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Who said I'm lookin' for a "real" truck?

Was A great little show. Got to meet Tom & Jason and see some neat stuff. Lots of cool Cases if thats your thing. Definitely will go to next years and hopefully breing a horse or two. Missed meeting Stevasaurus tho .... somethin about havin to go back to IL cause they needed his Cutler jersey for (target?) practice at Bears training camp.... Here were a few of my favorites.

Your brother would look good on my 520H w/60" deck!!!....yep, I've still got it in the Horse Barn....could be one of your "six" (trailer load)

I only have approximately an acre of grass but the Super C made really quick work of it today. So the beta test is a success. This is thing really is bigger than the standard version. I imagine you guys with the 520's and others with 60 inch decks have same experience. This may end up being more mower than I need but for now, it's great! Here is a after mowing pic.

Finally finished the 417. The seat came back from the upholstery shop late last week. (50 bucks and he did a really nice job on it)! Finished the rims in Rustoleum Metallic. Had to use the old tires though and I found I have two different tires up front and surprisingly, two different rims on it. I need all four tires on it and will wait a while to do it. I added pliable cups to the spindle tops and cut out the area where the cotter pin moves. This will help keep them clean. The governor still revs it up some at idle mid and full throttle so I have to delve into it next. (Not certain what that is all about). I think the PO has a NAPA belt on it and it grabs on the clutch release. It's just a hair too short. It turned out nice but now I have to put it in service! All I do is mow with the rain and temps we have had and the two I alternate with need a little break. (Doing three big lawns).

Purchased from a Red Square member a few months ago then hauled all the way from the big show by another Red Square member this 1045 serial #21858 is now making it's home in Minnesota. She looks tough but will get the full treatment, new heart is already awaiting to bring this one back to life.

That is just glorious! If I had to give up my 520's, I would want a C-195.

When the points are open the voltage at the coil (-) should be battery voltage. When the points are closed the voltage at the (-) coil side should be 0 volts. Remove the spark plug so you can turn the engine over by hand and watch the voltage. The voltage should cycle once for every two turns of the crankshaft. If it still stays at 0 volts while turning the engine over the points are not opening or shorted, the wire from the coil to the points is shorted to the engine block or tinwork or the condenser is shorted internally which can be heat related. Garry

Personally, if I had gotten a NOS onan, I would unbolt the pan and both heads to visually inspect it. Don't run it until you have to. There will be fuel sitting in the carb and oil getting old sitting in the pan (yes oil breaks down with just time and no use). I would open it up, spray it all with a light oil, close it up wrap it up and put it in climate controlled storage until you decide to use it. Have a set of new gaskets on hand and open it up one more time before you use it and check it all over for surface rust then throw your new gaskets on, torque the bolts, fill'er up and go! You can run through the proper break in period without a huge amount of time passing. I have no scientific evidence for this, just my thoughts.

Well I'm the new owner of a 314H with 278 hours on the meter Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Yeah, you're gonna want to bolt that sucker down! There was a thread a while back in "engines" regarding bench testing an Onan. Do a search and it will show up.

and only 2 doors!

After talkin to Shynon (Tom) and Jason this past weekend I have decided NOT to restore it but leave as is. Going to get the cloride out of the front tires and replace them. Very carefully powerwash as to not blast anymore paint off and get the motor running. Hopefully got some motor essentials coming from a guy in Idaho. Keep ya'll posted with plenty of pics! Thanks for the tip on "oiling the horses" Tom, will definitly do it to the deck. Keep in touch...if I should happen to die in a motorcycle crash come and get it, It's yours free, I feel maybe just a little bit guilty about rustling it across the border & It would look nice in your fine herd.....

I got lucky and found this beautiful 701 at the Garden tractor daze show in portage wi. It is complete with a few minor wrong parts. Looking forward to restoring this one seeing how I have been trying to peice one together for a couple years now. I guess that means I'll have spare parts

check your oil level I think this machine has the oil switch in the motor base that is the only thing that will make your relay click the relay is normally closed for starting the oil level switch is normally open if the oil switch closes and allows 12 volt to go thru it to the single connector on the relay it will open the points inside the relay that's the clicking sound you hear try unplugging the single connector on the relay and see if she starts Brian

If it's anything like my 416-H, there is quite a bit of disassembly required to remove it or even get a wrench in there to snug fittings. The front plate where the fuse block and relays mount prevent even visual access. Don't know what the engineers were thinking when they designed the 400 series.

