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We picked up about 7 inches of very heavy wet snow today. So much in fact that they had to shut down nearby Interstate 80 for about a 40 mile stretch. It just dumped snow for hours over Southern Clinton County! And you know what..................I didn't get one tractor out! Notta! Know why? Cause I don't give a damn anymore about snow! I have had way too much seat time plowing, blowing and scoop n dumping! Nope! I shoveled 10 feet of sidewalk from the porch to the garage! Didn't even put the truck away tonight! Didn't want to drown the garage again with melting snow! March came in like a lion and left like a T-Rex in menopause! Tomorrow is April fools day! It's a new month and maybe, just maybe.......................I'll see something other than white in my yard! Hell I may even grease a mower deck or two. Even sharpen those thingys that spin under them that cuts the stuff that used to stick up and grow green in my glacier, I mean yard! AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Hi all. So today I finally was able to get out and cut the grass. I enjoyed it very much but the trouble is I couldn't use my horse. Or well, we all can't get the candy... So here is what I cut. I think the blade on the scissors aren't sharp enough as I missed a few pieces. LOL

Some great photo's there guy's Here's a few more for you.

In 1962 they introduced the 62-xxxx serial numbers for tractors and A-xxxx serial numbers for attachments. In 1963 they continued with the 62-xxxx serials for the first batch of 953 tractors (62-137 to 62-928) Keep in mind this would have happened in 1962 for the 1963 model year. The next tractor serials are 62-20610 to 62-25718. Next is tractor serial 26210 without the 62- prefix so it looks as though they disregarded the 62- prefix in 1963 model year to use up the decals. The A-xxxx serials continued on the 1963 attachments. The last 1963 model year tractor serial is 47957. In 1964 the only old decals they had left were the A-xxxx so they ended up on tractors and attachments. (A-50086 to A-75181) This again would have started in 1963 for the 1964 model year. Then the serials run 3301 to 49725 - last 1964 serial recorded. I suspect when they had enough parts to build a particular model they assigned a serial to each unit - tractor or attachment and everything went to the assembly line. The next eligible model of tractor or attachment got the next batch of serials. After the 62-xxxx and A-xxxx serial decals were exhausted the serial numbers are consecutive so numerically the batches of tractors and batches of attachments are mixed. Later on they added a build date to the vin plates. When you see these batches it is evident the date used is the date they assigned the serial numbers to the batch - not the actual build date. When you check the dates it often happened on the same day of each week so must have been part of a routine. It was even done on Saturdays and Sundays which is likely an indication of how busy they were. Not uncommon to see batches of tractor models and batches of attachments with the same build date. Many of the Julian build dates are wrong. Say in 1975 they were scheduling 1976 models for production but they used a 1976 build date. When the 1976 calendar arrived they started using the correct Julian date. This happened more than one year. It has been said the company fiscal year ended in October so that coincides with the following model year product being released in October of the previous year like they do with autos today. Garry

I posted in the thread - what's in your mirror about this tractor. I figured since I am going to be doing some work on it I may as well start a thread on it. This tractor was purchased from Baerpath this past weekend. He bought it was and never got around to doing anything with it. The lower wiring harness caught fire and the PO shut it off and put the fire out. He then sold it and I ended up with it. I have been looking for an xi series tractor for a while but the current owners had them all priced at what they should be (too much for me). Knowing this one needed work Baerpath gave me a good deal on it. I already replaced the burnt wiring with Fireman's help yesterday and I did a nice job soldering all the connections. Jeff looked up the parts that were needed and I ordered them. They will hopefully be here by the end of the week. I had some free time today so I started to pull the sheet metal off to take a look at what the underside looked like and get it cleaned up. Well here is what I found... After a lot of cleaning with the pressure washer I was able to get it nice and clean. I plan on touching up some areas on the frame to stop any rust and while the tins are off I may just have to sand them down and paint them. I think I will really like using this one so it will by no means be a show piece rather a nice clean worker. I was told the decals are NLA so I guess Terry may have to draw these up....

Pick up a nice Wheel horse 1054 today from a Canada fellow today. Runs nice and comes with a nice plow. The tractor doesn't need much just a good tune up and probably going to use this one as a worker. I will have to order headlight lenses from glen actually make that 2 set since I have two 1054s now. Are these becoming rare tractors now?

