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When I first got my wheel horse the first thing on my buddys mind was tug of war. I just recently got it running and that was good enough for him. I am still fairly young and stupid so I agreed. I must admit my money was on his tractor a 69 cub cadet 104 he had me by weight, horse power, traction (tire chains), and the fact that my wheel horse isn't up to snuff yet. So we chained up, fired up our tractors,and to my surprise my wheel horse held its own. They both just sat there digging ruts. Needless to say it ended in a draw. Things might be different when I get it running right!

BTW a similar scenario played out in my neighborhood when I first brought home my 520-H. My neighbor, with his brand new Craftsman 23hp garden tractor decided it would be fun for the kids to see which daddy's tractor would win a tug-o'-war. He had supreme confidence that his brand new hydro driven GT would be stronger than my 25-year-old Wheel Horse. This is what happened... Keep in mind that this took place on an asphalt street. We both hitched up to a car tow strap. The kids all shouted "ready... set... go!" His tractor jerked my 520-H back a couple inches (I had taken my foot off the brake but hadn't engaged the drive yet. There is about that much play in an Eaton--I call it the slush factor) and then stopped just sitting there all locked up when the pressure built up on the hydro valves from rolling. Then I eased the motion control forward and he left skid marks with his brand new tires as his tractor started sliding backwards. He did something and hit the brake, or let up--I couldn't tell. Then he put the hammer down on his cheaply made foot pedal and the front end of his tractor lifted up. This entire time I was steadily dragging him backward. The kids thought it was great fun. Before I turned to look at him, I got all the smiles out so I could pretend to be empathetic in his miserable defeat. The whole thing kind of felt like I was dragging a log that had a little fight in it. Ever since that storied weekend afternoon, the neighbors all have respect--and awe--for the mighty Wheel Horse. I've mentioned this in another thread, but since that day several Wheel Horses have been showing up in the neighborhood. Mostly 300 & 400 series. There is no denying what these awesome machines are capable of. And, every time I fire up the unmistakable-sounding Onan, someone pops their head out to take a look. Some of those one-upsmanship guys scramble their shiny new tractors at that moment. They were not around on that fabled day. I should hook two or three of them up to the 522xi and see what happens!

Do the math: pound for pound tractor + deck + driver = total weight engine HP per pound = ? All you had to do was stand on the pedals and lean forward... Get some rear chains, a deck and a cup holder - loser buys the beverages.... Also - That's nice vintage CC he's got there - good on both Y'All for being into old tractors.

Put chains on that bad boy and he will be riding on a TEDAC BUC !!!

heres the custom brush guard/bumper I made yesterday for my a-90 special.what do you think?

I had a B6000 with the 3 cylinder diesel and 4wd. It is the ONLY tractor I have ever regretted selling - and folks who know me, know that I've bought and sold more than my fair share over the years. It was a fantastic machine. Someone made me an obscene offer for it and I sold it. I still think I should have kept it.

I gave four of them a ride this month! They we're destroying my sisters garden and yard!

This little vagrant took up residency under my horse barn. So I fed him some apples and took him for a ride on the 875.

Yes, they do have an "O"-ring. They are called ORB fittings.....O Ring Boss fittings.

I agree as well and you should try that test. Here's my thoughts on seeing if you can feel it 'lock' in to the detents in all gears. The shifter has the ability to actually move the forks past the detents but it doesn't because the gears physically stop it. The shifter doesn't do a thing to keep the transmission in a particular gear, the detents do. By moving through the gears gently you will feel when the detent balls engage. If you feel them engage as you shift to first, the shifter got them where they belong. I also agree that the 1st/reverse fork looks suspect in the picture and it's the area the shifter contacts to put it in 1st gear.

For them really pesky sheds... I like to say...go big, or stay home.

Yep, i agree with @slammer302, the rubber mounts make for a really smooth single cylinder experience. I also like the separated clutch/brake just because I like the finer control when using it on hills or with a big load. It can be scary to have that dead band in there between brake release and clutch engagement. But I can understand your quest for simplicity, and (while I think WH was about the simplest tractor that you could buy for the tasks at hand) it shouldn't take much to implement your changes. Just some custom linkages and machine work for the engine mounts.

the rubber mounted engine can be a pain if the mounts are worn but if you replace the rubber mounts with new ones it makes for a sweet ride and lees hood shaking

I have read up on the eatons, and the reason they feel that way is the same reason you can push it without a tow valve. They have "soft start" acceleration valves that bleed off some of the pressure before fully engaging drive. (They also help the unit have a larger neutral range to limit creeping, very multi purpose valves) I have been trying to figure a way to disable this without making it feel super jerky or damaging the unit. I would be curious what it felt liie without them.

