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I seen this a couple of days ago, was trying to wait to pick it up after the show, but after a couple sleepless nights I had to pick it up yesterday. This is really nice , runs and operates great,

Well my local dealer came thru again! Great guys. They showed this tractor to me 2 weeks ago and asked if I was interested. It was really hard to start and pretty dirty but there wasn't any rust on it. I said "sure am interested" but I have no way to get it to my house. They said see what you can do. Two weeks go by and I stopped by early this morning to pick up some other parts. I mentioned that I had no luck in getting a trailer. They said we will just have one of the guys throw it on a trailer and he can follow you home. Pay us when you get the cash. We shot some starter fluid in the carb and by some miracle she fired right up! A 1993 520-H with a 48" deck followed me home today. Some faded paint, lots of crud and dried dirt BUT underneath is a rust free awesome hunk of tractor! Hour meter stopped at 658 hrs so I am not really sure what the hours are. New oil filter, tranny filter, fuel filter, air filter are all in store for tomorrow as is a wash. The Onan sounds awesome and doesn't burn oil. I put fresh gas in her and cut a third of my yard with her this evening and the hydro is strong, the motion control lever doesn't need any adjusting and the cut was great. Support your local dealer!

In a previous post of my Commando 8 redo, I discussed repairing the wallowed out key way in the axle. Instead I replaced the 3 speed with one I had on the shelf. Today while rooting out some potential items for the SHOW, there was that 3 speed. So today I made a stab at the repair. I made a dummy key from a piece of 3/16 brass , welded around it, and ground/filed it down. Only time will tell if the weld will hold up to the torque.

Just picked up this 1963 Chevrolet Corvair with a 4 speed.

So, during the winter, I had my 310-8 set up as a plow tractor. It worked pretty well with no weights (except mine ) and no chains. Just Carlisle All Trail tires. One day, we had about 4 inches, and I was out plowing my driveway, when I started having trouble getting it into gear, and it felt like the brakes were on slightly. I figured maybe the roll pin had broken on the gear shift, allowing the shaft to move and not click the tractor into gear properly, So I had drove it back to where I keep it, and it has sat since then. I did check the roll pin in the shifter though, and it was broken. This transmission, has whined since day one and it also has a broken axle, but its broken under the hub, and the hub holds it together but because of this, I shortly after bought a donor tractor with an 8 pinon, to take the transmission from. Today, I decided to do the swap! Here are some pictures! Hope you enjoy! The following is not supposed to happen. I don't have any idea what happened. I don't understand how it was still working! I'm wayyy too scared to open the transmission Here is the pic of the donor tractor, a 79 C-111 Here is after I finally got the new (cough..old..cough) transmission into the tractor! Once I was done, just because I could, I threw on a plastic fender from a C-161 I got off of craigslist onto the tractor, does anyone else like the look of a plastic fender on a 300, 400, or 500 series? because I can tell you I LOVE it! I really love the look of that fender. These are right after I got the All-Trails mounted back on the 310. Love these tires. Nothing but good things to say about them!

This was my 65 Turbo Corvair. It went pretty good too.

I agree with the 6 to 7 hundred price range.Try it out.Good battery in it? That saves 40 bucks.All good tires that aren't rotted and hold air? Couple hundred if it needs all four.Mower deck in good shape with no rot holes and quiet bearings and idler? We all know what a deck costs to repair.Honestly,I'd offer the guy 7 hundred if all checks out OK.But then again,I'm not a cheapskate or always looking for a gift.

They say necessity is the mother of invention, and I will freely admit that this one falls under the heading of; "dumb things you figure out while restoring old tractors". While pulling the tractor apart I noticed that all four flange bushings (2 for the fender pan pivot point, and 2 for the manual PTO handle {WH P/N: 7879} ) were almost completely gone. I figured they were a common part and I'd buy four to replace them and be done with it. Well, they are an available part ... if you want to pay $10 a piece for them at Toro. While looking for a couple of odds and ends at Tractor Supply, I saw these "1/2" Axle Cap Nuts". I knew the inner diameter was 1/2" to accept the 1/2" rod, I could grind off the cap, and those barbs could be moved or ground off, to make the flange bearings I needed. Plus they are exactly the same OD as the pressed holes in the Dashboard Riser and Fender pivot bracket. They worked like a charm and they're only $1.79 per 2 ea. I have included pictures below. Note the cap is ground off and the tabs pressed back into the body. I held the cap with a pair of needle nose pliers and used my upright belt/disk sander to grind the cap off.

So let's see what every 1 is bringing to the show this year!.as I am doing some last minute cleaning and body work to my 310.

I did a little horse tradin with my brother for this 165. It cost me an outboard. She's in real nice mostly original shape. Runs real strong full throttle but runs kinda poopy at lower speeds. Here is what previous owners have done to it trying to get it to run right. Flush tank, new fuel lines, brand new carb, new points, coil and condenser. Compression test is good, check valve clearance good. .Its not carb or points settings, they are spot on. All grounds and connections are good. I know this tractor has left more than a few guys scratchin their heads... I haven't had much time to look into it myself...

