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I took out all of the 57 series today and to get ready for the show this weekend. This 1257 is about 95% original. With the weather it should be packed show. I did a few things to the 1257 hear are a couple picks. Excuse the pink tones it is the camera it is getting old. thanks for looking Gary B.....

Wired it up... then, put some fire in the hole here today. Was still too bright outside... so I had to drag it back in the basement to get the full effect.

Well, since I had to tow you in TWICE over the past yr. I figured you owed me one.. This is one of those laugh now cry later type of deals for you, I can almost GUARANTEE it that you will be at the end of my line sometime real soon. KARMA. I might even pretend not to see you waving me over just to make you suffer a little.. I'll make sure to always have my camera handy for that special Kodak moment.. Now, the motor that konked out is a 1926 Johnson 2hp. I completely went thru this motor over the winter and then I shined it up. It hadn't been run in decades... She started easy and ran very well but when I shut it off to make some adjustments I couldn't get it refired.. It happens, I always expect to have to do additional work after taking out a motor for the first time in so long but for a motor that is 90 yrs. old I was very pleased, matter of fact I will be taking it back out in a few days...

a little - yes. insert the innermost shift rod drop in a detent ball, the shift stop spring and the shift pin move the shift rod until the ball, spring and pin are all shifted into a detent in the 1st shift rod. position the trans case so the shift spring is pointing upward and drop the 2nd detent ball onto the spring now the challenging part - and very few get this right the first time insert a long allen wrench thru the outer access hole in the trans case, and compress the detent / spring / pin combo while pushing down on the 2nd detent ball with the allen wrench, slide the 2nd shifter linkage into the trans case so the leading edge of the shift linkage slides over part of the 2nd detent ball - capturing the detent ball under the shift rod once the detent is "captured" under the shift linkage, remove the allen wrench and slide the 2nd shift linkage completely into the case until the 2nd detent ball clicks into the detent on the 2nd shift rod. if you are successful - great. If not there will be weeping and gnashing of teeth. If the insertion of the 2nd shift rod does not properly capture the 2nd detent ball, the stiff spring pressure may cause the spring and ball to fly across the room. It may be helpful to keep a rag on top of the case as you remove the allen wrench. This will help prevent the spring and ball from jumping out of the case and rolling underneath your workbench - never to bee seen again.

Hi all, it suddenly occurred to me that i haven't actually posted anything in this section of the forum, so I though i would share my horse with you as i have only done so on the restorations modifications and customisations board. The is my first horse and its a 1972 A-800 ranger, I am currently in the process of customisation called 'project agri-800', what I'm doing here is turning a lawn tractor into a garden tractor. lights, stack, Uni-drive, front spindle to 4 lug hub and agri style rear tyres are some of the modifications I have either done or doing to get there. the main modification is obviously getting rid of the peerless tranny and fitting a Uni-drive i and in the process of doing that now. once i have finished this project I will have a one-of-a-kind heavy duty garden tractor that I will make various implements for such as a harrow, reel mower and various other bits. anyway, here are some videos from my youtube channel, i was only driving around the small garden here but the tractor will be used at the allotment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2mjMdbKd3U&spfreload=10 haha, opening line in this video "bet you didn't know i had one of these", it was one of my first videos of a wheel horse on my previously stationary engine and workshop related channel, I would hope being a red square member would suggest i own a WH!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpqluu0pfY0&spfreload=10 and some pictures for you all: thanks for looking, I hope I might have let some of you see the A series in a different light, callum

What happens to an inexpensive (or free) multimeter when you hook it up to measure higher voltages and you have the meter on the wrong measurement function? Fast forward to 5:11 on the video and find out. Also note the same test is being performed on a Fluke multimeter as the speaker is holding it in his hand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEoazQ1zuUM

KEN, HE WAS NOT TOWIHG YOU, YOU WERE PUSHING HIM WITH A STIF ROPE.

