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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/08/2015 in all areas
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4 pointsIn a previous post of my Commando 8 redo, I discussed repairing the wallowed out key way in the axle. Instead I replaced the 3 speed with one I had on the shelf. Today while rooting out some potential items for the SHOW, there was that 3 speed. So today I made a stab at the repair. I made a dummy key from a piece of 3/16 brass , welded around it, and ground/filed it down. Only time will tell if the weld will hold up to the torque.
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4 points
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4 pointsI did a little horse tradin with my brother for this 165. It cost me an outboard. She's in real nice mostly original shape. Runs real strong full throttle but runs kinda poopy at lower speeds. Here is what previous owners have done to it trying to get it to run right. Flush tank, new fuel lines, brand new carb, new points, coil and condenser. Compression test is good, check valve clearance good. .Its not carb or points settings, they are spot on. All grounds and connections are good. I know this tractor has left more than a few guys scratchin their heads... I haven't had much time to look into it myself...
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3 pointsWon't ever be this big! This was my Grandfather's place, and the garden that he kept for about 45 years! My 416-H was his, and it tilled this every year from '94 through the '04 season. Thought some of you might like to see this! Pic 1 is the whole property, in pic 2, my Grandparents are standing next to the garden. That area in the middle was the strawberry patch!
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3 pointsThe 704 I bought last year is coming along nice Bob ! I am posting some pics of it. I put my early wheel horse mid-grader blade on it. Craig: Both the tiller pieces are wheel horse original tiller pieces. They must have been used a lot as the center one does have a slight curve to it from use! The back bar is suppose to be straight but I did not correct it. I am posting a pic from June 4, 2015 after cultivating was done.
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3 pointsI think I see a couple of scratches up in the top corner of that 310's hood...
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2 pointsI picked up a Bronco 14 for my son to drive at the show. After he drove it around awhile, it developed a hydraulic leak. I found the pump drive pulley had loosened up and smashed the pump seal. My question is does anyone know the seal number? Can it be changed without taking the pump apart? And does anyone have a drive pulley for sale?...the keyway slot is destroyed on mine. I have been reading up on the forums for sometime now. Just registered as a user so this is my first post. I look forward to being part of the group. Kevin and I are certified Wheelhorse-aholics.
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2 points
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2 pointsIs it just me or has every Wheel Horse collector owned or still owns a 310-8? Just curious, I have my $250 310-8 although it wasn't my first horse.
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2 pointsI did. I got a call from my good friend Fireman this afternoon and he told me about the two. I was on the road so I had him contact seller and set up the pick up. Fireman was at work until tomorrow so he could not make the trip. The owner was nice but man he was out there in the sticks... Anyhow here are the before and after cleaning pics. This guy literally made his own tire chains. Check this out...
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2 pointsWell after finally meeting up with Duane (Baerpath), I got the 3 point hitch for the GT14. After a lot of sanding, sandblasting and painting, I got the majority of it done and mounted. Now I just need to get a few new hydraulic lines and mount the piston and valve. Thanks Again Duane
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1 pointHi All, Recently picked up a machine for my yard work. It's a T607 that's in pretty good shape but I believe the local dealer did a refresh on it at some point. It needs some minor things and general TLC but I'm thrilled it's in the barn now. It has a 7HP Tecumseh with electric start which is confusing because the tag says T607 - not sure what happened there. I'm hoping the dealer can give me some history on the machine. I'll do up some pictures to document the good, bad & ugly. Thanks for looking
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1 pointWell my local dealer came thru again! Great guys. They showed this tractor to me 2 weeks ago and asked if I was interested. It was really hard to start and pretty dirty but there wasn't any rust on it. I said "sure am interested" but I have no way to get it to my house. They said see what you can do. Two weeks go by and I stopped by early this morning to pick up some other parts. I mentioned that I had no luck in getting a trailer. They said we will just have one of the guys throw it on a trailer and he can follow you home. Pay us when you get the cash. We shot some starter fluid in the carb and by some miracle she fired right up! A 1993 520-H with a 48" deck followed me home today. Some faded paint, lots of crud and dried dirt BUT underneath is a rust free awesome hunk of tractor! Hour meter stopped at 658 hrs so I am not really sure what the hours are. New oil filter, tranny filter, fuel filter, air filter are all in store for tomorrow as is a wash. The Onan sounds awesome and doesn't burn oil. I put fresh gas in her and cut a third of my yard with her this evening and the hydro is strong, the motion control lever doesn't need any adjusting and the cut was great. Support your local dealer!
