Leaderboard

I've been a body man for 30 years, Lead is NOT for filling holes nor is Bondo, they are for filling dents or maybe pits, lead if you've never done it can be hard to master, I can do it but bondo is faster and cheaper, and no if done right bondo will not crack or fall out, it's not for making sculptures, its for finishing off dents or minor imperfections AFTER the metal has been repaired close to orig. and has been prepped properly, and I use Copper as a backer when welding holes shut, I have used brass but for me copper works better, if your not good at welding thin metal, might be best to farm it out to someone that is, once you warp the hood, you will have a VERY hard time fixing it after that, buy some sheet metal the same thickness or a junk hood and drill a few holes and practice, like I said you screw it up it could look worse than it did with a few holes in it.

I havn't got many new tractors in lately, at least nothing to post about, but this mini haul has a couple nice pieces in it, guy wanted it all to go to one buyer, and I was it, and only 45 min drive from home, and yes most will be up fore sale sometime, the main thing that caught my eye in the pics I seen was the 603 that looked pretty good, and I was pretty happy to find it looks like a complete unmolested survivor, and was told it was running when parked years ago, but had carb issues, common to Tecumsehs it's too cold to mess with it much but everything looks to be there and all orig. and other than a few dings and surface rust all in nice shape, except the deck that has a few holes, the Suburban 400 has a little newer 6hp Tecumseh in it I have not ran the numbers yet, tractor has been fixed up at some point, he was plowing with it last winter when the trans locked up, he said it runs great, he just put some money in the engine all new governor parts and gaskets along with a carb rebuild, gas tank looks like new inside, seat is very nice, overall a pretty nice machine, then I got boxes of spare parts a parts RJ58 tag is mostly there on it hood is fixable, some nice extra ag tires, duel wheel spacers, mower deck for the 400, lots of little stuff, I kinda miss getting the big hauls, so I guess small ones like this will have to do, til the next big one comes along. enjoy the pics

Well I started on another project yesterday, really should finish some others first but didn't have anything to do for the day, and this one was on the list of future restorations. I picked up the 400 at the big show from Scott Mehlberg as just a roller, and found most of the parts it needed at the show or already had them. I got it complete and running, and now I'm going to make it nice, the hood and fenders had been repainted, but weren't very nice, they were just rattle can and the hood had fish eyes in the paint. Here's a shot of it as I got it together and complete, not sure if I'm going to use the weight, think I like it better without but that may change down to just a roller and most of the parts are in this pile I won't be using the motor or trans out of this tractor, I already had a motor torn part way apart that will be going in this, don't have any pictures of it yet as its in a couple different locations....and the trans is already done and it was in its own seperate topic in the transmission section Hope to get most everything blasted tomorrow besides wheels, frame and hood, and start on body work, this will probably be a slow project, but should be able to get most of the body work done in the next month or so as its not in too bad of shape.Will add more pictures as I go along. Thanks, Jake

This past Christmas, one of my favorite gifts I got to give was a 47" 2 Stage Bervac Snowthrower for my 10 year old son's Wheel Horse. We went around town finding driveways we could plow and blow and the video is cleaning up some snow we piled up at a local Church. The snow was very wet as we got drizzle for about an hour, so the blower didn't throw it as far as I think it would if it was a little finer. I had my 11 yr cousin on my 518Xi and he was going behind the blower cleaning up what landed on the sidewalk. Pretty good teamwork. Thad (Ohio) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT7R4jYoHtc

this will take you back..

Thanks TT...that would explain it! For what it's worth, I did discover that when I got the old part out that someone had erroneously put one of the spacer washers between the steering shaft and base instead of on the "cotter pin" side. When I reinstalled the old shaft I put the washer (and one more shim) on the correct side and the steering hasn't jumped a single time, including in all the snow pushing I did last week. So, it's still a win!!!

