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Part 1 I rewrote the parts list from an 18 Automatic Parts Manual because it contained errors, and I wanted it to basically be used as a simple checklist. I also began {term used rather loosely} to make what I am referring to as an Assembly Order List. Essentially a list of how I think my tractor should be reassembled in a logical order. In this first part I will commit to complete steps 1-23. The edge trim on the axle openings is my addition not OEM. What I started with, Pics 1-4. The frame, Pics 5-8. Assembly Order List, 9. The front axle, 10-11. Grease fittings, 12-13. Axle Pivot. 14. Washers, 15. Lock-nuts, 16. Hex-Bolts, 17. Edge trim, 18-22. Thrust washer (upper), 23. Thrust bearing, 24. Thrust washer (lower), 25. Left spindle, 26. Left "E" clip, 27. Right "E" clip, 28. AO page 1 Complete, 29. Next update may be awhile as I need to have both some machining and welding done before I can complete AO page #2. P.S. The frame pictured is not original to this tractor, but it is from an 18 Automatic, even though this frame is not equipped with the seat mount spring. I removed it, in order to add a hydro fan. The axle and 1" spindles are from a different tractor as well, and consequently Item # 17 and #22 both have part #'s for the 3/4" "E"-Ring clip. This should be replaced with the part # for the 1" "E"-Ring clip. I just didn't have that part # readily available when I made the AO list. This list also has the part #'s listed for the 3/4" parts in steps 2 and 13-21.

This is why reading Craigs list is dangerous. I find another cart yesterday. Just like the one I bought a few months back. This one lead a easy life and lived in a garage. The owner took the dump handle off and bolted the cart and hitch together. He just used it to haul. The bed is very nice. No deep rust pits. Over the years he painted the rims to match his 310-8 wheel horse. I just hit it with the hose to get most of the dust off. The shape is pretty darn good. Needless to say I feel like I struck gold. The best part. Less than a mile away from home. When I pulled in the driveway to smuggle it in. The Mrs. Pulled in right before me. Suprisingly. No reprecussions. Enjoy the pics. Glenn

I had a listing on ebay for my 96' 520 with 60" deck. Got to taling with a potential buyer and he offered up his C160 plus some cash on top. He is from Rochester NY and I am in CT. He made the trip out to my place today to make the trade. I would think it is about 5 1/2 hours each way...He is a really nice guy and knows his horses for sure. He has traveled around the country buying out many Wheel Horse dealers back in the late 90's. He went to the 2nd annual Wheel Horse show in PA but then life got in the way of his hobby so he sold a lot of his stuff and lost interested. He did manage to restore this one back in 07'. Did a nut and bolt restoration including rebuilt motor and tranny, auto paint, upgraded front end to the HD spindles and all new wiring. Since his restore he tried not to really work it. He also has a 520-8 that he uses as a worker. He and I are both happy and I got some parts to boot. I am not thrilled bringing a tractor to the big show that i did not restore myself however i think this one will be there for sure. I plan on pulling the wheels tomorrow and painting them the correct white. Has a few touch ups to do no the rear end and throw on the wide 10.50 on 520 rims to give it the look I want. Here she is...

That,s nice. I drove through a torrential rainstorm to get my cart. It will be making it's first show appearance this year.

Issues with a starter solenoid can arise when the internals of the solenoid become pitted and vaporized from repeated high current arcing. This is a very easy condition to check by measuring voltage drop across the solenoid terminals. Set your meter on low volts scale (2 volt or 20 volt scale). Connect one lead of the meter to each of the large terminals on the solenoid. Crank the engine with the spark plug temporarily disconnected. Note the voltage reading on the voltmeter. Whatever voltage you see on the meter is indicative of a power loss in the solenoid - power that should be going to the starter but is being dissipated as heat in the solenoid. Typical voltage drop in a solenoid should be much less the 0.5 volts (half a volt). If you see one or two volts dropped across the solenoid, a replacement is needed.

Big thanks to Ross who sold me his 417-8 Speed without finagling! Made the 140+ mile drive to get the tractor with the Series II KT Twin on it and remembered something else that came on these machines. The 12 volt DC lift for the attachments. (Plus a shiny chrome air cleaner and a little chrome left on the muffler). It needs work but my plans are to bring it back close to it's former self. The carb needs a cleaning and new lines plus plugs, points & condenser. It doesn't run bad considering the condition of the plugs and points! PS....that lift cycles faster than I thought it would. Much easier to pick a height for the deck than the 520 was before it lost it's mowing privileges.

I know I'll get flamed but I'll take a C-160 over a 520 any day.

