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Figured i would start a new thread on this tractor. I gave it a bath the other day and today I figured I would just give it a quick coat of wax to see how it looks before I degrease everything underneath "not that there's a lot under there". I bought this tractor with the intention of cleaning it up and selling it but I am really beginning to like it. At 400 hours it's like a new machine. Really not sure what I will do with it. Storage space is always at a premium so we'll see what happens. I knew it needed a new PTO switch so I ordered an OEM Toro one. The front hood decal has some big scrapes in it and the left side 315-8 sticker is missing half of it so I am going to order new ones. The cup holder has a couple of cracks so I will order a new replacement for that also. The left footrest is just starting to bubble at the edge which I assume is from water sitting under the plastic. New OEM footrests are still available from Toro for $65. Otherwise that's all it needs besides a nice buff job and some detailing. The 48" deck is still in the back of my truck. Going to pull that out and clean the underside then wash and wax it.

If you substitute the name Kolher or Briggs or Kawasaki for Tecumseh, your post sounds identical to 90% of the other posts in the engine category, Troubleshoot the symptoms, and ignore the pissing and moaning regarding what name is on the engine.

Here are a few pictures of the plates I collected from some of you guys at the Big Show and other places. I will be mailing these to Koen ( C-101plowerpower ) in the Netherlands this week. Thanks all that made this possible...it is quite a collection.

I just picked up this gt 14 from another current member its all straight but been repainted many years back . I am going to give it a refresh . Hope you all enjoy my pictures Did some weldinat the shop to both fenders same spots stress cracks . Prep time Paint time . Im happy with outcome !

Here's the photos the little I've used it. It is in need of a tune up because I think it had been sitting a while it's not bad the deck is a little rough I'll post after pics of it once it's cleaned up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Knobs and final engine and deck decals installed. All decals by Denny Clarke and http://www.RedoYourHorse.com! Finally done!

Well I been looking for a Loader for my Wheel horse D tractor now for awhile and finally found one. Drove 4 hours to Ohio to get it and seems pretty solid with alot of potential for a good project. Little confuse on the rear of the tractor has brakes and foot pedals like the D200 tractor. I have a feeling it is a Mixed D tractor...

Just picked this craftsman up believe it to be a early 60's cannot find any info for sure though, has a strange wind up lever on motor then a release lever to start instead of a pull start but don't see any other tags with the body on it other than 6 hp. pretty cool looking though.

That trans actually looks pretty clean. I don't think you have to press out the bearings, just be careful when you rinse them and real careful if you blow them dry with an air hose. Then oil them a little with some 90wt oil. The needles should stay in the shell. On that plug, I would just pull out the fork shafts, detente balls and spring with the stop in it, then just drill it out with a 1/4" drill bit...a 3/16" drill bit just may grab it out for you. Don't put a plug back in, just do a finger of grease or maybe a touch of silicone calk. I think you should put the forks back on the shafts before you pull the shafts out of the case, just to make sure you have them mounted correctly. It is easy to get them turned around wrong.

I had an Illinois plate the was my Dad's. It had "DBMIGF" on it...it stood for "Don't Bother Me, I'm Going Fishing". My daughter was over here and she spotted it and latched onto it. I'll take them John, If you want to send them to me. Thanks Mike, the Michigan plates used to be those colors. They are pretty heavy...I have a feeling this is going to cost some bucks.

Surprised the Michigan plates aren't Blue/ yellow/gold Just for the heck of it., Tell us how much all that weighed when you send it.

I might be able to swing down there as well! Keep us updated as time gets closer.

The HH100 is a good engine, don't get discouraged. I have two onans , two kohlers and two tecumsehs. All of them at one time or another have needed a bit of tinkering. I have a diverse herd and usually prefer to use the HH100 powered custom worker. Its reliable powerful and revs like a briggs but will chug down low like a kohler. If you can put up a few pics of your current carb/fuel pump setup Id be happy to try to help. thanks

Glad to meet another , Linder- And thanks to Bert for posting your picture! Linda

E30P coil data off an internet search shows primary resistance is 1.30-1.50 ohms and secondary is 7,700-9,500 ohms. Primary coil resistance under 3 ohms DEFINITELY REQUIRES AN EXTERNAL RESISTOR. Measure the primary resistance of the new coil before you buy / install it.