Guys count me in! I would also really like to see more WH at my plow day, 2 hrs from where this meet and greet is being held. Ill drag mowing man and a few others with me!

The tractor was almost a hour away and I was not able to work on it but I have it at home now and I will be able to use it and work on it when I want.

It's cheesy but for those who have an FEL with the crossbeam above the dash...................well, it was three bucks at Walmart and though it's not Wheelhorse red, it is reddish and what the h#*l anyway!

Couple weeks ago I saw something I could not pass up. 1998 Sovereign that had been garage kept. Came with the rear collection system, all belt shields, and deflector shields, 42" snow blower, chains, weights, and all manuals. I used the bagger system twice, works great, but I noticed the left side of the deck drooping a bit, so I took the bagger off. Washed, waxed, and detailed, and now it is ready for a parade. It is a (2) owner, me being number (2), tractor. The original owner had an acre of land it was used on since new. I am guessing it may have around 500hrs total. It cleaned up very nice, but I did notice some areas he had probably never cleaned. Around the right rear diff. it was caked with built up dirt and grease. < I am guessing he just kept putting grease in and never wiped off the excess. Also the outer air element was loaded with debris. The actual air filter was not as bad as what the outer looked. Runs like a champ. I am looking for a cab though. Anyone have any leads! Rob.

Eureka! Lawn cutting succes with the super C. Albeit only a couple passes. The real test will be in a few days when the lawn requires a cut. I replaced the Clutch and bearings on the PTO. Also found an old thread where Baerpath suggested roughing the friction material as it had glazed appearance and followed suit. Now the deck cuts like a dream! Still getting used used to the higher center of gravity. I am starting the thread by i-phone for first time and will try and upload the pic of the C195 at work....since lawn was under control. Also my c161 and one of the GT14's.....

I will soon as I can I'm still at work Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

You can bring it to my house and I'll test it for a few years! OK maybe not! I tested two Onans on my work bench after decarboning them and discovering a valve issue on one. You will see it's quite easy to do. (As stated above, search for the thread on bench testing an Onan). The hard part was keeping it on the bench and all I did was use C-clamps on the oil sump bolts holes using thick rubber gasketing between the clamp and the aluminum. (You don't want to tighten them down too tight or those tabs will snap). Make sure its a solid surface beneath the tabs. Some flat stock under them will make sure you don't stress them. I just clamped the two of the four hole tabs that faced me on the bench leaving the two in the back open. (PTO side facing me). It held it very well. I used a small oil reservoir, (holds a pint), to keep gasoline to the fuel pump.

That may be part of my not charging issue also. Thanks!

What you have is a 1960 Suburban 400. The rear hole in the hood is not supposed to be there and it looks like the frame has been lengthened, not sure.

Just picked up my lift cable for my 953 from Wheelhorseman1000. He can make custom lengths and these things are strong! He really did his research on these and made a couple improvements like a plastic lined cable tube. Just wanted to share these and say thanks Lowell!

There were several models that were 4 and 5 HP, and they could all push a blade. Mostly it depends on the Wheel Horse you're talking about. If you're talking about something hydro, then no.

M151A1 hit it! Door edge guard works perfect. I removed the clips (what a PIA). Installed sections of door edge guard. Installed covers. I did have to "adjust" the tension on two of the caps by flexing the lip out making the fit a bit more tight, but these things don't budge. Without prying them off, there is no removing them. Nice thing is they tapped in as secure as they would with the metal clips. No silicone or glue needed. If they fall off or come loose, I'll post back. Thanks for all your input and to M151A1 for saving my wheels!

Hey guys I'm new here, but I figured I would share my project I have going on. My neighbor was going to take his old c-100 to the land fill and I asked him about it, he said if I wanted it, it was mine. So I picked up for free! I have a 520-H that I'm pulling the onan off of and using it to power the c-100. My later plans are to put the hydrostatic rear end under the c-100 too. Yes the 520 was in perfect running shape, but I never was fond of that body style, so I'm building one!

Tractor Part Mart has that bearing for $14.28 last time I looked. I need to order one and replace it now while the weather is warm.

Do you mean aftermarket parts? I have found that most aftermarket parts are just as good, and much less expensive. There will be others that disagree with me, but that is my experience and opinion.