Well we had a really good day...... at least I did ... Me towing Ken B in with my 1929 Johnson 3hp (that I bought from Ken at the meet last year). Th eguy who took these photos was kind enough to post on the antique outboard site... thought I would share too

In a previous thread, several folks asked me how I painted my rims with tires already mounted. I recently did another set, so I illustrated the process as I did it. Typically, I like to paint the rims after they are mounted anyways, because inevitably when you have tires mounted on painted rims you’ll always scratch or nick them somewhere. I like to get the rims all cleaned up, blasted and primed, then mount my tires. Here’s my process: 1) Rims were sandblasted and primed with self-etching primer. Tires and tubes were mounted. Everything was wiped down with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover prior to taping. 2) Using blue 3M tape, I go all the way around the rim slipping the tape between the rubber and rim occasionally tucking it tight with a very small standard screwdriver. 3) Then I create a wider tape ring a few inches out from the rim lip. 4) Slide the whole thing into a kitchen garbage bag. 5) Cut a hole in the bag revealing your tape ring below. 6) Tape the bag to your tape ring previously created on the tire. 7) For silver rims, I like Eastwood Silver Argent rally wheel paint and I use a Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear. http://www.eastwood.com/silver-argent-rally-wheel-paint-set.html 8) I wipe the rims down a few more times with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover, blow them off with the gun, then shoot two coats of color and two coats of clear. I find that the Rust-Oleum clear holds a much better shine if you don’t let it set long between coats. As soon as it flashes, hit it with round 2. I do all four coats in about 20 minutes.

my first horse was a 657 (that I kinda stole from the hubbie) but the first one I bought for myself was an early 68 charger 12. after that there are alot more...love them horses!!!

I really like the way the two piece cultivator works on the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with the Hein-Werner hydraulic pump. It tool a fraction of the time to cultivator the vegetable garden from what a small tiller would do !

This is why reading Craigs list is dangerous. I find another cart yesterday. Just like the one I bought a few months back. This one lead a easy life and lived in a garage. The owner took the dump handle off and bolted the cart and hitch together. He just used it to haul. The bed is very nice. No deep rust pits. Over the years he painted the rims to match his 310-8 wheel horse. I just hit it with the hose to get most of the dust off. The shape is pretty darn good. Needless to say I feel like I struck gold. The best part. Less than a mile away from home. When I pulled in the driveway to smuggle it in. The Mrs. Pulled in right before me. Suprisingly. No reprecussions. Enjoy the pics. Glenn

Here are some Pic's I took at the little guy's show Winner of the plowing competition Garrett Brown on his 856 our camp Thursday night Brian

Took some time today to shine up the 55' Crestliner and load up 4 outboards to run at our first antique outboard meet tomorrow.

Part of the "Honey Do" list was to remove a large 12ft Forsythia bush. Dug a trench around it and chained it up to the loader bucket.

...thought I'd sneak up on the clean up with a little test patch first, to see if my idea would work. Started on the lip that slides into the frame, progressed to a corner... then I did the logo in the center, and finally the whole lens. I'm thinking I hit a home run with the first product I tried(pictured)... first shot shows the before and after.

Ok,,,,the lips are 1 1/4 inches and taper to about 1 1/2....the front lip extends about 1 inch....the rear is 3/4......heck they might be the same......they are HEAVY.....

When you pass thru St. Louis feel free to drop off that classic gt and pick up a load of projects from me. Travel safe. steve

GLENN,,,,,,,,,,,I CHECKED MY TRUCK.....MEASURED TWICE.... YOU DID SAY YOU ARE BRING IT TO THE SHOW......I THINK WELL....................I WILL HAVE ROOM FOR IT...... AND DONT WORRY.... MY MISS'S WONT MIND./.... I DON'T HAVE ONE YET.!!!! LOOLLOLOLO

Bud Andrews has some awesome homemade mufflers that look & sound great too. He was thinking about making some extra and bringing them to the show. If he has them I'm buying one. You can find him on FB

​you was right, I found ground cable broke into. Replaced and started and ran fine THANKS for your help

that makes perfect sense. I'm sure i'll feel some sort of "hitch" or "click" in the gear sets through the input pulley?

