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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/14/2015 in all areas
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5 pointsWell it's been a while SINCE The Squonk has posted anything much about the Skonkfest 1267. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/52230-ist-annual-sqonkfest/ After arriving back here to Wheel Horse Plaza from The big show, I was armed with a few needed goodies. Skonk is a cantankerous old dude and was loud and rough around the edges like an old sailor at a SpongeBob film festival so some upgradin was needed. I put skinny ag's on by the way to fit Skonk through a door into my rear shop. Plus I added fine 7/16 bolts and lug nuts for easier tire changes. First big issue was how loud he was. Plowin snow at work with the K 301 echoing off the brick and glass was rather obnoxious. So the First order of business was a different exhaust. It started out with a pancake unit, I got a Gravely style muffler from Napa. I was a bit disappointed. These Napa units used to be a lot heavier construction but now they are light and flimsy like every other mower supplier has. I added a stainless stack from a bathroom handicap rail. Still too loud I had my welder friend billy Bob add a baffle into the stack. Much quieter and with some carb tinkering, quieter yet. Next order of business was adding a mid tach-a-matic so I can use my grader blade Hood hit the steering wheel when opened so the steering shaft was lengthened. Next was the seat. The seat on it looked good but wasn't a WH seat and I hate seats sittin right on the fender pan. Plus it was mounted with wood. So off to TSC on Father's day! Next was the battery box. The L & G battery was bouncing all over.. A block of wood was used to take up space in the battery box. The large box was also hitting the steering gear Used a smaller box. Wil get a better one someday. While I was in there, added a fuse holder to the always hot lighter/light circuit Found a neato front Tach-a-matic adapter for the early tractors at the show so I had to put it on. Now if I put the PTO back on I can run a deck blower or hook up my Generator! As you can see, the hood hinge holes were wallowed out and the shaft was shot along with the hood holes Billy Bob and the welder to the rescue What good are all these changes with out doing the lights? Added new reflectors and LED's from Wally World Gotta bee seen at night plowin so Napa supplied the rear LED tail Multi hitch capability Finally driving it It. With the quieter exhaust You could hear Skonk rattle like that sailor, So back to Billy where he reapaired a missing belt guard mount Don't know what the future will hold for Skonk. Right now it's going to be my primary mode of transport at the Steam Pageant. Still on the fence about a restore. There is about 50 lbs. of Industrial red/ Pink on this tractor. Like it got dropped into a vat. Maybe on it's 50th birthday I 'll do it up for the big show in 17
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4 pointsPicked up my first 3 seris this weekend, 310-8, runs great and came with a peco vac. Got this from the original owner, had all the manuals also came with a snow blade and a mid grader blade and a set of brand new bags for the vac.
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4 pointsFinally finished the 417. The seat came back from the upholstery shop late last week. (50 bucks and he did a really nice job on it)! Finished the rims in Rustoleum Metallic. Had to use the old tires though and I found I have two different tires up front and surprisingly, two different rims on it. I need all four tires on it and will wait a while to do it. I added pliable cups to the spindle tops and cut out the area where the cotter pin moves. This will help keep them clean. The governor still revs it up some at idle mid and full throttle so I have to delve into it next. (Not certain what that is all about). I think the PO has a NAPA belt on it and it grabs on the clutch release. It's just a hair too short. It turned out nice but now I have to put it in service! All I do is mow with the rain and temps we have had and the two I alternate with need a little break. (Doing three big lawns).
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4 pointsPurchased from a Red Square member a few months ago then hauled all the way from the big show by another Red Square member this 1045 serial #21858 is now making it's home in Minnesota. She looks tough but will get the full treatment, new heart is already awaiting to bring this one back to life.
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3 pointsFound this in Groveland Fla. got it for $180.00 no motor...so for now I will run the 6.5hp predator from harbor freight for $120.00 till I find the suitable replacement more to stock... 1965 L-105 with Ag tires brand new. It looks pretty small next to the C-81 After mounting the motor on at my shop my daughter couldnt wait long enough for me to get it off the truck before she wanted to jump on and take it for a ride... My daughter mowing her Grandmothers lawn on the 79 c-81
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3 pointsSteve it may be a 753 front axle is a 1963 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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3 pointsI thought it look really cool with The Duke's blower sittin in front of it!
