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I think you are right...how can you not look good with these little guys? They already called "dibs" on the back seat riding to the beach with grandpa and grandma next month.

Sometimes there is nothing more soothing than the putter of a Wheel Horse. Some people just don't understand.... IMG_5387.MOV

Getting to be that time of year again. Who's thinking about going to Pioneer Power this year? @joebob @prondzy @Shynon @wheelhorseman1000 @stevasaurus @ol550 @rydogg @Terry M @dclarke @Martin @Operator Show dates this year are August 28-30, at the usual Le Sueur Pioneer Power showgrounds. If there are any new comers this year, I've got some picture maps that have helped some other newbies find our little Wheel Horse gathering at this incredibly large show. I'm planning to be there all three days. Anyone interested in coming is welcome, they don't charge exhibitors at the gate. As I understand it there will again be an opportunity to drop a plow in the ground if you're so inclined. Also keep in mind there is a consignment auction on the grounds first thing Friday morning as well, so if you like auctions (and who doesn't ) make sure you're there plenty early to scope it out! If you have any questions about this show, please post them up. This will be our 8th year showing horses here at Le Sueur. Primitive camping is available on site, there is a charge for campers / camping trailers. Any questions about attending, please ask.

I noticed that my horses don't run properly unless the correct liquid is in the beverage holder.

Any shop that would say the BS your shop is telling you I would avoid.What do they think other engines are speced with,a measuring tape?If you can get the necessary tools and have any experiance with machines you could do a satifactory rebuild on what you have.Used engines and alternate replacements can be had for less than a rebuild.You pay your money and takes your choice.Luck,JAinVA

You might want to consider filling these ags for added traction. I prefer turfs and chains for pushing.

The 6 inch wheels were on there for the 37" deck. That deck would hit a tire if used with the 8" wheels, so they shrunk the wheels. I think they presumed not many people would want such a small deck on the higher horsepower machines, so they kept those equipped with 8" wheels.

Would you care to share your serial number info? I have some odds and ends like this quote:"Have seen 953 serials from 62-137 to 62-928 and 32508 to 42159 1054 serials from 42105 to 49725 1054A serials from 49065 to 101637"but I have no sheet listing serials or how they apply Years ago I started to record any serial numbers I came across in a Yahoo manuals Group. Each one went into a searchable Database Table about 8 different ways so the info could be sorted every way possible. It worked great but their new format allows a maximum of 1000 lines and this one was up to 5000 so it takes forever to retrieve the info if it comes up at all. I did keep the info in pdf files as a backup but they are about 500 pages long. After 2 years of this I finally found a way to get the serials for individual models and have been working at copying them to the Red Square files. If you do a search of our files using - 1964 serial numbers any that are completed will show up with a SN in the file name. If you see a sn it is just my way of recording that I have checked that model and have no serials for it yet. I have copied the serials just as I entered them in the Groups. Many serials now have 0's before the number so they have the correct number of digits for that particular year. Left them that way in case the info can be used again to take them to a new level. Of course these 0's were not on the tractor so searching for a serial as decaled won't likely come up on a search. One column in the Groups has all the serials recorded as a 9-digit serial. This was very useful as one could quickly scroll down the list to see what years a particular serial was used. Some years the serials continued into the new model year and others they started over. In 1962 they introduced the 62-xxxx serials for the tractors and A-xxxx for the attachments. The 62-xxxx's were used on the following model years until the decal supply was exhausted. Near the end even the A-xxxx's ended up being used on the tractors. The 1971-74 model numbers on the product used 6 digits. These serial number lists is where I realized the significance of the 6th digit. Subtract 5 from that 6th digit and you get the model year. Very seldom does the 6th digit show up but on the Attachment list the GT-14 tractor for 1973 is model xxxx-8. These were 1972 left over models and surprising how many have shown up. It is not a carved in stone record. Some serials are hard to read off the tractor or attachment and others may be a typo. We all make mistakes but have copy and pasted the info to keep them to a minimum. Garry