Guys, had a little time this afternoon to check it out. Here is where we are at. Tractor up on jacks and no wheels. Both axles have no up and down or side to side play and about an 8th of an inch in and out. No leaks. Engine running, in gear, screwdriver to ear (don't recommend this if any of you still have long hair or worse a mullet), no knocks can be heard. I think Brandon maybe on to something. With the engine off and turning the break drum I can hear the knock in the front of the trans. Don't know if its a baring or the shaft or a gear, but when the engine is running and in gear the drum doesn't turn that fast. No sure if I'm explaining this well. Will be going out of town to sister for the rest of this week for Easter in Maryland. Hope its warm. Will continue this sometime next week. Thanks for all the help so far, Chris from Florida Also, I'm leaving Thursday morning so I won't be messing with the tractor a lot but I will be checking tonight and tomorrow for any updates.

I bought this with the intention of using it. It ran great, but it did not move. I figured the hydro was shot, It did not leak any fluid like when I had to replace the hydro pump in other d series I own. I figured, since Ihave to pull the motor, I should give it a paint job and clean up. The pump was fine, it was only the coupler. Here is how it turned out.

Finally a decent day. Spent about an hour cleaning up dog muffins from the winter and cleared a path to get the RJ out of the shed so I can finish work on it. Couldn't resist putting a little Tru-Fuel in it and spinning it over. I didn't get the rope too hot like I used to on the Teckys! 4 or 5 pulls and it was running I have 6 Kohlers and 5 of them will only start with the throttle closed. Only the Sqonkfest 1267 wants the throttle open. Short video of up the street and back. Don't know if the neighborhood is ready for a Circus Bear on a Tricycle yet. Pardon the fat fingers in the beginning. I was so overwhelmed being able to "Horse Around" again I wasn't paying attention!

I have noticed some members are epoxying the gas tank straps to the underside of the hood on an RJ. what epoxy are you using and how has it held up. For some reason I have one strap that needs to be moved about an inch and a half in order to hold the tank correctly. Or I have an incorrect tank.Thanks.

The video shows it running!! I am not sure how to change that video to play. For some reason when I take videos on my phone when I email them myself so I can save it to my computer that is the format. If anyone can change the video and repost please feel free.

The diodes are built into the voltage regulator.

These models have a driveshaft back to the eaton 1100 tranny. The coil and the igniter came in the mail today so I got them installed. The seat safety switch was already bypassed by PO so I thought I might be able to start it without putting the seat pan back on. I noticed that there was another connection that looks like it is for the cruise control so I put the pan back on, connected that and tried to fire it over. I also took off the foot control pedals which was necessary to pull the foot boards off. There are two, one is forward and reverse and the other one is an emergency stop. Well the emergency stop is also to get start. I found out after a little testing with the amp meter. When I turned the key there was no power going to the starter. I figured the brake needed to be pushed in and she turned over. After a few attempts to get it to fire I pulled the plugs and found that the right side had great spark and the left side had nothing (this side has the new coil on it), After poking around some more I found one of the wire connections to that coil came lose SO...... plugs back in and ................................ (hope the video works) ... First start after new wiring.MOV

Update: So i did a little work in the garage and here is what happened: First I took my grease gun and completely greased the steering set-up. Its all moves nice and smooth now and I also raised the steering shaft collar a hair to firm up the steering wheel. Then I removed the old wiring and gauges. Since the new motor has all of this self contained in a nice little box, I stripped the tractor down to just the throttle cable. I then took the choke handle and put it on the throttle lever shaft so I can grip it better. I then placed the new non bypass Wix filter onto the tranny. I still have to get a new drain plug before i fell the case up with Mobile 1 syn but I'm getting there. Now the best part of the day was me getting a little closer to figuring out how to mount the engine. Well I did some removing of the engine gas tank along with the electrical box down. I also removed the battery box on the tractor and this allowed me to move the whole engine in more and the hood now completely closes and the tractor hoop I think will work fine with an idea I have cooking. I finally used my impact and removed the blades off the deck. I then used the flap disk on my mini grinder to remove all of the rust from the blades. I then sharpened them and painted them black. While waiting for the paint to dry I used my wire brush and removed all of the old grass clipping from the deck. No rust holes! Yeah. I also took the air compressor and blew out all of the old grass and mud from inside the baffles. They are much cleaner now. Lol. To top it all off I lightly coated the whole deck with some used motor oil. I heard from lawnsite that some of the pro do this to help down the rust on their decks and such. I don't know but will find out. Well, that all for now. Hopefully this weekend some magic will happen with that motor. Hint, hint.