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2 pointsMeasurements are good too! Have welder, porta band, and lathe, ill make something, lmao
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2 pointsBert thank you in advance for doing this. Theres a lot of wh around here, not like the mid west, but lots around us. Im a cub guy myself but own one horse. I work with a couple of guys that horse guys. Ill be loking for some pieces to put a tiller on a b80. I have the tiller, need the rest of the brackets. Also Ill ne looking for a steering wheel for my 61 nutroaster. Most of all just meeting other tractor wacos is alot of fun! this was one of 3 fields we did this spring.
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2 pointsMike, you have been a very busy boy.
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2 pointsPlow day!?!?!?!? I like Plow days
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2 pointsSounds good and I will. Drag as many friends as you can Ive been wanting to go to a plow day for awhile now, this could be a good chance to get the word out.
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2 pointsI'm hoping for some "senior moments" from you during football season. Oh I checked at work today Steve, Your room will be ready Monday!
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2 pointsNo problem Richard...I really am having more senior moments then I like...it is going with the territory lately. I always have liked trying to figure out what horse someone has...I am probably about 3 wins and 257 losses. I'm looking for that hiding under the chair emoticon and I can't even find that. Yes, there certainly is some tricks to this system...it is not Corvettes. I just learned last week that they used up Clintons on the early 400 suburbans. If you kept track of all the differences between fenders, axles, welded towers, steering wheels, stamped frames, 2 piece gas tanks, foot rests, throttle cables, tool boxes and seats...you would have a 1000 post-it notes and still be wrong...maybe. Here is the deal...all together we are a good team...and right / wrong or close...I know I always learn something...the problem is trying to retain it. BTW...that is an interesting attachment for the rear end of that snow blade...looks like it bolts right on to the rear axle...I think it is home made. I am probably wrong about that not being factory also, but I have not seen anything like that yet.
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2 pointsThat really does look nice! Might be time for a forward swept with some tri ribs up front and ags out back for my C-165...
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2 pointsWell it has been a little while since I last posted any pictures of my progress on my C165. Since my last photo update I've pretty much completed my refresh with the exception of the hood. Right now she is wearing a hood from a C125. So a rundown of everything I have done besides paint: 1) Rebuilt the engine, new Kohler rod, stator, and voltage regulator (all not cheap) 2) New carburetor 3) NOS PTO 4) Custom exhaust 5) Ag tires on all four wheels 6) Swept axle w/gear reduction steering 7) New steering wheel 8) New seat 9) Custom dash panels out of aluminum diamond plate - with tachometer, gas gauge, hour meter, and ammeter. 10) 12 volt power outlet and USB outlet to bring her to 21st century standards 11) 85% of the wiring replaced 12) LED lights front and rear 13) Custom 2" receiver I am sure there is more that I cannot think about at the moment. I just have to finish the hood before I install new decals and then I think I will have a great start to another thirty years of life. Not too bad for a worker!
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2 pointsI only have approximately an acre of grass but the Super C made really quick work of it today. So the beta test is a success. This is thing really is bigger than the standard version. I imagine you guys with the 520's and others with 60 inch decks have same experience. This may end up being more mower than I need but for now, it's great! Here is a after mowing pic.
