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This winter I have been stashing some Wheel Horses at my brother's pole barn as it has allowed me to have more room working on the tractors at my house. This winter I asked him if I could use some of his space for some rent....he offered to store the Wheel Horses as long as I mowed his grass in the spring (6 lawn cuts of 1.5ac). Well the other day I was there and I looked in the barn and I thought....oh my, I just might have a serious problem with Wheel Horses 3-520-H 3-520-8 2-C-161-8 C-161-A 520Xi 518Xi C-145-A 314-8 3 dozer blades 2 Hardi Sprayers Grader Blade So I took this photo to remind my self to quit buying tractors....though I doubt it will work. As you can see from the photo of my 10 year old son wearing his Wheel Horse shirt.....he clearly has a genetic predisposition to have Wheel Horse Fever (He has 7 more Wheel Horses that he keeps at my Dad's house Thad (Needing Help, in Ohio)

I am going to try an idea I have and see if I can get the results. I will do a hood set for the 500 without the racing stripe to save on media in case it does not work. I will post a picture of the actual results when completed..

Now we can get serious. Actually it won't be long until it gets its first load. It is a Sure Trac 6'x12' Tube Top Utility..

Thank you for your response. I've included a few pictures this time. Looking thru the gallery I was not able to pin down the model. the hood and the deck seem to be square. the battery is under the seat. It does have a pulse pump and the symptoms are: runs fine for a few minutes then have to leave on choke to continue. I guess my main concern right now is to find out the model.

Good evening, My name is Tim. It's my first time on this forum, and hope to learn a lot from you experts. I have been handed down a 50 year old WH 855 by family, which appears to be in very good shape. It hasn't been run in a few years, but properly winterized and taken care of exceptionally well. I have a friend who can help me get her in working order, but im not sure where to start, where to find parts and how to find a local expert (central Ohio). These items have been recommended so far: points (I don't know what that means), plug, condensor, air filter, oil, grease zerks, clean the carburetor, sea foam fuel system cleaning and a fuel additive since our new fuels are tough on old systems...are these items all accurate? What else must I do/check/replace? All advice regarding the above topics, plus estimated total cost would be greatly appreciated. I am just a horticulturist, far from a mechanic, and want to truly understand my new machine. Thank you kindly, Tim

So while I was waiting for paint to dry...I installed Matts Hydro Pedal kit...It was fun and I can't wait to get it adjusted and try it out. Unfortunately it WILL have to wait, as I have more cleaning and sanding and painting. I guess you folks already know what I am finding out. In my first attempt at a refurb....The deeper you go the more problems one encounters. Found a broken seat pan bracket and my 48" mower deck has severe metal fatigue and a crack that is not going to last the summer....But anyway a few pics of the pedals and my feeble attempt at painting. I hope to learn enough this year, so I can take it down to the frame next year. So that gives me a year to learn to weld and paint...

I'm not an expert in these eras, but I can narrow it down to an 855 or 856, assuming the belt guard is still original. They are all pretty much the same tractor from different model years. They will have differences but they will be minor. The battery should be on a tray behind the engine, but it looks like the tray is missing. The seat has been replaced but all of that's no big deal if he enjoys it! And other than that... just the wrong color... Looks like its in pretty good shape! If you can still read the spec and serial number on the engine that will get us the year, also assuming its original.

I'll be the biggest kid there. Down to days and the weather looks good. Should be an excellent day to finally start the garden tractor season.