I think I see a Chia Pet..... Get it ?

You can, and it will be a direct swap, but you asked what new motor to put on it. Any motor will work if you have the time and know how to put it together. So did you even check the old motor for compression, or are just jumping around with no direction?

I used sum stuff called red kote

Update on 321-8 project. Added some new 25-900-12 All Trail II. had to modify the fender, raised it 1 3/4" and bend the foot board uprights forward on the out side to clear. Added a receiver hitch while raising the fender. It's attached to the top of the transmission and the axle housing. Also add 1/8" x1 1/2" to the top of the hood stand where the rear fender attaches they are only bolted with the original bolts, plan to weld them later. Added some 1/4" x 1 1/2" braces to the front of the transmission. Removed the rocker arm and cable and added a wench to lift rear equipment. Had a bent spindle and straightened it in the vice with a 6" long 1" pipe. Welded some 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle braces to the spindles. Here is the pictures. You can see the 1/8" steel under the shifter plate. Would need some holes with the height adjuster or hydro.

check half way down page Brian

I would check the hubs for a worn key-way. If not that, it's time to go inside the transmission something is loose. I had to replace the roller bearings in my 312 they were making noise in a hard pull, but just a grumbling sound. There is one picture of the transmission open in this tread.

Wow Ian that is looking amazing, I have one question though. How many people does it take to lift it off and on the table, it must weigh a fair old bit now?

Mom was worried about you in your younger days. Going to work in a garage sporting a Mullet. Then she caught you that one day with that screwdriver stuck in your ear trying to diagnose that water pump noise on that Buick with the giant fan. You had that brand new tie on she just got you and it was just bouncing off the fan blades! Sure were some grumpy faces at dinner that night after all that yelling! And who here think you know what your talking about? In all seriousness (I think) Great advise from everyone here.You can also get an inexpensive stethoscope at an auto parts store They work great for those of us who are impaired. All hail the Dino!

Thanks. It's getting there.. That's why I've not done the prop shaft yet Well, the steering saga continues.. But not for much longer Although the steering kinda worked, it had two main problems. One of them was the Ackerman angle thingy, being not quite right.. A play with moving the track rods a bit higher got it better.. But the main problem was all down to the gearing in the 90 degree steering box thingy.. Lock to lock was only an 8th of a turn of the steering wheel, which of course made the steering very heavy! The only other 90 degree box thingy I have is this odd shaped, very heavy and totally unsuitable for the job final drive from the Honda SilverWing which donated it's engine to a higher cause So a bit of a rethink was needed.. This steering arm was made from 3 bit's of 6mm thick steel.. It fit's here, under the left hand steering pivot hub thingy.. It's on tacked on in this photo.. The steering box thingy was rotated 90 degrees to the right, tilted 90 degrees to the left, reunited with it's original base, and bolted to the flat grey plate that was moved from under the chassis rails to above... I hope you followed that If you did manage to follow the above then you will of guessed by now that Why Not is going lever steer A rather long rod connecting both sides together.. Lock to lock is now a tad under half a turn of the steering wheel which is much better and the steering turns much easier.. Which is nice I think I may well move the connecting rod bit's to behind the hubs which will stop them getting bent should a tree ever be foolish enough to get in the way Oh.. And the steering column needs to be shortened

The closest thing I've found is here: http://www.websterchain.com/Markets/Foundry.aspx Master catalog, class H mill chain. I'm not going to replace four sprockets if I don't have to. And though the wear on my chain track is into the pins, I don't think I'll ever have to worry about wearing them out. My tractor is over 60 years old, it was used, and used hard. The 15 to twenty hours a year it will get used now won't mean a thing. Jason here did something a little different with thick walled pipe.

