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Part 1 I rewrote the parts list from an 18 Automatic Parts Manual because it contained errors, and I wanted it to basically be used as a simple checklist. I also began {term used rather loosely} to make what I am referring to as an Assembly Order List. Essentially a list of how I think my tractor should be reassembled in a logical order. In this first part I will commit to complete steps 1-23. The edge trim on the axle openings is my addition not OEM. What I started with, Pics 1-4. The frame, Pics 5-8. Assembly Order List, 9. The front axle, 10-11. Grease fittings, 12-13. Axle Pivot. 14. Washers, 15. Lock-nuts, 16. Hex-Bolts, 17. Edge trim, 18-22. Thrust washer (upper), 23. Thrust bearing, 24. Thrust washer (lower), 25. Left spindle, 26. Left "E" clip, 27. Right "E" clip, 28. AO page 1 Complete, 29. Next update may be awhile as I need to have both some machining and welding done before I can complete AO page #2. P.S. The frame pictured is not original to this tractor, but it is from an 18 Automatic, even though this frame is not equipped with the seat mount spring. I removed it, in order to add a hydro fan. The axle and 1" spindles are from a different tractor as well, and consequently Item # 17 and #22 both have part #'s for the 3/4" "E"-Ring clip. This should be replaced with the part # for the 1" "E"-Ring clip. I just didn't have that part # readily available when I made the AO list. This list also has the part #'s listed for the 3/4" parts in steps 2 and 13-21.

This is why reading Craigs list is dangerous. I find another cart yesterday. Just like the one I bought a few months back. This one lead a easy life and lived in a garage. The owner took the dump handle off and bolted the cart and hitch together. He just used it to haul. The bed is very nice. No deep rust pits. Over the years he painted the rims to match his 310-8 wheel horse. I just hit it with the hose to get most of the dust off. The shape is pretty darn good. Needless to say I feel like I struck gold. The best part. Less than a mile away from home. When I pulled in the driveway to smuggle it in. The Mrs. Pulled in right before me. Suprisingly. No reprecussions. Enjoy the pics. Glenn

I had a listing on ebay for my 96' 520 with 60" deck. Got to taling with a potential buyer and he offered up his C160 plus some cash on top. He is from Rochester NY and I am in CT. He made the trip out to my place today to make the trade. I would think it is about 5 1/2 hours each way...He is a really nice guy and knows his horses for sure. He has traveled around the country buying out many Wheel Horse dealers back in the late 90's. He went to the 2nd annual Wheel Horse show in PA but then life got in the way of his hobby so he sold a lot of his stuff and lost interested. He did manage to restore this one back in 07'. Did a nut and bolt restoration including rebuilt motor and tranny, auto paint, upgraded front end to the HD spindles and all new wiring. Since his restore he tried not to really work it. He also has a 520-8 that he uses as a worker. He and I are both happy and I got some parts to boot. I am not thrilled bringing a tractor to the big show that i did not restore myself however i think this one will be there for sure. I plan on pulling the wheels tomorrow and painting them the correct white. Has a few touch ups to do no the rear end and throw on the wide 10.50 on 520 rims to give it the look I want. Here she is...

That,s nice. I drove through a torrential rainstorm to get my cart. It will be making it's first show appearance this year.

Issues with a starter solenoid can arise when the internals of the solenoid become pitted and vaporized from repeated high current arcing. This is a very easy condition to check by measuring voltage drop across the solenoid terminals. Set your meter on low volts scale (2 volt or 20 volt scale). Connect one lead of the meter to each of the large terminals on the solenoid. Crank the engine with the spark plug temporarily disconnected. Note the voltage reading on the voltmeter. Whatever voltage you see on the meter is indicative of a power loss in the solenoid - power that should be going to the starter but is being dissipated as heat in the solenoid. Typical voltage drop in a solenoid should be much less the 0.5 volts (half a volt). If you see one or two volts dropped across the solenoid, a replacement is needed.

Big thanks to Ross who sold me his 417-8 Speed without finagling! Made the 140+ mile drive to get the tractor with the Series II KT Twin on it and remembered something else that came on these machines. The 12 volt DC lift for the attachments. (Plus a shiny chrome air cleaner and a little chrome left on the muffler). It needs work but my plans are to bring it back close to it's former self. The carb needs a cleaning and new lines plus plugs, points & condenser. It doesn't run bad considering the condition of the plugs and points! PS....that lift cycles faster than I thought it would. Much easier to pick a height for the deck than the 520 was before it lost it's mowing privileges.

