Leaderboard

I stopped over SteveBo's and borrowed one of his 702s to see how it would look with the loader in position. I think it is to big for it. I then rolled out my C-160 and put the loader in position on that. It looks to me like that's the perfect combination. I think I'll build a subframe like the Kwik-Way or ARK loaders used. This way I won't have to modify the C-160 at all.

I have been using that 704 that we had on the trailer for sale ever since the Mentone Swap Meet! When I saw these pictures again today I said to myself what was I thinking !

I bought a work horse brand new in August 1984 still have it. Although it doesn't have an hour meter on it I know it has thousands of hours on it. That Briggs has never let me down. I mowed commercially with it for almost ten years,tilled gardens,plowed driveways,etc. She is still going strong!

That's a great deal at that price! Run don't walk! Buy it and get it home before someone else does seeing as you showed the telephone number on his for sale tag. The 3 point parts alone are worth $350 to $400. The deck is probably worth $200 to $400 depending on true condition. Sheet metal looks real straight and don't see rust. I would be all over it like a Hobo on a ham sandwich! Just my $.02. If you can get it any cheaper then better yet.

Picked up a Work Horse last year, 16 hp 2-cylinder Briggs, runs fine. I've used the Work Horse for snow (48" blade), mowing (48" SD deck), pulling a 17 cu ft loaded cart. No problems what-so-ever. Not a Briggs fan, love Kohlers (older models) and my 520-8 Onan. I could be wrong 'cause this Briggs puts out! The lift / height adjust was not on Work Horses. Via eBay, I added the height adjust parts, easy enough to install. Don't care for the all gray Horse so, painted the right and left belt guard sheet metal Rustoleum Regal Red. I've used a lot of Rustoleum Regal Red over the years.

It's been pretty wet in northeast Ohio this summer. These guys haven't had much time in the lawn. Great day to give them some fresh air.

I'm a guy who would want it! But I can't find the add anywhere on Pennsylvania's Craiglists! I checked Lehigh Valley, Scranton, Poconos, all of them. Nothing! I wonder if it is a classified add in a newspaper!

The picture on my screen is pretty close to accurate. it is not white, but it is not GREY either...it is kind of an "Egg Shell"...that is...no brown (which would give it an almond hint).

You guys are awesome. Thank you for all the ideas. Got that monster up and running. It was a combination of 2 things. PTO switch dirty and not working correctly. And, part major dork on my part. Put too much seafoam in not enough gas. . I will take my lumps for that any day. When it makes fixing that easy in the end.

So how do we distinguish between the 1958 and 1959 RJs? I highly doubt you will ever see an ORIGINAL sticker on a tractor that reads RJ-59 but there has been some distinguishing modifications that can help with an educated guess. A solid seat pan was used on tractors in 1960 and some RJs which seem to be completely original also had a solid seat pan which could indicate a 1959 Some will have a height selector for the lift arm which was used on the 1960 tractors. Transmission casting code could also indicate 1959 Then there are early 1958 RJs too. Round rear wheel hubs with only 3 holes which came from the Walk Aways. Leather shifter boot RJ-35 style front rims Rear hitch had separate welded flat pieces vs. the newer style one piece which was bent into shape Some of the foot pedal and lift arm pieces looked more crude the way they were cut and welded. The seat pan was a little bit deeper

Mine was the 11hp. When I bought it new I didn't get any attachments with it. I had an extra 48" deck to put on it. I also used the snow blade on it with the blower on a 16hp. I didn't think the motor would hold up and I just figured I'd put a Kohler on it when it blew but that thing just kept going. Even a total submersion in a pond didn't phase it.

At least through 62 they referred to Suburbans. Note in the 62 brochure they had "Three New Suburban Tractors". The numbering system back then was as you mentioned with exceptions through the years. The 701 was electric start. Typically a 5 as the second digit indicated electric while a 0 was recoil. Of course the 701 was the first with the engine mounted at the front of the frame and used a double starter/gen pulley.

Great job! Seems a lot of us are doing rust repair

Yup, what Don said. The mid 80's were gray but the earlier ones were red. Apparently they were intended to compete better price wise with the cheapies of the time. Along with no dial-a-height and the Briggs the 8 speeds had the 4 pinion/1" axles. Back in the mid 80's I walked in to a dealer in Elkhart and saw a GT1100 on display. The thing was priced so right that it came home with me.