Sorry about the poor images. I finished my test and the following picture shows one of Mayhews decals at the bottom. It is a 3mil vinyl which looks screen printed and then a 9 mil thick heavy gloss vinyl laminate and cut with a die. the decal in the middle is made using a 4 color solvent ink process on 3 mil digital wrap air escape vinyl and 1 layer of gloss 3 mil laminate for a 6 mil thick decal. the top 500 special hood stand decal was made the same way but I added 2 more layers of clear gloss 3 mil laminate to make it a total of 12 mil thick. I find the 9 mil laminate on Ed's reproductions still have a deeper finished look due to it being one thick layer as opposed to three thinner layers? Anyway I am pretty sure the original 500 specials came with white wheels and white background decals. Hopefully someone can chime in that has a clean original to verify. Many of the tractors from the 60s were exposed to the elements and the white begins to yellow a bit. I am probably wrong but my theory is that if the wheels were white the decals were also and if the wheels were linen beige then they used decals that had a linen beige background to match the wheel color? THE COLORS ARE OFF A BIT DUE TO THE CAMERA ANGLE AND LIGHTING.

Everyone on this forum has a problem! And what a wonderful problem it is to have! Haha!! :-P

PM me with a list of what you want. Ed Mayhew works 2 miles from where I live and I will try to get in touch with him.

Yes you do have a problem! I didn't see any round hoods, or other vintage on your list; you have only scratched the surface.

Big ole shot of salt to an already painful wound there. Nice tractor though!

He makes Wylie Coyote look like Verner Von Braun !!

Shouldn't be long Brandon. All the mechanical stuff is done, and the only two pieces that haven't been painted are the hood and fender pan, although they are both primed.

​ Sorry for your loss... here's a pict of mine to ease your pain.

Early last year I learned that my grandparents were Wheel Horse dealers from 1966-1974. Since then I have devoted a lot of my time to researching the brand and beginning my own collection of Wheel Horse tractors. Since the time I learned of my grandparents connection to Wheel Horse, I thought it would be neat to find a tractor that they sold new. Last summer I got a lead and went to look at a tractor that was supposedly sold by my grandparents. The tractor was a nicely optioned 12 Automatic that the owner used primarily for plowing his driveway. Despite my attempts to purchase the tractor, the owner was not yet ready to sell. Last week he got in touch and told me that he just bought a new Toro zero turn mower and was now ready to part with the old tractor because he didn't have any more room in his garage. The only catch was that he wanted to keep the original snow plow that came with the tractor to mount on a newer 416 he had. Wanting to keep the tractor and plow together, I offered to trade him an NOS classic series snow plow for his tractor. Yesterday I went and picked up the tractor and today I bought a new battery and started working to clean it up a little. The tractor was used extensively and has a few repairs here and there, but overall is in good mechanical condition. This tractor still remains the only one I have come across so far from my grandparent's dealership. It was kind of special to return the tractor back to my grandparents store (where I work on some of my tractors) where it was sold new over 42 years ago. I plan on keeping the tractor as-is for now, but will eventually try to repaint it and at least give it a cosmetic restoration. Here is the tractor after I started cleaning it up. Here is an ad that ran in the local newspaper in 1973 for their store.

Saw this on the local MD CL. Maybe someone can at least photoshop it. Does it have higher - or lower resale like this?

Hey guys, this is my first post to the engine section and I'm going to need a lot of advice on what I need to do. I'm restoring a 1972 Charger 12 and the engine is pretty much the last piece of the puzzle. I just recently rebuilt the hydro and now I'm moving on to the engine. My knowledge of engines is novice at best...this tractor has been my first resto with anything that has an engine or a transmission...up until now it's been all machine tools. This engine may be fine and not need a thing but I won't learn by just busting a little rust and slapping on a new paint job. It is my intent to get this thing running like a top before its all said and done. Before I took anything apart, I jumped the battery cables to a good battery and it did turn over. Correct me if I'm wrong but that means the solinoid and stater are good and the motor isn't locked up.? After that, I took it off the tractor and it's sat on the work bench until this evening. If you guys would....please tell me you observations based on the pictures I posted.

This is a most unwieldy apparatus ever designed....accordingly, almost impossible to describe how to put it together. You only need one of the half-moon shape parts and onlyu one of the idler pulleys that have a 'stem' on it. I will try to chase down some schematics that should help.... my direct email is: daveoman@fwindstream.net contact me there as it is much easier for me to send pics and stuff in regular emails.