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2 pointsJust bought this wheel horse anyone tell me anything about it. It runs and drives has a plow but no mower deck, needs a new rear tire other than that it's in great shape, planning on using it to plow my driveway with
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2 pointsBrilliant information! * Kelsey runs over to his WH C-100 manual and writes this down.*
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1 pointI just completed a hub conversion on my 312-8 with 520 front end. Being unable to find 520 front wheels, I decided to go with trailer hubs. I could not find a good write up on the swap, so I am posting this for anyone who wants to do this swap. All parts (minus tires) came to about $100, so the conversion is around the same price as a set of clean 520 rims. Parts List -Trailer Hub Kit, I bought this off Ebay From Elgin Trailer Parts, This includes 2X 1000lb 4 bolt trailer hubs, bearings, 1" x 1.25" seals, and dust caps. (Fits BT8 1" spindle) Cost- 57$ shipped -Wheels, I ordered 5-3/8 x 8 rims (standard for 400 series). A big benefit to trailer hubs is that they accommodate a wide variety of rims/tire sizes. These hubs use a 4 x 4" bolt circle. Cost- 32$ shipped -Spindle Washers, 1" x 1.5" flat washer, 14ga or 18ga. I bought these from lowes but These can be sourced anywhere. Qty 2 needed. -Hub End Washers, .75" x 1.25" flat washer, 14ga or 18ga. I bought these from lowes but These can be sourced anywhere. Qty 2 needed. -Bronze Sleeve Bearing, 1" ID x 1.25" OD x .5" Long, I bought these from Mcmaster-Carr P/N 6391K281 Qty 2 needed. -3/4-16 Slotted Lock Nut, Mine were missing. I bought these from Mcmaster-Carr P/N 95030A270, Qty 2 needed, Sold in 10 pack. Installation is straight forward. The pictures pretty much sum up the steps. The bearing need to be hand packed with grease before assembly. Install the inner bearing before inserting the seal. The hub nuts are not intended to be torques very hard. Just snug them up and install the correct size cotter pin. The hubs are very smooth and solid. I am very happy with the results. Thanks, -Justin
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1 point
121 downloads
7 pages 186.44KB Service assembly SA #107984 replaces the following deck spindles Mower Rotary 1971 36in SD model 5-0710 CW Mower Rotary 1972 36in SD model 5-0711 CW Mower Rotary 1972 36in SD model 5-0720 CW Mower Rotary 1973 36in SD model 5-0721 CW Mower Rotary 1974 36in SD model 5-0721 CW Mower Rotary 1975 36in SD model 5-0722 CW Mower Rotary 1976 36in SD model 65-36MS01 Mower Rotary 1977 36in SD model 75-36MS01 Mower Rotary 1977 36in SD model 75-36MS02 Mower Rotary 1978 36in SD model 85-36MS01 Mower Rotary 1979 36in SD model 95-36MS00 Service assembly SA #107985 replaces the following deck spindles Mower Rotary 1969 36in RD model 5-7365 CW Mower Rotary 1970 36in RD model 5-7366 CW Mower Rotary 1971 36in RD model 5-0600 CW Mower Rotary 1972 36in RD model 5-0601 CW Mower Rotary 1972 36in RD model 5-0620 CW Mower Rotary 1973 36in RD model 5-0621 Mower Rotary 1974 36in RD model 5-0602 CW Mower Rotary 1974 36in RD model 5-0621 Mower Rotary 1975 36in RD model 5-0622 CW Mower Rotary 1976 36in RD model 65-36XR01 Mower Rotary 1977 36in RD model 75-36XR01 Mower Rotary 1977 36in RD model 75-36XR02 Mower Rotary 1978 36in RD model 85-36MR01 Mower Rotary 1979 36in RD model 95-36MR00 Mower Rotary 1979 36in RD model 95-36YR01 Service assembly SA #107986 replaces the following deck spindles Mower Rotary 1976 36in RD model 65-36MR02 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1976 36in RD model 65-36MR03 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1977 36in RD model 75-36MR01 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1977 36in RD model 75-36MR02 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1978 36in RD model 85-36XR01 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1979 36in RD model 95-36XR00 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) - Last 36" RD deck to use these blades Mower Rotary 1976 36in SD model 65-36XS02 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1976 36in SD model 65-36XS03 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1977 36in SD model 75-36XS01 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1977 36in SD model 75-36XS02 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1978 36in SD model 85-36XS01 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1979 36in SD model 95-36XS00 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) Mower Rotary 1979 36in SD model 95-36MR00 - (Blade hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D) - Last 36" SD deck to use these blades Service assembly SA #110986 with metric bearings replaces the above and following deck spindles Mower Rotary 1979 36in RD model 95-36MR01 - (Blade hole 3/4" round) - First 36" RD deck to use these blades Mower Rotary 1979 36in RD model 95-36XR01 - (Blade hole 3/4" round) Mower Rotary 1980 36in RD model 05-36MR01 Mower Rotary 1981 36in RD model 05-36MR01 Mower Rotary 1982 36in RD model 05-36MR01 Mower Rotary 1980 36in RD model 05-36XR01 - (Blade hole 3/4" round) Mower Rotary 1981 36in RD model 05-36XR01 Mower Rotary 1982 36in RD model 05-36XR01 Mower Rotary 1980 36in RD model 05-36YR01 Mower Rotary 1981 36in RD model 05-36YR01 Mower Rotary 1982 36in RD model 05-36YR01 Mower Rotary 1983 36in RD model 05-36YR01 Mower Rotary 1984 36in RD model 05-36YR01 Mower Rotary 1979 36in SD model 95-36MS01 - (Blade hole 3/4" round) - First 36" SD deck to use these blades Mower Rotary 1979 36in SD model 95-36XS01 - (Blade hole 3/4" round) Mower Rotary 1980 36in SD model 05-36MS01 Mower Rotary 1981 36in SD model 05-36MS01 Mower Rotary 1982 36in SD model 05-36MS01 Mower Rotary 1980 36in SD model 05-36XS01 Mower Rotary 1981 36in SD model 05-36XS01Free
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1 pointGreat! Now I can b#%*h at BMW, Lexus, Acura and now vintage Wheelhorse owners when they blind me at night! Nice work, Mike!