The problem is, skeptichorse, once you've been bitten by the Wheel Horse bug... You just want more of them! I started out with a really nice 520-H. It's the Cadillac of the classic 300/400/500 series. There's not much it can't do with its powerful 20HP opposed twin cylinder Onan (some cringe at the mention of that name, but mine is solid) and hydro drive. Then, I was lucky enough to have a 310-8 given to me. I thought that it probably couldn't hang with the 520-H, but surprisingly--that little 10HP Kohler Magnum paired with 8 gears can really hold its own. Especially when pulling. And recently I came across a 522xi and snatched it up. 22HP with power steering and even heavier construction than the 520-H was very enticing. I bought it just because I wanted to see what it could do. It is the epitome of WOW! The bottom line is that it doesn't matter which Wheel Horse you end up with. The one you're sitting on is better than just about anything else you could have bought brand new (especially for the price). They are amazing machines, and from smallest to largest they just get it done. And with THIS FORUM, you will never be at a loss for knowledge and advice. What brand new machine comes with hundreds of experienced owners that can help you with anything related to your tractor? My wife was really upset when I bought a 23-year-old 520-H instead of something new with a warranty. She has seen what I can do with it and now she gets it. The neighbors can't do half of what I can with their brand new big box tractors. One of them even brought their brand new Craftsman over for a friendly pulling contest (I'm sure our kids had something to do with it). He was shocked and embarrassed when his was permanently stuck in reverse no matter what he tried. Since that day, every time I fire up the mighty Onan, at least one of the neighbors is suddenly out on their newer machine, as if to show me up or something. Too funny. I wonder what they are thinking now with the 522xi. But interestingly enough, Since I first bought my 520-H over two years ago, several horses have appeared in the neighborhood--mostly the same 300/400/500 series, but my next door neighbor just got a 1970s B or C series (don't know which one yet) that he got after selling his eXmark. Apparently he has more work to do than just mow. Hopefully I can convert them all and have my own neighborhood WH club !

Okay, here's the update. I purchased a 2014 Tacoma today. Here she is.

Plow some big snow with little power. http:// Hang with the big boys. http:// Impress the judges. http:// Win some awards. http:// Spark creativity. http:// Bring good folks together. http:// Meet famous people. (Don't forget about Bob Hope...if you did your reading) http:// Keep a family well rooted together. http:// Edit----darn it!! spent a little extra time posting this, and the links don't work. Apparently Wheel Horses won't help you be computer literate!!

Great suggestions all about what a wheel horse can do, but nobody has yet mentioned the most important thing of all: Bring a bunch of folks from all over the world together and form lasting friendships. Good luck with your lumber jacking! steve

Another thing a wheel horse can do, that very few (if any), other tractors can do, is set there in the basement (or garage), all shined up, and silently, just look damned good.

Just joined the forum today, and may be kicked out, after this. Here goes. Until a couple weeks ago, I would have never even looked, at a Wheel Horse garden tractor. I was looking to replace my JD 212 with a JD 317 or 318. In the process of looking, for the right deal, the right deal found me. I stumbled upon a Toro Wheel Horse 518xi. Hours had just turned 160. Came with a soft cab that has a real glass front window, wiper, and beacon light. 48" mower deck, 42" single stage snow blower, weights and chains. I picked the entire package up for $1,650.00.. The price was definitely right, the attachments we exactly what I was looking for, and the soft cab was a bonus. So, this was more of a stumbling block I fell over and am glad I did. Photo is of the 518xi.