Bach-Ed, there's spring loaded detent balls that engage in grooves on the shifter rails when it's in gear. You can feel them when you shift into gear. Try going through each gear with the motor not running and see what each gear feels like.

Wow! did a good job with no chains or weights. Wheel horse power Dave

what caliber is that? I imagine they won't heal from those stings! I love my 17HMR, need more varmints in the field to pop at! 22.250 Remington 700 bull barrel with a 12x mounted on top! Glasses and floated with a very light trigger pull. Coyote - Hog buster. I lose sleep wondering with my lower caliber weapons (if they happen to make it back to thier dens) if I have done my job. No guess work with the 250! Just way to many of the destructive varmints this year. Big sis is forever greatful especially after her husband shot thier shed. When Sheds become pests, they require much bigger armament!

Thats a good little story. The mighty horse,,,,,,,,thanks for sharing. Glenn

Not necessarily. Early sunstrands used ATF (Dexron) later ones used 10w30 motor oil. I would stick with what ever is curently in there as they do not mix well and a complete flushing uses a lot of expensive fluid. ATF will be cherry koolaid red, motor oil tan.

I do not believe they had a manual lift eaton 1100. The first few black hoods that came out had Sundstrand hydros and then all later units where fitted with eatons. I do believe all the eaton 1100's had hydro lift. But for what ever reason, some of the early Sundstrand came through as optional. I had a C-125A with a Sundstrand that had manual lift, which currently resides at Bill Jenkins house if anyone wants to buy it. Also Bill had a c-125 with a Sundstrand with hydro lift. So I am taking it as optional. I sold mine because I never could justify having the hydro with manual lift.

what caliber is that? I imagine they won't heal from those stings! I love my 17HMR, need more varmints in the field to pop at! 22.250 Remington 700 bull barrel with a 12x mounted on top! Glasses and floated with a very light trigger pull. Coyote - Hog buster. I lose sleep wondering with my lower caliber weapons (if they happen to make it back to thier dens) if I have done my job. No guess work with the 250! Just way to many of the destructive varmints this year. Big sis is forever greatful especially after her husband shot thier shed.

I have to dispatch mine quietly, can't shoot a real gun, other than hunting season, and even then, shotgun only.

I hope that when she blows, you are not in the line of fire when some piece comes rocketing out in your direction at 100 MPH.

I just picked up this 1990 Wheel Horse 520-8 and was wondering if it came with the 5073 10 pin limited slip transmission. Also slipped in a picture of my 1969 GT-14.

I have been singing the praises of a Napa 1410 Hydro filter for a couple of years. I am not badmouthing OEM Toro, but not all of the members here have a Toro dealer nearby. Plus not all dealers (including mine) stock the Toro filter. It gives members another option and there will be no need to hesitate to buy a Napa (Wix) filter. My local Napa stocks the 1410 or can get it within hours if needed as opposed to over a week from the dealer. I cut open the Toro once. Wish I had pics.If I remember right the Toro had less pleats and a piece of tin (Like Fram) as opposed to the real spring in the Napa 1410. If another member removes a Toro filter maybe they can cut it open and post pics. If I ever run across another one I'll cut it open and post them here.

