade York rake, dethatcher, cultivator, 7000 watt generator, and enough 417a's for each attachment!

You guys are great, just in case you haven't been recognized for your wealth of knowledge and eagerness to help. I'm just going to make some new straps out of steel banding (clamp material) instead of trying to clean up and reshape old ones. One trick we use in my industry is to line the inside of band clamps with felt. It serves two purposes with pipe organs (I build them for a living)--seals any tiny leakage and dampens vibration. In this case I'm hoping to remove any chance of noise. I was thinking of riveting the straps via the holes, and tacking them with a welder. But bolting would be quicker and removable. I'll see what mood I'm in when I get to it.

On your transmission...take a look at the brake band mount on the side plate. If it is vertical, it is a #5003...if it is at a 45 degree angle, it is a #5010. It should be a #5010. Bearings, bronze bearings, seals are available. The axle seals are only available from TORO and are about #18 each. Let's see what you need after you open it up.

Congratulations on such Beautiful machines! Just a suggestion, but perhaps you can take individual photos (or several photos) of each of these tractors, to be entered into the Photos Gallery as perfect examples of completely original tractors. These would be great for reference. Just my humble opinion. I am jealous!