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After looking for a larger used Cabinet Blaster for a few months I decided to build one. I did some research reading through several builds on the net, and looking at manufactured models. My cabinet work area is 48"w x32"H x 39"D and takes some design features from units manufactured by TP Tools. A lot of my designs start with available scrap and I had a lot of 3/4" scrap plywood, and a pile of scrap 18-20 gauge sheet metal to work with. Here my cabinet lined with sheet metal. I'm going with a front load design because loosing shop wall space for a side door opening was not a good option. Here the cabinet side view. I suspect I may add a side door for long items some day.I used contact cement to attach the sheet metal to the plywood. Used 2 coats on the wood and one coat on the metal which worked very well. I cut all the sheet metal with an abrasive blade in my table saw. The seams are sealed with silicone caulk. The cabinet hopper has a 1: steel pipe fitting in the bottom to attach the media siphon valve The Tacoma company sells an upgrade kit for Harbor Freight cabinets. I purchased it and it has a foot air valve, media siphon valve, air regulator and blast gun. Dave at Tacoma was really good to talk to and helped size the blast gun nozzle and orifice in the media valve to my compressor. I'm getting excited to try this out! The front load door is my last challenge,

HO slot cars! My 11 year old grandson came over last weekend so we got out my mega collection of slot cars and track! I have 4 tackle boxes full of slot cars and a few other original Thunder Jet slot car cases full of oldies! I have Thunder Jets, A/FX Magna Traction, Tyco Pro and 440X2 mostly. This is a fun hobby and my buddy and I have been doing it since we were about 13 years old so that is 40 years worth of collecting and racing these little buggers! Anybody else into this hobby? I think Lane Ralph is into it. I may have more slot cars than Wheel Horse tractors!

I moved this post here. Did not mean to hijack the thread it was in As many of you know I bring something special to the Big Show each year for the RedSquare members who post back to me. The first year it was Red Square coffee cups. Last year it was personalized RedSquare magnets. This year I am bringing RedSquare Wheel Horse Popcorn. I will have 12 ounce sample bags for all who are going to the show. We are a little less than 5 months so start replying so I can make a list of members. I Want to make sure I buy enough but dont want to buy more than I need. The bag in the following image is a 32 ounce. 12 ounces still makes a bunch of popcorn. RESERVE YOUR BAG NOW!!!!

I'm posting this in "Engines" since it is an Onan P-216G which is the source of my frustration. The first rule of Murphy's Law says: "If anything can go wrong, it will". There have been many variations to that law, one of which is "if you drop something, no matter it's shape, it will roll to the farthest corner of your work area". The distance it goes it directly proportional to the value or availability of a replacement. So my story goes like this. I am in the garage last night doing some more assembly work to the P-216G. All the covers are on and I am completing the repair and reinstallation of the wiring harness. Then I notice that I have failed to install the linkage that runs between the carburetor and the governor. Well that's simple enough. Remove the air cleaner housing, and install the darned thing. All goes well until I attempt to install this. Over the last few years, I have lost sensitivity in my finger tips, so holding on to small objects is a challenge. As I am inserting the rod into the clip, I drop the clip. I grab my LED flashlight and start looking down into the area of the engine where it logically could have gone, but I don't see it. So...off comes the front engine cover, ignition module, etc. Still no luck. Checked the floor, under the shelving, in my shoes, everywhere. So I go on to my local NAPA store this morning and buy a new one. Came home and decided to take one more look, and there it was, stuck between two of the magnets on the back side of the flywheel. So I am creating a new law called Maynard's Law. If you can't find something, just go buy a new one. The old one will show up immediately.

Where I used to work the boss always called them Jesus clips,Because when they flew away he'd say Jesus where did that thing go.I have used the term on many occasions my self.

We called them salamanders, and you are correct diesel or kereosene if not lit right they can realy through some fire.We had them years ago in the back of utility trucks when we road in the back with a tarp over the back. They make very good heat but probably not OSHA approved. Had them on many work sights for getting warm. Brings back lots of old memories.

Here she is again grazing in the Garden State. Just realized looking at Ken's photo that she still has the same battery five years later. Besides the obvious power and traction when plowing, the ease of the whole operation is probably my favorite. No reaching to lower or raise plow, no clumsy lenghty gear changes, instant foward and reverse, and it is FAST. Incredibly also she will run on one tank of gas for close to three hours on full throtle. Starts with the breakerless ignition is just a second, as soon as engine turns it fires. And to think that some people want to stop the Connecticut tractor swapping! Please lets not go silly here. There is one upthere now with a lot of bling bling that I want.