I know I'll get flamed but I'll take a C-160 over a 520 any day.

Very nice. The 7-2211 was produced 1968-1974 and they made so much product those years that they used the 493435 serial number in each of them. The 1971-1974 models would have had a -6, -7, -8 or -9 suffix following the model number. That leaves this one a 1968, 1969 or 1970 model. Garry

Can you guess? Ha. Its been a little cutoff at the knees. Got a nearly complete 80's 520H that was in rough shape. Guy bought it for the engine to use on his Deere. He started parting it out but I was the first buyer and got the whole thing for a real good price. He was a good guy! Much of the tins and the deck were not salvageable so they were donated to his scrap pile. You can also get a peak at the really clean low hour Onan P220 I got from Carl (zieg72) today as well. Oh and the oil is from the tranny filter bracket the guy put in my bed and flipped over . At least now my rubber bed mat, ratchet strap and half of my rented trailer will not rust. AND i know. i know the trailer is the wrong color! Sunbelt can still beat everyone around for a half day trailer rental....

I don't think a safety switch would stop the lights from working. Thanks for the good news!!!!!!!! Should I jack up the seat and drive a new tractor under it???????

That isn't an Allis Chalmers horse, that's an Industrial Electro. As for the value it would depend on how many others are for sale and if the color isn't a deal breaker. In my area you could probably get $700 to $800 for that package, may be higher or lower in your area.

Wow Glenn , that looks pretty much brand new , she is a real beauty . Even sweeter that the Mrs didn't mind the new arrival.

Well i finally got a little time to try the marker test. You guys were right. I took off the hubs and there was one keyway in one and the other was missing. Thanks for the help!

Was at Steve's house today looking for some RJ parts. He had a guy coming 5.5 hours to do some horse trading. Just as he was about to leave, Steve remembered he needed to get a picture for this thread but his phone was down in the barn so I took it for him. Steve got a very nice restored C-160 and the other guy got one of his 520s. So here what was in his mirror on the way home:

probably not going to chop that one , but i am in the process of chopping the top on my `30 ford coupe project

If the welding doesn't work out, send me a PM. I've got some laying around. Depending on where you live, might be a short drive to pick up.

The only GTs I can think of out today are deere, cub, simplicity, husq / Dixon / craftsman, and is Ingersoll still around? I think what has happened is that the 5-7k gt has been filled with premium ztrs when the primary job is mowing. The people who want snow and ground work, by a scut with 0% for 72months deals making 20k doable, and you get good machines that can do more with loaders etc. I think the market has gotten small to a point where it is niche now someone that looks at a simplicity might buy a scag. And big box store machines have their place ans price point.

I have at least 30 wheel lug nut kits to bring. They, along with the brake linings will be available for sale or trade.

Awesome! Thanks for the information...You know after seeing that last picture I vaguely remember that piece being on there at one point. (I've had this tractor for years). Once I get the rear welded up and repaired, I will go back to looking at the original issue.

This is the guide you're missing from your cover.

It has been my son's dream since he was twelve years old, to be an Officer in the Marine Corp. Yesterday, my son, Jeff, was promoted from Staff Sargent, to 2nd Lieutenant, USMC. First salute as an officer from his dad. 2nd Lt. Jeffrey Thomas Evans, USMC.

Yep, I think the post above me may be on to something. Scotty, check out your hubs compared to the axles...it does sound like a bad key or keyway. Take a magic marker and draw a line across each hub across the axle...if the axle line moves in relation to the line on the hub, you have found the problem. It does not have to be that both are bad to do this.

So, now that I have the trailer I need to put it to use. Today I picked up a 1981 C-145 with a 48" SD deck. It is very original, well maintained, and flawless plastic seat pan (other than being faded.) I'll cut the grass today and polish it up tomorrow for some portrait photos.