The "Work Horse" is, as stated, Briggs powered. Every bit of a tractor as a Wheel Horse. The first Wheel Horse I owned was a GT-1142, 11hp Briggs engine that was up to anything I could throw at it...tough as nails. I've had several since then and wouldn't hesitate to have another. Usually you can find them lower priced because of the Briggs engine but don't be shy, you won't regret having one...all Wheel Horse tachamatic implements interchange.

Wheel Horse lore has it that that the Work Horse line was a more affordable line for the consumer. No Kohlers or Onans for engines, only Briggs. otherwise, all the other parts were the same. Curious that while the Black hoods style were being sold, the Work Horses GT's hood/dash and metal fender pan were the future style until the end.

Hi Mike, There is no drop in and go engine other than the Onan P216, P218 and P220's that were designed to fit the Onan Powered tractors. Early 416's were powered by a Kohler single cyl 16 HP motor but you would need to rewire the tractor to make it work. There are 10, 12 and 14 horse Kohlers that would bolt right on that tractor of yours Any Kohler K series, KT series and Kohler Magnum will work that have been in Wheelhorse tractors but you need to rewire the harness that is currently on your tractor. It is specific to the Onan engine that is on it. If you can find a donor Wheelhorse tractor with a Kohler engine that has a 15 amp charging circuit on it, it wouldn't be too difficult but you just can't drop another motor in it and hook it up to your existing harness. The crankshaft of another engine must be at least 2.7 inches in length. It must have a diameter of inch and an eighth and have a quarter inch keyway or you can't use your Wheelhorse PTO or the stock drive pulley. There are many Kohler engines that use a little 3 amp charging circuit where as your Onan has a 15 amp charging circuit. You would need the muffler/bracket and all the tins, (shrouds), with another engine. You could conceivably use your existing throttle and choke controls but again, depending on the engine, yours may be too long or too short to work properly with another engine. I'm sure swaps have been done by some members on here from their Onan to a Kohler or perhaps another brand. Small Engine Warehouse and Small Engines for less have new drop in engines for the 500 series Wheelhorse and I'm sure it would work with little effort on a 416 Onan tractor but you'll be paying out 1800 plus dollars for a new engine. I saw your earlier post and I don't know how much money you have to put into this tractor but if your unsure what to do yourself, find a small engine guy/shop that has a reputable history close to you and ask him/her to look at the tractor and especially the carburetor. There is also a crankcase breather element under the carb assembly that will need cleaned out. You may have bad valve seals and even a hammered valve seat in that engine but for a little money, a good shop can look at it and tell you pretty quickly if it's a carb issue and filthy crankcase breather assembly issue or if there is an internal problem. The glowing muffler is a lean mixture of fuel. That muffler isn't glowing because of too much fuel. Also check your oil level and make sure it isn't over filled and also make sure it doesn't have a gasoline smell to it. On the Onan's, you pull the stick out and whip it off and put it back in all the way including turning it snug then pull it out and read the stick. Some folks don't screw it in and overfill the crankcase. I hope this long-winded post helps some!

Truly not much will drain out. I'm scared to death of contaminating my hydro so I wouldn't reuse any fluid. You won't lose much. I had a hard time getting my seals out. Bought a seal puller and that helped. A couple of other things to think about. If your hubs have been slipping the keyway will have a little lip on the edge. You will need to file that down to get it back in plane with the rest if the axle and polish the axle with some emery cloth. I would do that first. I cleaned mine with brake cleaner when I was done. Several people recommended putting tape around the axle over the keyway before sliding the new seal into place. That burr on the keyway can damage the new seal. I used several PVC connections in series to place over the bearing and tapped in them to seat the new seal. Even when you just put the seal on it seals the axle and doesn't leak. Take the tape off Then I cleaned the axle with brake cleaner again and also ran the new key through the slot in the hub and cleaned the inside of the hub with emery cloth and brake cleaner very well before trying to re install. If the key won't move through the slot in the hub before you mount it, it sure as hell won't slide in the slot when you do try to mount it Good luck. This is very doable. Another thing. The set screw(s) should be cupped on the end that engages the key. If it isn't its holding power is diminished

Nics Lawn Ranger has always been able to hold its own. Probably my favorite Wheel Horse of all time...

Its not necessarily whats in my mirror but more what the mirror itself is in.... Got me a new Horse Hauler....The YJ is gone and has been replaced by a JK Unlimited Rubicon... Good enough for towing 3500 pounds of Horses...I can't wait to pull with it...Plus with the back seats folded down it is big enough to sleep 2.. Mobile camper too!!

