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Finally finished the 417. The seat came back from the upholstery shop late last week. (50 bucks and he did a really nice job on it)! Finished the rims in Rustoleum Metallic. Had to use the old tires though and I found I have two different tires up front and surprisingly, two different rims on it. I need all four tires on it and will wait a while to do it. I added pliable cups to the spindle tops and cut out the area where the cotter pin moves. This will help keep them clean. The governor still revs it up some at idle mid and full throttle so I have to delve into it next. (Not certain what that is all about). I think the PO has a NAPA belt on it and it grabs on the clutch release. It's just a hair too short. It turned out nice but now I have to put it in service! All I do is mow with the rain and temps we have had and the two I alternate with need a little break. (Doing three big lawns).

Turned out to be a beautiful day to head out early & get some riding in . Here's a couple for anyone interested in seeing them .

Well i guess its time for me to admit I need a horse with more power I've been using my B-60 for a year or two now and I've always thought it had plenty of power but sense i've been using it to help my brother mow his yard that is very big and has lots of hills i've realized the B-60 just don't have enough power. I have to mow in 1st gear most the time 2nd if i'm lucky and the little 36" rd just is not that big when you get out in a wide open area I love using it at home in my little in town yard but i think i'm going to look for something a little bigger like a 312 or 314. I would like to hear what you guys think about this decision

It's cheesy but for those who have an FEL with the crossbeam above the dash...................well, it was three bucks at Walmart and though it's not Wheelhorse red, it is reddish and what the h#*l anyway!

I got lucky and found this beautiful 701 at the Garden tractor daze show in portage wi. It is complete with a few minor wrong parts. Looking forward to restoring this one seeing how I have been trying to peice one together for a couple years now. I guess that means I'll have spare parts

More pictures from the show, This was a great show I think total count was around 550 garden tractors in attendance. I am planning on attending next year again. Would be great to get some more Horse's to show up next year. Thanks for looking.

I agree with the dirty sticky pulley part. My 12 8 spd did that with a WH belt, a Napa green belt and a TSC kevlar belt. I finally discovered that the trans drive pulley was worn unevenly. Replaced the pulley and all is well. I have the same issues with motor sheaves at work. Over time the surfaces will wear almost like a car rotor. Then a belt no matter the brand, material, or tension you set it at will squawk or slip. You would be surprised how much a metal pulley gets worn out by a rubber belt. I take care of over 300 belt drive pieces of equipment at work. you'd be amazed at some of the pulleys I've run across.Some are so worn, they have a knife edge on them! What would be more amazing is management buying me a laser belt alignment tool!

Here is my wheel horse classic GT 315-8.

Don't ask me why but I love the "Small Tire" 310-8. The 37 inch deck cuts Great too. The 315-8 GT Classic has 109 hours on it.

That's one way to get the loader "float" setting to work!

I like you...let this thing here... see a bit of sun today too.

After wrestling a few transmissions I decided there has got to be a better way instead of trying to balance on wooden blocks. So here it is, just a standard wire milk crate, cut out a few of the wires and the trans sits in it stable and easy to work on. Thanks for looking.

That ones not dirty, this is a dirty one! Clean it up with some solvent, and a little wire brushing to get the rust off it. After washing I like to give the needle rollers a squirt or two of brakeclean - something that will leave them "dry" - while I look for signs of pitting. If they pass visual inspection and feel good on their shafts I give them a squirt of oil. If the rollers are going to fall out, they will probably do it on disassembly, or as you are washing them. The bearing is designed to stay together, if the rollers fall out, then they had enough wear on them to create too much clearance - so you needed a new one anyway. They are cheap, but often I dont replace them unless I need to. Gearboxes are a little intimidating at first, but they are pretty simple once you start to understand them.

No way! I understand the whole brand loyalty thing but sometimes you have to take the blinders off. I'll bring my JD 318 over to SteveBo's meet & greet and let anyone who wants to try it. I would say it compares to the 520 & 522XI. The big advantage is the real live hydraulics. I've driven a ton of garden tractors of all types and brands and as far I'm concerned the 318 is the overall best. Even used beat up 318s with like 1500 hours are still selling for over $1500 all day long. Ones in the condition and low hours like mine are commanding like $2800! No green junk at my meet and greet.... lol

Guys count me in! I would also really like to see more WH at my plow day, 2 hrs from where this meet and greet is being held. Ill drag mowing man and a few others with me!