Why the extra height on the Bell Crank? Will you be parting out the PTO on this tractor or just saving them?

Chris- nice unit! Along the same line Stevasaus said- but I believe its hunting because its LEAN from lack of fuel-jets partially plugged-run some SEAFOAM thru it- Al

Well after all of the research on custom vs. off-the-shelf utility trailer, I ended up buying a stock trailer. I did go wider than I had planned but stuck to the 12' length. It is a 2015 Sure Trac 6'x12' Tube Top. It came standard with LED lights, flip-down plus removable gate, setback jack, and radials. Now to figure out additional tie-down points besides the standard ones, and a removable winch mount. Has anyone ever mounted a crane?

Found all the 520-8's

In fact I found the tag it says: T 855 ser. 116127. Will try to track down the year

I have been helping a friend of mine clean up some property and did some work on the work tractor a couple of weeks ago. While cleaning up, I peeked under a tarp in the back yard and this is what was under there. I brought it home today. Not sure what year it is so if anyone has any info, I'd appreciate it. So far seems to have an older rattle can paint job. Tires are original but rotten. Actually the seat and tires are the worst part of the whole tractor. Plans are to get it running and clean it up. I'll see what I have to work with after a good power washing. And the required pictures.

Can't figure out why the "R" plate was installed on a fan cover that has the electric starter bump out on it; lets just call it a 34-R/E.

Another confirmed case of that dreaded WHA.

That's a nice collection. Some time ago when asked how many guns did I actually have(?), I used that time-tested answer "More than I need, not as many as I want..." Guessing that answer could be applied to just about anything...

I received the extended steering bell crank back from my welder, and ground down some of the weld just to make it look a little more presentable . I sprayed a couple coats of paint on and it turned out OK. I still need to have a couple bushings cut and welded together, but I am waiting for the N.O.S. one to come in the post. Click on image to enlarge.

I just found these photos a few weeks ago. This is the first car that I ever bought, purchased in 1984. It is an early model 1966 Porsche 912, which was basically a 911 but with a Porsche four cylinder instead of the flat six. It wasn't really a practical car—more than once I had to wait on parts to arrive from Stuttgart, Germany, but I did love that car and how I wish I still had it. Couldn't afford to buy one today, as their collectibility continues to rise. The first car that was mine to drive, but not "officially mine" was our family's 1976 Malibu Classic Wagon...Last of the Great Wagons! (Hit some pretty big milestones in the back of that machine. ) In college, I drove the burgundy 79 'Vette (as in Chevette) parked in the background behind the Porsche in the photo above. And my last sports car was this 1984 Dodge Daytona Turbo that I bought in 1986. Not all that impressive by today's standards, but it sure was in its day. When that turbo spooled up it would pin your head against the seat and you damn well better have a firm grip on the wheel or that front wheel drive would jerk it right out of your hands! Interesting side note about this photo: It was taken when I put this car up for sale. I washed and waxed it and then drove around looking for a good spot to snap a photo. I ended up here, in front of a random building on the University of Richmond campus (where I was not a student nor did I have any connection there). When I found this photo a month or so ago, I realized that 27 years later, this is the very same building, and very same doors I walk through when I meet with the largest (by far) client of my freelance design business. Go figure!

To make a note for anyone coming back to this thread, the original IPL calls out TWO roll pins: 1/4" then a 5/32" driven inside the 1/4". I repaired it by drilling it out to 5/16" and then driving in a (standard carbon steel) 5/16" roll pin followed by a 7/32" roll pin. Fixed it right up!

That is not the original engine according to the serial number. If I understand correctly, the 4-digit serial on a Tecky doesn't give a specific unit number but a date code. The first digit is the year of the decade (example 9xxx is '59, '69, '79 etc.) and the next three digits are the calendar day. All Tecky engines built that day would have the same serial number as well as engines built ten years earlier or later. I don't know how long they used that system, but your engine was probably built Oct 27, 1969. Possibly Oct. 27, 1979.