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1 pointThe Big D was at it again today. We were tilling another Atv/bike trail through the forest in Michigan. We were tieing our trail into another. Check it out.
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1 pointSpent a little time this afternoon pulling it apart and cleaning it up. Will do a refurbish on this one. I have one for show so this will be clean with new paint, decals etc. It should come out pretty nice and be very presentable. Here is how it sits now. Tins will be sandblasted the rest will get sanded and primed.
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1 point
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1 pointI wouldn't run it. The only saving grace to that machine is the n.o.s. factor. Its otherwise just a very low use Raider - big deal - not crazy collectible, not crazy rare - just a Raider. Any significant $$ value is then lost in my opinion because it's lost the only "rare" factor it once had. Just my $0.02.
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1 pointLooks good Ed. Should hold up. I had a bad one on my 416 tranny I put in the 310. I had a Machinist friend weld up the bad one and then cut a new one 90 degrees from the damaged one. Pro Bono of course. We do each other favors. See you at the show. Will talk to you about a Briggs part.
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1 pointI'd like to see what somebody that really knows engines has to say. I think the machine or small engine shop is the way to go at this point. I'm thinking there is gas mixed with that oil under the head. No way that engine was going to start with all that laying there. I'm just wondering how expensive it is going to be because it is a Tecky. We have a few threads that tell how to clean all that up without getting stuff in the rings or under the valves...I find them if you don't know where they are. Point gap... 0.020 spark plug gap... 0.030
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointWell mine is not getting fire at all lol, coils gotta be dead
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1 pointI agree with Wallfish. A condenser will sometimes do this after it gets all heated up. (Certainly a lot cheaper than a coil)
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1 pointI just now saw this thread. What great pictures Lane. It looks like they could have been taken when that tractor was new. I trust that we'll be seeing more of the 704. That was my Dad's second new Wheel Horse, right after the Suburban 400. Hopefully one of those will be my next project. Make that.....my next Wheel Horse project.
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1 pointHello, so today i wasted no time taking the engine apart, so got the cooling shroud etc off, but i removed the flywheel nut and then reattached it as i know thats recommended and cant seem to get it off, any help/advice? but on another note i got the head off an this is what i found. james
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1 pointPicked up this one today out of a yard. No numbers. Appears to be a 8 hp kohler? Mounted on a raised engine plate, no cushions. Just wondering as its all there but some of its really rusty. Thanks, Richie
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1 pointTow valve is on left side, here is a bad pic of it...but you can see the location, at least. It is difficult to get to and probably stuck.
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1 pointI would still try to open the tow valve before moving. If it sat awhile and the tow valve hasn't been opened in a good long while, it may be a (edit) to open. Bring tools. You can move it very slowly for a short distance but a great distance it isn't advisable.
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1 pointI seen this a couple of days ago, was trying to wait to pick it up after the show, but after a couple sleepless nights I had to pick it up yesterday. This is really nice , runs and operates great,
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1 pointIf anyone can figure out the running problem, its you. Will be curious to see what you deduce Sherlock. Looks real nice like all your stuff. Glenn
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1 pointI am glad a fellow member got it. love the chains. I've been looking for a 520 for a while now. Its nice out that way. I am 5 mins down the road from there. I picked up the c-81. Baerpath let me know about it this morning but I was out by PA picking up some garden plows.
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1 pointI recently bought one that had been sitting for a while. It rolled easily without turning the tow valve. I thought I was screwed but when I got it home and got it started it functioned fine. Someone on the forum said that after they sit for a while the hydro loses pressure and that is why it rolled. The tow valve is o the drivers left inside the fender and maybe three inches higher than the fender lip. It is about the diameter of a pencil and protrudes about an inch
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1 pointFirst class job, should hold just fine. Thanks for passing along this tip. I think hub set screws that are not tightened properly causes this.