Heres the process of tearing down a hydro pump from a D. I will do my best to describe everything in detail so that anyone can handle it. I must say with Paul Frederis help we tore it down, cleaned and rebuilt it in 4 hours including tearing it down a second time because of MAJOR rust issues causing binding of the pistons. I will do this in chronological order as best as I can Step #1 Here is the pump before tear down. You need to remove the four 12 point bolts using a 3/8 12 point socket wrench in order to seperate the aluminum housing from the cast steel valve body STEP # 2 shows the bolts out and the pump housings seperated. Be ready to struggle slightly if your pump was never opened. It was necessary for us to put the aluminum part in a vice and hit the steel end with a dead blow hammer and brass punch to get it to sperate from the gasket/adhesive. You must rest the pump on its side or you will lose slippers and other items if you do it in the upright position. Upon opening it a large quantity of rust was found inside formed on the steel end suggesting water infiltration. Step #3 In this photo you can see the rusty liquid on the slippers and the general shape of them. They were scratched but the corners were square and not rounded over, which is very important Step #4In this pic Paul is trying to clean the rust off of the oil pump housing. As you can tell it was pretty rough. The 4 bolts here are 12 point also, you need to use a 5/16 12 point socket socket to remove these. this is another pic of the pump housing and the rust and bolts. Also pay attention to the orientation of the small pin location on the oil pump housing. Its on the botton of the pic and must be that way for reassembly. It is very important for reassembly that this faces the same way. Step #5 Here is the oil pump gear in the housing. You must mark this on the housing and impeller before you take it apart. Every lobe only fits its mating surface 1 way. If you screw it up the pump will bind and not pump oil to feed the cylinder, slippers and swash plate. The o-rings are the same set up as the manifold with a square backer ring and a regular o-ring on top to seal. Step #6 In this step you need to remove the charge valves. They are 5/8 standard socket. It is an O.R.B.( O Ring Boss). These were pretty tight but did come loose. Here are some close ups of the charge valve. We made a legal notebook map so we could be sure it all went back together well. one side has a spring and a ball, the other side has a small tapered shaft and spring. Later models of this pump had balls and springs in both sides. One thing to note is that occasionally you will find shims between the spring and ORB fitting. These were installed when the pumps didnt make enough pressure during testing. The shim increased tension on the spring and therefore raises the oil pressure just like it would in an oil pump for an engine. Step #7Next pics are a close up of the housing showing the accelerator valve removed. There are 2 of these. 1 on each side. They are the large straight head screwdriver tip recessed into the block. They are ORB also but damn were they tight. We needed to use an impact driver to break them loose. All thats inside is a ball and spring. Step #7Next pic is of the push valve. Remove it and check to be sure there are no gouges in the tapered area. If there are, oil will leak by and cause speed to slow and pump to overheat eventually during use. Step #8This is the inside of the aluminum housing. It shows the direction control where the swash plate sits. The can be removed if needed by removing the spring clip on the shaft where it comes through the outside of the housing on the flush side, not the long side that the direction linkage attaches. You then pull the shaft out and the swash plate resting surface will clunk into the bottom of the housing for you to pull out. The only reason to do this would be to replace a bad bearing. Step #9 Here is a close up of the swash plate during polishing. I started with 800 grit, moved to 1200 and then to the crocus cloth as the final step. DO NOT use water to lubricate the crocus cloth. it causes the adhesive to melt and the cloth to become junk. Use oil only for lube. This is a before of the swash plate showing severe rusting from the water that was inside this pump. this is after the three step polishing sequence. As you can see its a mirror now Step #10Here is the brass direction control valve plate showing scratches and oxidation. This also goes throught the 3 step process of polishing. This is the same peice after polishing Step #11 is the polishing of the slippers themselves. We made a diagram so that we could install them back in the bores they came from. After all that work we ended up with my original cylinder too rusty to be used. The slippers bound up and we had to take the pump all apart again and use a different cylinder after we got it all back together and it wouldnt budge. Step #12 is the installation of the slippers back into the cylinder. Be sure to install the slipper retainer BEFORE you install the slippers. They wont fit if you dont. Step #13 is the installation of the swash plate back into the direction control section. This pic shows it cleaned This pic is right before installation of the cylinder and slippers. Use lots of oil on both sides of the swash plate so theres no galling on start up. It will suck to do all this work and wipe it out with a dry start. Step #13 Assemble with the unit on its side. If you dont, you will lose slippers from the cylinder bore as you slide it down over the shaft and then have to start over. Once the cylinder is installed on the shaft, then flip the housing to the vertical position. Step #14 is to reinstall the charge valves, accelerator valves, springs and shims where they came from. A little grease on the springs wont hurt. It will stop them from moving and going caddywhompus when you install them in the bore above the ball at the bottom Step #15 Shows the proper orientation of the oil pump impeller in the housing. Take notice to our marks to be sure we had it right. You then reinstall the pump assembly onto the housing using the four 5/16 12 point cap screws you removed at disassembly. Again be sure the pin is at the bottom when assembling. Step #16 shows the new gasket prior to assembling both halves . I made this one the same way as the motor housing in my original resto post. Using a hammer to cut the material. Step #17 its all back together and ready to go back in my 18 Auto.

I am currently looking into pricing to get some pump couplers made up. my question is are any of you out there interested in some as well? I am hoping to get a larger order in to reduce the per unit cost and am willing to pass them on for my cost plus shipping. Please let me know.

I picked up a 312-8 yesterday for a song. It has 1200 hours on it and a really nice 48-inch deck with her. The only issues are it needs a bath, new front tires badly, ignigtion switch, and some grass to mow! I don't think $300 was a bad deal for it! One thing that gets me is the 6-inch tires on the front! Why?!?