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1 pointLooks like the D-200 has a vacuum operated fuel pump. I wonder if the pump diaphragm is leaking and allowing fuel to be sucked into the crankcase through the vacuum line? I have never had anything to do with this style of pump. Garry
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1 pointWow great pic!!! Looks like a lot of fun I don't have any extra tiller parts but my mid 80's tiller could be of good use to get measurements from if you wanted to fab up what you need?
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1 pointI have an 18 HP Vanguard on a C-120. It's a tight fit. I'm using the original belts as I located the crank shaft at the original location.
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1 pointLikely a rod came apart After hearing a tapping noise and then you dont feel any exhaust that likely means the piston aint moving. Now for the really bad news! parts for that 18hp are scarce as hens teeth. I'm just finishing up a D-200 and needed a rod and scoured the net for days and days when suddenly one popped up on the bay - whew! Piston and rings will interchange from a K-301 (I'm pretty sure) on my K-532 I'm using piston/rings from a K-321, but head gaskets wont interchange and they too are hard to find. Gaskets and rods will interchange from the K-482, K-532 and the K-582.
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1 pointI think that it may have been for the European Market. Using the different nomenclature (sandpaper and pin-cotter) is a clue. The footrests could be a different design/angle so that the seat pan could be raised to compensate for the 15" wheels. More Europeans have small gardens than here in the USA. BCS and Grillo still command the two-wheel tractor market there.
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1 pointcheck your float it may have a pin hole take it out and shake it and see if any gas is inside it also check float height with carb off and upside down should be level with carb body Brian
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1 pointI have a few spares. If you are in the area you can have them. Syracuse Indiana.
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1 pointThat'll make a nice one, Tom. I'll be watching for the thread on it.
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1 pointAll of it looks great... but, that diamond plate is the shizzle.
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1 pointCongrats... cool tractors... good luck with it.
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1 pointOnly (2) Horses bigger is size and weight. D-250 and any of the "XI" line. < Those are big! Anyone who has an "XI" can also chime in. BIG AND ROOMY! Lawn looks nice. RMC
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1 pointWell, I did try to get a photo of all the finished steering in place, but my lens isn't that wide.. So have a photo of the new steering box, it looks far neater than the old box. Buried behind the column is the relocated expansion bottle... Not the ideal place to get a funnel into but it's the only place it can fit.. You can also just about see part of the crankcase breather, yes it's the bit held down with the zip tie. Getting a bit more pressure to the front brakes turned out to be quite easy in the end. Rather than raise the whole master cylinder as I have previously mentioned I just raised one end.. The front brakes won't lock up but they will certainly help with slowing down which is just how I want it. So, with WN steering and stopping I thought it was time to make a start on the electrical side of things,,, I needed somewhere to put the starter button and warning lights and maybe the choke.. And I also needed a new dash plate.... I think this panel came from a WH 314-8 I bought for parts years ago.. That fills a hole I just need to work out where to put the lights and starter button... That's something for tomorrow..
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1 pointThanks. For some reason I had not yet done that. Might as well skip to the chase though and let it soak for a day or two.
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1 pointWell I'm the new owner of a 314H with 278 hours on the meter Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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1 pointWho said I'm lookin' for a "real" truck?