Managed to get a bit further over the weekend but as I've also got the first military vehicle show coming up next weekend so time continues to be tight for my tractor project. I was glad a took a pic of the motion control arrangement before dismantling - it would have been more difficult to reassemble without given the weeks that have passed since. Everything seems to move as it should which is encouraging, ​The bulletins Paul drew my attention to can be found here: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=57310 and here: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=57311 The slotting carried out when my tractor was previously repaired can be seen below. With the washer I added the slotting need not have gone so far back in the panel as it did at that time. The upper panel that overlaps this had also been slotted. When remounting the motor on the C-121 part of this sort of combined C & D project, I'd found using two taps as guide pins helped hold the gasket in place and also the motor itself while securing the top mounting bolts. It would have worked for the D-200 had this one not been fitted with turning brakes where the disc gets in the way of offering the motor up to the guide pins in its correct vertical orientation. I had to remove the tap at the rear so that the motor could be tilted forwards to get it onto the remaining guide then bring it upright again once the motor was clear of the disc. having one guide was certainly still a help though. So with the strainer that's complete, a new motor gasket, and the motor bolted on the manifold was finally attached to the motor with new o-rings and backup rings. The motor is from a later type transmission with drum and brake band parking break. It would be essential for my other later D-200 but in this case the transmission has the parking brake pawl on the other side of the casing. I'd have left the drum mounted on the motor were it not for the fact that it is not possible to mount the brake caliper back on the axle with it still in place. I've got to find something slide over the axle to keep dirt and wet away from the seal. Suggestions welcomed as I haven't thought that far ahead yet. I'm not going the reconnect the hoses (top left) from the damper valves to the motor until after I've had a chance to run the system to check it out. The motor appears to have the two ports for this underneath which have blanking plugs in them at present. From previous experience there's only a little oil lost when when you disconnect the hoses with a full transmission of oil. With a show coming up to prepare for, filling with oil and running the engine etc will most likely have to wait till next week.

Actually, just turning the wheels is not going to tell you to much. Put the rear end on blocks. With the trans in neutral spin one of the tires, the other should go in the opposite direction. You can also keep one of the tires from turning (by holding it) and turn the other tire in either direction. Do this on both sides...this tells you that your differential is OK. Now take off the belt guard and belt. You want to put it in each gear plus the hi/low (8 speeds) and turn the input pulley in a counter-clockwise direction. You can tell by the feel if every thing is OK. Everything should turn freely just be doing it by hand. This will tell you if anything in the drive train is suspect. Trying to turn the tires while it is in gear is much like trying to start and old 3 speed car by jumping the clutch...the best way is by turning the input shaft by hand...or by using a long fan belt and another tractor and/or an electric motor. If it has a dip stick, see what the oil looks like...if everything else turned freely and felt OK, I would not worry about any milky oil at this point. If no dip stick, stick a rod down through on of the top holes in the trans...usually where the seat and fenders bolt on.

I'll probably go out for the day on saturday - weather should be great,

You can buy it from McMaster & Carr, but one piece (12" long) and shipping would cost more than a new brake pad assembly. PM me with your address and I will send you a piece the size you need. I get several "left-overs" from my brake linings when I cut them.

I do like that set up... are both those cultivators WH pieces Lane?

The holes are 11/2 inches in diameter....the bolt slots are 1/2 inch wide....10 inches between them....

Mike, I put an International Cub muffler on my WH 953 many years ago and I just love the sound I'm sure they can be found on E-bay. Enjoy I,m bringing it to the big show in June. See ya, Bye, Ted

Check your switch. If it's still putting 12v to the coil while in the stop position it will continue to run. Carbon build up can sometimes stay hot enough to trigger ignition too.

The balls are 1/4" I bought a hundred from McMaster. I refuse to spend my life trying to find them when they fly out and roll away

Well....I hope this helps you a bit.....the lip is 1 inch high.....guess they weigh about 60 lbs....maybe more/less..... 2 inches deep at the access holes and bolt holes...bolt holes are wide enough to secure a carriage bolt 12 inches across and fit inside the tire circle.......

My next project Craig! That is where my "free" time will go! A 704 I bought last year. Just going to put a 7 HP recoil start Kohler and go with it!

I would say for use in a low voltage / low power scenario, the cheapies are no problem. Will they be damaged if used on the wrong function (measuring voltage on the ohms scale)? Yes. They will not explode and catch fire if you are just measuring 12 volt or 24 volt battery circuits. I would not measure any "mains" i.e AC wall socket 120 or 220 VAC circuits with them.

Anybody who uses a multimeter should learn what the cat rating means before use. There would be less injuries due to incorrect use. Good video.

I think I may have stirred up the hornet's nest.. Ken has a few quality pics of my boat behind his I am sure.

