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Every once in a while... make 'em earn their keep, right?

I wasn't going to reply to this topic but after a couple of PM's asking my opinion I figured I'd chime in. First and most importantly a fundamental belief that I have. Forums are communities where information is shared. RedSquare is a community for Wheel Horse enthusiasts. We are not a business and aside from forum hats and supporter packages don't sell anything. Our philosophy is and always has been to support as broad a range of collector / owners as we can. We do this through the sharing of technical information, personal friendships and a sense of community for a shared interest. We have and continue to support other communities as well, and they have supported us when we needed it too. In the end all these communities have the same goals to provide information and friendship amongst the members and visitors, and most do it very well. It's been accepted practice here to allow the posting of other forums as well as the discussion of them as long as it doesn't turn into forum bashing. To me, nothing is worse than going onto a community / forum and seeing posts about "that other forum" and how they do this, do that, ban this, edit that.... and that will not be tolerated here of WheelHorseStable or any other forum. So my opinion. I personally like RedSquare, but I have also joined up on WheelHorseStables.com. It is somewhat out of curiosity but also in support of the effort. I am certain that many of you will enjoy both forums, and some will prefer WheelHorseStables and some RedSquare, and that's okay with me, I don't feel that there needs to be a competition. No one is going to get banned from RedSquare because they joined another forum and like it better, really it's okay, there's no such thing as one size fits all in this world. Now, that said, we will insure that proper respect is given to all other communities here on RedSquare, and that means that we can't be having talk of the "other" forum. It's fine to reference posts and information on WheelHorseStables via links where applicable, but please be sure to respect the intellectual property from WheelHorseStables.com as I am sure they will respect ours on RedSquare. So that's my opinion, I hope that you are able to enjoy both, of course RedSquare a little bit more

To put the trans back on to the frame it really helps to take a couple of 3/8 x 2" bolts...cut the heads off and the burrs from that...use those bolts, as studs, in opposite holes to line up the trans on the frame. It makes it so much easier to start and tighten the other 2 bolts...then remove the studs with a pair of pliers and place the last 2 bolts. This is the best tip there is.

Just thought I would post this picture.

I have my spare Onan running well and finally starting well on the loader tractor. I was changing rear tires around when I noticed some oil under the frame runners. I started stripping the tractor down more and found the lines to the hydro-lift were real loose and leaking! That's when I decided to start checking everything I could since it is out of commission and undergoing some needed work. Over half the the loader's contact points were loose. I dug into the fan gear on the steering and it was caked with crude. Cleaned and lubed up again! Changed a connector on the neutral safety switch. Cleaned terminals in the dash tower around the battery. Cleaned out the fins around the hydro pump. (Not bad but removed the grime on them). Cleaned the grass in the bottom of the tower and along the frame rails. Checked the frame/transmission attach point for cracks/loose bolts. Shot grease in all the zerks. I'll change the hydro oil next. This will sport some 26 x 12 x 12 rubber on the back soon. Modifying the fender tub and the foot boards this week to get them under it. Dual tires are nice but for one thing, I really don't want to snap and axle and two, in the snow, they stick out farther than the bucket and packing snow down that I'm trying to pick up! And if your trying to get along the side of your driveway, forget it! What a mess!

Karl. Very well stated. My hats off to you sir. Glenn

Luv my home made foot control on my 520H for snow blowing. It leaves the right hand available to steer and the left hand on the lift. The hand forward/reverse hand control is also still available for fine control when backing into a tight space.

I bought this ole girl knowing it sat for over a year, checked the oil, sanded the points, added some fuel, she cracked right off and purred like a kitten. Thought for sure the carb would have to come off, couldn't believe it, but he was a stickler for running his engines until the bowls are empty after shutting off the gas. Now I just need that new seat pan to get here so I can bolt it on and we're good to go, maybe look for a generator belt guard.

Thanks Karl for your post on this subject. I agree with Glenn, ( very well stated )

Here are a few examples....

Can I go to Geno's site and figure out how to get banned? Being a moderator for so long here on RS I would feel like a trader... lol. Good luck with the site Geno. Make sure you visit here too!

My Electro light switch has done its time so I have been on the look out for one. Sure enough one pops up on eBay NOS with correct part #. Before you know it this thing sells for $37.00 .I guess that guy really had to have it. Did a little research and found that it is a Cole Hersee. Sure enough its in their catalogue with all the specs, dimensions...etc. A little more searching and they pop up everywhere. Got two for a total of $14.00 and they even sent a free little led flash light. Bezel is a little undersized even though specs are the same as original, however the bezel is interchangeable with the new switches, it just clips on. New bezel does fit correctly and cover cutout if one wants to use it. So just do a little research. These things are out there.

I typically paint the rims with a brush using semi gloss rusto and it seems to give the look I want. I am not looking to make the rims too glossy but clean. I then use miller's tire paint and paint the tires. On the paint I have wet sanded and/or scotchbrite pads. I have used new motor oil, old motor oil, WD-40 and Marvil Mystery oil. I tend to like the mystery oil sprayed out of a bottle because I can get in into the areas I cannot reach with a rag. I can be dirty but I like the look.

