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Yeah I know, that ain't work!

I forgot to show what was on the trailer.... I am guessing these tractors have set for about 5-10 years. Batteries were dead and no gas in the tank. It must have evaporated. One had 3 low tires....the other had 4 completely flat tires. It was a bear to get on the trailer. I even took the blades off so I could get them up the ramp easier. Probably going to power wash them tonight after I swap out the wifes new couch. Thad (Ohio)

I'd say the Merc looks much better than the Evinrude. Even though the Merc does have less horse power its got much more appeal. The Evinrude never got a second look out on the water, I have owned these Mercs before and people seem to love them. I'm in the process of working all of my connections in the outboard club to land another Merc that looks just like this one but has 15 more ponies to put on this boat... Eventually I will add a tiller arm to this motor and I will put it on my Crestliner. These Mercs love RPM, almost 6000 for this one and they FLY on a light boat..I have ordered some maintenance parts and hope to have this out soon.

I am currently at an auction that has 2 1994-95 520-H. Both tractors have snow blades and wheel weights and was only used to push snow for a bank. They have extremely low hours. One has 89hrs and the other has 123 hours. Hopefully, I can go home with one....maybe two

For the 2015 Annual Wheel Horse Show I will be instructing a class on safe operating of Wheel Horses for kids 15 years and younger and upon completion the child will receive a red wrist band to show there knowledge . Yeah yeah I know what your thinking ..... just who's gonna teach Wild Bill about driving a Wheel Horse safely ??? What I would like to do is have the kids bring their Wheel Horse to class at the Wheel Horse Show and I will give their tractor a safety inspection, teach the kid about their tractor, show them how to do pretrip inspection (walk around) before operating their tractor and have them drive their tractor through a small obstacle course( uh and no the Cruise Night will not be the obstacle course ...... I was thinking that might be the final exam!). I would like to get all the kids involved with this class to make sure they have a fun and safe time operating their Wheel Horse at home and at the Wheel Horse Show. I believe teaching kids how to spot trouble or handle a emergency situation only pays dividends in their lives. Now those of you who know me have already figured out that Wild Bill has fun involved in this some how ..... just come join in and see ! Wild Bill

That looks like a calendar photo to me, Ken..... Really nice!

Not many people at this auction. Hope its a good sign. Thad

If you need some obstacles, I know a few guys who qualify!

Epilogue: Got the rest of the tractor put back together today including transferring the 3-point hitch back from my other D-200 (PITA job) and it all works!! So, yes it's possible to use the pump and motor from a C-series though I got lucky finding a later transmission with a pump that had the motion shaft that protruded out of each side of the casing. In theory it's been suggested that for the older style with the shaft available on one side only, it should be possible to turn the casing through 180 but I leave that for someone else to have a go at. And here it is out and about again.... By the gate in the distance above the seat in the first pic is where it had died pretty much a year ago now. I still have to dismantle the old pump and motor to find out what went wrong (a job for next winter perhaps) Also I've got the C-121 that I bought as a parts tractor but now has the good transaxle that the pump and motor for the D were taken from so it may be a resto project rather than for parts now (again, next winter maybe). Hope all this has been useful to somebody out there or may be at some point in the future. Thanks to all who have joined in with suggestions, help and encouragement. Appreciated. Andy

John, if u want to come down Wednesday night and stay at my place to cut down on the ride u are welcome. Of course I will need to search your van before we leave to make sure u aren't trying to take some of my inventory... Lol

Ok the big day has come, out for some pics.

Auto parts store will have a zerk fitting tool. It has an easy out device on one end and thread restoration thing on the other with a wrench like thing to put in the new one.

I might be leaving early myself..I might have another stop to make on the way down. I don't want to push my van too hard trying to keep up with the high horsepower diesels...One of them diesel guys likes to relentlessly blow my doors in on every steep hill he comes to.. I like to return the favor out on the water...

Don't recall ever seeing a view of any WHs from above ?, so I thought I'd catch one..............need to trim the Acer again!