Everybody's brother is different....I would loan a tractor to my brother (or father) without a second thought, but I know they wouldn't abuse it. How about loaning him a machine and then "donating" a Saturday to get the motor swap done in the New Holland. You'll get your Wheel Horse back much quicker that way and get some quality time with your brother and father. Mike.............

Hey guys, Tomorrow I am going over to a friends place to help him with his new wheel horse. He has a 314H with the Eaton 1100. We are planning to change the oil in the trans and put on a new WH trans filter. Having not changed the trans oil in an Eaton 1100 before, just wondered if there were any tips? I vaguely remember someone mentioning that a bolt can be loosened in the case to increase the speed that the old oil drains out?

Sorry to hear about the 520! Sounds like the damage could be localized to the deck, may need some bearings or spindle parts. Hopefully the deck shell isnt tweaked!

Again, thats looking good there Mike! I see you have invested your time wisely today

I did a "Custom " White Hood a couple of years ago.

I have a wheel horse b-80 that has a front deck attachment on it. i know nothing about these and i would like to sell the whole tractor. i was wondering how much its worth and if anyone has ever seen this before because i sure haven't. if you have any info on this please share it with me. thanks

I paid about $90 for my front mower mount. Luckily when i bought the carrier it came with everything. I agree with @bmsgaffer about the price ranges.

Good info on the RJ's and Suburbans. To add a little to that the transmissions were basically the same but different. The RJ58/59 used a 5003 and the Suburbans used a 5010. The difference was the angle of the mounting tab for the brake band. A 'geometry' thing since the idlers worked in opposide directions. The RJ's pushed the back of the drive belt to tension and the Suburbans lifted the inside. Also the 551 had the first 2 piece transmission case (5007). Here's another copied post from a while back: 1955/1956 --Both years used single-piece channel frames, and a belt-drive system with "POND" stamped on the rear axle. RJ-25 came with a Briggs Model 8 (?)[2.5hp], while RJ-35s came with a Kohler K-90 [4hp], or Clinton B-1200 [3.6hp]. Both years used a simple grill, with no name or extra designs added. 1957 --Nearly identical to the previous two years, but without the option of the Briggs engine and the Wheel Horse name was added to the grill. 1958/1959 --RJ-58 and RJ-59 used a "new" 3-piece uni-drive transaxle [Model 5003], as well as a "new" welded angle-iron frame. The Clinton model engine changed to the model B-1290 --which was still a 3.6hp engine. (All to this point use a straight, iron front axle and carry the RJ designation.) 1960 --Model 400 and 550 introduced, using the same frame as the '58/'59 tractors and using a cast-iron "swept" axle. The tractors also used a similar trans, the model 5010. A Kohler K-91 [4hp] or Tech/Lauson(?) Model H55B-1170 [5.5hp] was available. More designs were added to the hood and grill in this year. 1961 --The model 401 was virtually the same as the '60 400 --only a model-year newer. The throttle was changed to a push-pull style knob. The 551, on the other hand got a trans upgrade, to the "new" 2-piece unidrive transaxle and was available with a Tech/Lauson(?) Model H55D-2113 [5.5HP] --an electric start engine.

.Buy it

Johnny Bucket makes an electric actuator sleeve hitch that works independent of the rockshaft. I'm not sure if it could be adapted to a classic Wheel Horse due to the rear chassis configuration, but I did put one on my 523Dxi. I use my single stage snowthrower on this tractor and a scraper blade for up by garage doors. My 520xi has the blade with a UHMW edge. At some point my intention is to wire this tractor and get the frame portion from JB so that I can use this tractor as well with the sleeve hitch. You might want to consider this for your new 522xi.

Check out the engine. Ask if you can do a compression test on the engine.

Hello and I am pretty sure the 1533 bearing is the one that is no longer available. Maybe one of our transmission experts will chime in to give you more info on this bearing. Good luck !!

1) With the cutting blades off, set ALL THREEE spindles into equal-height cylinders of 6" long or so. I used three COFFEE CANS. 1a) cement blocks may work too....not sure. As long as the spindle fits into the hole of the block...good to go. 2) Remove top pulley NUT and grease zerk. 3) Use a BRASS DRIFT of some sort (double-faced peen hammer) as a striking surface, hold the brass hammer on top of the spindle shaft. 4) With all the force you can muster, with ONE VIOLENTL SWING, smack that BRASS PEEN with BIG HEAVY STEEL HAMMER. 4a)...don't be bashful....hit it HARD. 5) This will drive the spindle shaft down thru the pulley and housing....landing in the coffee can.

