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When I first got my wheel horse the first thing on my buddys mind was tug of war. I just recently got it running and that was good enough for him. I am still fairly young and stupid so I agreed. I must admit my money was on his tractor a 69 cub cadet 104 he had me by weight, horse power, traction (tire chains), and the fact that my wheel horse isn't up to snuff yet. So we chained up, fired up our tractors,and to my surprise my wheel horse held its own. They both just sat there digging ruts. Needless to say it ended in a draw. Things might be different when I get it running right!

BTW a similar scenario played out in my neighborhood when I first brought home my 520-H. My neighbor, with his brand new Craftsman 23hp garden tractor decided it would be fun for the kids to see which daddy's tractor would win a tug-o'-war. He had supreme confidence that his brand new hydro driven GT would be stronger than my 25-year-old Wheel Horse. This is what happened... Keep in mind that this took place on an asphalt street. We both hitched up to a car tow strap. The kids all shouted "ready... set... go!" His tractor jerked my 520-H back a couple inches (I had taken my foot off the brake but hadn't engaged the drive yet. There is about that much play in an Eaton--I call it the slush factor) and then stopped just sitting there all locked up when the pressure built up on the hydro valves from rolling. Then I eased the motion control forward and he left skid marks with his brand new tires as his tractor started sliding backwards. He did something and hit the brake, or let up--I couldn't tell. Then he put the hammer down on his cheaply made foot pedal and the front end of his tractor lifted up. This entire time I was steadily dragging him backward. The kids thought it was great fun. Before I turned to look at him, I got all the smiles out so I could pretend to be empathetic in his miserable defeat. The whole thing kind of felt like I was dragging a log that had a little fight in it. Ever since that storied weekend afternoon, the neighbors all have respect--and awe--for the mighty Wheel Horse. I've mentioned this in another thread, but since that day several Wheel Horses have been showing up in the neighborhood. Mostly 300 & 400 series. There is no denying what these awesome machines are capable of. And, every time I fire up the unmistakable-sounding Onan, someone pops their head out to take a look. Some of those one-upsmanship guys scramble their shiny new tractors at that moment. They were not around on that fabled day. I should hook two or three of them up to the 522xi and see what happens!

Do the math: pound for pound tractor + deck + driver = total weight engine HP per pound = ? All you had to do was stand on the pedals and lean forward... Get some rear chains, a deck and a cup holder - loser buys the beverages.... Also - That's nice vintage CC he's got there - good on both Y'All for being into old tractors.

Put chains on that bad boy and he will be riding on a TEDAC BUC !!!

heres the custom brush guard/bumper I made yesterday for my a-90 special.what do you think?

I had a B6000 with the 3 cylinder diesel and 4wd. It is the ONLY tractor I have ever regretted selling - and folks who know me, know that I've bought and sold more than my fair share over the years. It was a fantastic machine. Someone made me an obscene offer for it and I sold it. I still think I should have kept it.

I gave four of them a ride this month! They we're destroying my sisters garden and yard!

This little vagrant took up residency under my horse barn. So I fed him some apples and took him for a ride on the 875.

Yes, they do have an "O"-ring. They are called ORB fittings.....O Ring Boss fittings.

I agree as well and you should try that test. Here's my thoughts on seeing if you can feel it 'lock' in to the detents in all gears. The shifter has the ability to actually move the forks past the detents but it doesn't because the gears physically stop it. The shifter doesn't do a thing to keep the transmission in a particular gear, the detents do. By moving through the gears gently you will feel when the detent balls engage. If you feel them engage as you shift to first, the shifter got them where they belong. I also agree that the 1st/reverse fork looks suspect in the picture and it's the area the shifter contacts to put it in 1st gear.

For them really pesky sheds... I like to say...go big, or stay home.