I may have been the cause of Mike's featured tractor snafu. We were talking on the phone the other day and I mentioned that the '73 was the feature tractor. Must have been a brain cramp, old age, drugs, or a combination of all three. Sorry Mike. Now you can relax and take your time. No deadline looming anymore.

Couldn't help noticing where you are from.I lived in Wooster until moving south in 1999.Spent many hours at Pleasant Hill Dam and dirt tracked raced at Lakeville Speedway and Buckeye(Wayne County) Speedway.Still have family in Lodi and West Salem.Wish you had some d-250 parts I could come up and get.

C'mon Steve... flip the switch.

This past weekend cousin Timbo and Toddbo came over and we continued to work on the lights in the barn and outside. Maybe one more weekend and we should be pretty close to being done. Got the sign hung on the wall over the main door. I made the frame out of 1x rough cut shiplap siding. It comes off pretty easy to get at the lights behind the sign. Here are a few pics.

Well, considering this one was the worst one of the two sides Don... even with fighting the unexpected hassle with the hazing...over all, I'd say my brake fluid experiment did a pretty good job.

So today, I decided to tackle the second side... difference being I did it outside this time. Everything was the same, started off using up the last of the old bottle of fluid I used on the first side. This was an old bottle I had opened some time in the past, probably a couple years old, at least...and lasted just long enough to do maybe half of the second side. At this point, out comes fresh, new, unopened bottle to finish it up. Not noticing any difference in the process except maybe a little bit more resistance while wiping down the side, before turning the cloth. Finished it off with a cold water bath with some dish soap...immediately noticed a slight bit of clouding/hazing, while rinsing. Nothing major yet. Once I set the sign up next to the shed, the hazing really took off. I'm thinking that doing this outside, even though I was in the shaded back yard, was 85 degrees here today, and probably the new bottle contributed too. Was ultimately able to save it from a total disaster though(broke out the trusty ol' can of Mothers again)...did some intense polishing by hand. I was fighting the urge to use a buffer on it....decided to just take my time, and do it by hand while supporting the back side of the small area I was working on with my other hand. Very happy with the final outcome now...though a little more stressful, and a tad more labor intensive then the first side. Thought it would be remiss of me not to share this experience with the forum...as my method my not be advisable for the faint of heart. I've included some close ups to show the intensity of the hazing, a few of the picts include both areas, before and after the polishing process. Finally, a few close ups to show the power of Mothers to pull off the save, and ultimately restore a brilliant, reflective shine.

I had planned to be there but my work trip was extended to 3 weeks and I don't get home till late this Friday.....have fun guys! Mike.....

I PLAN TO GO ON SATURDAY WITH MY 1054 DIESEL WHEEL HORSE. RUSS

Yeah...then what happens when someone... while not paying attention, runs into the back of your cart? That scenario just ain't going to end well.

This topic has been around the horn a few times, only in different shades of "grey". Chuck - while the L110 probably is a good quality "lawn" mower, I think the topic was "GT". Garden Tractor..... I am sure an L110 would fail miserably being used as a garden tractor. It's just the world of today we live in when it comes to what we see that is mfgd. today. Small gardens, maybe even no gardens, has diminished the need for a mower that is also used as the garden tractor. Additionally these 3 items come into play: Economical - the mowers of today use half the gas they use to burn on the same sized lawns. EPA standards Cheaper - Customer driven, "I want to pay less" and still have a John Deere! Faster - Meaning the cut of the lawn. "I don't want to spend 2hrs. on my lawn." As someone stated in the thread ZTR's are dominating the market. Put all 3 of these together, plus my opinion, on 1 more item: Laziness - The youth of today would faint if they had to go out and do some "real work". I am sure there are members in here that have raised their children to understand that manual labor will not kill you. But for the rest of the world, Well - just look at how many info-mercials we have now compared to 15 years ago, on how to lose weight, cut calories, get into shape... RMC

It's funny knowing that any of us seeing that sign are all thinking the same thing, "Man I would like to have that sign"!!!! ,

Glenn ... NO I didn't "LICK" my hood, LOL! I did have some louvers punched however .. looks cool and will help with the heat!!

Finally got the grill finished up and shined. Looks weird with the reflections!!! Slow but sure!!!