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Don't recall ever seeing a view of any WHs from above ?, so I thought I'd catch one..............need to trim the Acer again!

​Someone born in 1972 is likely less than half way thru a 30 year mortgage and is getting ready to put 2 and 1/2 kids thru college. Probably a good time to buy that 40+ year old tractor and get the mid life crisis all tee'd up.

Some how, some way I ended up here. What the heck, going to add one that's only been seen on Junkies!

Spoiler Alert !! If you still believe in Santa Claus, you should stop reading now. Many have said that this is the model that "They should have made". It's built from what I consider the best features from several eras. I give you the 595-HD ... The chassis started out as a C-195: The 520 hood was just a LITTLE short to fit the chassis: The 20hp Onan had to be relocated to keep it centered under the hood louvers: The gear reduction steering had to be stretched a bit also: Stock width wheels? Not exactly... 52" Hi-Vac deck converted from a zero turn model: Size comparision vs a stock 520: It's got to be real... The book says so

All- I would like to invite all my Red Square friends to a meet and greet at my place on Saturday September 19th. I checked the local shows and the Kent show is 1 week after this on Sept. 25th & 26th and Zagary is after that. I plan on having the yard in decent shape (growing grass) by then. Hopefully we have enough time for everyone who wants to attend make arrangements to do so. More to come but please mark the date ! Note- new date is Sept. 19th...

Well, I needed to remove the dash plate but the steering wheel was in the way. It has been soaking with Blaster for 9 months. Still wont budge. Tried a puller with no luck. So I picked the whole tractor up by the steering wheel and tapped around the collar of the wheel .... nothing. Stuck a punch down the end of the shaft and tapped on that. Still nothing. Got out the BFH and after about 20 smacks with that it was off with only minor damage to the wheel. DONE!

I remember thinking much the same thing when I got my first angle grinder - why didn't I buy one of these years ago? A bad boy bigger one followed for cutting larger stuff and then a small air line powered one you can get into awkward places with. Don't skimp on eye protection (we've all been there I guess) - a sleepless night followed by a trip to local hospital casualty dept reinforces this point and just one bit of grit or steel is all it takes! Also, one tiny particle of steel burning as it flies through the air conatins very little energy, thousands hitting the same spot continuously can melt synthetic materials (like a sweater) or set fire to cotton (like jeans). Practice makes perfect when it comes to cutting good straight edges but we all have off days (wel I do) so on critical stuff like cutting sheet I cheat by clamping a length of flat bar to the sheet as a guide - works well. As has already been mentioned use the really thin cut off discs - you may have to shop round to get these, they don't do them in B&Q and let the disc cut at it's own speed - force it and you'll get through lots of discs. Enjoy!

Use good E track and logistic's straps. I have two strips on each trailer so I can tie down two rows or make a triangle when tieing down. My E track is bolted to the frame cross bars. I've used it to haul and tie down for 7 yrs never had a problem It holds a 1600lb minirod in place for me fine Jason leave the end open and you can clean it out with a pressure washer easily

Best way to test for a clogged gas cap vent is as soon as the engine starts to die, open the cap. If the engine keeps running, or starts right up again, you have found the problem.

I have cut lots with an angle grinder. Use the thinnest cutoff wheels you can find for fast cutting. To cut straight down you must ensure you hole the grinder level. To cut straight on a horozontal plane on a flat surface I find it best to make a shallow cut following the line then depending on the thickness being cut either make the final cut at this point or do more shallow cuts gradually going down through the material. With a good grinder and good wheels you can cut very thick metals. Cleat

I had the same issue last fall on my 2003 522xi with 285 hrs. Tested the switch with a continuity meter. It was not working correctly. kind of a spendy part because it wasn't used on many models, but it did the trick. All works now.

A 1965 magazine ad for Wheelhorse 7 hp tractor from the largest WheelHorse dealership in UK

@bmsgaffer Brandon's not getting much response in his Sure-Trac Trailer topic, so I thought I'd separate out the tie down system part of the discussion.... Since proabably at least 75% us have and use trailers pretty regularly, what are you using to tie down? I had a particular interest, as I'm like Brandon and have just gotten a new trailer and am looking at what sort of tie down system (if any) to add to it. Just looking for some discussion points like: Who's using E-track, an alternate system or just tie down to whatever you can? How do you like your system?Would you change it if you could?If using E-track, what do you do in regards to keeping debris out of the track, or is it even a problem? Previously I've only used regular hook straps, left to right, diagonal and front to back. Just tried like hell to make sure the load made it from point A to point B, hooking straps into any solid tie down point I could find on the frame that wouldn't shift in travel.