So, as th title of the thread states... Has anyone completed such a project? I picked up a nice 312-8 yesterday for next to nothing that I was going to use for the engine and 48-inch deck for a 520H roller I've been kicking around the shop and it is way to nice to part out. So, I'm thinking of building a 312-H now. Any thoughts?

On vacation this week in Maine. Did a bit of fishing this morning and hooked this (purple rubber worm). About 15-16" long. I'm gonna hate going back to work! Mike......

The C-121 has a battery ignition. Before you start jumping through hoops, hook the battery up and all the other connections including safety switches if you didn't do so already. Make sure the connectors are clean and not corroded. And your battery needs to be fully charged to make sure that isn't the issue.

I have a beer and watch mine mow the grass - 315-8 has a cup ( beer ) holder put a few in a 5 gallon bucket on ice at the garage so I'm not tramping dirt though the wife's kitchen when it's time for a fresh one .....lol

I use ag tires and tri ribs on the front of my b-80. The ags are loaded and i still dont tear up the lawn.

Points will become oxidized. ..the nature of bare metal. CLEAN them with a points file or fine sandpaper.

Try cleaning and resetting you points gap.

I don't see any photos, guys.

Will be there all three days, working on a few things for the show, not sure if I will get done. Have to find the sod cutters again this year, also think I will have to find a baseball bat to keep up with Stevasaurus Steve a little correction golf will be on Thursday not Wednesday Can't wait

Different part number also. I recall many switches listed in an Onan parts list depending on what you wanted it to do. Did you order the NN10824? Garry

I'll be there all weekend...too far to drive for just one day. It looks like we are going to do the golf thingy on Thursday (the day before the show) this year...because of some commitments on the Monday. Let me know if you want to golf with us. As Tom said in the next thread...Golf on Thursday...not Wednesday. Thanks Tom.

I use a little white liquid teflon on mine for good sealing and the ability to get it out again. If it in less than perfect condition I would recommend replacing it as a stripped out plug that cannot be easily removed is a real pain. Cleat

Here is that log splitter attachment...that's Zeek talking with JDogCustoms.

Thanks Hunter, They do seem to be rather simple and after having a done a few Kohlers this should be a breeze. I was more worried about where to find parts if needed but it seems they are out there yet ...even oversize pistons/rings, amazing that parts are around for a 55+ year old engine! I did find all the specs as well, wonderful thing this information age we live in.... Keep an eye on my thread in mods... will be sure to take plenty of pics....

I'll be there.

i recently bought a moldboard plow and today was the first test

Nice work Andy!

That's a pristine looking 520-H. Congrats. Great haul! I had to put on my sunglasses when I looked at those hubcaps.

Its funny you mentioned spark creativity... I am already wondering what else I can do with it lol I will admit I was kind of embarrassed bringing my little horse into the woods, when my neighbors drive around 40 HP cubs and deere to do theirs with. and here I am on what looks like a riding mower. But when I went out with my boys to bring in a few more I just chuckled.. and started playing around which made the task more fun. I had another 20+ long log not too big in diameter... I put it in low 1 and once it was out of the woods let my 9 yr old jump on as I walked beside him (for saftey)...should have seen him smile from ear to ear he thought he was the MAN lol, and ofcourse my older boy thought it would be fun to ride on the log...so he sat down and the horse never flinched and he went to a sleigh ride. I plan on doing the seals QUICK...because now that I am using it I am noticing the other side is starting to weep. My deck parts should be in tomorrow and next order is for the seals. I have to wonder now what a good set of tires would be like too... almost scared of how much traction it would get lol Now I need a plow....

Well my production efforts drop off the cliff when the temperature needle hits 90 or above. I also had to deal with sale of the tiller today and you just have to take opportunity to show and tell and talk tractors....that's a lot of what the hobby is really about so between selling off redundant implement to make more space, general housekeeping and shoptalk, I was able to organize a bit. I almost spent time and effort sandblasting a body part that was unnecessary. Risk of having parts tractor, limited space and pace that I am going at. it was good to inventory as part of housekeeping. wish I had one of those shop AC units. But then I would need to insulate the garage. Yet another project to add to list:-) The obligatory pic .....