I guess, depending on skill level and resources available any of the above maybe ok for most people. For me though, if the hole is sheet metal, that is what I'm putting back there, either by welding up with the mig, or if it's a big hole, cutting a blank the same thickness as the surrounding material and mig welding it in. I've never been happy with bondo filled holes in sheet metal, looks terrible from the back and unless you dish the repair area, it won't be an invisible repair from the good side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I guess, depending on skill level and resources available any of the above maybe ok for most people. For me though, if the hole is sheet metal, that is what I'm putting back there, either by welding up with the mig, or if it's a big hole, cutting a blank the same thickness as the surrounding material and mig welding it in. I've never been happy with bondo filled holes in sheet metal, looks terrible from the back and unless you dish the repair area, it won't be an invisible repair from the good side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rain didn't come through last night so the snow stayed pretty much intact. Turns out we were in one of the heavier bands of snow. The ice underneath started to cause problems with clogging. I didn't have problems with the two neighbors driveway that I did today (the third is in Florida - too bad) but when I went over mine that I cleared last night, a lot was turning to slush. The county truck has yet to come so I couldn't get down to the other two neighbors. I will probably need to plow them as we are going in to the low 40's today. Here is today's crew ready to get to work. I use the Ariens for my walk, and I will be getting a load of fuel this week so I will cut a path to my tank fill. And Paladin working.

Auto body lead is still used. www.eastwood.com

A copper welding spoon from Harbor Freight works for me. Less than $10 with a coupon. See it in action here: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/harbor-freight-welding-spoon.html. It's in the first part of the video. The guy is using it clamped for TIG, but you can hold it in place with one hand and MIG with the other.

My friend I bought my tractor from called and said he had something for me. It's amazing this stuff survived four owners in 46 years in new condition. It was quite a surprise when we met up!

I took this about 2 or 3 weeks ago. About an inch of stuff to clean up. Just having fun! Of course, this was the last time I will be using my 310-8 until the spring. I was having serious trouble finding gears (listen for some grinds ), and while I'm sure the fix isn't too hard (I think it's just the roll pin on the shifter) It is just too cold right now and I don't have enough space to tear down the back end of the tractor to fix it. Sorry about the filter, I had my phone on the wrong setting. it just made the whole ground tough to see. You can see what I'm plowing though, for the most part! Last night we got about 5" of snow, and then it slowly got warmer as the day went on, making the snow nice and heavy. Good use for the Work Horse with the blower!

Don't forget IF you use lead there are special prep things needed before painting and primers not RATTLE can stuff, if not done your paint job will show it, to buy the tools and supplies to do a CORRECT lead job will cost you more than you think, blast the pits and use a good grade of Auto body filler/Bondo, were not working with bondo from the 70's the stuff now days is easy and good stuff, you can buy a gallon that will last most of you a life time, not that it will be good that long, for under $40 try to buy it from a shop that sells paint supplies, they will have better grades of filler, NOT walmart or Auto Zone

1974/75 B-80 4 speed models were a "medium frame" with a (roughly) 43 1/2" wheelbase. 1976/77 B-80 8 speeds were "long frame" models with a (roughly) 45 1/2" wheelbase. The difference is in front of the footrest mounting bar, so the lower steering shafts are different lengths.

Kelly is spot on. Bondo and lead are toppings not fillers. I use either brass or copper as the backer when welding in holes. the trick that works for me is to use the backer on the finish side and weld it in from the back.

May be my age and arthritis, but operating the 520 blower at 5:30 AM this morning while sipping coffee and listening to the radio inside the 55 degree heated cab felt kinda nice. I will confess, after it warmed up to above 40F this afternoon, I got the 4 wheeler out and enjoyed some 20MPH clean up plowing.

The forecast was for 3"-5" of snow but changing to rain tonight. I wasn't sure what would still be remaining in the morning, so I thought that I would at least do my driveway. I was surprised when I went out as it was at 10" - and still coming down when I cleared this! Unfortunately the snowthrower makes more noise than the sweet sound of the diesel. I'm still only running a partial throttle until I get a tach installed, but I did bump it up about halfway through the second video. Tomorrow I'm going to try 1/2 throttle.

My newly gone over rebuilt 310-8 doing a fine job .

There are lots of how to's on the internet including videos. Just ask Mr. Google. Google something like: "filling a small hole in sheet metal" These are from Eastwood: http://www.eastwood.com/blog/project-pilehouse/how-to-shave-unused-holes/

Well its not Thursday, but with all the snow thought I would re post some pics from the 1st year I joined... late for the show Me on the Raider-10 Hated snow then & still do...

Glenn, the truck showed up about an hour later. by that time, he had gone to a neighbors house and plowed out their driveway. they were an elderly couple that had just moved here from Houston and only had a snow shovel, and about 75 ft of driveway. he's a good kid, he's always helping one of the neighbors with something

Just to add...... Even if you don't have a welder, can't weld etc it's worth the effort to seek out a pro to fix them properly, I think you would be happier in the end...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any one ever tried J.B. weld this stuff works good. I have used this many times for all kinds of applications. Just make sure every thing is clean around the hole.