I did. I got a call from my good friend Fireman this afternoon and he told me about the two. I was on the road so I had him contact seller and set up the pick up. Fireman was at work until tomorrow so he could not make the trip. The owner was nice but man he was out there in the sticks... Anyhow here are the before and after cleaning pics. This guy literally made his own tire chains. Check this out...

Somehow got very luck to get a good one. It must be low hours as you can still see some very minor cross hatching and very minimal piston slap. It pulls hill with a hydro, and a 48" SD deck at full speed like there is nothing to it. It does not compare in power however to the 16HP briggs twins, but what I have noticed is that it does not drink that much more fuel than any other big block kohlers. Got the non shaker mount engine which is nice as it will fit wider model years. The shaker mounts seem to be very short lived.

The 16's really do have some nut. Being this one runs rough at idle and slower speeds it will shake your fillings out. Never was a big fan of rubber mounted engines..i think I'm gonna nic name it shake rattle and roll.. But, I do like it!

If I posted my 401, your 702 would look better too. It's Rusty and Crusty but a dependable show cruiser and a 1 pull start engine.

the 20$ ebay carb worked for me mine old carb had a small hole in it that let the float fill up with gas. I would also un bolt the head and decarbon the valves and make sure they are sealing good had this problem on my brothers 657 it would not run right at all and gas keep blowing out the carb it was the intake valve

My first was a 1989 310-8 with a 37" deck, bought for $150.00.

They say necessity is the mother of invention, and I will freely admit that this one falls under the heading of; "dumb things you figure out while restoring old tractors". While pulling the tractor apart I noticed that all four flange bushings (2 for the fender pan pivot point, and 2 for the manual PTO handle {WH P/N: 7879} ) were almost completely gone. I figured they were a common part and I'd buy four to replace them and be done with it. Well, they are an available part ... if you want to pay $10 a piece for them at Toro. While looking for a couple of odds and ends at Tractor Supply, I saw these "1/2" Axle Cap Nuts". I knew the inner diameter was 1/2" to accept the 1/2" rod, I could grind off the cap, and those barbs could be moved or ground off, to make the flange bearings I needed. Plus they are exactly the same OD as the pressed holes in the Dashboard Riser and Fender pivot bracket. They worked like a charm and they're only $1.79 per 2 ea. I have included pictures below. Note the cap is ground off and the tabs pressed back into the body.

The Big D was at it again today. We were tilling another Atv/bike trail through the forest in Michigan. We were tieing our trail into another. Check it out.

Since I woke up at 3:30 am today and could not fall back asleep I went out back around 5:45 and got the 12' Alumacraft cleaned up using steel wool (course and then fine) along with a degreaser. It will be headed up to my in law's place on a lake in upstate NY. It will stay there so when we go up all I have to bring is a small outboard to be able to get out and do some fishing.

commando 8 and i also have a 310-8

Is it just me or has every Wheel Horse collector owned or still owns a 310-8? Just curious, I have my $250 310-8 although it wasn't my first horse.

​I attached it to the donor tractor, and am trying to sell it as a rolling chassis, I'm sure someone could use some of the parts of the tractor, and it's just so much easier to move the tractor around with wheels! I was thinking about splitting the transmission and seeing what happened, but I had already split it once, it whined when I bought the tractor, has a cracked axle, and I was able to tell it had been opened before and at least one axle replaced, I felt like it has probably had its use, and it was time to retire it. I was able to continue driving my 310 after that incident happened, It kinda felt like something was binding on the inside, so I drove it slowly back to its parking spot, but that could have been that dipstick rubbing against the gears. I think the transmission may still be useable, but not too sure, and I'm not advertising it as working. I was having a problem with the roll pin on the shifter. The shifter was coming out of its normal position, so worst case scenario, maybe it got stuck in two gears slightly at the same time, if that's possible and so maybe sheared some gear pieces?

Good job with swap, looks great!

Thanks for your responses. I am following Catmanii's lead and have ordered n electric fuel pump. Great Idea!! My original pump is now working but I have had troubles and long cranking in the past. It "runs" now BUT only with full choke. I'm thinking that maybe the replacement pump is not giving enough gas. Thoughts?

Getting it running is the first step though! Whether it runs bad or good, as long as you can get it running, that's a step in the right direction.

looks good theres one for sale in MO that looks just like that

That 471643 is also the Timken # and is the correct number to look for. Motion Industries has it and I bet NAPA has it also.

Thanks guys, I will have to go look at it and see what he has to say.

If I do it will be on the Tues. before the show. Wed. I'm gone !