1. Kate Goelzhauser - tractorchick 2. Karl Lyon - Nylyon 3. Liz Lyon 4. Megan Lyon - Megan 5. Sean Lyon 6. Don Varos - varosd 7. Seth Forry - RedRider 8. Craig Alan - AMC Rules 9. Linda Alan - Mrs. Rules 10. Mike Chasse - Squonk 11. Van Bennett - Wheel-n-It 12. Jeb (Jeff's son) 13. Jeff - Hodge71 14. Jay - jay in nc 15. Bob - racinbob 16. Brandon DeBaere - brandon701 17. Darren Westlund - Darrenw85 18. Dave's son, (#30 Muz123) 19. Jake Kuhn 20. Brian Marion - buckrancher 21. Charlie - clintonnut 22. Steve Hilleshiem - Stevasaurus 23. Karen - kthack657 24. Chris Ulmer - 51 Chevy 25. Tom - stratostar250 26. Howard - 857 Horse 27. Dave Mehlberg 28. John - wallfish 29. Russ - Saltywright 30. Dave - Muz123 31. Jason - DTOM 32. David Eaton - 33. Jack - wishin4a416 34. Ken A. Smith - KC9KAS 35. Elroy Heselton 36. Bob Maynard - rmaynard 37. Ed Kennell - ekennell 38. James - jrblanke 39. Mike Hower - Mike'sHorseBarn 40. Eric Coughenour - Eric C 41. Curtis Coughenour 42. Jim Perkis - SPINJIM 43. Buzz 44. Cas - formariz 45. Warren - wwwlaw 46. Lane Ralph - laneranger 47. Mike Wall - 55rj35jr 48. Don Oliver - c-series Don 49. Rich - rwilson

Are XIs common there? Other XI attachments common? I have the same question. Any dozer blades or snowblowers? Decks? Ahh man! You're closer than I am! No fair! <grin> All I have is the deck mule drive for my Lxi. Really could use something but pretty scarce around here...

You can go to your local NAPA auto parts store and get a kit from them. Tell them what you have. i have bought two kits for the K series Kohlers from NAPA and they worked great1 Welcome to Redsquare!

That's how it starts just get it running then take it for a drive. Next thing you know you're looking for things to do with it, then things to do it with...

Assuming your needle valves and the seats in the body are still good, here's the kit for your Carb: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR-KIT-for-Kohler-K-Series-Engines-Carb-Repair-Rebuild-Overhaul-/261100698379?hash=item3ccad07b0b

Why would you not want that big lump shakin away, thats character!

I agree with Stevasaurus. Try to get it going without the shift handle. If it runs ok without popping out of gear, than you can rule out opening up the tranny. It looks like the ball on your shifter handle might have a bit of a flat on it...possibly causing the slip out issue you are experiencing. (My tranny problem was a worn shift fork back in the day) Good pictures, and they do help. It'd be worth moving the seat out of the way if needed to try this.

i know the arm on sum of the new fuel pumps can be different than the old ones maybe compare it to the old one and make sure its the same

as bmsgaffer said they will shake while digging. you might have a bad chain or sprocket inside the case these tillers or pretty simple machines ive had one apart a few times just a couple gears and a couple sprokets and a big ole chain

Thats pretty cool!

needs to be self powered at a crawl speed... and be able to steer it with the seat!

Thanks. This is probably one of the last Sundstrands that Wheel Horse used, so I'm guessing motor oil. I did check the level and condition of the fluid before I bought it, didn't pay attention to the color. Then again, maybe my mind didn't detect anything out of the ordinary, since I'm used to seeing oil in there with my two Eatons. The good news is that since I don't have a hydro lift, I should be able to drain virtually all of the old fluid. One other observation I have made is that the Sundstrand seems to be "tighter" or "more connected" to the motion lever. There is no lag in response. Both of my Eatons have a perceptible "soft start" feeling; they are very strong, but take a fraction of a second to go compared to the Sunny. It's almost like the Sundstrand feels directly linked and the Eaton has more of a smoother, softer, power steering type feel.

I agree. The problem seemed to be with the valve for the cylinder. It went down fast with gravity, but came up really slowly. He wanted too much for that tractor, and I was trying to find excuses in my mind for not overspending for a Kohler twin, even though the problem seemed correctable. I wouldn't mind having the lift, but that wasn't a deal breaker this time around. And, I got a really good deal on the C-125. The K301 will probably outlast the twin anyway.

If I were you, I would weld that lift flag back on, sell your XI tiller and buy the right one... You could have probably sold it for twice what you can find a classic tiller for (XI attachments are more rare). Now with a rewelded flag you may still get 1.5 times as much... But I understand as a machinist you can "make it work". The cross brace on my tiller is not flush with the outside of the frame, it sits offset "down" pretty far and it does not hit the hitch location when raised. You would have to get it up pretty far to get that to hit, but I havent tried.