Got to spend some time with my 953 with my haban sickle mower. Worked great!!

My friend found me a parts tractor. He helped me drag it home and I looked at it closer. I drained the fuel tank and cleaned the carburetor and had it running in about an hour! Motor oil and trans fluid were clean and apparently had been changed not long before it got parked. It's definitely not going to be used for parts!

AAARRGG!! Steering wheels and axle hubs!

​400 in today's money Mike ?....... Just checked back to 1965 and the exchange rate in July 65 was 2.80 USD to the GBP, so the equivalent would be USD 742 at the time. To give it some perspective, when I first started working (1968) my take home earnings were UK£ 4.90 (£4.18s.0d), so I would have to have worked for about 26 months to buy one then !!!.

I didn't know it John....so to the internet I ran and your right. It musta been hit pretty solidly to move it 10 feet! Mike.........

Yea there was not much response... Following this topic, thanks Jason @CasualObserver!

I have a 4.5" grinder that I made a dedicated cutoff tool out of. I always try to mark the material, make a shallow initial cut all the way across (if flat) and I move it back and forth slowly till it starts getting almost through. Once it goes through then I just keep it going. For pipe I use a hose clamp and tighten it down and make my mark along the edge of the clamp(remove it of course before cutting). I cut through the inner wall and then go around the whole thing. Solid steel I just work it from top to bottom till it is almost halfway through and if possible rotate it to finish. Be careful cutting things that have been welded and might have a little tension in it. I have had cuts close in on my disc and stop it. If this happens and damages the disc in anyway, trash it. I have had one come apart. Not pretty. Good luck. Mostly common sense and wear safety glasses and gloves.

I have welded whole chain links to the inside lower corners before and ratchet strap hooks fit right in them. Just got to get the right size chain. I just got a Big Tex trailer and it has tie downs welded to the lower side rails. Think its going to get the chain link treatment also.

The coupon listed in this thread has evidently expired. A new 20% off coupon (any one item) is available June 1st. Probably in store will not allow use on engine but online it appeared to work. I may grab one and retrofit my C161 as I have a spare electric clutch handy. I have a foot control kit I have been holding onto as i wanted a more reliability. My Briggs is attention needy. This engine, clutch and foot controlled hydro should be just the ticket:-)

I use E track two strips the length of the trailer so I can tie down two rows. Best way I've seen or use. I use logistic ratchets to tie down (small ratchet straps used in tractor trailers 8 pullers take 5 minutes to tie down and they will not move. I usually don't have a problem with debris I used it for 7 yr's

The guys that want to work that tractor do have a point, it's all about a workin machine.... I would probaly work it as well..... in a 7/4 parade all decorated up in R/W&B pulling a wagon full of smiling kids throwing candy at other smiling kids, ok.....maybe a couple of round hoods in front and it back of it ..... me personally that is what having a show piece like that is all about. The tractor(s) and the smiles are priceless......

Good luck hunting Chip. I have a couple hundred yards of stone drive, the grader blade looks up to the task. I have the 10 hp Briggs but, putting a 16 hp Briggs (1-cylinder) from a Simplicity in the B-10. With so many rides in my barn, and grandsons, looks like we're dedicating each ride for separate chores; i.e.: wagon towin', mowin', grading, dethatching, whatever. We're workin' on a Pennsylvania Panzer at the same time, busy beavers we are.

chip61, nice trailer but, the heck with that! That Allis Chalmers is lookin' great. Currently I'm workin' on a '66 Allis Chalmers Bee 10. The mechanics are awesome.

I believe the trike setup takes some pretty significant steering modifications to work properly. It would require some serious engineering to make it swappable...

Also, check if your coil is hot. (Not with your bare hand). During one of it's "spats", have tools handy and as soon as it shuts down, pull the spark plug and check your spark. Compare it to the spark you have when it's cold. No spark or a very weak spark can eliminate a fuel issue. Good spark and you can concentrate more on a fuel issue. If you replaced your plug with a Champion, consider looking for the Autolite equivalent. (I won't buy Champions anymore due to issues like you are having.

