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here's a 1956 Brian

Here we go... The intent of this thread will be for members to post pictures of they're 1955 to 1957 RJ 35 model tractors. There will not be any voting, winners or losers just a thread for everyone to see pictures of this model. Please post your pics.

Here's mine it's a 1955.

This is a 1957 RJ-35 project which is patiently waiting in the haymow, lots of rust, but lots of potential too.

No offense meant Dad, just a humorous picture. You do realize that as a Browns fan I have to have a sense of humor just to watch em. lol

I figured since the rest of the Work Horse got new tires the mower deck deserved some new gage wheels. I'm guessing the old ones were original from the looks. Couldn't bring myself to pay $23 each for the wheels from Toro so I hunted around and found some at the local True Value. These were Arnold 6x1.5 steel wheels with an offset hub and a diamond tread (http://www.arnoldparts.com/equipment/arnoldparts/490-320-0001). I could have picked up a ribbed tread but it had a centered hub. Beggars can't be choosers. Also got some 1/2 shoulder bolts in a 1 3/8 length, nylock nuts, and four 1/2 washers to shim in case. Got the old wheels off and measured them at 5.5" OD. The old shoulder bolts were wrecked too. These wheels had almost 3/4 inch of play at the outer edge. New wheels mounted with the new bolts, needed two washers each on the inside since the shoulder was about 5/32 longer and the thread was the same amount shorter. I ended up using the old 3/8 nuts on the new bolts with a drop of red loctite since the threads just barely protruded from the nut. Looks good, no more wobble. Total was around $19.

Better watch were you park the lawn chair!! :laughing-rofl:

Thanks dude. Thanks Mr Ranger. Thanks Callum. By the end of today I hope to have WN stripped down to the bare chassis for final welding. So yes, pavement pounding is not that far away now Morning chaps, yesterday's progress for you.. The expansion bottle is now fitted in the only place it could go.. It's a bit tight in there! The bottom of the bottle may look rather close to the prop shaft but the is a good inch gap between the two. The carb tube air filter thingy now has a couple of tabs to bolt it to the hood stand.. The carbs now have extra support which they never did on the SilverWing but did on earlier models! The battery box is now mounted although I need to add a little extra bracing.. The battery comes out through the top. And playing around with hood hinges..

I'm happy everyone is ok and the damage wasn't too bad. The last time it was the ice age that took out the Dinos. Now it looks like traffic and women drivers are out to get you.

Did I hear Florida!?!? Brandon is right, there's not a lot of us down here. Doug, we're a bit apart with you being in the Miami area and me just north of Orlando. I don't know what you'd like to discuss that can't be posted here but I'll send you a quick email so you'll have mine as well. Just know that all the folks here are great and not only love Wheel Horses but love to help others. You found the best forum there is for our beloved little red tractors.

std tubes for RJ's have tr15 stems miller tire sells a round spacer to take the difference Brian

Have tried unsuccessfully now to upload videos 3 times of the difference between the Gates 6686 BR 1/2 x 141 3/8 and Gates 6652 BR 1/2 x 139 5/8 on my tractor. The short answer is that 6686 work for me - had play in both the idler arm and plenty of slack in the belt itself. Worked like it was designed to. Obviously couldn't have done this without the Wheel Horse Community. You may regret it, because now, I have to get to getting the rj35 up and running. Cheers, John

I've got some covers but they are just a stainless sleeve for looks. You might try tubes with a TR-4 or Tr-6 stem. They are the type with nuts and I used them on mine.

Just heard weather alert. No snow for the next two season's because off, Lack of Interest! We can only hope

Imagine being on Skype and have this red truck come roaring in behind you! Of course you'd keep talking and just think Chris was running the vac or something!

Likewise, and if you don't like the way she drives, stay off the sidewalk!

