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November 28 2011 - July 23 2026
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/06/2015 in all areas
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3 points
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3 pointsWell my local dealer came thru again! Great guys. They showed this tractor to me 2 weeks ago and asked if I was interested. It was really hard to start and pretty dirty but there wasn't any rust on it. I said "sure am interested" but I have no way to get it to my house. They said see what you can do. Two weeks go by and I stopped by early this morning to pick up some other parts. I mentioned that I had no luck in getting a trailer. They said we will just have one of the guys throw it on a trailer and he can follow you home. Pay us when you get the cash. We shot some starter fluid in the carb and by some miracle she fired right up! A 1993 520-H with a 48" deck followed me home today. Some faded paint, lots of crud and dried dirt BUT underneath is a rust free awesome hunk of tractor! Hour meter stopped at 658 hrs so I am not really sure what the hours are. New oil filter, tranny filter, fuel filter, air filter are all in store for tomorrow as is a wash. The Onan sounds awesome and doesn't burn oil. I put fresh gas in her and cut a third of my yard with her this evening and the hydro is strong, the motion control lever doesn't need any adjusting and the cut was great. Support your local dealer!
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3 pointsPicked it up today, F450 4x4 440hp and 860 lb-ft torque First new vehicle we've ever bought
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3 pointsYou can try squirting some fuel directly into the carb and see if it starts up. Keep the squirt bottle ready and if it starts, keep squirting fuel into it to see if you can keep it running. If you can keep it running by squirting fuel into the carb, then I would THOROUGHLY clean that carb. If the problem persist after that, just buy a $40-$50 replacement carb of ebay. If it doesn't start by doing this, there is something deeper than just a fuel delivery issue.
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3 points
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3 pointsIf anyone runs into the issue of "not enough room to bring something home", they can leave it just up the road at my house! I'll safeguard them until next year! We need a little more "Grey" at the show. what I'm bringing
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2 pointsGreetings from the beautiful Finger Lakes Region in New York State. Through the years I've read and been educated, enjoyed the visual builds, and fondly looked at all the tractors this site has produced. I finally joined this community of Wheel Horse tractor enthusiasts because it was time to do so. In 1986, I brought a used 1974 C-100 tractor from a local WH dealer. When he was alive he told me the important thing to do was change the oil and grease the tractor. This gentleman passed away a few years ago and I can remember some of his conversations about this tractor. Another thing he told me was to never use a water hose to wash the tractor down but always use air pressure to blow it off. The only time I used water was to wash underneath the mower deck. But when I did I always remembered what he said. His company tag is fading away on the seat pan. This tractor isn't much to look but she mows a heck of a yard. My father-in-law passed away 3 years ago and I asked my mother-in-law if I could have his 1967 607 WH and she gave the tractor to me. He bought this brand new from the dealer I mentioned above in 1967.The tractor sat at least 5 years under a tarp before I took ownership of it. I changed the plug, points, condenser, oil and rebuild the carburetor. I found a dead mouse in the cooling fins, man did that thing stink. She slowly came to life and with every improvement I would say,"How I'm doing Fred?" and in my mind I picture him grinning. My wife enjoyed these comments because she's my second in command or my gopher. Somewhere along the line, the engine was replaced with a 8hp Tecumseh engine. I just wanted to share a little personal history about these two Wheel Horses with other people who find a small bit of enjoyment that these machines bring into our daily lives. Kelsey
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2 points
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2 pointsWell nuts! It just couldn't be that simple. My mind is thinking possibly the coil. I've seen them act up when they start getting warm.
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2 pointsThe reason I asked if it was a pull start, is because I had one...and I got tired of pulling the rope. I would take my 857 and put the 2 tractors face to face...lining up the engine pulleys. Figure eight a long fan belt between those pulleys and when pushed apart the running engine will turn over the Tecky...saving your arm. Do you know which kind of carb you have on your engine. Walbro or Tollotson??
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2 pointsSounds like a plugged vent in the gas cap. Loosen the cap and see if that fixes it.
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2 pointsCents all I have is a rice burner Tundra with the 4.7 I Force and a 2 place trailer all I can bring besides goodies is the 704 & The RJ and trailer If I had a diesel I could bring Skonk!