Basically When I got it the 8hp Briggs was extremely neglected, mower deck was pretty well rusted! I knew I didn't want to get rid of the machine just because of it. So with that in mind I pulled the tired 8 horse, removed the deck, and built it from what I pictured in my mind! The motor I put on it in place of the tired 8hp, was a flat head Briggs 12hp, I got bored with that lol. One day I came across lawn Mower racing that's when I decided I was going to build a racer out of it! I started doing research on good motors for racing one of the engines on the list was a model. 28 14.5 Ohv Briggs! On day my friend calls me up and says I've got another motor for the horse! When he got home from work that evening I went I looked at this engine! It was indeed a 14.5 horse Ohv! He said (my friend) I have no use for it, 40.00 and it's yours! Bam, I bought it, it had clean oil, the engine was super clean for a 1990 model, months later I built the engine! I'll I'm getting tired of typing now lol so I'll upload pics of the engine build! I build the tractor to have fun and simply recycle a cool piece of machinery!

You should be fine with a 42 as long as you have traction. Mike......

NICE, looks beautiful there! Water is CLEAR Just spent 4 weeks up there but working in Bethel around the White Mountains area. What's the deal with that place? Rent the house with a boat or... I see you didn't ruin your soft Palmolive hands

I put firestone tri-ribs on the front of the 520 that I use for the snowblower. Love them. Much better steering control in the snow, and not too harsh to use on the grass, unless it is REALLY wet. The Carslile Turf Masters on one of my other tractors are gentlest on the lawn, especially when wet, but the difference is small. The difference in snow and ice is a huge positive for the tri-ribs. On the back, the ags are best in loose dirt and not-too-sloppy mud, but are a little hard on grass, and do big damage if you spin them. On snow, ice, and hard pack, turf tires with 2-link v-bar chains work best for me. Ags do poorly on these surfaces. On normal or wet grass, I still like the Carlisle turf masters, inflated to 10-12 lbs. My most useful setup is turf masters in the rear, with aggressive chains and extra weights in the winter, and tri-ribs on the front.

OK not gonna lie that was kind of fun I took it into the woods and looked for the logs that my wheeler hated.... Two were 9 ft long and 1 FT in diameter. 1 cherry and 1 maple... so not light pine logs... the 4th log I dragged was 31 FEET long and 8 inches in diameter... not as heavy but impressive because of the length. Funniest moment was when I got almost all the way out and it wouldnt go anymore, I backed up and took off again and nothing... after the third time I noticed that the drag cable had taken down a sappling and got stuck on the base... and it was pulling the sappling out by the roots while still dragging the log. I have no doubt that it would of if it could have gotten more traction. I would like to say that it was a nice level straight run but who am I kidding it was more fun with uneven terrain and turns to make while dragging...some where almost 180 degrees. The main differences that I noticed between dragging with the horse vs the wheeler: I never once felt like I would tip over backwards... where on the wheeler I did more than once. It did scare me a few times when it felt like it was going to go over sideways due to uneven ground. But some quick booty shaking and it got some bite and took off again. Once it was moving I had to look back to know the logs where there... I was comfortable on the machine.. where on the wheeler you rode with with your face over the handle bars and your chest on the tank... Vs just sitting and riding like on the wheel horse. There was less calculating my route... I just turned when I had to and it went... on the wheeler you went in one direction until it stopped then went in another to change the angle of the log then start again ... It may sound crazy but I think the machine was more determined to get the job done than I was... and the more I worked it the more it seemed to wake up... I do have to remember to take the parking brake off.... after the second log, I unhooked it and took off and it felt like it was bogging.... thats when I noticed the parking brake was still on... ooops. Wonder what it would have done with good tires... I am still using the old ones that came on it that are hard as rocks even with no air in them. So to say it did what my cub never would have dreamed of doing is a true statement... was it safer and more comfortable and efficient than the wheeler hell yes.. Now what else can I do with it lol

Thanks for the kind words everyone! It will be on light work since my mowing is currently handled by my walk behind. It will trade off lawn sweeping with the 854 and it will have tiller, grader, and snow plow duties along with wood chipper (if i ever get that running). Should keep the hours low! Oh and it gets a cozy spot in the garage instead of the shed... probably with its own blanket!

Red Neck Cruise control one at fast idle one at mowing speed....