That is a Series 1 Lauson Carb (631067a). pages 10 - about 22 in the Service Manual will show you that it is not straight forward to service them. If you wish to go down the Refurbish route, then you will need Repair Kit part number 31840, Probably have to import from the U.S . As I mentioned in your duplicate post on MoM , I have a Boxed NOS brass Float you can have if you need one . If you need someone to rebuild it for you and are not in a real hurry, I will consider it. If you consider it to be too much hassle for you, then just get a Chinacarb as suggested. These original Carbs are not so bad. As I have mentioned, if they are properly serviced and kept clean and tuned, they will start and run perfecly like any other make. Your Call really.

For the Tecumseh engines, you can find those cheap Chinese knock off carbs off Ebay... about $20 US...just plug and play, and they work really good too. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1311.R1.TR2.TRC1.A0.H1.XTecumseh+h60+c.TRS0&_nkw=tecumseh+carburetor+h60&_sacat=0

Hello, so today i took the carb off and took some good pictures for you guys, any advice on cleaning like what do i do etc image is unclear but it reads 3589H2 i beleive 40 james

Air filters fitted, here's one of em. All the pedals are fitted and connected up. Nigel being the good bloke he is spent a while Thursday afternoon cleaning up the welds on the front wheels.... A before and after kinda shot. A close up. As much as I liked the look of the rust on the hood it has to be painted red, so I made a start on the rust clean up.. Not fun! Friday was mostly about changing the front tyres and cleaning up the wheel rims.. If you want to see how I removed the old tyres click on the link below http://myoldmachine....-refit/?p=21837 A cautionary tale for you all... There I was busy cleaning a wheel rim with a sanding wheel in the electric drill. I can't hear anything over the sound of the drill, so I'm in a little world of my own.. I had no idea that Nigel had been behind me for a few min's trying to get my attention.. When he finally did get my attention it made me jump and knock the wheel I was working on off the bench! The wheel hit the concrete floor with a bang and a flash! I thought the flash was the wheel hitting a bit of flint mixed in with the concrete.. Until I looked at the rim.... Hang on.. That's the sort of mark only an electrical arc could make! The flash was not flint, it was the rim cutting through my extension lead!!! Anyway, have a pic of a nice clean wheel rim... It was soon given a couple of coats of red oxide followed my some grey primer before putting the new tyres on. Here's how she looked by the end of Friday.. Not much left to do And to finish this update, a video..

Good job with swap. I do like the look of the plastic fender.

Just in case the younger crowd doesn't understand. Ralph Nader came to prominence in 1965 with the publication of his book Unsafe at Any Speed, a critique of the safety record of American automobile manufacturers in general, and most famously the first-generation Chevrolet Corvair. In 1999, a New York University panel of journalists ranked Unsafe at Any Speed 38th among the top 100 pieces of journalism of the 20th century.

OMG ! Everything works perfect now, since I installed a new battery, why did I wait so long (just trying to be cheap I guess), all I needed was this new battery to make everything work perfect, like it should. Got my garden tilled and 3 others all today, and I've been down since last summer. I sure got a whole lot smarter now, thanks to everyone. Glen

Thats a very cool look Tom!

Nice work Tom... turning into a sea of red there in the background.

​

Pics of boats on grass. What next, pics of your Horses on water? J/k Steve, the boats are beauties, just like the Horses.

Or try a new condenser. I agree with Steve, swap known working parts in there first to prove what the problem is.

I hope to see your raider there, you can always keep it in the building as others said and even if it does get dirty It can't be too big of a deal to clean it up again. I would love to see it in person. If all goes well I will have this one with me.

All I can say is at least neither of us have a Dodge Opps I mean a Ram .

​Sounds like you need a bigger trailer Steve ! Opps forgot you have a duramax ,

I am bringing one of these....

You sure your wife didn't buy that couch for you to be sleeping on? Mine would have. Nice find. Steve

Ok the big day has come, out for some pics.

I think if I were you I would just buy another wh and make one into a narrow front and keep the other original. But be careful 1 turns into 2 pretty soon you have 20.

When properly adjusted, there should not be that much heat. Standard grade-5, 1/4-20 carriage bolts with flat washer, split lock washers, and nuts should work fine. I would remove the housing and clean both the friction side and the brake side. Be sure the clutch material is not glazed by roughing it up a bit with sandpaper. Be sure the bearing is lubricated but not over-lubricated. You don't want grease coming out on to the clutch disc. Re-install the housing and spin it to be sure it runs freely with no drag or unusual noise. Install the brake pad assembly and move it all the way out. Temporarily snug the bolts. Run the tractor with the PTO engaged and disengaged for a short time, then turn it off. It should not be getting hot. When engaging and disengaging the PTO with the brake pad moved out you should have about about 1/8" or more movement. When the PTO is engaged, you should not be able to turn it without turning the crankshaft. When disengaged it should not be touching the clutch plate at all, and spin freely. Then do your adjustments as stated above.

Installed mine today while we had one last warm day. I like the look, just hope they hold up. Time will tell! Only paid about $2.50 for the vinyl runner from Lowes and around $5 for the adhesive. I still have enough to make another pair!