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I took out all of the 57 series today and to get ready for the show this weekend. This 1257 is about 95% original. With the weather it should be packed show. I did a few things to the 1257 hear are a couple picks. Excuse the pink tones it is the camera it is getting old. thanks for looking Gary B.....

Wired it up... then, put some fire in the hole here today. Was still too bright outside... so I had to drag it back in the basement to get the full effect.

Well, since I had to tow you in TWICE over the past yr. I figured you owed me one.. This is one of those laugh now cry later type of deals for you, I can almost GUARANTEE it that you will be at the end of my line sometime real soon. KARMA. I might even pretend not to see you waving me over just to make you suffer a little.. I'll make sure to always have my camera handy for that special Kodak moment.. Now, the motor that konked out is a 1926 Johnson 2hp. I completely went thru this motor over the winter and then I shined it up. It hadn't been run in decades... She started easy and ran very well but when I shut it off to make some adjustments I couldn't get it refired.. It happens, I always expect to have to do additional work after taking out a motor for the first time in so long but for a motor that is 90 yrs. old I was very pleased, matter of fact I will be taking it back out in a few days...

a little - yes. insert the innermost shift rod drop in a detent ball, the shift stop spring and the shift pin move the shift rod until the ball, spring and pin are all shifted into a detent in the 1st shift rod. position the trans case so the shift spring is pointing upward and drop the 2nd detent ball onto the spring now the challenging part - and very few get this right the first time insert a long allen wrench thru the outer access hole in the trans case, and compress the detent / spring / pin combo while pushing down on the 2nd detent ball with the allen wrench, slide the 2nd shifter linkage into the trans case so the leading edge of the shift linkage slides over part of the 2nd detent ball - capturing the detent ball under the shift rod once the detent is "captured" under the shift linkage, remove the allen wrench and slide the 2nd shift linkage completely into the case until the 2nd detent ball clicks into the detent on the 2nd shift rod. if you are successful - great. If not there will be weeping and gnashing of teeth. If the insertion of the 2nd shift rod does not properly capture the 2nd detent ball, the stiff spring pressure may cause the spring and ball to fly across the room. It may be helpful to keep a rag on top of the case as you remove the allen wrench. This will help prevent the spring and ball from jumping out of the case and rolling underneath your workbench - never to bee seen again.

Hi all, it suddenly occurred to me that i haven't actually posted anything in this section of the forum, so I though i would share my horse with you as i have only done so on the restorations modifications and customisations board. The is my first horse and its a 1972 A-800 ranger, I am currently in the process of customisation called 'project agri-800', what I'm doing here is turning a lawn tractor into a garden tractor. lights, stack, Uni-drive, front spindle to 4 lug hub and agri style rear tyres are some of the modifications I have either done or doing to get there. the main modification is obviously getting rid of the peerless tranny and fitting a Uni-drive i and in the process of doing that now. once i have finished this project I will have a one-of-a-kind heavy duty garden tractor that I will make various implements for such as a harrow, reel mower and various other bits. anyway, here are some videos from my youtube channel, i was only driving around the small garden here but the tractor will be used at the allotment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2mjMdbKd3U&spfreload=10 haha, opening line in this video "bet you didn't know i had one of these", it was one of my first videos of a wheel horse on my previously stationary engine and workshop related channel, I would hope being a red square member would suggest i own a WH!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpqluu0pfY0&spfreload=10 and some pictures for you all: thanks for looking, I hope I might have let some of you see the A series in a different light, callum

What happens to an inexpensive (or free) multimeter when you hook it up to measure higher voltages and you have the meter on the wrong measurement function? Fast forward to 5:11 on the video and find out. Also note the same test is being performed on a Fluke multimeter as the speaker is holding it in his hand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEoazQ1zuUM

KEN, HE WAS NOT TOWIHG YOU, YOU WERE PUSHING HIM WITH A STIF ROPE.