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2 pointsSounds like you need a bigger trailer Steve ! Opps forgot you have a duramax ,
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2 points
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1 point
2,015 downloads
1956-1999 Chart belt 20 pages 1.77MB Belt sizes on the last pages Mistakes in mower belt chart 1967 RL-367 drive belt lists 1587 Correct belt is 1563 1968 5-1361 drive belt lists 8975 Correct belt is 1563 5-1362 drive belt lists 8975 Correct belt is 1563 5-2321 drive belt lists 8975 Correct belt is 1577 replaced by 7430 5-2322 drive belt lists 8975 Correct belt is 1577 replaced by 7430 5-2361 drive belt lists 1587 Correct belt is 1577 replaced by 7430 5-2362 drive belt lists 1587 Correct belt is 1577 replaced by 7430 1969 5-8321 drive belt 8975 (1/2" x 58") [1561 in the belt chart is wrong] 1970 5-8322 drive belt 8975 (1/2" x 58") [104865 in the belt chart is wrong] 1971 5-1000 drive belt 9782 (1/2" x 69") [9783 in the chart is wrong] 1978 85-42MR01 drive belt 108834 is correct as per PSB #272 1979 95-42MR01 drive belt 108834 is correct as per PSB #272 95-42MR02 drive belt 108834 is correct as per PSB #272 1980-1983 05-42MR01 drive belt 108834 is correct as per PSB #272 1983 The 2nd A5-42MS02 in the chart should be A5-48MS02 1984 Model 23-11BP03 tractor shows belt 108491 (1/2" x 67"). Believe it should be 108503 (1/2" x 65.25") for 05-32XS02 mower on the A-111 5-Speed 05-42MS02 should be 05-42MR02 1985 There is one model number missing for every style and size of deck listed. Do a search of the Files for a deck model number if it is not listed in the chart. The belts are listed there. 1991 Model C5-60SC02 not in the chart { (Drive belt 113072 (1/2" x 103") (Spindle belt 112449 (5/8" x 131.25") } 1993 8-32 Rear Engine Rider Recycler model 70042 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 10-32 Rear Engine Rider Recycler model 70080 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 12-32 Rear Engine Rider Recycler model 70120 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 12-32 Rear Engine Rider model 70140 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 1994 10-32 Rear Engine Rider Recycler model 70080 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 12-32 Rear Engine Rider Recycler model 70120 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 10-32e Rear Engine Rider Recycler model 70100 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 12-32e Rear Engine Rider Recycler model 70141 - Mower drive and spindle belt 92-0875 (1/2" x 58" @ Gates) [Belt 47-1420 (1/2" x 65.56") in belt chart is wrong] 1996 78345 42`side discharge lists drive belt 108834 and spindle belt 106125 - Correct drive belt is 102742 and spindle belt 6738 78355 42`recycler lists drive belt 102742 and spindle belt 6738 - Correct drive belt is 108834 and spindle belt 106125 1997 78345 42`side discharge lists drive belt 108834 and spindle belt 106125 - Correct drive belt is 102742 and spindle belt 6738 78355 42`recycler lists drive belt 102742 and spindle belt 6738 - Correct drive belt is 108834 and spindle belt 106125 1998 78345 42`side discharge lists drive belt 108834 and spindle belt 106125 - Correct drive belt is 102742 and spindle belt 6738 78355 42`recycler lists drive belt 102742 and spindle belt 6738 - Correct drive belt is 108834 and spindle belt 106125 1999 78345 42`side discharge lists drive belt 108834 and spindle belt 106125 - Correct drive belt is 102742 and spindle belt 6738 1999 and 2000 79375 36" tiller for 5xi models Front belt 98-8707 or 94-7877 (1/2" x 113.75" found with Google search) Rear belt 98-8706 (1/2" x 92.66" found with Google search)Free
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1 pointMy birthday was in march, but I am willing to still accept this. The last Superbird ever built. https://www.yahoo.com/autos/s/could-plymouth-superbird-ebay-last-ever-built-154442172.html
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1 pointThey say necessity is the mother of invention, and I will freely admit that this one falls under the heading of; "dumb things you figure out while restoring old tractors". While pulling the tractor apart I noticed that all four flange bushings (2 for the fender pan pivot point, and 2 for the manual PTO handle {WH P/N: 7879} ) were almost completely gone. I figured they were a common part and I'd buy four to replace them and be done with it. Well, they are an available part ... if you want to pay $10 a piece for them at Toro. While looking for a couple of odds and ends at Tractor Supply, I saw these "1/2" Axle Cap Nuts". I knew the inner diameter was 1/2" to accept the 1/2" rod, I could grind off the cap, and those barbs could be moved or ground off, to make the flange bearings I needed. Plus they are exactly the same OD as the pressed holes in the Dashboard Riser and Fender pivot bracket. They worked like a charm and they're only $1.79 per 2 ea. I have included pictures below. Note the cap is ground off and the tabs pressed back into the body.
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1 point
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1 pointLooks like normal wear and tear. The rear AGs are a bonus. The deck looks complete and straight all the guards and such. Cuts good to, strong eaton, and fluids just done to,,,,a bonus. Glenn
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1 point
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1 pointI think Duane would drag your current truck, the old one and your old Tahoe chained together to the show and back with that beast! That's one SWEET ride Duane! I think my van would have dragged big Whitey..
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1 pointI have a couple of hubs off of a 5060 that I'm bringing to the show for sale. But if Steve's involved, No hot Chicago Gangsta money!
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1 pointWhen all else fails check the manufacturer's site. That is interesting. Hopefully they haven't changed the tire to be the size of Deestone ags, which run small; and they don't balloon out when mounted.. You might also consider replacing the lugbolts with 7/16"-20 x 1-1/2" Grade 5 bolts and lugnuts. It makes it much easier to mount tires.