The ID tag says it's a Davis Hustler trailer, but it looks just like this Snowco trailer, so I'm guessing Davis re-badged it?? Here's a picture of an Allis Chalmers on a Snowco trailer Here's my trailer and Allis Chalmers I got from my parent's neighbors estate-sure looks like the same trailer to me. The neighbor bought the trailer new in 1970, and he used it to transport his ditch digger or this tractor. It's a great little trailer-very well built.

great pics the dually looks like an animal

It is worth exactly what the buyer and seller can agree on and not one cent more.

Looks like you will need a few new parts. The bearing probably seized and caused the damage. Here is what you will need: # 33, 34, 35, 35 #33 - 102872 Shaft #34 - 32120-72 Snap ring (2) #35 - 32120-62 Seal #36 - 109842 Bearing Take the pulley/housing off, pry out the seal, punch the old bearing out from behind, install new bearing, put snap ring on rear end of new pto shaft, insert it from behind, install front snap ring, install new seal. Put it all back together and get back to mowing.

I have a couple C-175's, both with blown engines, so I have been following your project....my local HF will not bring in an engine to their store...says I must order it on line. So, did you order on line and what was total cost?....did you have to pay for shipping>? 500 bucks sounds like alot of money to put on an ole WH but compared to 2K for a new "throwaway mtd" it sounds like a "no brainer"..... Does the engine have holes to mount a manual WH pto? Also my local HF told me that the HF store in Independence, MO has one on display (not for sale)...may have to make a trip and look at it!!

Hoping to go there some day.

With today's gas and hot weather the gas is vaporizing. My solution to this problem is an electric fuel pump with a off and on switch. When it wants to stall turn on the switch it works every time for me.

From a practical standpoint, worth as much as anything else with the same size deck out there today. From a collector standpoint, don't know. I do know it pains me to see this tractor parked in the yard and not getting used.

This is strictly hypothetical so actually is more food for thought. But that said, using the inflation factor on the US dollar, I came up with a price in 2015 for a Raider 14 of approximately $5,736.89. The way I reached this was through a 1964 Wheel Horse price list and using a model 1055 as the example which was $754.95. I then calculated that cost to 1972 which was $1004.15. That was then entered to become 2015 dollars of $5,736.89. If someone has the list price for a Raider 14 that would be great and could actually place a price for "today's dollars." That is way less than the other more sought after Wheel Horse models as in the 420LSE and the low-hour 520-H. The trouble is in today's economy no one pays list price the way it was back in the '70s. I bought four vehicles in the 70's and it wasn't until the fourth in 1978 that I was able to buy for slightly less than the MSRP. Today most consumers would expect close to 20% off so that would be $4589.51. One could buy for example a 2015 Simplicity Broadmoor for that and have more horsepower with a larger deck. Ooh - but there is the retro-look factor though. New Holland found out the hard way on that with the Boomer 8N that looked like a Ford N series. Many languished on dealer lots for longer than expected. Someone who was born in 1972 may like a tractor that is as old as they are. My interest is having a tractor from every decade I've been around. For example, for the year I was born i have a 1951 tractor that cost me $50.00 and then put another $250.00 into. That satisfies my urge.

Thanks for sharing, Mike. I remember the first time I was there in uniform in 1972 (yes, the Coast Guard sails around the world.) I always make a point of visiting the Memorial and the Punch Bowl every time I am in our 50th state. I find it fitting that many of the survivors aboard the USS Arizona on that day make their last wish to be buried with their shipmates.

Fixed mine with an in-line check valve. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221021780029?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Looks like I'll make it this yr.

Here is a cold start of the Predator

I hate rough tractors chrome re dipping is pricey.

Here's mine taken a few years in the planning and 6 weeks to build

416-8 FEL & Hoe

Thanks guys ! Sorry for being scarce, but life has been getting in the way lol. Anyhow, figured I'd post this one up also. Any guesses what this one morphs into? It has big fluid filled tires... ,,,and double hydraulics like a C-195, and a foot operated DCL (from Doc) Electric PTO clutch on a Kohler K341 16hp. If you guessed that it's a C-160 HD, you are correct. Complete 520 chassis with gear reduction steering and a complete mid-1970's C-160 body.

Hey Eldon it's about time you crawled out from under that rock you have been hiding under the last few years Brian

Here's my 4x4 C-101

Look up the 854x4. That's more what you're talking about.

There have been some amazing ones done by one of the members here. These are all Bob Rock originals. (I don't remember seeing a build thread after its reveal)