Well we had a really good day...... at least I did ... Me towing Ken B in with my 1929 Johnson 3hp (that I bought from Ken at the meet last year). Th eguy who took these photos was kind enough to post on the antique outboard site... thought I would share too

In a previous thread, several folks asked me how I painted my rims with tires already mounted. I recently did another set, so I illustrated the process as I did it. Typically, I like to paint the rims after they are mounted anyways, because inevitably when you have tires mounted on painted rims you’ll always scratch or nick them somewhere. I like to get the rims all cleaned up, blasted and primed, then mount my tires. Here’s my process: 1) Rims were sandblasted and primed with self-etching primer. Tires and tubes were mounted. Everything was wiped down with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover prior to taping. 2) Using blue 3M tape, I go all the way around the rim slipping the tape between the rubber and rim occasionally tucking it tight with a very small standard screwdriver. 3) Then I create a wider tape ring a few inches out from the rim lip. 4) Slide the whole thing into a kitchen garbage bag. 5) Cut a hole in the bag revealing your tape ring below. 6) Tape the bag to your tape ring previously created on the tire. 7) For silver rims, I like Eastwood Silver Argent rally wheel paint and I use a Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear. http://www.eastwood.com/silver-argent-rally-wheel-paint-set.html 8) I wipe the rims down a few more times with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover, blow them off with the gun, then shoot two coats of color and two coats of clear. I find that the Rust-Oleum clear holds a much better shine if you don’t let it set long between coats. As soon as it flashes, hit it with round 2. I do all four coats in about 20 minutes.

my first horse was a 657 (that I kinda stole from the hubbie) but the first one I bought for myself was an early 68 charger 12. after that there are alot more...love them horses!!!

I really like the way the two piece cultivator works on the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with the Hein-Werner hydraulic pump. It tool a fraction of the time to cultivator the vegetable garden from what a small tiller would do !

Took some time today to shine up the 55' Crestliner and load up 4 outboards to run at our first antique outboard meet tomorrow.

Part of the "Honey Do" list was to remove a large 12ft Forsythia bush. Dug a trench around it and chained it up to the loader bucket.

...thought I'd sneak up on the clean up with a little test patch first, to see if my idea would work. Started on the lip that slides into the frame, progressed to a corner... then I did the logo in the center, and finally the whole lens. I'm thinking I hit a home run with the first product I tried(pictured)... first shot shows the before and after.

Picked this little gem up today my very first rj58. Runs good trans feels good. Couple of questions, how do you check the trans oil? Also are the wheel horse decals oe? And is the clinton the right motor or should it be a k91 kohler?

Ok,,,,the lips are 1 1/4 inches and taper to about 1 1/2....the front lip extends about 1 inch....the rear is 3/4......heck they might be the same......they are HEAVY.....

When you pass thru St. Louis feel free to drop off that classic gt and pick up a load of projects from me. Travel safe. steve

GLENN,,,,,,,,,,,I CHECKED MY TRUCK.....MEASURED TWICE.... YOU DID SAY YOU ARE BRING IT TO THE SHOW......I THINK WELL....................I WILL HAVE ROOM FOR IT...... AND DONT WORRY.... MY MISS'S WONT MIND./.... I DON'T HAVE ONE YET.!!!! LOOLLOLOLO

Bud Andrews has some awesome homemade mufflers that look & sound great too. He was thinking about making some extra and bringing them to the show. If he has them I'm buying one. You can find him on FB

​you was right, I found ground cable broke into. Replaced and started and ran fine THANKS for your help

that makes perfect sense. I'm sure i'll feel some sort of "hitch" or "click" in the gear sets through the input pulley?

Actually, just turning the wheels is not going to tell you to much. Put the rear end on blocks. With the trans in neutral spin one of the tires, the other should go in the opposite direction. You can also keep one of the tires from turning (by holding it) and turn the other tire in either direction. Do this on both sides...this tells you that your differential is OK. Now take off the belt guard and belt. You want to put it in each gear plus the hi/low (8 speeds) and turn the input pulley in a counter-clockwise direction. You can tell by the feel if every thing is OK. Everything should turn freely just be doing it by hand. This will tell you if anything in the drive train is suspect. Trying to turn the tires while it is in gear is much like trying to start and old 3 speed car by jumping the clutch...the best way is by turning the input shaft by hand...or by using a long fan belt and another tractor and/or an electric motor. If it has a dip stick, see what the oil looks like...if everything else turned freely and felt OK, I would not worry about any milky oil at this point. If no dip stick, stick a rod down through on of the top holes in the trans...usually where the seat and fenders bolt on.

You can buy it from McMaster & Carr, but one piece (12" long) and shipping would cost more than a new brake pad assembly. PM me with your address and I will send you a piece the size you need. I get several "left-overs" from my brake linings when I cut them.

I do like that set up... are both those cultivators WH pieces Lane?

The holes are 11/2 inches in diameter....the bolt slots are 1/2 inch wide....10 inches between them....

Check your switch. If it's still putting 12v to the coil while in the stop position it will continue to run. Carbon build up can sometimes stay hot enough to trigger ignition too.