Kelsey, I'm glad you asked because I never wanted to, for fear of asking a totally obvious question - even though it wasn't obvious to me either. The first time I noticed that on my 310 I thought it was the most half-azzed thing on earth. Now we both have the answer. Lol. Thanks!

If you go to http://www.partstree.com/parts/ and do a search for the 105875 axle it will come up on three lines for Lawn Boy, Toro and Toro Commercial. Click on the "More Details" for Toro and a short list of models that use that part will come up. I just copied the 105875 part number from an earlier post. I did not double check the part number to the ipl I linked. I don't think today's dealers would have any idea how to determine the axle lengths unless they were an older established dealer. Garry

I'm not sure its rare. Rare rarely matters if its not a tractor that is desirable and value is always a reflection of desirability.. Most models were only made for one year... With that said an 800 Special is a pretty neat little tractor. I'm pretty sure they had a Briggs motor and maybe electric pto clutch? Most guys here don't go nuts for Briggs powered Wheel Horse's...

I restore the panels for my restorations and have done a few for members of RS, and have written a rather easy to follow procedure for doing them yourself. Article and examples below. Even if you found an old nasty, but unbroken one, you could get them to look like the examples below by following the process in the article. ARTICLE http://www.mywheelhorse.com/modules.php?name=docs2&do=show_doc&id=1 LATEST DASH RESTORATION EXAMPLE

Thanks sparky...way to ruin a good thread. love you man...

Well, I just saw a lady mowing on it while driving by. I'm not even sure what house it was, as I was looking at the tractor. I'll keep an eye out every time I drive by, and if I ever see it again, I'll stop. Hopefully, she doesn't mace me. or worse.

Update on the 520H and 42" SD deck. The gage wheels were still rubbing against rear tires. I made some brackets and welded them on. It works fine now.

Welcome to the 5xi Club! You won't be disappointed. And contrary to the myth that parts are more expensive by members that are not owners -they are not! In five years of ownership (besides maintenance items of oil filters and sparkplugs) of my 518xi, I have had to replace a seat switch for $35.00. The other two have had no repair items in 3 and 1 years respecitively. True, attachments are different but it sounds as if you are set. We also have two vendors on RS that now makes accessories. They are gaining popularity as they age and members consider ownership.

Well, I had an unexpected day off... So I hitched up a trailer and went for a ride to see the 522xi. It's now the newest horse (literally and figuratively) in the stable. Not sure the exact number of hours because the meter stopped. But, I saw his property and know when it was purchased, and his estimate of 750-800 hours seems likely. Functionally, it's near perfect and has been very well maintained. There are two issues: the seat is shot, and the paint is pretty scratched/rubbed/worn. It is in great shape otherwise. The PO fashioned an awesome rear suitcase weight complete with a ball hitch, and it still maintains clearance to use the drawbar hitch beneath. The 2-stage 44-inch snowthrower looks brand new. That thing is three times the size of the single stage on my 520-H... It's a real monster. The PO is including a great offset pull-behind mower deck that he made from a 48" deck from a 520-H powered by a 16 HP Kohler. Nice. He had very good maintenance records which also support his claim for hours. It was always serviced at a reputable Wheel Horse dealer, and the service records are recorded (and signed/dated) by the dealer in his manual. And I thought I was anal about certain things. I am extremely impressed with the 522xi. It is what Wheel Horse should have offered 10-20 years earlier. Some of the systems are more complicated, but still seem to be well engineered. Most areas are easier to access than the 520-H and the engineers actually thought and planned for how to service the machine. The service manual is very good and seems to cover most anything that I could encounter. As long as there are parts available when the time comes, this beast should last another decade or two. The 20 HP Onan in the 520-H seems a bit "torquier" to me, but the 22 HP Kohler V-Twin in the 522xi is WAY smoother running, quieter, and more fuel efficient (not hard to do compared the the Onan). I really like the horizontal positioning of the Kohler and love the driveshaft/front PTO configuration. The intake is a vastly superior design as well. For those of you not familiar, it is completely shrouded with screens on 3 sides--making it virtually impossible for any debris to make it to the flywheel screen (cue the angelic chorus). That's the one thing I really don't like about the super-sucking Onan on the 520-H... constantly clearing debris off the intake. The 2-speed Eaton 11 in the 522xi is also awesome with the HI and LO range, and seems smoother and more refined than the Eaton 11 found in the 520-H. I'm not sure if the driveshaft vs. belt drive has something to do with this. I wont really know which horse is truly stronger until I get some time behind the wheel of the 522xi. My instinct is that the 522xi will prove itself to be the stronger of the two, but it is also almost twice the weight and the operator is more disconnected from the equipment with power steering and shaft drive, smart turn, etc. This may be the reason that I don't initially FEEL the power like on the 520-H, even though there is a lot of it. But there is no question that the 522xi is HEAVY DUTY and refined, with all the modern features and comforts. It's the first WH I have driven that makes the 520-H appear to be fragile. I am really looking forward to owning this thing. To me, this model seems like the pinnacle of Wheel Horse. I think it's that good. I always felt the 520-H was great and powerful. This 522xi is just magical. It's like Wheel Horse finally figured it all out... and nailed it. (I don't wish to offend with this statement... everything WH did is great, that's why I have several... and I understand that some of you may have the opinion that a shaft drive WH is not a true WH) Thanks for letting me share the adventure. I will add some pics when I get a chance.