No way! I understand the whole brand loyalty thing but sometimes you have to take the blinders off. I'll bring my JD 318 over to SteveBo's meet & greet and let anyone who wants to try it. I would say it compares to the 520 & 522XI. The big advantage is the real live hydraulics. I've driven a ton of garden tractors of all types and brands and as far I'm concerned the 318 is the overall best. Even used beat up 318s with like 1500 hours are still selling for over $1500 all day long. Ones in the condition and low hours like mine are commanding like $2800! No green junk at my meet and greet.... lol

More pictures from the show, This was a great show I think total count was around 550 garden tractors in attendance. I am planning on attending next year again. Would be great to get some more Horse's to show up next year. Thanks for looking.

There are some videos and some excellent threads concerning the 8 speed trans in the Reference/Transmission section on the main page...this is one of the good ones... I had my #1533 ball bearing fall apart inside one of my trannys...it kind of sounds to me like you may have the same thing going on. There are 12 of those 1/4" balls in one of those bearings and they just love to get trapped in the teeth of the gears. I would not keep rolling yours around. Drop it and open it up...you want the shallow side of the tranny down when you split it. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/17947-idiots-guide-to-8-spd-trans-rebuild/

Now that's using the old noodle. Great idea and not cheesy.

Like you Bob, I'm also in the market for a truck (sold mine a couple weeks ago). Whatever you do don't "under-buy". If you can afford to go with a Tundra with a V-8 do it! If you load up a 6x12 with 4 "C" series machine you have a very heavy trailer. You'll be glad you have the available power. Mike.........

So, sell that green thing... for profit instead.

Love the new led lights

Yeah, What's up with "The Ohio State" colors?

I might be able to swing down there as well! Keep us updated as time gets closer.

Thanks Van, it's good to know I come above Benny Hill As promised a photo of the finished steering box mount. Only tacked on in this photo, it has been fully welded on now. Time to chop the column down a bit. The part sliced off the top of the outer column has a bush in the top so I need to reuse it. I also need to graft this bit of the old steering column onto the inner bit of the new column.. The hole is for a massive roll pin that makes sure the steering wheel will never come off without the aid of a large hammer and punch No action shots as I was busy getting on with doing it.. One chopped column, a little over 1 ft has gone from it's height. A test fit.. The angle of the steering wheel has changed. A bit more upright than it was but not by much at all.. Working out the new Pitman arm... Yes that is a box spanner.. But it's more than strong enough and is a nice tight, straight fit on the steering box splines.. So why not use it The new column finished and almost ready to be bolted back in. The mounting bracket at the top bolt's in just behind the dash surround.. The new steering is now bolted in place, no photo's I'm afraid but the steering feels much improved (well, as much as I can test it on the bench) and it's now a tad over two turns lock to lock which is way better than the old 3rd of a turn lock to lock. And I also have a bit more lock now With Why Not booked in to her first show in a months time, it's going to be a busy few weeks!

here is the belt arrangement.

Very interesting! I like the idea. I'll check it out. very interesting idea, let us know if you try it please. glenn

Thanks Prondzy, now more research on how many different lengths they made. Here is a picture of a few

I will gladly join when the debit card/credit card payment option is viable. Since it costs money to pay by card I would be open to a two tiered price schedule. $15 for debit/credit and $10 for cash or check if $10 is still the membership fee.

Yea I had this big guy for about 15 years now. This was a remission gift to myself after a long battle with stage 4 cancer at age of 20. It's truly a cream puff it has only 49k miles on it and never seen a winter.

I use sealed bearings on all my show tractors to keep the hubs clean, but regular unsealed bearings on my workers. My reasoning is that the workers gets down in the snow and mud and having the entire hub filled with grease keeps the water out. Having no grease inside the hub invites water and ultimately rust.

didn't get much done today, not much i can do until i get the 90 degree box. I did make the adapter so i can use my Colwood mono tractor implements with my WH. i got these on the cheap but to be honest I'm not entirely sure what this implement does! i think it is for removing weeds from between rows of crops. thats what the seller said but he wasn't 100% on that either. I've got some other bits a pieces al well. the important thing about using Colwood bits on my WH is that i wouldn't have to modify the colwood implements in anyway which i have got away with. if some one could post a picture of how the clevis hitch lift works that would be great, I've got to start making mine but i don't know how its done as standard. i will be getting some bolts that are more suitable. callum

I bought 100 ball bearings from McMaster I don't even bother to look for the stupid little detent balls when they shoot out and roll away!!!