In my wonderful days of youth, I wanted a Muscle Car. Nothing else would do. So at the age of 16, my dad signed for a loan, on a 1971 true numbers matching, SS Nova. Color, hood exactly like what is in the photo. 1 owner car, with all the documented up-keep. True 10 bolt posi, 350/275hp. Bench seats, auto. That was right around summer time when I got the car..... Fast forward 3.5 months. Now fall is setting in. I am not liking the fall weather and dad is starting to snicker a little about the Nova.... I believe his comment was something like "well, if you get up early enough in the morning, there is this big yellow thing that will pick you up for school". I certainly did not want to drive the Nova in the fall, winter months, and I was not about to ride the bus..... SOOOOOO, I devised a plan. Once day after school on a Friday, I went and picked out a 1978 Chevy 3/4 ton Scottsdale 4x4. Photo attached also. The story behind me getting the truck is to looooong to type, but the shortened version is this. I went to the dealership, let them know I wanted the truck, salesman said you are to young to purchase without a parent signing. Gave them the number and name of person at the bank I banked at and walked out with the truck. Salesman was dumbfounded and was still trying to pick his chin up off the floor when I drove away with the truck.... And they say farm boys are slow and ain't got a clue... I worked 3 jobs and still had a full schedule at school. However, I had enough credits my junior and senior year that I did not have to stay for the last 2 periods of school. So that got me some extra hours at 1 of my jobs to help pay for (2) vehicle payments, insurance, gas, maintenance, and storage for the Nova for the bad months......... Rob

What... no curb feelers?

Glad your alright and there is not a lot of damage on the house which is good too.

Still running great, can't wait for my V-treads to get here.

Looks like she was zeroed in on the DINO. Ya sure it wasn't an upset EX.

Just be aware there are certain aspects of these drawings that are intentionally over-simplified. For example, the blue wire leading from the ignition switch S terminal to the starter relay is not a single uninterrupted piece of wire. Depending upon your particular model of tractor, there may be a single clutch safety switch in that line, a neutral safety switch and most likely a PTO switch too. My bottom line when I troubleshoot is to do so by FUNCTION of the wire - not necessarily by COLOR. Color co-ordination of the harness with the manual is a great gift but if you understand the function of the wire, you got the problem half fixed.

Yes, it is. Wouldn't mind having one.

That thing is a beaut, isn't it?

That picture sums it up.......that's what it's all about....horse, cart, working!

If the 3 lugs are equispaced (every 120 deg) it's more than likely a 1" axel Lawn Ranger (65, 66 at least) . If the lug holes are 2 (approx. 72 deg) and 1 (approx. 144 deg )(complete like a Y pattern) it's a very older model. At any rate as previous post those had 2 diff trans case configurations, one a 3 piece and other two a 2 piece case. Not sure if they had 1" or 1 1/8" axles, but from the beginning the tractors equipped with them had plows as attachments if I'm not mistaken. What else they might have "dragged" not sure. Up till around 1974 the 3 (4) speed was a common "worker". Check oil for cloudy milky and ease of hand turning input or axle and shift ease through gears to be safe. Water likes to play havoc inside a left outside tran. "Have a great day everyday!" Woops was late didn't intend steppin' on Paul!

Well I didn't disect the old solenoid (like Save Old Iron did), but I did replace the solenoid as I noted voltage drop under load that was higher than I liked. I was seeing about .5-.6 volts across the solenoid posts while spinning the starter. I replaced with a new solenoid and found the voltage drop to be steady at .05 volts across the posts. Now it spins over and starts just fine. My guess is that these big Kohlers need everything working just right. On the smaller engines, maybe the .5 volt loss wouldn't cause a problem, but on this guy it needs everything it can get. Seems to be working fine for now. Will report back if anymore problems. Thanks to all for you help!

I like the simplicity of this idea its got written all over it! I think your idea of reversing the motion is the way to go and then the only thing you may need to add is a way to quickly lock the adjustment lever in position, maybe a small plate with notches cutout? The force of the snow will keep the cable taught in the reverse setup but might be able to overcome the lever tension and still move the chute. I may have to borrow this idea Ed!! Hope you don't mind I have thought about adding the rubber flaps to the auger multiple times so maybe its something ill get around to before this winter. Do you have any experience ever doing that before? Now that I cleaned up my blowers and got some fresh paint on the chutes I made I didn't have to many clogging issues, only with the really nasty wet stuff at the very end of the driveway a few times. Did you put much thought into the smaller diameter pulley or just figure its something to try? Im wondering how much it will change the rpms and wondering more so how it will act when it starts to slow down from being loaded up with a lot of snow? O and by the way I have changed a few belts without removing that pulley, its takes some finagaling but it can be done And considering you have such a bada$$ snow removing beast you need to drop those standard bungees on the tire chains and get some of these ttp://www.amazon.com/Security-Company-QG20030-Traction-Tightener/dp/B002KQ86EY/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1431438790&sr=8-13&keywords=tire+chains yes regular bungees work but these are the real deal for a legit snow machine!!