There are some videos and some excellent threads concerning the 8 speed trans in the Reference/Transmission section on the main page...this is one of the good ones... I had my #1533 ball bearing fall apart inside one of my trannys...it kind of sounds to me like you may have the same thing going on. There are 12 of those 1/4" balls in one of those bearings and they just love to get trapped in the teeth of the gears. I would not keep rolling yours around. Drop it and open it up...you want the shallow side of the tranny down when you split it. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/17947-idiots-guide-to-8-spd-trans-rebuild/

Well back from a great show lots of great people and tractors, thought I'd share a few pics with everyone. The first was wheel horse row colt was in the feature building with case Here's a case demonstrator model custom cases a dozer an orchard and a tricycle this was an amphibicar a panzer I always liked the color of these this was our neighbors at the shows tractors the front one is a 140 and yes that is a three bottom plow! wheel horse row again a custom sulky for the kids It was a great show can't wait to go again next year!

Like you Bob, I'm also in the market for a truck (sold mine a couple weeks ago). Whatever you do don't "under-buy". If you can afford to go with a Tundra with a V-8 do it! If you load up a 6x12 with 4 "C" series machine you have a very heavy trailer. You'll be glad you have the available power. Mike.........

Thanks you guys .... this gives me an idea of what to look more closely at. Just to let you guys in on it, What I did was I converted a 518H to an 8 spd. A 5073 build by MB, and a donor SK486 for the clutch and brake linkages. I left the drive pulley on the engine (knowing it is 5 1/4" instead of 4") and got a 86" belt to accommodate this change. I knew it was gonna run a bit faster, but now is too fast. I have to mow in 1st gear....lol. I now have a 4" pulley to put on the engine and a new 83" belt from TSC. Would be nice to have a gauge for the pulleys.... Thanks. Ya know, come to think of it, I would never replace a chain without replacing the sprockets. Maybe I should look for new sheaves before I burn up another belt...

Sure... more is always better.

Yesterday I had the chance to just "get out of the house." My wife and I had lunch at a smaller "Five Guys" further North that was accessible for me. A trip to TSC was also included with her doing the running! Along the way, they were harvesting wheat down here as well.

For being easy, it took you almost a month!

Still no picts on this end.

So, sell that green thing... for profit instead.

I agree 100% with "Save Old Iron."

It's a keeper. Put it to work. That's what I'm doing with mine with 109 hours on the clock. Looks Great!

I recently got a new job at the local metal recycling yard. In two weeks time I was able to save a few Wheel Horse implements. One tiller one snow plow and two single stage snowblower. All of these were headed to the sherreder but I caught it just in time. These findings lead me two my next find a 416 8 with electric lift. Going tomorrow night to pick up the tractor I will get pics of it tomorrow but here are the implements

I just completed a hub conversion on my 312-8 with 520 front end. Being unable to find 520 front wheels, I decided to go with trailer hubs. I could not find a good write up on the swap, so I am posting this for anyone who wants to do this swap. All parts (minus tires) came to about $100, so the conversion is around the same price as a set of clean 520 rims. Parts List -Trailer Hub Kit, I bought this off Ebay From Elgin Trailer Parts, This includes 2X 1000lb 4 bolt trailer hubs, bearings, 1" x 1.25" seals, and dust caps. (Fits BT8 1" spindle) Cost- 57$ shipped -Wheels, I ordered 5-3/8 x 8 rims (standard for 400 series). A big benefit to trailer hubs is that they accommodate a wide variety of rims/tire sizes. These hubs use a 4 x 4" bolt circle. Cost- 32$ shipped -Spindle Washers, 1" x 1.5" flat washer, 14ga or 18ga. I bought these from lowes but These can be sourced anywhere. Qty 2 needed. -Hub End Washers, .75" x 1.25" flat washer, 14ga or 18ga. I bought these from lowes but These can be sourced anywhere. Qty 2 needed. -Bronze Sleeve Bearing, 1" ID x 1.25" OD x .5" Long, I bought these from Mcmaster-Carr P/N 6391K281 Qty 2 needed. -3/4-16 Slotted Lock Nut, Mine were missing. I bought these from Mcmaster-Carr P/N 95030A270, Qty 2 needed, Sold in 10 pack. Installation is straight forward. The pictures pretty much sum up the steps. The bearing need to be hand packed with grease before assembly. Install the inner bearing before inserting the seal. The hub nuts are not intended to be torques very hard. Just snug them up and install the correct size cotter pin. The hubs are very smooth and solid. I am very happy with the results. Thanks, -Justin

