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94 or 95? 94 or 95?

Picked this little jewel up yesterday, It runs B&S side shaft motor,

I bought this Wheel Horse tractor late last summer. The po was in the process of converting it into a puller by mounting John Deere round fenders and seat, 26-12-12 tires, and a foot throttle accelerator on it. The engine was also replaced. I know the model number is 1-0110 which is on the steering column tag. That tells me this tractor was originally a 1972 Commando 800. Apparently the hood was previously repainted and the wrong decals for a Commando 8 were put on it. I also know the Commando 800 was only made in 1972. Does anyone here at RedSquare know how many Commando 800's were manufactured in 1972 and if this model is somewhat rare since it was only manufactured for one year? The reason I ask is that I already bought replacement Commando 800 foot rests and seat pan from RS member funengineer. I'm now thinking it might be easier for me to restore this tractor back into a stock 1972 Commando 800 rather than continue down the puller track (no pun intended). So, I am looking for your opinions... what do y'all think???

OMG...Rick picks Iowa St....Koen picks SMU...Notre Dame gets through the 1st round...if this is not about "private E-Mails" and "global Warming" and ...well, I could go on and on... The next thing that could happen...Purdue beats Cincinnatti and Ohio St. beats VCU...OH OH...Ohio St beat VCU...OK...Al Gore decides to run in 2016. Brett Farve is coming back to Green Bay. Francis Tarkington...wait for it...1/4 back for the Vikings. Mike Ditka...new coach for the Bears..2015. The Cubs (Holy Cow) lose in the World Series. Kentucky goes undefeated...NOT!!! THE GLACIERS ARE MELTING...MOVE TO HIGHER GROUND.

Already sold the 1045 lol

Nothing wrong with installing it, grabbing a favorite beverage, having a seat and just enjoying the view.

Nobody picked Iowa State to win....did they?

Well if its not to late ,, you guys have it wrong,, As much as I like Wisconsin this year , my final four "Arizona - Oklahoma - Kentucky - Iowa St" Arizona taking home the prize.

My money is on a bad or poorly grounded condenser. Since it idles fine with no blowback thru the carb, a burnt valve is unlikely. Also make sure the coil is wired correctly. ..points wire to negative post.

There's always a first for everything.

We had a nice day here so had the horses out to play a little and got sum pics

Here is what im talking about. Im not talking about parting out machines that are too far gone. there are many good parts on the d 180 i could show you a ton more tractors like the 520h being parted out and most body parts are easley fixed by sanding and re painting i just cant see parting out good tractors for fenders and hoods i realize they buy them and can do what they want but at the rate they are junking these there will not be any left for future collectors From the same seller.

Thanks for the information. I've seen the rebuild videos from stevasaurus. Without them, I probably wouldn't have even attempted to do this myself.

T 1067 - 1967 Wheel Horse Lawn & Garden Tractor 8-Speed Kohler K241S-46333D 10hp Model 5060. Original owner - purchased by my Dad in 1967. RL42 Mower Deck. 40" Brinley De-thatcher. 40" Brinley Plug Aerator.

I've always wanted a pressure washer and figured that the attachamatic on the front of the horse would make a great mounting point. I've been collecting parts for a few weeks and finally got a chance to put this together. Here is a shot of the mock-up with the pulley attached to the pump. The pump is 4.0 gpm at 4000 psi and the pulley size puts the engine rpms at 3000. I had an old mule drive that I had used the shaft and pulleys for another project. I added a few pieces of tubing and angle to mount the pump and a fancy "patented" tensioner. I removed the original tensioning screw and added a hook in the rear that locks the whole assembly rigidly to the attachamatic. It works. Now its all disassembled for some paint. It takes about 3 min to install and put on the belt.

I added a new horse to the herd tonight! I have always wanted a 953 and now I finally have one! I paid $250, but it does need some TLC. Needs a seat first of all, and some lights, but it does runs very well with no smoke. Also it pops out of 3rd gear so the tranny needs some attention. The hydraulics seem to work well though. Oh yeah, and i also drug home what was left of a 1045 lol. It was a great day!

And you had to think about and ask if it was worth it?

Put it back together and run it like you intend to work it. You haven't run it long enough to seat the rings. I never take it easy on a rebuild. Put it together and start working it.

Steve, you need professional help

I got it all out just have to get packaged up it a bit odded shape and want to make it fit in a small box to keeping shipping costs down for Frank I was going to give him a call this weekend

No problem Mike. Just keep on working so we keep getting our checks.

Lawn and Garden Tractor Magazine & HAPCO will be there!

I will at some point , as my grand farther used to say " when the spirit moves me" I never knew what he meant when I was a kid,..now I do.

super nice 953 good find, those front tires on that 1045 are worth getting the tractor hard tires to find I'm sure you would not have any trouble selling those if you wanted too..

Thanks for the help. I did not specifically check if there was any in/out play in the input shaft, but I do not remember any. I don't plan on using the tractor too hard, just snow plowing and towing a small garden trailer. Would it be worth it to just replace the input gear while I have it apart? Really, the only reason I have the tractor is because it's been in my family (or with a close family friend) since new. My grandfather originally purchased it to give my dad and uncles a job, mowing and plowing for neighbors.

I have a couple descent 3523 gears left...They are getting hard to come by..I just tore down 12..3-4 speed Transmissions and only a couple of them had descent 3523 gears..I also have just about anything else if you would need it...Let me know.