well you guys would lol if you combined what I look like and what I listen too. I am a fan of the 30's and 40's so Big band and swing are my favorite. If i am in a modern mood I jike contemporary Jazz. But I am a music fan of all kinds of blues to blue grass and anything in between. I really like the new "younger" people picking up old styles of music. I have to thank Xm Radio for opening my eyes to the world of music. been a Xm listener since the 1st few months, I have a account number under 80K lol. best money for entertainment a person can spend.

also make sure your flywheel key is fitting all the way down into the keyway.

Some of the chain you can recondition yourself. I used 1" schedule 40 steel pipe to replace the small protective sleeves or rollers over the joints. I cut the pipe into 1" lengths, cut them down the side, opened them up with a chisel and removed a small amount of material. Placed them over the pin joints and hammered them closed. Sounds like more work than it is. But it lengthened the life of the chain and protects the areas that were worn and eating into the chain itself. Of course you will still need sprockets.

Are there any washers or anything between the nut that are missing?some engines that have starter cups and washers wont fit completely on right if the washers and starter cup are missing.yours being electric start wouldn't have a starter cup nut may be missing some kind of washers.

Just spoke with Terry and the new decals will be printed tomorrow

good seeing you out and about Mike that gas cap is standard kohler part you can get them at any kohler dealer

The sun will come out tomorrow Boo.

Tonight I was able to get the chassis, screens and front grill painted. Bought a new battery and battery cables too. Here are a few pics as it sits tonight. I also had some time after work to pressure wash one of the 520's that I picked up last fall.

I bought a tank stand off of a '63 753 to replace my cut-up tank stand on my 854. It too had a 62-XXXX serial number. My guess is that Wheel Horse didn't want to waste anything, so they kept using the 62-XXXX prefix serial numbers for '63. I don't know if all '63's used the prefix, but I'm guessing they did. Then, in '64, Wheel Horse used a completely different numbering system. My 854 is serial # 40927.

Rebuilding an 8 Speed for a C-111, hopefully no bearing problems/Gremlins after i put it together

OK the seven is a 1. Piece of dirt and old eyes I guess. 62-18234. I have another one that is a 62-8627

Eric, trying to guess what's wrong with this stuff is one of my favorite things to do. I am not always correct either, but I have guessed right once or twice. That is why a lot of people on here think I know what I am talking about. Just another thought here...when you push a horse in neutral...obviously, both wheels are turning in the same direction. This means that you are rotating the differential housing and turning that mushroom gear, but not the input shaft. This is why I think it is the mushroom gear bearing. If that bearing is bad, it would cause enough slop to do what is going on. If there is a thing that bothers me here...it is the low hours on the horse. Chris...we used the screw driver trick back in the service station days to listen for a bad lifter and identify it in the 6 and 8 cylinder engines. It works like a champ.

sorry i'm not always right just trying to help. i know i've over looked the obvious in the past but you learn from your mistakes eric j

i've had belts that chunked and cause a knocking noise so i say check the belt before taring it down, good luck eric j

This one you just gona fell in love whit Steve.. lol lots of power and great sound from that Vtwin engine. i got new decals from Terry to my LXI and they are awesome!!!

I hear you on that ken but let me tell you this is no craftsman !!

Snapped a couple of my "favorite girl" ( mom's Emily ) Her " the rubber mouse is right over there " face . And the " I really don't want to be bothered right now " face .

wow, even with controls not quite sorted out... I'd be at the helm trying to point in a somewhat safe direction and firing that bad boy off! like my big brother pushing me down the hill in the radio flyer congrats on the progress stig

Nice Place Ian!! I love the nice "Tractor table"too!!

You moving right along....great work.

Nice shed and careful digging. Might be a good idea to wear a hard hat!

Anytime I clean my workshop area its good for a day or two and then its right back to being a mess.... . Hopefully you can keep its cleaner that I could! Mike...........

This is one of two grey foxes that came every nite about eight for a meal we set out. My wife could tell them apart and named them Fredy & Freida.

Here's the info for the backhoe:

here they are