The balls are 1/4" I bought a hundred from McMaster. I refuse to spend my life trying to find them when they fly out and roll away

Well....I hope this helps you a bit.....the lip is 1 inch high.....guess they weigh about 60 lbs....maybe more/less..... 2 inches deep at the access holes and bolt holes...bolt holes are wide enough to secure a carriage bolt 12 inches across and fit inside the tire circle.......

More pics of the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with the two piece cultivator set before she went to work!

If you check the download section you can download the RJ58 manual. great find , enjoy

I think I may have stirred up the hornet's nest.. Ken has a few quality pics of my boat behind his I am sure.

I may have been the cause of Mike's featured tractor snafu. We were talking on the phone the other day and I mentioned that the '73 was the feature tractor. Must have been a brain cramp, old age, drugs, or a combination of all three. Sorry Mike. Now you can relax and take your time. No deadline looming anymore.

Yupper! My cradled KT17 in the C-175 decided to ground through the PTO lever/rod. I smelled something hot and it wasn't running right and I touched that rod and felt like I held a lit cigarette. Cleaned the ground wire up and it was fine! They will do crazy things!

Couldn't help noticing where you are from.I lived in Wooster until moving south in 1999.Spent many hours at Pleasant Hill Dam and dirt tracked raced at Lakeville Speedway and Buckeye(Wayne County) Speedway.Still have family in Lodi and West Salem.Wish you had some d-250 parts I could come up and get.

Hi Bob, It was good to see you again too, Jim figured it out tonight, it actually turned out to be the condensor, he had it running and finally got to take it for a ride, I was happy for him, he should be bringing it out to the big show Karen

C'mon Steve... flip the switch.

Mike the 73 tractors were last year. This year are the Bronco tractors.

This past weekend cousin Timbo and Toddbo came over and we continued to work on the lights in the barn and outside. Maybe one more weekend and we should be pretty close to being done. Got the sign hung on the wall over the main door. I made the frame out of 1x rough cut shiplap siding. It comes off pretty easy to get at the lights behind the sign. Here are a few pics.

​ I just bought a 1969 Wheelhorse Model 7245 Electro 12 about two weeks ago. It has a rototiller,runs good but needs lot's of repair and paint. I just bought it to rototill our home garden garden. Then I stumbled on to this website and after reading many of the articles on this site I am hooked on the wheel horse and very interested and hope to restore my tractor. It's my first one. I'm 68 years old. I'm excited about starting this project. ​ ​Good luck with your wheel horse!

It's a 2,990 lbs. rated trailer, with regular 3,500 lbs axle. Trailer itself weighs a little under 1,200 and will comfortably carry 4 tractors with attachments mounted. Deck is built the same as their longer dual axle trailer so weight won't be issue. Keeping it rated under 3k lbs allows it to have a lifetime license here in MN... no annual registration or license plates either!

I PLAN TO GO ON SATURDAY WITH MY 1054 DIESEL WHEEL HORSE. RUSS

Yeah...then what happens when someone... while not paying attention, runs into the back of your cart? That scenario just ain't going to end well.

You forgot step # 9 .... stepping back and grinning ear to ear ......

Brought Two horses home from their winter pasture. Changed oil in the raider and put him to work mowing the ranch.

This topic has been around the horn a few times, only in different shades of "grey". Chuck - while the L110 probably is a good quality "lawn" mower, I think the topic was "GT". Garden Tractor..... I am sure an L110 would fail miserably being used as a garden tractor. It's just the world of today we live in when it comes to what we see that is mfgd. today. Small gardens, maybe even no gardens, has diminished the need for a mower that is also used as the garden tractor. Additionally these 3 items come into play: Economical - the mowers of today use half the gas they use to burn on the same sized lawns. EPA standards Cheaper - Customer driven, "I want to pay less" and still have a John Deere! Faster - Meaning the cut of the lawn. "I don't want to spend 2hrs. on my lawn." As someone stated in the thread ZTR's are dominating the market. Put all 3 of these together, plus my opinion, on 1 more item: Laziness - The youth of today would faint if they had to go out and do some "real work". I am sure there are members in here that have raised their children to understand that manual labor will not kill you. But for the rest of the world, Well - just look at how many info-mercials we have now compared to 15 years ago, on how to lose weight, cut calories, get into shape... RMC

It's funny knowing that any of us seeing that sign are all thinking the same thing, "Man I would like to have that sign"!!!! ,

Glenn ... NO I didn't "LICK" my hood, LOL! I did have some louvers punched however .. looks cool and will help with the heat!!

Finally got the grill finished up and shined. Looks weird with the reflections!!! Slow but sure!!!