3 hours sleep over the last two days... haven't been smiling too much lately.

Go it back together today...rear end actually ended up being pretty bad., one of the bushings was badly worn, which made the axle move up and down which just about destroyed the axle/gear as well as the other gear. Luckily I had a parts tractor I bought at the big show that had gears in it I used to fix this one. Also noticed it only drove from one wheel, it looks this one was messed up from the factory as they welded the plate on backwards that cause the pauls to engage, the hub is however in great shape on that side which is a plug, to get it driving again just ended up welding where the dimples were and now it guides the springs and the paul engages driving the wheel! Also cleaned up the spindles old dried up grease and got everything nice and smooth, also added a set of the pins that go in the tie bar which helped tighten it up some. Here's a few pictures of it in progress and back together, Gear case cover cleaned up... where the plate was installed wrong and welded hubs/pauls cleaned up and back side of the case and finally a shot before the cover was installed Back on all 4's

Add one more to the "very well stated Karl" pile. Very well written and thought out

The 2nd best tip is go out to a store and buy a pair of good grippy gloves for the wife/girlfriend. That way she won't drop the trans on you when she picks it up to install on the frame and you're lying underneath ready to start the bolts!

I know you don't want to hear this Steve but I had to drill mine out and with a Cobalt bit. A regular bit wouldn't touch mine.

Just in case you wondered, everyone in northern Wisconsin and the Upper penninsula of Michigan is laughing their asses off right now. A two foot drop of snow is not historic, does not shut down the city for three days, and does not require the National Guard. It is called Tuesday, and it happens all the time!

A little humor from Texas. Get most of these from out of state...hmmm.

So so you can keep up with the latest Traffic lights with countdown indicators . A pen that lets you scan and write in any color. Wall outlets with USB chargers. It should also come with a built-in night light . And the ultimate outlet would also have extension cords built into the wall . Small tiles you can attach to your keys, wallet, computer, or pretty much anything. If you lose anything, you can then look up their location on your Smartphone . Fresh pizza vending machines . Benches that you can turn to always have a dry seat . Power strips that you can expand and rotate . Mug that catches any drips . Parking garages with lights showing open spaces . Stairs with slides . Supermarkets with build your own 12-packs of soda . How to stop littering . Back pack with hood -- where was this when I was in school? Device that charges your phone from hot or cold drinks. Or this solar powered charger. Water fountains with built-in water bottle filling station. Subways where you can pay by recycling. Device to lift the Pringles up. A fun way to clean. A hair brush that is easy to clean . Ear buds that won’t tangle. USB rechargeable batteries. Packing tape that is easy to open. Bike racks that don’t take up sidewalk space. Caution signs that are funny. Movie theater screens in the bathroom so you don’t miss anything. Even better if the theater has bean bag seats. And a Red Garden Tractor that just goes on and on and does everything . . . Oh, we have that, a Wheel Horse. ct: RE: What's new in 2015

She looks like she can push some snow with that weight out back.

It is amazing how much a RJ can do... but it does have its limitations Great vid Craig!

Incredible. Thanks.

to I would keep checking ebay as have seen dozens over past two years from <$75 to $100. This link included tells how you cah use a 12hp crank and I believe a M-10 crank if I read correctly. I may have misinterpreted the K to M cross exchange of some internals. I got one a couple years back. If you want to complicate it a bit the site I'll add in here tells how to take a K-301 crank and use in a K-241: http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm. Look down near end at "GREEN" bordered modification. It says you use 10hp piston and block with 12hp rod and crank From link: K241/M10 (10hp) block. K241/M10 (10hp) piston/rings assembly. Stock K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) connecting rod, a K361 (18hp OHV) ALCOA rod, or a 5.7" billet rod with a 1.500" plain aluminum journal hole. K301/M12 (12hp), K321/M14 (14hp), K341/M16 (16hp) or a K361 (18hp OHV) engine crankshaft. This combination of parts will create a 27 cubic inch engine, a hybrid model K271, or a "stroker 10hp engine." With a STD size [10hp] piston, this engine will have a 3.250" bore and 3.250" stroke, resulting in a 26.96 cubic inch displacement engine. For strength and durability, especially if it's built to the max, it's best to use a model K241 (10hp) block with K301 embossed on the PTO end, like the one pictured above È. These particular blocks have an extra thick cylinder wall.

I'll bet it keeps the seat warm, Ed!

In an ideal world, some of those ideas might work, but only if the screw is loose enough to turn. But the reason it broke is because it is frozen by rust. And the area that Steve has to work with is this. The only solution in my opinion is to remove the transmission, then drill or whatever on the bench. The area is just too tight to get anything into.