Yep, i agree with @slammer302, the rubber mounts make for a really smooth single cylinder experience. I also like the separated clutch/brake just because I like the finer control when using it on hills or with a big load. It can be scary to have that dead band in there between brake release and clutch engagement. But I can understand your quest for simplicity, and (while I think WH was about the simplest tractor that you could buy for the tasks at hand) it shouldn't take much to implement your changes. Just some custom linkages and machine work for the engine mounts.

the rubber mounted engine can be a pain if the mounts are worn but if you replace the rubber mounts with new ones it makes for a sweet ride and lees hood shaking

I have read up on the eatons, and the reason they feel that way is the same reason you can push it without a tow valve. They have "soft start" acceleration valves that bleed off some of the pressure before fully engaging drive. (They also help the unit have a larger neutral range to limit creeping, very multi purpose valves) I have been trying to figure a way to disable this without making it feel super jerky or damaging the unit. I would be curious what it felt liie without them.

Bach-Ed, there's spring loaded detent balls that engage in grooves on the shifter rails when it's in gear. You can feel them when you shift into gear. Try going through each gear with the motor not running and see what each gear feels like.

Wow! did a good job with no chains or weights. Wheel horse power Dave

what caliber is that? I imagine they won't heal from those stings! I love my 17HMR, need more varmints in the field to pop at! 22.250 Remington 700 bull barrel with a 12x mounted on top! Glasses and floated with a very light trigger pull. Coyote - Hog buster. I lose sleep wondering with my lower caliber weapons (if they happen to make it back to thier dens) if I have done my job. No guess work with the 250! Just way to many of the destructive varmints this year. Big sis is forever greatful especially after her husband shot thier shed. When Sheds become pests, they require much bigger armament!

Thats a good little story. The mighty horse,,,,,,,,thanks for sharing. Glenn

Not necessarily. Early sunstrands used ATF (Dexron) later ones used 10w30 motor oil. I would stick with what ever is curently in there as they do not mix well and a complete flushing uses a lot of expensive fluid. ATF will be cherry koolaid red, motor oil tan.

I do not believe they had a manual lift eaton 1100. The first few black hoods that came out had Sundstrand hydros and then all later units where fitted with eatons. I do believe all the eaton 1100's had hydro lift. But for what ever reason, some of the early Sundstrand came through as optional. I had a C-125A with a Sundstrand that had manual lift, which currently resides at Bill Jenkins house if anyone wants to buy it. Also Bill had a c-125 with a Sundstrand with hydro lift. So I am taking it as optional. I sold mine because I never could justify having the hydro with manual lift.

what caliber is that? I imagine they won't heal from those stings! I love my 17HMR, need more varmints in the field to pop at! 22.250 Remington 700 bull barrel with a 12x mounted on top! Glasses and floated with a very light trigger pull. Coyote - Hog buster. I lose sleep wondering with my lower caliber weapons (if they happen to make it back to thier dens) if I have done my job. No guess work with the 250! Just way to many of the destructive varmints this year. Big sis is forever greatful especially after her husband shot thier shed.

I have to dispatch mine quietly, can't shoot a real gun, other than hunting season, and even then, shotgun only.

I hope that when she blows, you are not in the line of fire when some piece comes rocketing out in your direction at 100 MPH.

I just picked up this 1990 Wheel Horse 520-8 and was wondering if it came with the 5073 10 pin limited slip transmission. Also slipped in a picture of my 1969 GT-14.

Just bought my first Wheelhorse but have admired this style for 20+ years after seeing my first rolling chassis at an auction. Not sure on the exact year but has a Kohler 181S spec 30108A engine, that needs carb rebuilt. Where can I get a rebuild kit for it to stop the gas from coming out of carb. The float seems free and level to carb body which was my first thought and a rebuild kit couldn't hurt anyways.

You probably reckon correctly. The K181 engine didn't come standard on a Wheel Horse until 1964 on an 854. The engine you have, based on the Spec number, is probably off (or a replacement for) the 1964 854 or a 1965 855 or 875-Auto.