Very nice. The 7-2211 was produced 1968-1974 and they made so much product those years that they used the 493435 serial number in each of them. The 1971-1974 models would have had a -6, -7, -8 or -9 suffix following the model number. That leaves this one a 1968, 1969 or 1970 model. Garry

Can you guess? Ha. Its been a little cutoff at the knees. Got a nearly complete 80's 520H that was in rough shape. Guy bought it for the engine to use on his Deere. He started parting it out but I was the first buyer and got the whole thing for a real good price. He was a good guy! Much of the tins and the deck were not salvageable so they were donated to his scrap pile. You can also get a peak at the really clean low hour Onan P220 I got from Carl (zieg72) today as well. Oh and the oil is from the tranny filter bracket the guy put in my bed and flipped over . At least now my rubber bed mat, ratchet strap and half of my rented trailer will not rust. AND i know. i know the trailer is the wrong color! Sunbelt can still beat everyone around for a half day trailer rental....

I don't think a safety switch would stop the lights from working. Thanks for the good news!!!!!!!! Should I jack up the seat and drive a new tractor under it???????

That isn't an Allis Chalmers horse, that's an Industrial Electro. As for the value it would depend on how many others are for sale and if the color isn't a deal breaker. In my area you could probably get $700 to $800 for that package, may be higher or lower in your area.

Wow Glenn , that looks pretty much brand new , she is a real beauty . Even sweeter that the Mrs didn't mind the new arrival.

Well i finally got a little time to try the marker test. You guys were right. I took off the hubs and there was one keyway in one and the other was missing. Thanks for the help!

Was at Steve's house today looking for some RJ parts. He had a guy coming 5.5 hours to do some horse trading. Just as he was about to leave, Steve remembered he needed to get a picture for this thread but his phone was down in the barn so I took it for him. Steve got a very nice restored C-160 and the other guy got one of his 520s. So here what was in his mirror on the way home:

probably not going to chop that one , but i am in the process of chopping the top on my `30 ford coupe project

If the welding doesn't work out, send me a PM. I've got some laying around. Depending on where you live, might be a short drive to pick up.

The only GTs I can think of out today are deere, cub, simplicity, husq / Dixon / craftsman, and is Ingersoll still around? I think what has happened is that the 5-7k gt has been filled with premium ztrs when the primary job is mowing. The people who want snow and ground work, by a scut with 0% for 72months deals making 20k doable, and you get good machines that can do more with loaders etc. I think the market has gotten small to a point where it is niche now someone that looks at a simplicity might buy a scag. And big box store machines have their place ans price point.

I have at least 30 wheel lug nut kits to bring. They, along with the brake linings will be available for sale or trade.

Awesome! Thanks for the information...You know after seeing that last picture I vaguely remember that piece being on there at one point. (I've had this tractor for years). Once I get the rear welded up and repaired, I will go back to looking at the original issue.

This is the guide you're missing from your cover.

It has been my son's dream since he was twelve years old, to be an Officer in the Marine Corp. Yesterday, my son, Jeff, was promoted from Staff Sargent, to 2nd Lieutenant, USMC. First salute as an officer from his dad. 2nd Lt. Jeffrey Thomas Evans, USMC.

Yep, I think the post above me may be on to something. Scotty, check out your hubs compared to the axles...it does sound like a bad key or keyway. Take a magic marker and draw a line across each hub across the axle...if the axle line moves in relation to the line on the hub, you have found the problem. It does not have to be that both are bad to do this.

So, now that I have the trailer I need to put it to use. Today I picked up a 1981 C-145 with a 48" SD deck. It is very original, well maintained, and flawless plastic seat pan (other than being faded.) I'll cut the grass today and polish it up tomorrow for some portrait photos.

Got me another horse this week, 210-H

taken down to bare metal, . starting to put back together, need to pick up new bolts yet and paint a few brackets Just have to put the rack and the guide wheels on and then done.

I have completed mod on JD Thatch rake I bought last fall. Have always like/wanted a front thatch rake for the Horses as I had 1 a few years ago on a Simplicity Conquest. It worked excellent and was able to tow a sweeper so was a 1 pass setup. It was not very difficult to modify. Made a mount for tractor from angle and spracers. Welded it all up and utilized holes already in frame. The rake mount frame needed shortening so pivit point was not too far forward as would be rake too. Lift lever was a little trickier as Had to go on same side as impliment lever. I made mount for it from a solid steel block (overkill but wanted to thread it). Made a couple bents to clear everthing and it functions nice. Then stripped the awful green/yellow and sprayed with IH red majic from TSC. Not a perfect paint job (couple runs) as was first time using catylst etc with enamel. I'm happy with the outcome as it's just a rake after all. MU

Straight in as you walk into the grounds.On the right You encounter The Dino, Vinylguy, Bob Maynard, buckrancher, Zeek and after that maybe me or BPjunk ect. Depends on what spots are open. It's all first come first serve

I've been waiting for this build thread for a long while! Now get to it!

Sounds like what oldredrider said. It sounds as if the belt is not engaging the transmission. Could be a broken belt, could be a problem with a pulley. I'd say take off that side panel where the belt is, and watch what is happening when you are engaging the belt.