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Had a great time at the show. Not much red in a sea of green. Hope to change that next year. Met Chris (clueless) from N Fl. Super nice guy. My friend Mike (jd110) my wife and I went friday morning. Too much to look at but did get some pics. Nothing spectacular, some nice and some hacked up. Chris did bring something red home but Ill let him spill the beans. I fell in love with that Holder

Tom...great action shots. Thanks Glenn

I don't think your 310 has dial-a-height (I could be wrong) so whether you use the silver solid link, or 3-4 links of chain instead you will still have to hold the lift lever to keep it off the driveway with all its weight. Mike........

I'm not a big race fan but ended up watching part of it. It was nice to see a Connecticut native won! Mike........

Bert...like was said...working with lead is really cool, and I love it, but I think if you really want to experiment with it...try it on something you can throw away. The neat thing about lead...with a regular propane torch, just get the lead shiny...then you can just wipe it with a good cloth and some styrene (wax) on it. It files easy, and you can still use bondo or spot putty to make things right. Like was said, if you use too much heat, your sheet metal will warp and you will play hell to get it back right.

After years of fighting tires I finally got tires of fighting them and bought one of those. There's another thread about them somewhere. Just about the best $35 I've spent.

Love it! Pierce Arrow Museum in Buffalo is planning something like that on a smaller scale. http://www.pierce-arrow.com/frank-lloyd-wright-filling-station http://www.pierce-arrow.com/

I agree!

Looks great every time I read one of your threads it makes me inspired to get my projects done you do great work

A piece of soft copper tubing...hammered flat will work for what they are saying above. That type of lead stick is probably not available anymore. But you can still find lead in plumbing soldier, I might try a package of lead fishing weights...should be able to find a close size for the hole you are trying to fill. Where is the hole at?? This could make a difference...if it is like where lights were mounted on a hood...I would try the lead. If it is on the surface of the hood...I would go with the bondo.

Please bring this to the Big Show, we all want to see it in person.

That's more like it. Now crank that puppy up to full throttle!

Don't have one, but wishing I did... A bunch of really nice looking machines you guys have there!

If you use the old gasket, torque to regular specs. Also, you can use a credit card and a shop vac to scrape off any carbon under the head. The 857 is a great tractor, as you find out. That picture of it in the snow like that is probably the last time...save that picture. The next time that horse sees snow...it will be plowing your drive way. I know...I have an 857.

I have # 48110 Ron Greco

Wowza...love those beefy ags.

Chains have been added!

Why, to scare the snow away?

Put the chains on NOW!!!

If the battery tests OK , measure the voltage drop from the positive battery lug to the power terminal of the starter.. Make the measurement while the starter is cranking. Good wiring will show very little voltage drop (less than 0.5 volts). Poor wiring will show several volts dropped and therefore slower cranking. You can perform the same measurement on the ground wire from the battery to the starter case. This process will allow you to tell if the poor connection is in the positive wiring or the negative ground wiring.

I'm not ready for it, but I'm prepared!

the massey should have a hh100 tecumpseh engine, i did this same swap to a1077 roller but with a NOS.hh120 tecumpseh the first thing you will need is the riser plate that the engine bolts on & bolts to the frame. let me go get some pictures. the next thing is a drive pullybetween 4&5 in.& modifing the belt guard, just 1 new hole & a spacer. my 1077 roller was repowered with a later kohler so the starter-generator wiring was modified & my engine is a rope start till i modifiy the sears,tecumpseh starter generator to fit the tractor. this tractor does very well the few times ive driven it. mainly because i've had to belt it to another tractor to get it started! the throtle & choke cables need to be repositioned & you might need to run a motercycle battery or relocate the battery due to starter interferance. hope this will help & some other members will chime in on the wiring. Jay

Ok it's official! I do not like this Rust-oleum Regal red paint!! I tried it out on two hitches and the color looks Great! but it runs very easy. And don't try and put a second cote on it 24 hours later! Lifted and looks very bad! I new all of this, but I have been so use to the valvspar paint that didn't do this. so I had all the hitches painted tonight and the two that I had put a second cote will now need to be put in a solvent tank to get all the wrinkled paint off. So I put a light second cote on the rest of the hitches while they were still tacky and they should be fine. I guess I just want to make more work for my self :banghead: