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I took out all of the 57 series today and to get ready for the show this weekend. This 1257 is about 95% original. With the weather it should be packed show. I did a few things to the 1257 hear are a couple picks. Excuse the pink tones it is the camera it is getting old. thanks for looking Gary B.....

Wired it up... then, put some fire in the hole here today. Was still too bright outside... so I had to drag it back in the basement to get the full effect.

Well, since I had to tow you in TWICE over the past yr. I figured you owed me one.. This is one of those laugh now cry later type of deals for you, I can almost GUARANTEE it that you will be at the end of my line sometime real soon. KARMA. I might even pretend not to see you waving me over just to make you suffer a little.. I'll make sure to always have my camera handy for that special Kodak moment.. Now, the motor that konked out is a 1926 Johnson 2hp. I completely went thru this motor over the winter and then I shined it up. It hadn't been run in decades... She started easy and ran very well but when I shut it off to make some adjustments I couldn't get it refired.. It happens, I always expect to have to do additional work after taking out a motor for the first time in so long but for a motor that is 90 yrs. old I was very pleased, matter of fact I will be taking it back out in a few days...

a little - yes. insert the innermost shift rod drop in a detent ball, the shift stop spring and the shift pin move the shift rod until the ball, spring and pin are all shifted into a detent in the 1st shift rod. position the trans case so the shift spring is pointing upward and drop the 2nd detent ball onto the spring now the challenging part - and very few get this right the first time insert a long allen wrench thru the outer access hole in the trans case, and compress the detent / spring / pin combo while pushing down on the 2nd detent ball with the allen wrench, slide the 2nd shifter linkage into the trans case so the leading edge of the shift linkage slides over part of the 2nd detent ball - capturing the detent ball under the shift rod once the detent is "captured" under the shift linkage, remove the allen wrench and slide the 2nd shift linkage completely into the case until the 2nd detent ball clicks into the detent on the 2nd shift rod. if you are successful - great. If not there will be weeping and gnashing of teeth. If the insertion of the 2nd shift rod does not properly capture the 2nd detent ball, the stiff spring pressure may cause the spring and ball to fly across the room. It may be helpful to keep a rag on top of the case as you remove the allen wrench. This will help prevent the spring and ball from jumping out of the case and rolling underneath your workbench - never to bee seen again.

Hi all, it suddenly occurred to me that i haven't actually posted anything in this section of the forum, so I though i would share my horse with you as i have only done so on the restorations modifications and customisations board. The is my first horse and its a 1972 A-800 ranger, I am currently in the process of customisation called 'project agri-800', what I'm doing here is turning a lawn tractor into a garden tractor. lights, stack, Uni-drive, front spindle to 4 lug hub and agri style rear tyres are some of the modifications I have either done or doing to get there. the main modification is obviously getting rid of the peerless tranny and fitting a Uni-drive i and in the process of doing that now. once i have finished this project I will have a one-of-a-kind heavy duty garden tractor that I will make various implements for such as a harrow, reel mower and various other bits. anyway, here are some videos from my youtube channel, i was only driving around the small garden here but the tractor will be used at the allotment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2mjMdbKd3U&spfreload=10 haha, opening line in this video "bet you didn't know i had one of these", it was one of my first videos of a wheel horse on my previously stationary engine and workshop related channel, I would hope being a red square member would suggest i own a WH!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpqluu0pfY0&spfreload=10 and some pictures for you all: thanks for looking, I hope I might have let some of you see the A series in a different light, callum

What happens to an inexpensive (or free) multimeter when you hook it up to measure higher voltages and you have the meter on the wrong measurement function? Fast forward to 5:11 on the video and find out. Also note the same test is being performed on a Fluke multimeter as the speaker is holding it in his hand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEoazQ1zuUM

KEN, HE WAS NOT TOWIHG YOU, YOU WERE PUSHING HIM WITH A STIF ROPE.

Well we had a really good day...... at least I did ... Me towing Ken B in with my 1929 Johnson 3hp (that I bought from Ken at the meet last year). Th eguy who took these photos was kind enough to post on the antique outboard site... thought I would share too

In a previous thread, several folks asked me how I painted my rims with tires already mounted. I recently did another set, so I illustrated the process as I did it. Typically, I like to paint the rims after they are mounted anyways, because inevitably when you have tires mounted on painted rims you’ll always scratch or nick them somewhere. I like to get the rims all cleaned up, blasted and primed, then mount my tires. Here’s my process: 1) Rims were sandblasted and primed with self-etching primer. Tires and tubes were mounted. Everything was wiped down with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover prior to taping. 2) Using blue 3M tape, I go all the way around the rim slipping the tape between the rubber and rim occasionally tucking it tight with a very small standard screwdriver. 3) Then I create a wider tape ring a few inches out from the rim lip. 4) Slide the whole thing into a kitchen garbage bag. 5) Cut a hole in the bag revealing your tape ring below. 6) Tape the bag to your tape ring previously created on the tire. 7) For silver rims, I like Eastwood Silver Argent rally wheel paint and I use a Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear. http://www.eastwood.com/silver-argent-rally-wheel-paint-set.html 8) I wipe the rims down a few more times with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover, blow them off with the gun, then shoot two coats of color and two coats of clear. I find that the Rust-Oleum clear holds a much better shine if you don’t let it set long between coats. As soon as it flashes, hit it with round 2. I do all four coats in about 20 minutes.

my first horse was a 657 (that I kinda stole from the hubbie) but the first one I bought for myself was an early 68 charger 12. after that there are alot more...love them horses!!!