I got everything painted and ready to go(except a few small parts are not done yet). I just need 1 more coat of paint on the fenders and hood and we will be in good shape. Transmission is going back together tomorrow and a few other things. I got some amazing lug tires off ebay. They are Carlisle farm specialists 6-12 and the lugs are huge(1" tall). And they are quite thick at 6 ply. Also got some tri rib tires for the front. I ended up using rustoleum farm equipment paint in the quart can and bought some majic paint hardener and they work amazing together. The paint gets extremely hard in just 1 night. Here's a few pics!

I pay the same amount as anyone else but it isn't bad each blower came out to 12 bucks I'm just lucky enough to get to see them and grab the stuff in time and all the guys I work with help me out if it's wheel horse it gets put to the side for me and I assure you nothing wheel horse will be shredded as long as I can help it who's knows I get too much and I can help out fellow wheel horse lovers on this awesome forum

some up dates on the db puller

Don't ask me why but I love the "Small Tire" 310-8. The 37 inch deck cuts Great too. The 315-8 GT Classic has 109 hours on it.

So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good? I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together? See that attached photos for a bit more clarity. Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well. Thanks for any help!

These should last us a lifetime with under 200 hrs on each.

Nice job Mike! Looks great! Job well done! You're getting me excited for when I get my engine back.

Sweet . . .fine job

Love the new led lights

Does this help? All the linkage is same as the C-160

Yeah, What's up with "The Ohio State" colors?

This thing is hainted! I went out, took it off the charger and it cranked right up and have been riding my grandkids around for a couple of hours. The only thing now is that it has to be choked, even when hot, to crank, but it cranks right up and runs perfectly. The only thing I can think of is that it had a piece of something in the carb and it finally passed. Thanks for the good info and support. Sprocket, the "some modifications", are that the new carb had no threaded port for the fuel pump, so I just installed it in line and it seems to work fine. I guess I did pay too much for the carb, but couldn't find a cheap replacement for that engine...Oh well, can't go back. Thanks all.

Good find! Is the tank mounted on the fender to allow more room to mover the seat back? I have seen the tank mounted on the fender if a back-hoe is installed on the "D".

Welcome... I had met you before but always nice to run into good people again!

Another week end another update. First the wheels, I had them shot blasted and undercoated, gave them a couple of coats of paint....then scratched it all wrestling the new tyres on. Not a job I would like to do on a regular basis. I am just waiting for the new bearings then i can have a proper drive around I also got the seat finished, back on the metal pan, looks pretty good, only time will tell how it will last.

I use it from time to time, it smells good, too.

I'm NOT a Teccy fan but they are not bad engines. The carbs suck. The aftermarket carbs are good...work well right out if the box. Looks like you paid way too much for your carb as they are available for $20-35 Chinese style. Good luck!

Very nice, my next refresh will be my 69 GT14. I changed out the engine to an 18hp Kohler a few years ago and did a minor clean up at that time.

I sold the Napa IC64SB for 10 years to farmers, tractor shops ect. Used on just about every gas powered piece of equp there was around here. Including home made power plants ect. Should work fine.

I know I already have one of those horses Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Heck Yeah! MikeRJ. The day I was working on the C100's problem, I couldn't read my own hand writing because the pencil drawn schematic was smudged by me over the years. I'll cut/paste this page to my WH folder for additional visual help. Thanks Bro!

These small metal spring clips are designed to dig into the paint and metal wheel, and they will scratch the paint and slightly damage the metal wheel. Wheels in regular mowing-towing use take a very rough beating/bounce and just a friction grip with plastic or rubber just won't hold them on –– for shows or just display, a friction fit would be OK, but I think we will have to accept the "easy-to-fix" damage the clips will cause. With the Chrome Wheel Covers on, no one sees the scratch under it anyway. Also, important to always use all four clips around each Wheel Cover. .