I reckon it's not the original engine then, defiantly says 181S spec 30108. I'll look for that number under the dash after dinner.

What numbers are on your engine? The tractor serial number tag should be on the dashboard riser below the dashboard. See image below. TRACTOR MANUAL: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Tractors/TR_1962_502-552-702_502P.pdf TRANS MANUAL: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Transmissions/Transmission_Uni-drive_1958_-_1982.pdf ENGINE SERVICE MANUAL: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Engines/Kohler_K91-141-161-181-241-301-321-341_tp_2379_SM.pdf

On the engine but nothing anywhere else,(Where do you look ?) googled the engine number for carb rebuild kit but it comes up with several to choose from. Just not sure which is the right one.

for sum reason i remember reading some where on here the the sunstrands with out hydro lift used motor oil and the ones with the lift used trans fluid and from what i've seen that has been true the electro 12 i had for a while had the red trans fluid in it and my dads charger 10 with out the lift had motor oil in it and i also noticed it is kinda jerky and will give you wipp lash if not used to it also has been repowered with 16hp kohler so it has plenty of power its his primary lawn mower he says he does not like the location of the motion lever on alot of the newer eatons

You should not have safety switches on the 857. You should be able to put it into 1st gear...close the seat...climb on and push in the clutch and start it...let out the clutch and take it for a ride. Can you see the face of the fork that I am talking about?? Is it just the light from the camera that makes it look chewed up? You could weld a little material on the ball of that shifter and then grind it to be correct. Do you have pictures of the gears from when you rebuilt it?? I don't think it is the detente balls and spring if you can shift it into the other 3 gears and it feels OK shifting.

Thanks for your help guys. Its a 1989 310-8 with a 37" deck and he's asking $1150. Is it a good deal?

Got the carb done last nite, Berrymans worked exceptionally well. Had to modify the float tang a little to get it to work with the new inlet valve. Have to figure out how to "antique" the new filter to get it look right with the rest of the engine. Can't have shiney new parts on it! Hopefully it works and makes the Clinton putt....putt. Hats off to my friend Beef for helping.... works R&D at Kohler Engines. He used to work for Keihin Fuel Systems and is a real carb pro! Better shot of the tranny nos. if it helps anyone in ID it.....

I agree. The problem seemed to be with the valve for the cylinder. It went down fast with gravity, but came up really slowly. He wanted too much for that tractor, and I was trying to find excuses in my mind for not overspending for a Kohler twin, even though the problem seemed correctable. I wouldn't mind having the lift, but that wasn't a deal breaker this time around. And, I got a really good deal on the C-125. The K301 will probably outlast the twin anyway.

If I were you, I would weld that lift flag back on, sell your XI tiller and buy the right one... You could have probably sold it for twice what you can find a classic tiller for (XI attachments are more rare). Now with a rewelded flag you may still get 1.5 times as much... But I understand as a machinist you can "make it work". The cross brace on my tiller is not flush with the outside of the frame, it sits offset "down" pretty far and it does not hit the hitch location when raised. You would have to get it up pretty far to get that to hit, but I havent tried.

Better for driving at shows but when you work them the front axle would not have the stops and the cable got hung up on the frame and broke. Many frames were cut or knotched to allow cables to pass through.

Our neighbors have named theirs Gordon - I pronounce it "Gor-don" CB loads or 22 short are about the same noise, trajectory and so on...just saying. My situation prohibits me from using such "high speed lead poisoning" techniques but I like the style. I'm limited to air propulsion and prefer the Crossman America Classic in 177 flavor since my Crossman 357 detonated - short range only... There are no "Reds" nearby to keep out of the shed but there's a few "black & white Stripes" around - the gray tree rats are not a problem - no "racing stripes" aka Chippers either. Not here, not yet. If I were serious about some fruit - the raspberries would have netting etc. - I'd plant a pear, an apple and a different apple tree and plock a hammock down and just keep things in order using a 177 single stroke like I was 8 years old again...