I really like the way the two piece cultivator works on the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with the Hein-Werner hydraulic pump. It tool a fraction of the time to cultivator the vegetable garden from what a small tiller would do !

This is why reading Craigs list is dangerous. I find another cart yesterday. Just like the one I bought a few months back. This one lead a easy life and lived in a garage. The owner took the dump handle off and bolted the cart and hitch together. He just used it to haul. The bed is very nice. No deep rust pits. Over the years he painted the rims to match his 310-8 wheel horse. I just hit it with the hose to get most of the dust off. The shape is pretty darn good. Needless to say I feel like I struck gold. The best part. Less than a mile away from home. When I pulled in the driveway to smuggle it in. The Mrs. Pulled in right before me. Suprisingly. No reprecussions. Enjoy the pics. Glenn

Here are some Pic's I took at the little guy's show Winner of the plowing competition Garrett Brown on his 856 our camp Thursday night Brian

Took some time today to shine up the 55' Crestliner and load up 4 outboards to run at our first antique outboard meet tomorrow.

Picked this little gem up today my very first rj58. Runs good trans feels good. Couple of questions, how do you check the trans oil? Also are the wheel horse decals oe? And is the clinton the right motor or should it be a k91 kohler?

Ok,,,,the lips are 1 1/4 inches and taper to about 1 1/2....the front lip extends about 1 inch....the rear is 3/4......heck they might be the same......they are HEAVY.....

GLENN,,,,,,,,,,,I CHECKED MY TRUCK.....MEASURED TWICE.... YOU DID SAY YOU ARE BRING IT TO THE SHOW......I THINK WELL....................I WILL HAVE ROOM FOR IT...... AND DONT WORRY.... MY MISS'S WONT MIND./.... I DON'T HAVE ONE YET.!!!! LOOLLOLOLO

Would make a good head board. Night lite!

Have been watching them feeding themselves recently too.

​you was right, I found ground cable broke into. Replaced and started and ran fine THANKS for your help

That's OK, Steve... I'll go first.

Managed to get a bit further over the weekend but as I've also got the first military vehicle show coming up next weekend so time continues to be tight for my tractor project. I was glad a took a pic of the motion control arrangement before dismantling - it would have been more difficult to reassemble without given the weeks that have passed since. Everything seems to move as it should which is encouraging, ​The bulletins Paul drew my attention to can be found here: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=57310 and here: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=57311 The slotting carried out when my tractor was previously repaired can be seen below. With the washer I added the slotting need not have gone so far back in the panel as it did at that time. The upper panel that overlaps this had also been slotted. When remounting the motor on the C-121 part of this sort of combined C & D project, I'd found using two taps as guide pins helped hold the gasket in place and also the motor itself while securing the top mounting bolts. It would have worked for the D-200 had this one not been fitted with turning brakes where the disc gets in the way of offering the motor up to the guide pins in its correct vertical orientation. I had to remove the tap at the rear so that the motor could be tilted forwards to get it onto the remaining guide then bring it upright again once the motor was clear of the disc. having one guide was certainly still a help though. So with the strainer that's complete, a new motor gasket, and the motor bolted on the manifold was finally attached to the motor with new o-rings and backup rings. The motor is from a later type transmission with drum and brake band parking break. It would be essential for my other later D-200 but in this case the transmission has the parking brake pawl on the other side of the casing. I'd have left the drum mounted on the motor were it not for the fact that it is not possible to mount the brake caliper back on the axle with it still in place. I've got to find something slide over the axle to keep dirt and wet away from the seal. Suggestions welcomed as I haven't thought that far ahead yet. I'm not going the reconnect the hoses (top left) from the damper valves to the motor until after I've had a chance to run the system to check it out. The motor appears to have the two ports for this underneath which have blanking plugs in them at present. From previous experience there's only a little oil lost when when you disconnect the hoses with a full transmission of oil. With a show coming up to prepare for, filling with oil and running the engine etc will most likely have to wait till next week.

I'll probably go out for the day on saturday - weather should be great,

Just put gas in her today and she fired right up. It's been a labor of love, when I first got her everything was shot.Thanks to everyone on the forum for all the help. Looking forward to the next round hood project.

Mike, I put an International Cub muffler on my WH 953 many years ago and I just love the sound I'm sure they can be found on E-bay. Enjoy I,m bringing it to the big show in June. See ya, Bye, Ted

Check your switch. If it's still putting 12v to the coil while in the stop position it will continue to run. Carbon build up can sometimes stay hot enough to trigger ignition too.