My new building arrived almost a month and a half early.Good thing I've been preparing for about 3 weeks.I had to get rid of about 7,000 pounds of scrap metal.Cut down 4 trees and take out 2 of the stumps,take down my garden fence,move my chicken coop,and spread and roll 90 tons of crusher run.The three guys who built the building rolled into my back yard about 9:15 this past Thursday morning and unloaded their truck and trailer and started working.5 minute water break in the late AM.Half hour pizza and wing break about 4 PM.Building was done,mess cleaned up,tools and equipment loaded back up,and they left about 8:30 PM.I never saw 3 guys work so hard and fast.The building is all steel construction,30 ft by 30 ft.12 foot high walls.Two 10 by 10 roll-up doors,36 by 80 inch personel door.I'm going to use the building for equipment storage and to store some of my Horses that have been living outside.I'm going to put some metal shelving that I bought about 10 yrs ago along the side walls.No electric power,no heat,no insulation,just a crusher-run floor.Plain and easy storage.Here's some pics.

Glad everyone is a-ok Steve. This seems to be happenin quite a bit these days...

Looks like I'll make it this yr.

this one is a little better

Well done I like what I see here! How well does the throttle cable for the deflector work? I would think the cable would bend before moving the chute? And I really like the idea of more auger rpms.

I agree, very solid house Steve Glad it was just a Nissan that hit your house.....An American built F-150 would have knocked it off its foundation.. Glad you two are OK

Everyone got the shooty shoot Mike. It is a piece of SST I found John. The chute deflector control was made from a throttle control off an old hand mower. I know it's not Hi Tec, but I have in cab control of the chute rotation and deflector..and it works. Here's the rubber pad on the auger Glenn. It closes the gap between the auger and the blower housing. Also added wheel weights (50lb each) and rear weight (150 lb) and front chains. The rears were chained and loaded with washer fluid. Changed blower drive pulley from 5" to 4" to increase auger RPM and make it possible to change blower belt w/o moving the pulley. Motion foot control and heat collector are not new, but both worked well last winter. The cab stays 30F higher than outside temp. We'll have to wait a few months to see how the new mods work.

I see: Stainless steel chute front Rubber auger scraper Lower hinge/additional hinge point on chute

I see the shootie shoot!

Check the vacuum gauge

Agree!

amazing work for sure..

Thanks Mels Thanks Pullstart. It was just a flash of inspiration one morning really Thanks Jerry, happy you like my videos.. Just uploading the next one as I type this Your welcome to the updates, in fact here's quite a big one The braking system is now finished bar a bit of plumbing and finding somewhere to bolt the reservoirs to. A few photo's of the finished linkages.. WN now has a working throttle pedal. A simple bolt on bracket converted the pedal from push to pull. To stop the clutch and throttle pedals from flopping backwards I made a couple of these anti-flop stopper thingys. Time to move onto a different part of the build, fuel and air. Here's the tank I'm using, I bought it from Nigel long before the workshop move. To make sure the engine gets enough fuel I needed to fit the Honda's fuel tap, which means I need to cut a bit out the Honda's tank.. Even though the tank had been empty for many months with no cap of tap fitted it still had that old petrol smell.. So be be sure it wouldn't blow up when I cut into it I used my old trick involving some rolled up paper and a blow torch.... And yes I did light it outside

probably not going to chop that one , but i am in the process of chopping the top on my `30 ford coupe project

my first car was this 1930 Model A Ford 4-door sedan in 1970. it is long gone , but since then i have always owned a Model A Ford of some type this is my current Model A Ford , a 1928 Tudor sedan with a 350 chevy. i have had this one since 1988

ok this is my unfinished commando v8 now V16 project i hope to have it done for the big show! it has a 16 horse brigs twin costom louvered hood, piston shift knob , stainless twice pipes, ford truck hubcaps, cool hood orenament, & a custom black & white tuck & roll seat

I guess I'd better post my Raider 20 6X6 here then You all know the story by now.. It's been dragging on for long enough She started life as a humble and very worn C-125.. A body swap soon had her looking like this... Enter Garry and some beer.. And the idea was born Over four years later she looked like you know her now..

here's my RJ58 custom stainless Brian