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I have always wanted a C-195 and now I have one thanks to good buddy Stevebo. I plan to use this tractor gently for chores around the house. It runs awesome and it sounds awesome. My wife came home yesterday and I had the 195 parked in her parking spot. She later asked why is that Big Red tractor parked in her spot. It instantly had a name..

I bought this blade to fab it up to a mid mount plow.I decided to try it on the rear hitch and move some dirt to see how it worked.I like the fact that I can swivwl the blade to push instead of pulling.

Might need to call this one a Wheel Pony. Seems in good shape and runs good. For $150.00 and just around an hour away I could not turn it down. If anyone has the owners manual for this 111-6 I would appreciate it. I found the parts manuals here at Red Square but not the owners. Cleat

I would think that 16x6.5 tube should work fine since the difference in size is only 1 inch wider. Is it possible the tube got caught on or pinched by whatever tool was used to put the tire back on the rim? Or, could something still be poking into the tire or stuck on the inside if it? Could the edge of the hole in the rim for the stem be cutting into it? Where did the new tube fail? (outer edge, inner side, stem) Same place as the old one?

These pics may help. I don't see the roller for the tension cam. Had to make the roller on mine as it is rather expensive new. And had to see if I could.

I just got the sign today. Very solid and heavy gauge steel sign. Got it hung in the barn!

It is a cool sign so I made a smaller banner to hang in my shop.

[sharedmedia=finalCountdown:countdown:1] Today is February 9th. There are only 136 days left until setup day at the fairgrounds. Will you be there? What day will you be there and how long are you staying? Are you staying in a Hotel/Motel or camping? Will you be displaying, selling, or both? If you are selling, what are you bringing? If you are buying, what are you looking for? Personally, I will be there on Thursday morning. I will be camping. I hope to be setting up on the usual corner under my RED canopy. I will be both displaying, and selling a few things. I should have replacement brake liners, 9-pin connector kits, and lug bolt to lug nut conversion kits. As far as what I will be looking for, my list includes a front end loader to fit on my 416-H, and a mid-mount grader blade.

This popped up on ebay the other day and I made what I felt was a decent offer and the seller accepted so it is on the way to be hung in the new barn. I believe it is a true dealer sign however not sure what vintage? It is about 3 ft wide. If anyone has any information on it. please let me know. Thanks- ps- the sign is porcelin and one sided

The footrests turned out very nice, I look forward to seeing some more picks as she comes together!!!

It somehow seems unfair that you have better toys than me. As usual, great job Brian.

tilled a bunch of damaged area I have from septic repairs,now its just like winter today

I have one that looks almost identical that I converted to work on my GT 14 rear 3 PT hitch (with an adapted 2 inch trailer hitch), the blade was originally from a Sears Suburban. When the weather gets a bit brighter I will add some pics. Note be a bit careful when you use in reverse i.e. just do the final grading or you will probably bend or break something.

There are show tractors, work tractors and parts tractors. If you get there on Thurs. you might get lucky and see Wallfish bulid a tractor out of a pile of junk and drink gas doing it!

Home again, huge thanks to Jeff for his time and effort this morning. I mean, the guy has a lot on his plate already and instead of knocking out his own stuff chose to jump right in and take my place getting dirty with this old transmission. I can't thank you enough, Jeff. So here's the low-down. Externally, the transmission looked real good. The gear oil (which I've never changed in the however many 20+ years I've owned it) drained out clean as though it were a day old. No water, no metal, nothing. Clean. Good sign so far. When Jeff pulled the hubs he noticed the right side keyway had worn wider at the top than down in the bottom of the cut. Later, we discovered the dimple on the axle shaft proper from the setscrew which locks the hub down had over time grown oblong which coupled with the widened keyway showed the hub had slipped. You'll see pictures of both those areas. Filed and sanded those high spots from the displacement of metal from the setscrews on the axles down flush so we could slide the case halves off. Once opened up, the signs of wear on both the final drive gearset and the input shaft gear were obvious. We also found two of the four sideplate bearings while intact, had pretty much thrown in the towel. You'll see pics of the worn / damaged gears. Aside from that, the rest of the transmission looked like brand new. Forks, detents, rest of the gears etc... The visual indications of excessive wear on only those relative few internal components plus the right wheel has me wondering if this tractor spent its' working life working hard as a plow tractor. Our '39-'40 John Deere B has unmistakable signs of it having been used mostly as a plow tractor too, from wear on one tire consistent with running in a freshly plowed furrow compared to the other having run only on unbroken soil to wear on the seat support on one side only which you'd expect with a tractor that spent its' working life tipped with one wheel down in the furrow. It's also possible that the tractor was worked with either low gear oil level or no gear oil, however, I would think damage to the rest of the gearset(s) would be present if that were the case. Fortunately, Jeff had in inventory the seals, bushings and some of the bearings we'll need when reassembling this old girl. We'll be on the lookout for NOS gear replacements for those three that are bad on my Wifes', or used gears even if in better condition than those three we removed. If any of you reading this have anything you think we can use, or have a line on a reasonably priced source, please PM me and I'll follow up as soon as possible. We're kind of under a time crunch, as I need to have this tractor completely done and Wifey comfortable on it before the middle of July. I'd like to have it completed and down at the BIG show to run and work out any kinks. That said, we're looking at what, a month and a half maybe. I'm kinda at the mercy of the sandblaster and the paint guys so hopefully we'll get the mechanicals squared-away mos tic which'll leave some wiggle room for the finish. That said and without any more talk, here are pics from this morning:

So, now that I have the trailer I need to put it to use. Today I picked up a 1981 C-145 with a 48" SD deck. It is very original, well maintained, and flawless plastic seat pan (other than being faded.) I'll cut the grass today and polish it up tomorrow for some portrait photos.

HELLO, I HAVE THE SAME REPLACEMENT MOTOR ON MY C120 TRACTOR. IT HAS THE COMMON WH 15AMP RECTIFIER,ORIGINAL BATTERY IGNITION SWITCH 103990. IF YOU USE THE MAGNETO TYPE SWITCH 103991 IT WILL START, BUT THE CHARGING SYSTEN AND LIGHTS WON'T WORK. HOPE THIS HELPS.

I can assure you it works on the BMW opposed twin...and the head gaskets for it are a "wee" bit more than $17 a piece!

This is an often used, yet controversial procedure used on oil-head BMW opposed twin motorcycle engines known as "water torture". I personally have done it more times than I can remember and never had ANY ill affects. In fact, it always worked wonders and cured the pinging issues that were so common even with 93 octane gas. I do recommend changing the oil after this procedure! You will know why when you see it drain out.

This should be better

I hope to see lots of pictures since I cant go....

This may help you along the way: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/modules.php?name=Docs2&do=show_doc&id=2

Evening chaps, yesterday I got WN's clutch pedal sorted... Up.. Down.... Now you may of noticed when the pedal is in the down position the pull on the cable isn't ideal, but this was soon sorted when I found a matching pair of pedals in a box under the bench! Of course I had to use a matching pair of pedals, so the newly found clutch pedal had a little trim, and extra hole drilled for the cable to attach to, and fitted. The clutch has a nice feel to it. a bit of travel and not too sharp.. I need to fit a stopper to stop the pedal from falling back which is why it's held up with a spanner As for the brake pedal, here it is almost in place. I need to trim about 3/4 inch off the inside to get it a little closer to the engine to make enough space for the throttle pedal. Sorry about the finger in the photo but here you can (just) see the matching pair of bike master cylinders. They came from 1000cc bikes (no idea which bikes, it was a long time ago) and should be more than up to the job. As you will of guessed one is for the front brakes and one for the rear.. The front's being bike calipers will be easy to plumb in... As for the rears, I have worked out a way of linking car and bike brake lines together that does not involve jubilee clips , but more on that when I get there. Yesterday Nigel was looking for something to do, so I gave him one of the rocker covers to strip of paint and give a very quick polish.. Very good it looks too Unable to stop himself at this point one of the exhausts was pulled off to have the ally clamp polished and a coat of high temperature paint.. Which lead to the question of what colour the engine should be painted.. Not having any gloss black between us part of the engine was quickly masked up and hit with more of the high temp paint.. Now it has dried to a matt finish it doesn't look that good, but while it was wet it looked great. So the engine will be going gloss black with a few select ally parts polished up Right side... Left side

Click on this link...it should explain the whole thing. It seems like we have had a few of these happen lately. Let us know if this helps you.

Boy-o-boy aint we glad Wheel Horse later figured out a better way to mount attachments!! :eek:

Here is a better quality pic. I also received the original snowplow attachment.