More pics of the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with the two piece cultivator set before she went to work!

My next project Craig! That is where my "free" time will go! A 704 I bought last year. Just going to put a 7 HP recoil start Kohler and go with it!

I plan to be there around 6;30 am. see you all there.

I would say for use in a low voltage / low power scenario, the cheapies are no problem. Will they be damaged if used on the wrong function (measuring voltage on the ohms scale)? Yes. They will not explode and catch fire if you are just measuring 12 volt or 24 volt battery circuits. I would not measure any "mains" i.e AC wall socket 120 or 220 VAC circuits with them.

Anybody who uses a multimeter should learn what the cat rating means before use. There would be less injuries due to incorrect use. Good video.

The weeding is gonna be too easy... what will you be doing with all your free time now Lane?

Yupper! My cradled KT17 in the C-175 decided to ground through the PTO lever/rod. I smelled something hot and it wasn't running right and I touched that rod and felt like I held a lit cigarette. Cleaned the ground wire up and it was fine! They will do crazy things!

Hi Bob, It was good to see you again too, Jim figured it out tonight, it actually turned out to be the condensor, he had it running and finally got to take it for a ride, I was happy for him, he should be bringing it out to the big show Karen

For front tires, grab a 2 or 3 square foot section of rubber pond liner. Cut out a round hole in the center of the rubber mat. Size the hole about 60 - 70% of the rim diameter. Detach the tire from the rim bead, stretch the rubber over the rim and it will both self seal to the inside of the rim and drape over the tire and protect it from overspray. Rear tires require a larger section of pond liner. Once the paint is dry to touch, stretch the liner to remove it. The stretched liner will flake off the overspray and the liner can be reused over and over.

C'mon Steve... flip the switch.

Mike the 73 tractors were last year. This year are the Bronco tractors.

This past weekend cousin Timbo and Toddbo came over and we continued to work on the lights in the barn and outside. Maybe one more weekend and we should be pretty close to being done. Got the sign hung on the wall over the main door. I made the frame out of 1x rough cut shiplap siding. It comes off pretty easy to get at the lights behind the sign. Here are a few pics.

All mechanical work is done, I am repairiing the plastic fender now. Have the key installed in dash and used original choke and throttle cables. New Headlights installed. Broken fender will be repaired with a piece of 1/8 ABS, sheet metal and JB Weld.

​ I just bought a 1969 Wheelhorse Model 7245 Electro 12 about two weeks ago. It has a rototiller,runs good but needs lot's of repair and paint. I just bought it to rototill our home garden garden. Then I stumbled on to this website and after reading many of the articles on this site I am hooked on the wheel horse and very interested and hope to restore my tractor. It's my first one. I'm 68 years old. I'm excited about starting this project. ​ ​Good luck with your wheel horse!

Well, considering this one was the worst one of the two sides Don... even with fighting the unexpected hassle with the hazing...over all, I'd say my brake fluid experiment did a pretty good job.

So today, I decided to tackle the second side... difference being I did it outside this time. Everything was the same, started off using up the last of the old bottle of fluid I used on the first side. This was an old bottle I had opened some time in the past, probably a couple years old, at least...and lasted just long enough to do maybe half of the second side. At this point, out comes fresh, new, unopened bottle to finish it up. Not noticing any difference in the process except maybe a little bit more resistance while wiping down the side, before turning the cloth. Finished it off with a cold water bath with some dish soap...immediately noticed a slight bit of clouding/hazing, while rinsing. Nothing major yet. Once I set the sign up next to the shed, the hazing really took off. I'm thinking that doing this outside, even though I was in the shaded back yard, was 85 degrees here today, and probably the new bottle contributed too. Was ultimately able to save it from a total disaster though(broke out the trusty ol' can of Mothers again)...did some intense polishing by hand. I was fighting the urge to use a buffer on it....decided to just take my time, and do it by hand while supporting the back side of the small area I was working on with my other hand. Very happy with the final outcome now...though a little more stressful, and a tad more labor intensive then the first side. Thought it would be remiss of me not to share this experience with the forum...as my method my not be advisable for the faint of heart. I've included some close ups to show the intensity of the hazing, a few of the picts include both areas, before and after the polishing process. Finally, a few close ups to show the power of Mothers to pull off the save, and ultimately restore a brilliant, reflective shine.

This followed me home to day Brian

I had planned to be there but my work trip was extended to 3 weeks and I don't get home till late this Friday.....have fun guys! Mike.....

Plan to be there Saturday. Not sure if I'm displaying anything this time. The wife like this show since it has all the flea market stuff on the other side but she probably doesn't want to spend the whole day.

Brought Two horses home from their winter pasture. Changed oil in the raider and put him to work mowing the ranch.

It's funny knowing that any of us seeing that sign are all thinking the same thing, "Man I would like to have that sign"!!!! ,

Glenn ... NO I didn't "LICK" my hood, LOL! I did have some louvers punched however .. looks cool and will help with the heat!!