I was planning on ordering the rebuild kit on Ebay the more expensive on that comes with the valves as well. I figure if I'm rebuilding it anyways I might as well go all out and eliminate future issues at least for a while. What is the best way to measure the cylinder so I can order the right size piston? What tools do I need to do the rebuild? My dad said there were some special tools I would need to change the valves. What are they if that's true? Thanks in advance, Nate

I understand they actually had to tell a little old lady that her non-Wheel Horse she was riding was not allowed at this year's show. At an "All Wheel Horse" show, that's the way it should be.

Probably not so much draining as filling - removing the dip stick should facilitate getting air for draining, but filling can be a pain. Bobs method of removing one of those bolts works great, but if for some reason its difficult to get to then scrounge around and find a small piece of tubing 10-12" long and feed it down the fill tube and put your funnel in to hold it in place. This allows air to get into the case and allows the fluid to flow with out 'burping' constantly.

I removed the plug in the bottom, and removed one of the two bolts that hold the fender pan/fuel tank bracket to the top of the transaxle.

Thanks for posting pictures guys! We had a great turn out for as bad as the weather was. I was side tracked and never took any pictures since I was taking care of the food stuff as well. My food vender dropped out on me about three or so weeks ago and I got my first experience on how much food to buy for get togethers like this. The larger area was a success. We got all the parts in one area and all the shoppers parked in another area. We had about 38 rigs come in to sell parts and a lot of other brands besides just WH as it usually is. I want to thank Scott Mehlberg, Mike Biser, Chuck McColley and of corse my partner Ken Stephens for all the help and advise along the way. The fall Mentone Garden Tractor Show & Swap meet is September 11th and 12th... Mark it on your calendars! And last but not least a big thanks to RedSquare for sponsoring the Mentone spring swap meet! Thanks, Gene Simpson

Everything is back to perfect. I should have taken a picture but did not. The end of the shift rod and ball were perfect. No chunks missing or nothing deformed. Here is a picture of my brother test drive. BIG THANKS FELLAS! A good lesson learned. Glenn

This will work for atleast Suburban Models and whatever else has same front spindles and 8'' wheels. Here is what I have come up with to convert your factory rusted out front wheels to a 4on4 Bolt hub 4 lug 8" (trailer) wheel. X2 4x4 Wheel hub (From BMI Karts & Supplies) #260056 $20.95ea X4 Flanged Wheel Bearing 3/4x1 3/8 (Frome BMI Karts & Supplies) #300175 $3.00ea X2 8''x4'' {4 Bolt Rim} (From Surplus Center) ~Lincoln, Ne.~ #1-3860 $12.95ea X4 Shaft Collar 3/4 Bore 1 1/4 O.D. 9/16 Width. (Frome Surplus Center) #1-2766-75 $1.55ea Other than tires that you probably already have, This would cost about $86.00. Might seem like alot but I feel its worth it if you dont think your GT has to be as close to new as a Knats @ $ $. If you have any questions, Reply to thread or send me a message. Thx Any 8''x4" wide 4on4 trailer wheel will work..