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1 pointWouldn't electrical tape work as well? Especially since the nut should hold the blade in place. Good idea, by the way! I have slop in all my blade spindle interfaces. i will try this next time
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1 point
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1 pointThat looks nice. I would love to support my local Toro dealers but they would have called and said they had a 1993 520-H................we only want 1800 dollars for it but for you, it's only $1700 dollars.
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1 pointhere is part 3.5, the brakes are now finished and since filming the hand brake now works. hopefully i should have my angle drive the the end of the week. callum
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1 pointBeen using Huskee Kevlar belts on Horses for years. Local TSC store, available all day, inexpensive. Never had a problem. Pulley alignment or spindle shaft problem(s). Most likely your pain in the you-know-what.
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1 pointI don't know if the D's have a battery ignition or not, but if so the battery needs to maintain a charge for the unit to run. Others who know will chime in. Coil can be going bad and will act up at running temps. valve gaps need to be adjusted to specs and yes you could have valve seat issues when she warms up. It is possible the valves and valve seats need to be cut so that you have a good intake and exhaust seat. Also sounds like a possible voltage regulator going bad. Double check your connection at the coil. I have seen people hook the two wires up back wards on the positive / negative connections. Not sure if the D is a Kohler or an Onan, but those are some items to check for off the top of my head. The C-175 either has a bad bearing in a mule drive pulley or possibly the center pulley on the deck itself. Do not over tighten the mule drive or you will pre-maturely wear out pully bearings. It's hard to know exactly, but check all the little things first. Remember the mule drive has two pulley's --one will except the v-belt and one will except the back side of the belt. You may already know those things but that's what I have to offer. Maybe someone with more knowledge of those two models will chime in. Good luck!!
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1 pointWell I pressure washed it and this is all that was left. Trust me it was a lot worse than the pictures led on. It would take too much elbow grease and a lot of sheet metal to get this one back to life. However, there are mechanical parts on this one that I was missing on some of my others. Now I have a spare tranny to rebuild,two good back tires and a decent hood should I need one.
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1 pointGenn, I hope you can hang to as many as you can,not easy to replace them I bet. Just got to do what feels right. Good luck, Idaho Jim
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1 pointI'll walk around and throw stuff in the trailer, some Goodyear 26's $200 a set, a flat steering wheel for Racinbob to look at. a D grader blade set of almost new cultivators ( used once) a custom 516 8spd with 3pt. motor for a D Usually when I load I'll find stuff I don't even know I have
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1 pointThe ignition switch could be the cause of both problems. The internal contacts might be bad.
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1 pointI guess I am a Wheel Horse "User" not a collector. All my horses have assigned jobs...some only a couple times a year but they all work and get dirty. I have no use for a trailer queen.
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1 pointI guess that settles it Mike! I will bring the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 instead of the 1958 RJ. I am only going to bring one tractor this year -no trailer hauling this time!
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1 pointI paid $2000 for a 1997 520h with just the deck but the machine was mint and had under 200 hours. The nice thing 520xi comes with all the attachments so I would toss 3000 cash on the table and see what he says. Or 2500 cash and your old wheel horse trade for the 520xi. I think the price is fair since there hard to come by. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
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1 pointI have a 520xi w power steering and a loader. It's got over 1000 hours and performs flawlessly. If this one is in perfect condition I'd say go for it. Still love my 314h and all my accessories. But the old tried and true lil red tractors don't hold a candle to an Xi. Good luck
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1 pointI wonder what the guy was expecting from it? I have a 520Xi with the 52" deck and I love it.
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1 pointThe 3 Point on the GT-14 could be had 2 ways. One using the mid lift cylinder with the long bar that connected it to the 3-point. The down side of this is whatever is attached to the mid mount would move when you wanted to move the 3-point up or down. The extra cylinder has it's own valve and allowed the two lifts to operate independently. I have the manuals for the hydraulic setup. If you want a copy send me a PM with your email. The lift blocks my friend made for me were a favor. They are not that hard to make. A machine shop probably wouldn't charge a lot to make you a set. I think I have a drawing with the dimension somewhere.
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1 pointWell I got all the hydraulics finished and the finally found the 3/4-16 threaded rod. All that's left to do is drill the holes in the threaded rod for the roll pins and cotter pins. Took it out today and tested it to make sure the hydraulics are correct and working. Then she got a nice de-greasing and power wash. I will have it at the meet and greet on Saturday.