Nate, no one wants to see you get injured if something happens. The younger generation needs to stay healthy to carry on the Wheel Horse tradition. There should be lots of members in your area. I hope someone near you steps up to help you get the K301 fixed right.

Watching you redo yours reminds me of when I redid mine. Your going deeper into it, I didnt have to split the trans. Keep up the fine work, I have to watch this one through to the end. Most folks luv these little 854s, I do. The end product will have you smiling ear to ear. Glenn

Last weekend I thought it was time to do another upgrade to the trusty old 312-8 I bought new in 1991. I've already upgraded the seat with a nice highback seat from NT, upgraded the rear wheels and tires with ones froom a 520 Hydro, installed cast iron wheel weights on the rear with a pair of weights from my Grandfathers 1950's Simplicity two wheeled walk behind tractor, upgraded the original front 6 inch wheel and tire set with 8 inchers and new tires with some shiney wheel covers, and JayInNC made a nice stainless steel muffler bling do dad to dress up the factory exhaust system. Next on the list was an engine upgrade, so last weekend I took on that project. One of the Horses in the herd is a 1993 314Hydro with 540 hours on the clock. I don't really use it much due to the fact I'm more of a gear drive Wheel Horse guy. My 312 had 550 hours on its clock so i thought since the 314 had 10 less hours at 540, and a 14hp engine (2hp more than the 12hp engine on the 312) the choice was easy, remove both Kohler Magnums, and replace the 12hp engine with the 14hp engine. The 14hp Kohlers are a little smoother running than their bigger 16hp brothers, yet have the extra working torque power over the smaller 12hp Magnums. The swap was very easy, kind of a no brainer actually. The only extra thing I had to do extra was swap pulleys on the crankshafts. The hydro pulley is a larger diameter than the gear drive pulley so the swap was made, and a new Toro Wheel Horse drive belt was installed on the smaller gear drive pulley from the 12hp engine that now rested on the 14hp crankshaft. So anyway thats it in a nutshell. I hope you enjoyed reading about the upgrades, and hopefully something I've done will appeal to someone here who will then do the same to their favorite tractor.

my son and I plan on being there fri morning bring a few horses. Never been here before looking forward to making some new friends

I wish I could get the damn mouse/vole eating my tomatoes! Grrr!!!!!

When I released him, he was last seen headed South at max speed...around 0.3MPH. If he doesn't stop or change course, He should be in Maryland in 3 days.

I sold an 8 x 10 enclosed aluminum trailer on Craigs list, one guy comes over to look at it and measures the width with a tape he brought - says the inside of the box isn't 8 ft wide - told him 8 ft was from outside wheel well to outside wheel well ....long story short he gets a real quick attitude and starts accusing me of trying to rip people off, false advertisement ....blah blah blah - I pointed out the manufactures paperwork, still hanging in the trailer , that this is what is classified as an 8 x 10 trailer - if it was 8 ft in the box it would be 10ft going up the road ....didn't matter he's still determined he's gonna throw a fit ......this guy had me nervous ....I politely told him I want you to leave ....RIGHT NOW ...surprisingly to me he did - threw his temper tantrum the whole way down the yard and out the D-way . I hate to say it and it's a shame, but if I sell anything else I think Mr Ruger is going to be real close by.

A good friend of mine runs a company with manufacturing in China and South Carolina. They make the paper elements for air and oil filters. Just the paper no metal at all. They're the primary vendor for most filter companies. They will build to whatever the customer specs. So in theory all these filters we're cutting apart probably have paper from the same plant! FYI all over the next 2 years all of their manufacturing will be done in SC. Bah BYE China!!!

You don't need anything but a battery, good coil, points, and spark plug to get ignition. Stator, regulator and all that are superfluous to having a spark. Be sure that the points are opening and closing on each revolution, and that the contacts are clean. Make sure you have a good condenser. The ignition needs 12 volts to the coil and the points make and break the circuit to create the high voltage at the tip of the plug. As long as the battery is good and you have a flow of 12 volt from it through the switch to the coil you should get spark. The other stuff mentioned is for charging.

make sure you take care of your kohler and keep IT and you happy happy. if you don't it will smile and you won't lol.