They are cast iron. You should be able to weld it...or someone may have one for sale. I found one for my B-100 a couple of years ago...they are out there.

Nice. :bow-blue:

I hear what you are saying. When I get into this conversation with folks, I glance over my shoulder to see what type of car or truck they drive. Surely with this attitude of "older is better", they must all be driving a 1970's pickup or a 90's Crown Vic? Right? A dealer who won't sell the lower end of his line? With the number of sub $2000 tractors that leave the big box stores every year, those are all lost opportunities for Deere dealers to cultivate a much larger customer base. If correct expectations are set when selling the lawn tractors, time is spent training and educating the new buyer and providing reasonably priced yearly maintenance, the new customer may well be back in a few years to trade in the 100 for a 300. I just dislike dealerships that see me walking thru the door and think they just scratched off a winning lottery ticket.

Hank01 is on point. Pull the starter off the engine and check for side to side play on the gear side. Any slop indicates a worn bushing and will bind the starter. Bushings are available on Ebay. A good cleaning will do wonders for the efficiency of the starter.

Without either... what've we got?

that is a big problem over here, parts etc. anyway here is the pictures as promised: hope these help, Callum

111-6 with 30" deck 520-H with 42" deck 520-H with 60" deck Cleat

Hey guys, I just read some of the older posts. I am in Wausau, WI. Sorry for the late reply. Bill's Service center in Stratford, is a Toro dealer. http://www.billsservicecenter.com/ I picked up a set of blades for the mower from them. If I have the part numbers, they can let me know if the parts are still available. I left work after a couple of hours today. I have the nasty cold/flu that is going around. So, I won't be doing anything with the tranny today. Experience has taught me to not work on anything while sick. Things just don't go as well. I do have the weekend off, and I plan on getting some more done with the tractor. Maybe some painting too!

I drilled the holes thru from the back side after I welded the plate in using the old holes as a guide Brian

So here is my 2 cents on all that I have read. I also have a 520 i and it (used) to not start after a hot shutdown. I did many of the above things that were suggested including a thorough electrical check of base line resistances through all the various relays in the start circuit. I finally did change the fuel pump. Did it correct it? Don't know as I got so paranoid, I would never shut if off hot if I needed it again that same day. Two days ago, I did do a hot shut down and 30 minutes later it started just fine. I also tried the gas in the spark plug hole and it ran fine which tells me that you have a fuel problem, not a spark problem. The fuel solenoid shutoff is not getting power during the start cycle. Check all the wiring in the start circuit which provide 12v to this solenoid. The start relay could be the problem or any of the electrical contacts in the start relay circuit. A high resistance at a connector may behave like an open circuit. Any place there is an electrical contact can be suspect, including the ignition switch. Swap the 3 relays around, they are identical. Sometimes just moving the connector on and off is enough to to wipe off any oxide that may have developed. On another note, the thick gasket is a heat isolator. Don't know if you need it or not. It was a frequently used item on auto engines in the 80's to keep heat from the block from getting to the carb and causing vapor lock. Electrical problems require diligence, patience, a wiring diagram and a good multimeter to diagnose. I don't envy you, but there is no other way around it.

You are definitely on the right track. The belt is "grabbing" the engine pulley which causes it to turn and will grind the gears. You'll need to figure out why the belt isn't completely releasing from the engine pulley. Sometimes a new belt is stiff and just needs to get a little wear. Putting it under load should help. With a new belt, I usually drive up to a wall or tree and put a heavy load on it for a couple of minutes. You can also try loosening the bolts around the engine for the belt guard and try moving the guard around in different postions. Sometimes a slight movement is all it takes. Usually it needs to be pulled up to support the bottom loop of the belt. Check the bend in the belt guard around the engine. It's possible the 90 degree bend isn't 90 degrees any more. If it has opened up some, it could cause the issue. Sometimes they go right on with no problem, others need to be played with until you stop it from grabbing the pulley. Post some close up detailed pics of the belt guard around the engine pulley if none of this solves your issue

I don't have a rear view mirror but this should work

Well it's not in my mirror because with my bed cover flipped up I couldn't take a picture. So here it is in my yard after I unloaded it. I'll start a new thread on it.

I believe its an 88 or 89 520H, the 90 and up had the motion control on the column. That pic is just the older style hydro control.

Picked up this 857 this morning just 8 miles from my home

I asked if anyone tried using water to decarbon a few months ago when I was cleaning up my 520H. I did not try it though. I'm going to get to adjusting valves and decarboning this summer. I'll post some pics of the top of the cylinders

Here is the most recent new owner of my C195. Kenb is very happy with this bad boy. I know he will take real good care of her. I say it will have a complete Kenb restoration by the end of May. Good luck with it Ken!

This is in my Mirror Sorry, it is a little blurry my latest horse, a 2007 315-8

Got the engine running, seems to run pretty good and not smoke, only has 50lbs of compression, but hopefully it will get better when it breaks in. Also got a batch of parts painted.