Two clothes pins work on my Electro 12. One clothes pin for fast idle two for mowing. A whole lot cheaper than a new cable. Cheap cruise control (I use the same setup on My M37's hand throttle to keep her at fast idle for warming up)

The 62-series of serial numbers started in 1962. 1962 tractor serial numbers recorded so far range from 62-01104 to 62-21125 Your 702 serial 62-04216 lands in the 4th of 16 batches of 702's recorded so far and that batch ranges from 62-03298 to 62-05608 (I have added a zero to the 4-digit numbers so the database can handle them) The 1962 attachments used an A-series serial and range from A-01387 to A-26964 The 1963 attachments used an A-series serial and range from A-27183 to A-55713 They still had 62-Series decals left so continued to use them in 1963 on the tractors. The 1st were on a 1st of 4 batches of 953's and range from 62-00137 to 62-00928 The next 1963 tractor serials range from 62-20610 to 62-25718 and guess they ran out of them before serial 26210 which is next. The highest recored so far is 47957 for a 1963 tractor. In 1964 there were still A-series decals left so they were used on both the tractor and attachments now. The 1964 serials recorded so far start at A-50086 and run to A-75181. Next 1964 serial is 03301 and runs to 48689. Next are the 1054's that range 48732 to 49725 in the 3rd batch of 3 and the last for 1964 Next is a 1965 1054A with serial 49065 Now more 1054A's ranging from 49533 to 50366 in the 1st of 2 batches. These last 3 lines show a discrepancy. It appears the 1054's and 1054A's were built back to back and few owners know which model they have. This is from a small sample of approx. 4500 serial numbers. The number of units they built is staggering. Some of the recorded numbers I have could have been read wrong, hard to read and always the chance of a typo even with me. I think the way it happened was once they had enough parts to build x number of a model of tractor they issued a serial number for each in that batch. That batch then went into production. Later on they included the build date with the serial numbers in the batch. That's when you start to see the build dates in progressive order but the batches of serials are not progressive. They are progressive within the batch. Perhaps the serials were assigned to a batch before all the parts were available and when they did come in the build date was added. Garry

Guess I'll weigh in here. How are we determining "toughness"...pulling power?, brute strength?, long term survivability? Over the years I've done a lot of swapping, selling...general Horse trading & have had all the above models in my stable at one time or another. Here's my thoughts on some of them. D's...the hydro D's are built like tanks. I mean literally they are big, square, & take a lot of room to maneuver. There known for sloppy steering, weak hydro's (more related to wear & tear than design), complicated DCL linkages. early D's had problems with the bull gears spitting out the bolts & breaking the transaxle cases open. For a hydro they have plenty of yanking ability, but a hydro will never be as efficient as a gear drive. They are a tough Horse...but not the toughest. D250...nice machines (I like mine a lot!), probably Wheel Horse's only true entry to the "CUT" market. Like any Horse they have there share of issues, parts availability, weak steering & transaxle problems. Built with a Renault engine, Italian steering gearbox, German transaxle, cuts grass with a John Deere deck, assembled by Gutbrod in Germany, imported to the states with Wheel Horse stickers...is it really a Horse or a stepchild at best? Plenty of power & a lot of neat features, but again I don't think it's the toughest Horse. GT14's...I've had a few & they are "tough", but no more so than any other big block hydro Horse. 520's...I'm not a 520 fan. I had one great one with a 48" deck that would mow grass or plow snow like crazy. Then I've had three others that were less than great, weak frames (I suspect from heavy use carrying a 60" deck causing them to crack at the mid point), blOnan issues, wiring problems, finicky carbs & thirsty, thirsty, thirsty! I think the 20HP Onan & 60" deck were to much for the Wheel Horse chassis... They are a sweet sounding machine & have a lot going for them...I don't think very "tuff" though. 953/1054's....round hoods on steroids. Pretty tough, early models had some issues with the spider gears going "bang". Not all that "tough" either. IMOP...a C series with a big block Kohler, 8 speed, 8 pinion trans is the toughest tractor ever built by Wheel Horse. They are simple to work on, plenty of pulling power, survive & keep going. I know of a C120 a barn collapsed on & sat under that mess for years, when it was dug out eventually it took very little to get it running again. (that's tough!) They may not out pull a D, GT14, 520...or even a 953/1054, but when is the last time you seen one of those in front of a sled? Opinions are free & vary, those are just my thoughts on what Wheel Horse's "toughest" model could be. To much caffeine tonight.

C-160 8 speed in mint condition. I like the simplicity of the B and C series. They have plenty of power for my use!

Those are some nice looking tractors lynn! That 702 looks more like a 704 to me though. The 702 had the aluminum gas tank, and it had electric start. Jake