Seeing Neil's post with a Mountfield ad from the sixties reminded me that I've been meaning to post some info on the Amnor factory in Belgium for just over a year now. (Sorry folks!) I managed to track down a guy who worked there from 1980-81 and who provided a snapshot of how things were at that time based on some questions I put to him. I was Manufacturing Engineer at Wheel-Horse Amnor N.V. in 1980 and 1981. It was a fast growing company (revenue increased from 10 Mio to 17 Mio and to 25 Mio Euro in 3 successive years) for the markets Europe, Middle east and North Africa and assembled from small to medium size lawn- and garden tractors. This too fast growing caused then severe cash problems and a series of take-overs by other companies started until finally the company became a Toro company which it still is. The plant mainly existed of 3 different assembly area: 1) Pre-paint assembly 2) Pretreatment (degreasing, washing, phosphating, washing, passivation and neutralizing, final washing, drying), wed paint booth, cure oven 3) Final assembly Different models were assembled in different batches (very seldom two models were assembled simultaneously). The sheet metal parts were all imported from the main plant in US, (greased but not painted). (we did not have sheet metal presses to produce the parts ourselves) The engines were Briggs and Straton (US brand) or Kholer (European Brand). The majority of the other parts were also imported from US, except when European distributors were specifically asking for European parts, meeting the metric standards, in stead of the inch standards: e.g. bearings, belts, bolts, shafts. This was to my knowledge the only difference in models. So, using parts from another model as substitution to maintain production, was never done, as far as I know. Design engineering was done completely in US and they produced the ‘first-offs’. We at Geel only started assembling when the new model was full mature. (with exception of 1 ‘walk-behind’ model which was specially and solely designed for Europe by 2 engineers in Geel). (this model was not a big success because too expensive). My thanks go to Marc S in Belgium for sharing this with us. While on the subject does anyone in the US have a copy of 'Horse Power' (Wheel Horse Collectors Club Newsletter) from November 2003. There is an item about the Amnor factory in it. I have a pdf copy but unfortunately when it was scanned a critical page was missed out. I'm hoping that somebody may have collected the newsletters and can help by scanning the article in full for me. Andy

Southern Indiana Antique and Machinery Club 36th Classic Iron Show & Garden Tractor Extranvaganza June 12-14, 2015 Evansville IN Feature: Waterloo; Ford; Fordson; Ferguson Venue: Vanderburgh 4-H Center, 6 miles north on Hwy. 41. Contact: Brad Fromm, 812-983-3300

​This boat didn't have one but I'm looking to add a windshield about a ft. high..

Can we nominate a few adults for the course as well

That could be a possibility Steve but not sure until the last minute. THANK YOU for the offer! Still trying to get that two seater custom done and it's coming down to the wire. I'll probably still be working on it that Wed night. And BTW, search all you want! You'll never find them in the secret compartment. One thing you will find is the chute handle from that 2 stage blower you sold me years ago, it's still in my van. Bought that a loooooong time ago too! Plus I wouldn't take anything before the show, I'll wait until the meet & greet.

so a bigger overview picture that may help. i had a C120 that just shut down one time when plowing 2 houses down the road with ag tires and wheel weights so i had a neighbor pull me back up the road with both rear tires locked up on black top because i have never been able to get my valve loose even to this day. luckily it never seemed to hurt my tractor. i know that 4 wheeler had all he could do to pull me up the road though. if you are in grass or dirt while i don't highly recommend it all the time i would probably just drag it slowly back to were i could work on it. good luck eric j

Sundstrand hydrostatic piston-piston transmission manuals mention that up to 25% of the input energy can be lost as heat! This is a percentage of the HP going through the transmission though i.e. to propel the tractor along. In practice not many HP are needed to move a tractor that's not plowing or rotavating on the flat or gradual inclines so the actual HP lost isn't great. I can mow with my C-120 Auto for an hour or more and the transmission casing gets only warm to touch, not hot, indicating not too much in actual HP is being lost. If you think about it 2 HP lost (as has been mentioned) = 1.5 KW which would make the trans case too hot to touch I think! You mention tall grass, full speed, and up hills so expect more HP to be going through the transmission and the losses to be higher but it's worth checking the temp of the trans case - if its getting too hot to touch then you are losing a lot. The transmission can operate up to 180 F but should not go over 200 F. If the transmission is just warm then your bogging down issue lies elsewhere I think. I've had two bogging down issues the worst case was with the 120 Auto which had an engine that sounded fine, ran fine and didn't smoke but bogged down going uphill mowing. Taking the head off told another story and I ended up rebuilding the engine. The other case was with my C100 which suddenly started bogging down when mowing long grass. This time the issue was with the governor linkage which had slipped introducing slop into its action on the throttle. Good luck - hope there may be something here that helps.