Got me another horse this week, 210-H

I worked this afternoon on the 1961 Wheel Horse 701 tractor ! I installed the lift arm piece (bought a broken one and had a new one welded as a replacement) I had made for the Hein-Werner HY-2 Hydraulic Pump/Lift Unit I bought last Fall at an auction. I had to drill three holes in the tower of the Wheel Horse to install the hydraulic pump support plate, installed the lift arm piece in the rockshaft for the hydraulic cylinder and tested it all out with my mid-mount grader blade that also has a tongue on it to install in the Wheel Horse rear slot hitch. These old HY 2 pumps have no large fill ports like the Wheel Horse 953/1054 pumps. It tool me 45 minutes to fill the hydraulic pump through the small fill port on the side of the pump! All in all it works well -no leaks on a 52 year old HY 2 Unit (was on a 1963 753 Wheel Horse but removed at the auction I bought it at and fully complete which is why I paid $90 dollars for it. It works great as a lift and I am going to use this with my two piece cultivator attachment in the vegetable garden this summer! I have a horn to install and lights before this 701 is ready to start rolling ! I also have to bend the shifter arm tomorrow to allow me to shift into 2nd and third gear! That reverse and 1st gear is just not enough for this 701~! This is really quickly starting to be my favorite tractor ! Pics from the install

Well I started on another project yesterday, really should finish some others first but didn't have anything to do for the day, and this one was on the list of future restorations. I picked up the 400 at the big show from Scott Mehlberg as just a roller, and found most of the parts it needed at the show or already had them. I got it complete and running, and now I'm going to make it nice, the hood and fenders had been repainted, but weren't very nice, they were just rattle can and the hood had fish eyes in the paint. Here's a shot of it as I got it together and complete, not sure if I'm going to use the weight, think I like it better without but that may change down to just a roller and most of the parts are in this pile I won't be using the motor or trans out of this tractor, I already had a motor torn part way apart that will be going in this, don't have any pictures of it yet as its in a couple different locations....and the trans is already done and it was in its own seperate topic in the transmission section Hope to get most everything blasted tomorrow besides wheels, frame and hood, and start on body work, this will probably be a slow project, but should be able to get most of the body work done in the next month or so as its not in too bad of shape.Will add more pictures as I go along. Thanks, Jake

I have completed mod on JD Thatch rake I bought last fall. Have always like/wanted a front thatch rake for the Horses as I had 1 a few years ago on a Simplicity Conquest. It worked excellent and was able to tow a sweeper so was a 1 pass setup. It was not very difficult to modify. Made a mount for tractor from angle and spracers. Welded it all up and utilized holes already in frame. The rake mount frame needed shortening so pivit point was not too far forward as would be rake too. Lift lever was a little trickier as Had to go on same side as impliment lever. I made mount for it from a solid steel block (overkill but wanted to thread it). Made a couple bents to clear everthing and it functions nice. Then stripped the awful green/yellow and sprayed with IH red majic from TSC. Not a perfect paint job (couple runs) as was first time using catylst etc with enamel. I'm happy with the outcome as it's just a rake after all. MU

You know it's spring in Minnesota when you see this coming down your sidewalk. https://youtu.be/69sJrVc7VFE

That poor horse should be red. It probably thinks it's a Allis Chalmers????

I've been waiting for this build thread for a long while! Now get to it!

Sounds like what oldredrider said. It sounds as if the belt is not engaging the transmission. Could be a broken belt, could be a problem with a pulley. I'd say take off that side panel where the belt is, and watch what is happening when you are engaging the belt.

I had a ride-a-matic a few years back. Was a pretty neat tractor that I had no problems with. Sold it off to fund my hobby.

also check the axle in the hubs Each axle turns the hub via a woodruff key and they tend to shear at the oddest times. You will notice the axle turning within the hub on one side (only one has to break to prevent all movement).

Hank01 is on point. Pull the starter off the engine and check for side to side play on the gear side. Any slop indicates a worn bushing and will bind the starter. Bushings are available on Ebay. A good cleaning will do wonders for the efficiency of the starter.

Hey guys, I just read some of the older posts. I am in Wausau, WI. Sorry for the late reply. Bill's Service center in Stratford, is a Toro dealer. http://www.billsservicecenter.com/ I picked up a set of blades for the mower from them. If I have the part numbers, they can let me know if the parts are still available. I left work after a couple of hours today. I have the nasty cold/flu that is going around. So, I won't be doing anything with the tranny today. Experience has taught me to not work on anything while sick. Things just don't go as well. I do have the weekend off, and I plan on getting some more done with the tractor. Maybe some painting too!

Planning to be there again (three years in a row) with Jay and James. Gonna try the camping thing this time to get the full effect of the Big show. Difinetly looking forward to seeing all my Red Square friends! Planning to arrive Thursday as usual. Looking to buy maintenance items like fuel tank caps and shifter boots. I would like to see one of Bob's wheel stud conversion kits. Also would like to find some AG tires at a good price, and of course anything else I can't live without LOL

Made a trip to the local scrap yard today and found this jem. 20 dollars later and it's all mine. Always amazes me what people throw away.