Don't know what the clearance issues are around this model, but what has occasionally worked in the past for a broken off screw that is loose, is to get an undersized screw and put a drop of a high quality instant glue/super glue on the tip and insert it to make contact with the broken screw. Give it a chance to cure then try backing it out by hand. This actually worked for me twice on a transmission mount bolt in a Chevy pickup that kept breaking. Rick

Yeah why not, something with the Beverly Hillbillys type of melody

1/4-20 thread use a heli-coil to repair Brian

That's a great piece of information formariz. Not only for Electro owners but for everybody looking for a part for their rebuild. A little research can pay big dividends.

Matts pedals are great... unless you have short legs and a big belly, I blame mine on the insulated layers to keep me warm. If this is the case try and find a 8-3900 wheel horse foot control. Vertically challenged portly individuals fit well with those

No pictures but I actually have a little experience with a moldboard plow on the same tractor . I got a Brinly years back for it not that I intended to really use it but just to play around with . Tried it in the back of property and it worked pretty good. Outstanding issue is definitely weight in the front specially if your ground is tough. I can tell you that the 55lb weight is definitely not enough . As Racinbob said the front axle should not be a problem. However one place i would check is the plate connecting the frame to the transmission. It is prone to cracking. Mine gas developed such cracks over the years just from the heavy duty snow plowing and general use around property mowing and hauling stuff. She is retired now, just sits there parked next to Kenny (Electro 12) and when door opens probably wispers to herself " Good let the youngster do all the work, I did my share".

This one ?? She is up on the tractor shelf forever ....

Here's a better picture of the dogpoint set screw Check this post:

Remember that's not just a bolt. Whatever you run in there will need to be 'fitted'. Here's what they look like. Sorry for the crummy picture. The machined end on the right side in the pic seats into the donut welded on the the shifter. You can't just run a bolt in there.

I hear ya.I had -16 is AM.My 416H is in an unheated barn.I used the tractor yesterday and put it away last night.Today it looked like a block of snow and ice.Choke cable was frozen.Took the heat gun and thawed that so I could pull it out.Cranked on it for a while til the battery was too low.Luckily the Ford 3000 diesel started.I dragged the 416H out of the barn and pushed it into my shop and fired up the furnace.I'll probably have to leave the horse in there all day to thaw out.Like yours.....this Wheel Horse has ALWAYS started.I guess it doesn't like -16.Matter of fact,neither do I.

I've purchased several that needed nothing more than regular maintenance. They're are plenty of them out there. I had a 312-8 which I painted the tin and dressed it up a little. Nothing serious. A year later I heard a weird noise from trans, and that's no easy task given the noise of motor. Tore trans apart and found 2 bad needle bearings. Wasn't all that difficult but I had no intention of getting involved. My advice if you go though as much trouble as I did on this one don't ever sell it. Cause it'll probably last another 20-30 years!

hopefully the set screw hole(where the set screw screws in)isn't worn,i had one that I had to drill and tap a larger size,but that's a rare occurance

If your set screw is broken...it is hardened steel...hard to drill. It may turn out by hand if you can get a hold of it. You can buy them on line, but in lots of 25. If you need one send me a PM and I can mail you one.

You didn't do any harm. There's a long dogpoint setscrew that hopefully is still partially screwed into the front of the collar where the shifter goes. First, make sure the shifter forks are as shown. Move them with a screw driver if needed. Put the shifter into the tranny in the neutral position. There's a hole in the front of the ring that's welded to the shifter. The setscrew goes in there. Use a 1/8" allen wrench and run the screw into that hole until it seats. Make sure the jam nut is backed off far enough. It may take some fiddling to get it in the hole but you'll feel it when it goes. Back off just a fuzz until the shifter feels right. Then, holding the screw in place with the allen tighten the jam nut with a 7/16" wrench. Check it out again and fine tune as needed. Note that my picture doesn't show the jam nut.

Geno, thanks for posting in this thread finally. I do not think anyone wishes you "ill will" with what you are doing. Actually, I wish you luck in what you are trying to do. I just think you went about it wrong...as it was stated you were trying to run a business. Quite honestly, your attitude is going to keep me from being a part of your endeavor. Your post #40 is testament to what I am saying. I wish you no ill will and I hope it works for you...I hope you understand that I will not be a part of your ego. Fair winds and following seas Mate.

I signed up on Geno"s site yesterday. I still love Red Square and I am a lifetime supporter but it's all about tractors and a bunch of nice guys and gals talking tractors.That's what we all have in common. What could be more fun than that ?

I joined. It's like going over to your neighbor's for a beer. Red Square is my Home!

Gentlemen...I have to add this. If you are going to have a site to enhance your business (which makes perfect since), why would you want to have it closed to members only?? I would think that I would want to make it available to any Ja-moke that was interested in what Geno has for sale, prices for things, and a list of inventory. Just thinking.

Yup even upstate NY we were laughing over the reports. But them everyone laughs at Mass and CT when it comes to snow plowing roads

The Dunning–Kruger effect is a cognitive bias manifesting in unskilled individuals suffering from illusory superiority, mistakenly rating their ability much higher than is accurate. This bias is attributed to a metacognitive inability of the unskilled to recognize their ineptitude. Huh???

My 2007 Classic GT purchased in May 2008 #391 of 400!