Count me in too ! I'll bring a Wheel Horse and a Generator

The seat has a split right along the top edge, the first time I sat on it I got a soggy back so I took the seat apart and set the squab out in the sun for a few days until the foam had dried. I treated the rust on the pan then set too on a quick fix of the split, I know up front it will not last forever but it will do for now. Pictures: 1) Wet split seat, yuck 2) In bits 3) Mastic tape for the inside of the split 4) Mastic tape cut to shape Once I had got the tape stuck in place I used a spray glue to reattach the foam to the seat skin. 5) Super glue used to stitch the outside of the split 6) Black gaffer tape over the top this extends right to the edge of the seat skin, under where the trim will hold it in place when I have repainted the pan. 7) A quick rub over with boot polish

It sure does not take a whole lot to get the clown car out and going.

I am interested also, sounds like a great idea!! Jim

I have that covered, how bout you bring the gas?

42" SD Oregon 90-643, 48" SD Oregon 90-644 I just recently bought the 90-643's for my 42 SD and im pretty happy with them. I do notice they cut the clippings up a bit more then are not heads and tails over the original blades, probably not worth buying if you are replacing good blades hoping for a better cut. If you are replacing blades that are toast these IMO are a better option over the aftermarket blades like Stens or the like. If you can find NOS wheel horse blades they might be your best bet. I found a NOS set at my local hardware store and they seem to hold the edge much better. The gators had a lot of dings on the cutting edge after just a few mows and the NOS ones had much less after many more mows.

10-digit Kohler serial numbers beginning with 17 were made in 1987. This info is near the front of the Kohler service manuals http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1108-engine-kohler-dating-engines-by-serial-number-1965-95pdf/ 30533 http://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/k181-30533-kohler-k181-engine-k-series-barton-earle-ind-8hp-6kw-specs-30100-30848/ 30536 http://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/k181-30536-kohler-k181-engine-k-series-service-engine-8hp-6kw-specs-30100-30848/ 30538 http://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/k181-30538-kohler-k181-engine-k-series-service-engine-8hp-6kw-specs-30100-30848/ Garry

Glad you have sorted the running issues. As for the Engine colour, it is probably not the original Engine, as in 1972 they sprayed the Tractor partially assembled. So the Engine would have had red paint all over it and the wiring probably (like mine was). If you have an Engine I.D Label on the Shrouds and you can post the Model, Spec and Serial numbers on here, we can give you some info on it. As for Seat adjustment. The Seat was supplied from UK to the WH Belgium Assembly Plant, rather than Import many Seats from the U.S.(some were imported and fitted) . This meant the Pre drilled Fender Seat Pan spacing (for U.S. seat pattern) did not match the UK Bostrum Seat bolt pattern, so were just drilled to fit (a Belgium Bodge). This results in excessive perforation of the Seat panel area and weakens it considerably. You can drill more holes if you wish, but I would advise adding a strengthening plate of 2 or 3 mm on the area as I have done on both of mine. After late 1973, they added Springs between the higher seat position and Fender Panel, as well as increasing the length of the upper Steering Column to compensate for the need for leg room. Just one observation, and you may have already sorted it, but I see a possible trapped leaf under the Cylinder Head Shroud?. Will be worth taking the Shrouds off and ensuring the Cooling Fins are all clear. Regards.

Today I had time to clean the engine and take the carb off for a check over. I couldn't find anything that stood out other than the float seemed a bit high, reset it lower and reassembled it all. It now runs beautifully, no flooding, knocks or phuts. I ran it backward and forward just fine, gears, clutch and brake all seem to work as they should. I have a couple of questions: The engine is grey and looks as though it has always been grey, is this usual? The seat is a bit too close to the steering wheel, I had a look but there don't seem to be any holes at the correct centers further back, were there adapter feet available in the past?

Interesting question, as I have never mowed without a Wheel Horse so I too have nothing to base it on. What I can tell you is when the 416-H is humming along, it is truly relaxing to spend some time in style. I have the recycler on my 42" and take it good and slow. I don't think that I have ever wanted to "rush" to get finished.