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1 pointI've had 2 rebuilds with them, piston, rings,rod & gaskets and found them to be quite nice. Of course its obviously not possible to give long term projections since the 'after markets' have been with us a relatively short time. One thing is for sure --- they are WAAAY less expensive that Kohler. Another is the easy availability of them, the 'bay' is loaded with multiple choices and price ranges.
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1 pointSafety switches? Key switch? Solenoid? If you use your jump cables directly on the solenoid and it cranks, that rules out the solenoid and starter. You can jump the safety switches with a paperclip or piece of wire and do them one at a time with a test start in between each to isolate which switch has an issue if there is one.
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1 pointIf its knocking, it needs a rebuild.
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1 pointYeah Nathaniel, you got a sick puppy there --- Like said youre gonna have to do a complete teardown and do a thorough inspection - especially the crankshaft and cylinder. At the least youre gonna need a piston and rod, but very likely also have the crank turned and maybe a bore job. Thank goodness for all the 'rebuild kits' that have cropped up on the 'bay' in the last couple years, you can get an extensive 'kit' in the $100+ range. Kohler parts would cause a heart attack!!
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1 pointNever underestimate the power of a rattle can ... Just saying ...
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1 pointIn addition to the good advices above, be sure you are using an "A" or 1/2" belt. For the longest time I was using a 5/8" belt on my "C" chassis with the same poor wear result.
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1 pointSounds like an excellent purchase. Post pic's, we're nosey.
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1 pointI managed a few... Here is Squonk at the bus stop... A great shot of Zeek Mike sitting on this year's Raffle Tractor Bob Maynard taking a spin around the ground...stopped to talk with me and my wife Chris This is Howard.....857 Horse from Virginia. Terry and Lola with Granddaughter...that's buddy under the table. Howard and Don ...varosd Vinsrj RacinBob...Bob and Nancy...it was excellent spending time with them this year. Jay in NC, Jack (wishin4a416) and Bob Maynard SteveBo Nylon (Karl), Fireman (Jeff) and Vin RWilson, Stevasaurus, KenB and RacinBob... Me and Cas (formariz)...holding up a couple of plates for Koen... Me, Birdie (RedBird) and Brian (Buckrancher) The rest are various attempts at getting a good group picture for this year...hope you enjoy.
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1 pointHi Paul, 2500 degree, (yea, right), ceramic Rust-oleum in a plain Jane metallic/aluminum finish. I cured it in one of our drying ovens where I work! I don't know how well it will hold up. I just need to do the wheels, change out the tires and get my seat back. I have some orange peel on the paint job but it's a lot better than some I have seen! I'll post a pic of the re-upholstered seat when I get it back.
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1 pointA good friend of mine told me he misplaced his cell phone while he was at the WHCC show. Fortunately, the phone made it's way back to him but I wanted to share this with everyone. I am retired from the volunteer fire service, and we learned a long time ago to look at a persons cell phone contacts for ICE.....In Case of Emergency. You need to make ICE an emergency contact like your spouse, or nearest relative that can assist emergency personnel with information if you are injured. This ICE contact can also be contacted if your phone is found, therefore helping the finder know who's phone they found! I hope this all makes sense, as it looks like I was rambling! My wife I actually have ICE, ICE 2, and ICE 3 in our phones.
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1 pointIt worked amazing! I just cut a little slit for a screw driver in the end of the broken bolt and did the battery thing and it came right out! Thanks so much Garry! I am not worried about the broken off ear on the cast iron case. Here's the video. https://youtu.be/9eICuoKmLeQ
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1 pointNow that I have started using the C-120 I restored, I've noticed a knock, only when under load. I did not do any work on the engine as it seemed to be running very well. The only thing I did engine related was remove the head and valves. Cleaned everything up, checked the gap on the valves, installed a new head gasket and put it back together. Am I looking at a connecting rod problem?
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1 pointYou need to re-shim the steering shaft where it goes through the fan assembly... lay on your back and follow the shaft from the front axle backwards. You wiill see where it goes through the fan and there will be a stack of thin shims/washers and a cotter pin. You need to remove the cotter pin and add a few shims to tighten the fan gear to steering wheel gear gap. I usually pry gently backwards on the shaft in the area between the front axle and frame with a screwdriver to get it tight and allow me to shove the cotter pin home. It will be good as new after that... you can buy thin shims/washers with a 3/4" hole at any decent hardware store. Tony
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