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1 point7................oh wait, you meant a part number for the coil. Here's the Kohler numbers 4151921S, 231281S, 231281, 4151921A There might be others as well.
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1 pointIt sounds like it is your coil then. Trade it with a coil from another horse. It has something to do with the coil warming up...kills the engine...starts right up after it cools for a few minutes. Happened on my 857.
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1 pointThanks everyone I found the tow valve but it was very stuck. Fortunately I got my starter replaced while sitting in the field so I was able to drive it back to the barn. I'll have to work on getting the tow valve to turn in case k break down again.
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1 pointYou won't need to cut anything. You just need to get the tub raised. You'll need to buy some longer bolts and either use washers or cut some plate about 1 inch square and start stacking. Make sure you leave enough room between the fenders and the tires to clear anything sticking to your tires in mud like branches, etc.
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1 pointOkay Duane.... I will bring the chain and meet you in the field Thursday night for a pull off
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1 point
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1 pointi was hoping you had flipped the c housing and reported it worked great but since you did all the other hard stuff i just did it and am putting it in tomorrow will report as to the success when its done thanks for the post
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1 pointYup, you found the problem. I'd suggest checking the charging system when you install the new battery.
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1 pointI think Duane would drag your current truck, the old one and your old Tahoe chained together to the show and back with that beast! That's one SWEET ride Duane!
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1 pointHere are some more photos. As you can see there are two main welds to the axle from the hub. I started trying to grind through one. It has broken free completely but it looks like some of the weld might have gotten deeper into the hub, so that will be difficult to grind out. As far as the tools I have, I basically have a grinder, sawzall, drills, sockets, wrenchs and other basic wood working tools. I don't have a torch or plasma cutter or anything. The biggest thing I am missing is a welder. I could possibly get access to one for a bit but it would be a flux core welder and my welding skills are lacking to say the least. At the moment the right side axle does not leak any gear oil. The left side is the only one that leaks and that was after that tractor is warm (30 minutes + running). It doesn't leak when cooled down as far as I can tell. The left axle has very little play in it at all and does not rattle or anything. I was just looking to change the oil seal and the fluid afterwards. My goal was not to tear down the entire transmission if possible. I was wondering if I could cut the oil seal and put it on the axle and try and put a 5 minute epoxy or some sort of glue to hold the seal back together and put it on? Thanks for the help
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1 pointYes it could be related. I'm not sure with Kohler charging systems but on a lot of cars, if the battery voltage is too low, the alternator will not activate.
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1 pointAs bad as that axle looks I don't think it can be saved. You might get the hub off by grinding out that weld, But I doubt you will even get a good hub to fit nice and tight on it.That axle is tore up. Replace the axle and hub or find another trans. Those hubs and axle need a good fit to work properly and give you something you can depend on.
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1 pointBring the 300 series...you don't want to ruin the "new old stockness" of the Raider. Can you imagine how much dust will be all over the Raider and of course a couple thousand fingerprints....I wouldn't take the Raider if I was only able to take one machine. Mike.........
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1 point
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1 pointIf it breaks down on the way Ford better get there quick cause I won't be a happy camper.
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1 pointThe body of the switch is where it gets it's ground. It won't kill unless it is mounted to the grounded dash.
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1 pointGreat idea Bill. I know most kids that drive their tractors around the show think they can drive better then we old folks...and they probably can. But a little bit of Wild Bill Wisdom can't hurt a thing. Can't wait to see you there.
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1 pointAuto parts store will have a zerk fitting tool. It has an easy out device on one end and thread restoration thing on the other with a wrench like thing to put in the new one.
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1 pointWHEN I COME TO THE SHOW,,,,,,I BRING A 10X10 UP FAST TENT,,,,,ABOUT 4 FOLDING CHAIRS....A COOLER FULL OF COLD DRINKS,,,,,SOME VALUABLE LAWN TRACTOR PRICELESS ARTIFACTS,,, A HAT..... AND SHE WILL LOOK IN THE BACK OF MY TRUCK AND ASK....WHO IS GOING WITH YOU ?? I WILL SAY....."NO ONE".....SHE WILL LOOK AT THE 4 CHAIRS AND ASK AGAIN.... "WHO'S GOING.....???? AND I WILL SAY...."JUST ME".......SHE WILL SCRATCH HER HEAD... AND WUNDER ,,,WHAT IS IN MINE..... SHE WONT COME....I'VE STOPPED ASKING,,,3 YEARS NOW.... ITS AMAZING,,,WHAT 2 OR 3 DAYS OF WHAT YOU ENJOY CAN FEEL LIKE....AND ITS EASY JUST PULL UP A CHAIR.......HECK..."STAND" !!!!!!!! BUT,,,,,,,,,,DO COME !!!!! THK YEAH ,,,,THNKYEAH VRYMUCH
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1 pointPricy inner tubes! You might try Miller Tire (http://www.millertire.com/categories/lawn-garden-tires/).
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