Sorry about the poor images. I finished my test and the following picture shows one of Mayhews decals at the bottom. It is a 3mil vinyl which looks screen printed and then a 9 mil thick heavy gloss vinyl laminate and cut with a die. the decal in the middle is made using a 4 color solvent ink process on 3 mil digital wrap air escape vinyl and 1 layer of gloss 3 mil laminate for a 6 mil thick decal. the top 500 special hood stand decal was made the same way but I added 2 more layers of clear gloss 3 mil laminate to make it a total of 12 mil thick. I find the 9 mil laminate on Ed's reproductions still have a deeper finished look due to it being one thick layer as opposed to three thinner layers? Anyway I am pretty sure the original 500 specials came with white wheels and white background decals. Hopefully someone can chime in that has a clean original to verify. Many of the tractors from the 60s were exposed to the elements and the white begins to yellow a bit. I am probably wrong but my theory is that if the wheels were white the decals were also and if the wheels were linen beige then they used decals that had a linen beige background to match the wheel color? THE COLORS ARE OFF A BIT DUE TO THE CAMERA ANGLE AND LIGHTING.

And thanks for the photos, but please repaint it RED!

​ Sorry for your loss... here's a pict of mine to ease your pain.

Take care of yourself the tractor will be there when you feel better.

Mel we will hook up sooner or later. Do you have a date you are going to have Joe do the sandblasting? He usually gives a better deal if we get more stuff to him as a package. I think I might have a few items for him to blast.

If the tag with the serial number is missing,(located on the front left of the frame) you are out of luck as it is not stamped any other location. I think if you find an RJ with the tag in tact and legible you are lucky.

I think we will be able to talk outboards tomm...

My garage is the same way as you shall see tomm.

By the way. If you do open up the tranny you might want to do that in the garage. You don't want to push Mrs. mels too far

Go to the reference section here under transmission instructional threads and videos and you will find all sorts of good stuff there. Stevasaurus has some great videos posted there. Don't be intimidated about opening up the transmission. Obviously you know your way around mechanical thingys so you won't have a problem. They are really quite simple. Download the repair manual in the manual section. I second motor12's comment on Jake. and there's also a cross reference for the bearings and seals here.

I believe my wife would have a heart attack if I did this.

I'm lucky to get away with my Suburban in the garage. Cool thread you have going here mels.

http://www.redoyourhorse.com/1955-to-1964-front-and-mid-engine-rjs-suburbans/

Great pictures, I also used a large drip pan when I disassembled my RJ, it kinda keeps the greasy stuff in one easy to clean spot.

Is that the table the dog lives under..i think I see his blanket.

They make the news when people bring their livestock in the house... Why not steel horses? Fits right in if you ask me

Going to get some work done, ​to hear about your knee, will say prayers for healing. A few years back a friend had surgery and while he was recuperating he used an old school desk ( the type that has an arm and work area attached to the back ) as a work station. All he needed was someone to carry the parts over near him and he could hobble over, sit down and work away! Best wishes for skilled surgeons and a speedy recovery.

I like RJ 58 projects, especially after all the parts are cleaned and primed. post lotsa photos.

While your at it replace the dip stick. That grommet can get hard and let moisture seep in there too

A friend of mine has a bit newer Case VAC with a gas/throttle pedal. I believe it is original to the tractor. Always fun to drive around at the shows. My Farmall's have been sitting in storage for years.... Last I tried to crank start one , gas poured out the carb bowl and the gas sediment bowl. Cant beat the sound of a 2 cylinder! But my Farmall C sounds pretty healthy. Has some motor mods done by me and pulls a very large two bottom plow that some Farmall H's struggle to pull. Miss the sound of that one.

Ohhhh that poor tractor. Is that a VAC? My brother has one, it's a '48, not in much better shape than that one. Has a hand throttle and a foot throttle. Cool little big tractors.

Thanks to fellow member Shawn, aka Cutlas3391, I finally got my elusive black hood. I traded my GT-14 for a 1984 C-165. I think that she looks awesome. She is in pretty good shape and just needs a good cleaning, fresh gas and tune up. Shawn is a helluva guy and I just want to thank him again! Thanks bro! My plans are to give her a 10 foot resto; looks fine from 10 feet but not perfect up close. We are talking rattle cans and elbow grease! She will definitely be a worker.

^ let us take a moment of silence for the fallen ones

I have an 84 C-165 8 spd. This tractor is my ultimate working tractor. Now it is my base project tractor as well, as I am going to put live hydraulics and a 3 point hitch on it. The steering doesn't feel "tight" as was stated earlier. I keep it well greased also. I know I will get some grief from this. But, all in all? It will give my 520h a serious run for the money. This tractor is the one tractor I have had that I will not part with. For mowing? It probably isn't the best, because it is not a tight turning tractor. But, for shear power and stamina? It cannot be beat. That 8 spd. and 16hp engine would be hard to beat. I would like to try a 500 series in the similar combo though. Then, maybe I might(not a chance) change my mind. I would rather make some of the chassis/steering modifications to this particular tractor to make it better (If it is at all possible) .