Sir...all and any criticism on my part is never meant to be serious. I would never do that on site...I would send you a PM and keep it between us. I just have never seen anyone take it apart like that. Two things...1. a bunch of us are going to a garden tractor show in Portage, Wis. July 10-12...there is a link in Red Square Herd...Why don't you join us? 2. Take a look at the videos in that thread...it will help a lot when you go to put it back together. You do not need a vise. Use a rear tire and a couple of 2 x 4s to support the shallow side of the case on a work bench. If the shift fork shafts came out of the casting, you may have a couple of detente balls rolling around in the case, or on the floor. Try to find those and the spring and also the stop that goes in the spring. Yes the # 3523 pictured from RacinBob is the same gear you have that is bad. Are you looking to get that gear from Bob? I think you may want to make a parts list at this point. Mike (Racinfool40) in Ohio may have any of the other gears you might want to change out. Seals and bearings (except for the #1533 bearing) are available from Motion Industries, NAPA, and maybe TORO. The gasket is available from TORO for about $6. In your 1st post, you said the Commando trans is pretty much identical to your 607 trans. You are correct. The major difference is the brake drum comes out a different hole in the casting. In your commando, the brake drum is on an extension of your cluster gear shaft. In your 607, the brake drum is on an extension of your 11/44 toothed gear (mushroom gear). The other difference is the length of the axles. Most of the inside gears are the same. I hope you did not take it that I thought you were shifting without stopping...that is not what I said, but that is what did that to those gears. Yes, we have all the numbers of parts, bearings, seals, etc. To post videos on here...2 ways...if you have Photobucket, you can upload it to there and then use the IMG code to copy and paste a link in your post. 10 minutes max limit on the video. The other way...upload to U-Tube and copy and paste the link in your post...no limit on length that I know of.

This is down in Indiana, but I already have my garden in so I had to move south to work up my sweethearts garden

And here is a guy who said he is all done with buying tractors...... I was not the seller but was the carrier on this one.

Well it's not in my mirror because with my bed cover flipped up I couldn't take a picture. So here it is in my yard after I unloaded it. I'll start a new thread on it.

Correct. 1990 was the first year that it was branded a "Toro" Wheel Horse. The 1990 had the motion control lever on the column and a swept front axle without steering reduction.

If it is an H is will have a std front axle the hc had the swept

I believe its an 88 or 89 520H, the 90 and up had the motion control on the column. That pic is just the older style hydro control.

Not a whole lot of new progress on the 400, been working on other stuff, but did find a couple parts for it at mentone today. Ended up with a nice set of front rims, a correct original belt guard in nice shape, and a nice frame and new reproduction heat shield. Frame is nothing special, but no pitting, and mine had quite a bit of pitting so this will be a lot easier to fix. The heat shields are pretty nice too, very very close to original, same size just a slightly different bend, if you didn't have an original to look at you could never know the difference. If anybody is looking for one I can put you in contact with him, he was selling them very reasonable. edit...Just checked with him again on heat sheilds and at moment he is not quite ready to sell, he is looking into making some more that he thinks may be a little nicer. Will let you guys know if I hear from him about having some ready to sell.

Here is the most recent new owner of my C195. Kenb is very happy with this bad boy. I know he will take real good care of her. I say it will have a complete Kenb restoration by the end of May. Good luck with it Ken!

You are all still cracking me up. In fact, while I was in the hospital a package arrived that a certain individual eluded to earlier in the thread. Mike, you have no idea how close I've been to this while reading here and being strapped to Agnes the IV pole, laughing and trying to get in the bathroom at the same time. This will be placed in my garage where I can see it easily keep you and everyone here close.

Got the engine back together as a short block today...Here's a couple pictures of it. Going to let the silicone I used on the gaskets dry and then get it to where I can test run it before painting it.

Thanks all for the comments...got a pretty good start on it today. Blasted everything on it I'm going to use other than the frame, hoodstand, hood and fenders, those will have to be done at the shop with the bigger blaster...the paint don't want to come off very easily on the fenders or hoodstand Got all these blasted, and any pits filled, these are now ready for primer and to be sanded. The clutch pedal and hitch have already been done once as I started on them in a batch of my 58 parts as I had spares laying around. Also these are now ready for paint