A little longer and you could have installed a six-pack... now that would be something

i'll mount a go pro to the side of the block whenever I run it. I'll wear one on my head so it looks 3D when the piston shoots out at me.

Ask someone to take pics in the ER too. (too sick?)

http://www.toro.com/en-us/parts/Pages/PartsDetails.aspx?mybeid=6563&serialNumber=None&modelNumber=C1-20OE01&searchTerm=9lzIRv+p5zdTgaonWZrS44Gvo4ZOV8qCx8qDDlWvbx7xdE6zQE0dC+uVUMubSSMyFX8lNBZVHqA=&defaultTab=parts#toro-parts-lookup-tabs Toro shows 3 different labels for the HC. The one with no lights is number 17

You didn't waste my time, we all enjoy presenting our opinion and sharing information, but in the end it is yours to do with as you please. If you know she is about to blow PLEASE grab a video camera and post it here.

Got to work on this little gem this weekend and got everything tore down. Got everything bagged and tagged & lots of pics as to how it was. Can't believe my luck as fasteners came out with relative ease. Nothing stripped out or twisted off. Even the sometimes stubborn shift lever dog point set screw backed right out! In an effort to save as much OEM paint I decided not to pressure wash anything as that would have surely blasted alot more paint off. Will have to do it school by hand with regular parts cleaner..lots of crud on the frame rails. The motor really doesn't need to be tore into but I am going to pull the head to check the bore pending availability of a head gasket. The oil that came out was fairly clean. The cylinder head and fin were completely filled with mud dauber nests. but should wire brush up ok. Tranny on the other hand is going to be tore down. Upon getting the shift lever out and pouring out the rally nasty looking gunk in ther I noticed metal shavings ....oh oh... lots of metal particals clinging on the lower shift lever as well. The hubs slid right off but ther does seem to be side slop in the axle bearings or bushings in there. Seals will need to be replaced in the brake & input pulley as well. If anyone has a good source for tranny parts I am all ears. I believe it to be a 5003-5010. Going to get the motor happening before I pull it apart to find out if it's got the ball or needle bearings in it. Going to be a slowww process as this $()&# thing called work keeps interfering with things. Family already asks if I got a bed out in the garage!?!?!? Got the easy stuff done - flywheel cleaned up and ready to go, only part I painted as it don't show anyway, gotta have some rattle can time right? Magnet was real loose and one of the threads were mangled - chased out real nice tho and a few drops of 271 loctite should do. Don't want that bugger to come loose and take out the ignition coil!

Hey guys, I just posted (2) 520-H tractors for sale. If any of you are interested, I could certainly hold one until the weekend of this meet and greet! They are in the for sale section. Thanks!

Seems like that's about right for book time... I just lost the book.

Indoor plumbing, and shoes.

Tim, you have to position the little lever on the right side (when facing the rear of the tractor) to a position that just lets you get the support bar of the tiller into the tachamatic hitch. The position is not "full open" with the lever straight up, more like 45 degrees from vertical. Then, and only then can you slip it into the hitch and finally move the lever down. I think I read this in the WH manual. Suggest you download one from the manuals section on RS. I also keep my tiller on a dolly and like Slammer, I use a 2x4 to raise up the back and slip it under the hitch. Do not despair, first time I put my tiller on it took 90 minutes. Now I can do it in 30!

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+1 on the NAPA 1410,I have been using NAPA filters for a long time. It doesn't hurt that I have a commercial account at the NAPA store!

You don't need anything but a battery, good coil, points, and spark plug to get ignition. Stator, regulator and all that are superfluous to having a spark. Be sure that the points are opening and closing on each revolution, and that the contacts are clean. Make sure you have a good condenser. The ignition needs 12 volts to the coil and the points make and break the circuit to create the high voltage at the tip of the plug. As long as the battery is good and you have a flow of 12 volt from it through the switch to the coil you should get spark. The other stuff mentioned is for charging.