Your horse has that special look, would you object to me using your picture as a screen saver on my computer?

You win some, you loose some. At least my wife got a leather couch for $80! Thad (Ohio)

Glad to hear you have a new starter on the way, That GT-14 is a blast to drive.

Thanks Aldon. I ordered a new starter it will be here tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

We all dream of being with a HOT set of Twins.

I only wanted the sickle mower, but no dice. I had to buy the whole lot to get one item. The good news is that the 1077 and the C-121 are already running. I drove each around the yard once. Here are some pics:

I recall that zerks are 1/4-28 straight thread. 1/8 Pipe thread ones are available but they are not the correct ones.

If the starter is spinning and not turning the engine........remove the starter and clean the bendix.40 some years of dried grease keeps things from working properly.I usually remove the starter and completely disassemble it to clean everything.I check the brushes and grease both bushings.Re assemble and it should be fine.

Try an easy-out on it. Easy-outs have left hand threads and it may come out easily. If that fails, you MAY have to drill it out, then retap to fit a slightly bigger diameter zerk. The zerks are soft and should drill out easily. Just be CERTAIN to get all of the drill chips out of the new thread hole.

Hmmm my '70 GT14 does not have a starter generator (NOT belt driven). Starter engages via a gear to the flywheel... and charges via and internal alternator.... so me thinks you need to chk the wiring to the starter and verify after that if the starter is any good another area of course would be the starter solenoid... you could jump this and/or jump the starter directly via a jumper from the battery same with an external hot wire from the + battery to the alternator. Hope this helps

Thanks everyone for all the help. Nice 1054's, 953's 1054-A's Lane!! Thanks for the pics too. SMS-42A sounds good to me. Now what to put it on when its time 704, 633, 701, 702, 856???hummmmm

I have a 417-A and a 418-A both have Eaton 1100's not sure of the difference engine wise as they are both Kohler's. I also have a 416-A and it's an Onan with the 700 Eaton. My experience has been (right or wrong) any "A" (automatic) model that has hydraulic lift has an Eaton 1100 and the one's with manual lift are Eaton 700's.

On Sunday I installed a Tiny Tach Diesel Tachometer/Hour Meter on my DC-105. This is the new version that has a flash memory and is connected to tractor's battery instead of the old internal battery with a five year life span. I can now install an ammeter in place of the old hour meter. I had originally bought it to install on the 523Dxi but realized that the Carol Stream 10 hp diesel uses an injector pump as well. The inducer (6 mm size) is installed on a straight portion of the fuel line. Because I am still breaking the engine in, I was curious as to the rpm I have been using. The manual recommends to not run at high rpm until twenty hours of use. It has 6-1/2 hrs on the engine so far. Because it counts the pulses with the transducer, I can't add the other six hours like a gas version hour meter though. While breaking the engine in, I try to make three passes up and down my street which take approximately 1/2 hour! Pretty boring at this point and wish there was a youngster around to do it. My dog has trouble with the clutch and can only manage a hydro.

Yes @Dhodge this should be the sickle you need for your 1054. Contact @Lane Ranger if you have more questions about it... Pretty sure he's had one mounted before and likely has pictures to show you important details.

I left a few of the little mares, the big stallions, and some old nags out for some air today. The big old 160 dually and the 953 were a little cranky and wouldn't come out for the pic.

Don't let the pictures fool you Bob, there's a good bit of wrinkling on the frame. Got a little heavy handed, and had my timing a bit wrong between coats. The paint thickness is a bit heavy in a couple of spots, but at least there aren't any sags!

Spent the last several days working on momma's butt buggy. She has been helping quite a bit too! Thanks to our good friend Lane Ralph, a few modifications and our buggy and it is almost "show ready"!

My son kevin bought his first tractor two​ years ago with his own money. He bought a 1975 c160 for $250 and he was only seven years old. That started the addiction. Kevin's first tractor pull photos Fall 2013, Age 7.

Heres my D-180 from 1975, that i have renovated and build some custom "things" on. For example new gastank, seat, lightning and stainless holders for them, 3-point hitch at front and back, hydraulics with 7 functions and its own pump, new bigger Ross steering box, side exhaust systems with mufflers etc. I have also built tools for it as a snowblade, a loader, counterweight and have also a forklift built going on.

1984 C195