Nice Wheel Horse Mels. Nice avatar too.

I had a little time to look it over good this afternoon. I couldn't look too much yesterday because it was raining something awful and there was tornado warnings where I was. I figured I couldn't go wrong for a hundred bucks so I paid the man and watched him and his buddy load it and I proceeded to get ahead of the storm.Now that I look at it the transmission is locked or rusted up the spark plug is missing and the motor wont turn. The motor tins are rotten and the hood needs some repair. The mower deck won't turn and the wheels on the leaf sweeper won't roll. All considering I am real fortunate to find an 854 of any condition in Ga. I think maybe with a little pb blaster, blood sweat and tears, a little guidance from some of you experts, anything is possible. I don't have some of the tools that would make it easy but I have enough to make it interesting.

A little update on what I have been up to with this 416-H. This project and the threads about it, have gone off on many tangents. From distressed metal, to oil leaks, to motion control issues, and much more. But I think I am coming down the home stretch. Oil leaks seem to have been resolved, motion control issues were mainly wear, and all the cracked, distressed metal has either been replaced or welded. I am in the process of painting a few things now that the weather is a little more cooperative. As I said earlier, this is not one of my full blown restorations, as I plan to use this one, not just ride it around at shows. While my wife was at work today, I fired up the oven in the kitchen to 170 degrees and threw a few painted pieces in for an hour. That sure reduces the cure time on paint, and tends to give it a little more gloss. It's a shame I can't get the fender pan and hood in. Oh, before you ask, I know that I am always touting the many benefits of acrylics, but because this is a worker, I am painting it with Case-IH Iron Gard alkyd paint, IH Red 2150. This is the closest thing I have found to the old Valspar Restoration Series, and you can't beat the price of under $18.00 per quart.

Got a few more coats on. Seat Pan/fender done...Ran out of sanding discs. So I put the footrest in place and adjusted the Hydro pedal, I think I have it adjusted pretty well, goes fully into reverse and looks like its fully into forward. Returns correctly to neutral. It also clears the floorboard almost an inch. Need to work on the brake, which has never worked. Cleaned back end. Anyone find a substitute location for the Neutral switch? I have read an lot of threads over the course of the last weeks, but I have not seen anyone who moved it. I can deal with not having it...

I get that it has a battery...but it also has a recoil. I also know that the list is not perfect, but if you look at the list, the spec # for the 34E is #75064B...the 34R spec # is 75063B...his plate says 63B. Where is TT for this one???

Everyone get their magnifying glasses out! Top This will begin shortly!

I'll be there if I don't have to work, Steve.

4hour drive to part it out...not gonna make much if any thing on it. Better to save it...besides, you wanted a 854 anyhow. I saved mine, and am very happy with it. Good luck either way.

Here are a couple pics.

I am relatively new to the hobby, but was thinking of coming to this show/swap meet since it not that far away from me. I would like to bring my family, is this pretty kid and newbie friendly?

Down to just two weeks away. Looking forward to seeing everyone.

Thanks guys...Stevebo, I feel the same way. Look for Buckrancher and me popping over on Thursday for a few cold ones.

Who can resist the sound of Kohlers running in the morning!

We will be coming in from the Detroit area, and usually stay in Warsaw In take your pick on the hotel/motel most major chains are represented

@Gary - there were at least four different "reds" used between 1946 and now - and that doesn't include formula variance, mixing error, application technique, and difference between brands/suppliers. Modern aersol paints may be close, but none are an exact match to the actual paint used by Wheel Horse and/or Toro. (and that includes their own touch-up paint) Choosing the "proper" red for a Wheel Horse is much like throwing a hand grenade...... all you need to do is get it close.