As some of you may know there has been some discussion about having a meet n greet at the family farm in western NC. I wanted to make it official that this will happen and it will be Sat-Sun of the first weekend in oct The address is 242 Mcmurray Road Rutherfordton NC 28139 There is plenty of room for RVs and trailers. However there is no provisions for water and power to plug in. I will rent a porta john and water is available. This is a first for us so any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Bert

I just picked up this gt 14 from another current member its all straight but been repainted many years back . I am going to give it a refresh . Hope you all enjoy my pictures Did some weldinat the shop to both fenders same spots stress cracks . Prep time Paint time . Im happy with outcome !

Hello I have just collected my latest eBay bargain, a 70's Wheelhorse tractor which is badged as a Commando 800 and the ID plate says its a Model 1-0141 Serial No 145691 made in Amnor Belgium, I just looked up the model number 1-0141 and that corresponds to a 1975 B80. Was the B80 sold as the more macho sounding Commando 800 in the UK? Good bits: It's all thereKohler engine spins on the electric startTin work has no holes Bad bitsRotten tyresNo spark (yet)Can't get it into 1st or reverse but 2 and 3 select easily, any ideas about how major this is? I'm going to concentrate on getting it running and then the tarting up can start.

Years ago I owned a Toro Wheelhorse 520H with a 46" deck but unfortunately I had to sell it. I've missed that tractor ever since I sold it and a couple of days ago I was browsing through Craigslist and came across a 520H with a 60" deck. The Onan engine fired up right away and ran great at high RPMs, it missed a little at idle but a carb cleaning should fix that up. I ended up getting it for $220, is that a good price? I noticed a small oil leak near the oil filter, hopefully its just the old filter or maybe the oil sensor. Also I found the tach gauge missing off the instrument panel and found it broken laying behind the battery, would like to know the story on that. Also looks like the PO bypassed the wiring box as its running off one fuse with some spliced wires but the tractor starts and runs. Might need some help with the wiring in the near future. Both the tractor and deck are heavily rusted so I plan on sanding priming and painting the whole tractor. Its good to be a Wheelhorse owner once again (If a Toro/Wheelhorse 520H counts!)

It is an SAE #5 ORB fitting....all 4 of them on the old Sundstrands are the same....they are on my Charger and it is the same hydro.... Hope I am telling you right.... When I put new lines on mine I got SAE #5 ORB to JIC4 male fittings and used premade hoses from Surplus Center with JIC4 female ends....

Here ya go...I did some videos of an 8 speed trans...the only difference is this has the 10 pinion differential...it should help you a lot. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/49386-6-speed-5060-10-pinion-ls-trans-rebuild/

You probably have already, but if not, check the belt drive. If you can push the tractor in all the gears (without any funny noises) then your differential is likely ok and you may just be spinning the whole transmission up to the input pulley. If that is fine then there may be a stripped gear in the transmission. Assuming your transmission case is intact then it is most likely repairable. There are some very good walk through videos on this site on tearing down and rebuilding an 8 speed. You can find out what parts you need and post a wanted ad here for them. On a 314 (unless the transmission has been replaced before) you will only have an 8 pinion or 4 pinion and your axle size should tell you (1" = 4 pinion, 1 1/8" = 8pinion). Some more knowledgeable people will be along here shortly to correct me if I'm wrong!

Depending on WHY you are picking the half size truck, you may consider looking full size like Mike mentioned. I did some pretty thorough research when I was buying and for what I was giving up, I couldn't justify the smaller truck. Its not that much cheaper, and you don't get any appreciable gas mileage differences (unless you are looking at the smallest engines). So I went with a full size, quad cab, short bed Ram. Especially now that I have a family (but even when I didn't) I really appreciated the extra space in the bed and interior. And a horse fits comfortably in the 6.5' bed. So if you are looking at Toyotas, then look at the Tundra. My buddy had one and loved it. But then again you may have other reason for looking at the smaller truck, if so, ignore me!