59xxxxx serial number = 1995 49xxxxx would indicate 1994 You did well! I purchased a 96 w cab and single stage 110 hours for $500 a few years back. Traded it for a 314h. I typically regret it when I'm burying the 2 stage in a large snow bank. If you're planning on using the blower it's probably time for some maintenance. The auger bushings are junk. A few members have replaced them with greasable bearings available at TSC. Rear impeller bearing needs grease and looking after. And the chain and tensioner wear quickly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lucky man!!!

I still feel badly about that BUT I am also glad I wasn't IN the wagon when it was hit. My head doesn't need any more jarring...

I need a hood for an 1964 854. It has holes in it and lets assume that its rusted beyond repair (i.e. welding, putty, etc. wont work). How do I replace that if someone doesn't sell me a used one that's not rusted out already? I agree that its sad to see so many quick fix machines being parted out sometimes, but it is not economical to reproduce every part. My hood for example, was stamped out on a very large die that may or may not still exist, but the man-hours to recreate that by hand would cost 3-5 TIMES what the whole tractor is worth. (If I am wrong, please get me a price quote!) Another example is the infamous 1533 bearing. People have been trying to find a replacement for that for years. Bearing manufacturers wont even answer your emails if your production run is under 10-50,000 units. At probably $10-20 a piece wholesale, who has that kind of money to invest in a long-shot? TORO does, and even they have stopped making it... If not for the guys on here pulling them out of good transmissions we would have none (or they would be selling on eBay for $200 each because of the low supply and high demand), and the chances of that bearing being totally shot on a beat-to-death tractor are probably greater than 60%. Like i said, sad to see some go, but I am personally very glad that I have a source to buy good parts from. (Now their resale pricing, is another story... I think from some parts dealers its far too high. But supply and demand and all that yadda yadda )

I came home to this yesterday courtesy of Mollie and Morgan. This was a full box!

Going to put a B1G Team in the 4 just because... I'm really on the fence, but Wisconsin..... Also, my Cinderella team is Wyoming to make the final 4. < Probably not happening since Villanova has got such a great program, but we have seen better fall to less! Rob

Well that is a first.... Buy the tractor for just the attachment.

So I finally got the brake drum off and the case opened up. As suspected, the 3523 Hi/2nd gear is worn. Anybody have one they are willing to part with? Also, I noticed some rust on the axle starting at the differential case, extending about 2". Is that common and/or something to be concerned with? I was a little short on time tonight, so I went right for what I thought was the issue. Hopefully I can inspect everything else tomorrow night.

...and it's for sale. I'll post it in the classifieds later. Here's the full picture. The real reason I bought it was to get this:

PAINT IT RED AND IT WILL RUN BETTER.

I think the answer depends on what you use the machine to do. The tri ribs cited by Pete are great (as I have read) in the snow (and maybe dirt) to keep the tractor going where you want it. They may not be so good as a turf tire. If all you do is cut grass, a 2 ply turf tire will do fine. If you put a loader on it, you will need a 4 or 6 ply front tires. If you snow plow or snow blow, the tri tibs or Vredestein multi rib tires are a good choice. No one tire fits all chores, that is why many of us have more than one tractor. Just my opinion as well.

Hey Al, the snow finally melted on the north side of my house, so I gave the Commando 8 a chance to pull the roller up the steepest part of my lawn. The 8HP thumper in second gear really sounded happy pulling the roller up the slope. On the flat part it was third gear at idle.

The third gear issue is going to be the hook up between the 3523 Hi/2nd gear and 3522 input gear. here's a picture of a worn 3523 and a NOS. I would suggest starting by watching the videos here. A good inspection of everything and some pictures and you'll find all the help you'll need right here. It's really pretty straight forward once you get into it. For sure replace all the seals. I was typing when Jake posted. He's spot on.

A fresh rebuild ???? How many hours ??? and you have the head off already...what was the issue ?? Looks like it starting to score @ the dark area in the 1st pic & also in the last pic. Like Brandon said ...need to do the old fingernail test As a rule of thumb you run a fresh rebuild med to high RPMs to seat the rings

Awesome build... would like to see some video of it in action.

Glenn, the truck showed up about an hour later. by that time, he had gone to a neighbors house and plowed out their driveway. they were an elderly couple that had just moved here from Houston and only had a snow shovel, and about 75 ft of driveway. he's a good kid, he's always helping one of the neighbors with something

three blade mower deck for a RJ35 Brian

Here's our little babies. 3 year old Kahlua, a Yorkie and Baylee, a Shih Tzu/Pekingese-Dachshund/Chihuahua mix. She's 14 months old now and has developed a cherry eye so she's scheduled for surgery.

Here's my guys.

The is an item Chuck "Wheel-Mule" will be raffling off at the swap meet. He will be selling chances to win this item to help raise money for supporting Mentone Swap Meet expenses. He will be donating all proceeds from the raffle. Thanks for looking.

We would all like the Birthday Deal prices Chuck! I better bring you a cupcake or two!

Steve where are you getting that information my owners manual for 701,401 551 shows transmission #5010 used on a 401 as diff.case and gear as part #3502 ? Brian Brian, check on page 12 of this manual link (service notes)...it is a little confusing, and I am not positive about the part numbers, but there is a difference between the early and later differential housings and brake shaft gears. Here are 2 videos of the 3 differentials that I have seen that go into the #5003 and #5010 transmissions. Maybe they kept the same part number and just used the replacement gears. http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Transmissions/492-4004.pdf