No way! I understand the whole brand loyalty thing but sometimes you have to take the blinders off. I'll bring my JD 318 over to SteveBo's meet & greet and let anyone who wants to try it. I would say it compares to the 520 & 522XI. The big advantage is the real live hydraulics. I've driven a ton of garden tractors of all types and brands and as far I'm concerned the 318 is the overall best. Even used beat up 318s with like 1500 hours are still selling for over $1500 all day long. Ones in the condition and low hours like mine are commanding like $2800! Just had a 318 at the shop. Frame support for rear axle was cracked off on both sides. Only one bolt holding the transaxle in anymore. Can't believe it didn't let go. Would have been bad! Tractor never had anything on it other then a mowing deck and a tiny 38" at that for cutting around cemetery plots. I have to say for such a heavy machine, it has a very poor axle mount. Needless to say is that mount wont be breaking anymore! My number one biggest gripe with john deere , is how much of a pain they are to work on. Everything is hidden under some kind of shield. Drop the deck, belly pan just to grease the driveshaft. The power steering is nice I guess. Give me the simplicity of a wheel horse any day of the week. Also , half the reason they cost so much is the mind over matter of the green paint phenomenon. Don't mind the 316 stickers. It had a hood swap...

just make sure it isn't the Eaton 700 hydro on the 314-A. the 314-H should be fine with the better Eaton 1100

I WILL BE THERE WITH MY 1054 DIESEL WHEEL HORSE ON SATURDAY.

I might be able to.

Nice clean machine.

With tomato soup being red I would have put auto tranny fluid in it.

I looked at a Tacoma when I got my Tundra. Mind you, I was looking for something for 15 grand or less so a 1 or 2 year low mileage truck was out. I had a 99 Tacoma years ago but it got bought back under the frame recall so I had some Tacoma expierence. My local garage specializes in Toyota and Honda. I had a nice 4 Runner that I sold to my son with the 4.7 V-8. I missed a truck so it was either a Tacoma or Tundra. The garage had an 06 Tundra 4.7 with 162,000 on the clock and an 08 Tacoma with the 3.4 with 98,000. I drove both and there was really no comparison. The Tundra won hands down with power, ride room ect. The Tacoma felt cheap to me. They are great looking trucks and Toyota has no problem selling them. When was the last time you saw an ad for a Tacoma on TV? I don't think I've ever saw one! But it's a Tundra for me and will be the next time unless I lease something that I don't have to worry about after 3 years. The 4.7 will run forever I'm told.

Steve, I don't see any Illinois plates. I have a couple to contribute, if you want. John

Never underestimate the power of a rattle can ... Just saying ...

I bought some from Forest Depot ,good price fast fair shipping .

http://www.newhavenpower.com/toro_300_Series_Attachment_index.html This site offers some. Just scroll down and they should be there.

I pay the same amount as anyone else but it isn't bad each blower came out to 12 bucks I'm just lucky enough to get to see them and grab the stuff in time and all the guys I work with help me out if it's wheel horse it gets put to the side for me and I assure you nothing wheel horse will be shredded as long as I can help it who's knows I get too much and I can help out fellow wheel horse lovers on this awesome forum

The top part of the teeth of this fork gear used to look like the bottom part. You can bet that the cluster gear, this meshed with, is much the same way. It comes form the grinding of shifting the gears without coming to a complete stop. A new cluster gear (if you can still buy a new one) is/was $280.

I was able to use the new bearings and lock collars just perfectly. Here are some pics.... Here's a Timken box with number in case anyone else needs to get theirs replaced too. Cleaned up the end of the shaft and ran an emery cloth over it. Installed the inner retaining plate and tapped on the new bearing. Installed the outer retaining plate and shot some grease into her to make sure it was full. Fastened the collar lock on the outside, reconnected the chain and relubed it and it's all set to go. Just have to wait for the BIG snow now ( yeah, right....) I noticed that these bearings have outer flanges that are an offset or concentric design in relationship to the shaft that they attached to, along with the inner flange of the locking collar too. Does anyone know why they are this way? Thanks. -BK