I dug up a pic of the Electro I traded to good buddy formariz, Overall the Electro was my favorite snow pusher I've ever had. I bought it from an old German guy who bought it new, he took good care of his stuff. I can remember him telling me, son this old girl will push a ton of snow. When I told him I was planning to make her beautiful again man was he happy. He was 100% right, she can push!. He was only selling it because his days were numbered. She is in good hands with Cas...

The 32 incher sounds like overkill for home use to me, course I don't know how much you have too clear.. Most times a blower like that isn't needed. At work I have the Ariens ST 10/28. Lots of sidewalk area to do here and there is always drifting, its a beast. I also use a smaller sno-thrower for the smaller stuff. This past fall I bought a new Ariens 7/22 Path Pro single stage job to replace the some what tired 9 yr old Ariens two stroke singe stage thrower. The new Path Pro is the bomb, with the 4 stroke engine it really digs in on the deeper heavier stuff. Squonk probably knows, with lots of walk way to clear ya gotta have options! Sometimes smaller is faster... My father in laws Simplicity is either an 11 or 12 hp Briggs. While a Tecumseh will get the job done it is so much easier on the ears listening to the purr of the Briggs... I don't have a headache when I'm done using it! I had a Snow Bird, it was an absolute tank and it would really throw some snow. No problem with traction on mine. I got rid of it, way too much of a work out to use. I was worn out after using it and I'm not really a little guy...

It is the largest longest thread I've seen on RedSquare.

Can't wait to see the progress! I like that model of tractor. Can't wait to see the progress! I like that model of tractor.

Mine is a 1972 Bronco 14 that I bought as new from a showroom floor in 1973. Next to the C-160, this is the best tractor Wheelhorse ever made....hands down IMHO. About 4 years ago, I had to replace the engine to trans drive belt...for the 1st time. In the course of doing that I also replaced the belt idler pulley and spring. I have never had an issue with the Sundstrand Auto trans (90-2046) and I use this tractor almost daily during the summer. It has full hydraulic lift and an electric clutch that I installed a few years ago. I also upgraded to the Tach-o-Matic system by installing a mule drive in front instead of on the right side. The engine oil gets changed twice ...spring and fall, and the filter on the Sundstrand in the spring. I change the ATF on 2 or 3-year cycles. These older machines have a lot of endurance and longevity. The key is periodic maintenance, cleaning (not car wash), and common-sense operation. I've never power-washed it...not even after rolling it over into a ditch. Suprisingly, after righting it, and a few minutes for the oil to settle, the engine started right up and I drove it away....to finish mowing the embankment at that ditch. I love everything about this Bronco 14, except the 43-year old paint which is now faded to almost brown. I have 50 or more obstacles in my yard to mow around and the auto trans makes it a snap to wiggle back and forth to get around them, and back again. So much easier than clutching from gear to gear...fwd to rev... every time a bush, tree, rock, flower, pliers, or whatever gets in the way. Over the years, I have rebuilt several of these Sundstrand power units and could probably service yours as well. My direct email is: daveoman@windstream.net and you can contact me there if you'd want to pursue restoration of that old Bronco 14 in the barn.

This thread is a riot...but so true. I always figure an extra hour for any job...just cause I know I will have to look for something. Two days ago, I was looking for my can of PVC cement. I was fixing my rotted out trap under my concrete deep-sink in the basement. I had already been to the Hardware store and thought I had bought all I needed (I knew I had a can of PVC). Has anyone ever been able to do only one trip to the Hardware store when doing plumbing? So, back I go, and I buy a small can of the glue. I finished the job and started to put everything away...then I put the little can of PVC cement right next to the can I already had. I must have looked right at it 25 times when I was searching for it. So, I did the job in only 2 trips to the Hardware store. That is a new record.

Try 7 feet in 3 days

If the battery cables are in decent shape, just slip a section of red heat shrink tubing over the battery terminals to provide a visual clue to which cable is positive and which is negative. A high ratio 3:1 or 4:1 shrink rate may be needed to slip the heatshrink over the terminals. If the cables will be replaced, by all means use the red = positive color code for the replacement cable.

Ok Gents, I'll be picking up a rough 520H this saturday; I was told it ran only a matter of months ago until it "lost spark". Being my first Onan, I'd like to know what you onan guys think I should look for! Possibly even a checklist to run through once its home. I'm looking for any and everything! I'll be checking the system overall but I'm hoping for a few Onan tips. Let the instructions and tips fly guys!

Dido to everyones comments. My 416h lift is very sluggish when cold. Key here is to let it warm up for about five minutes. Tractor will thank you in the long run!

I may be the last to know but this is the most unbelievable Wheel Horse you've ever seen!

Good sign, the fire company just left. They were here about an hour.

What in the world is that belt running??? A super charger? All ready converted to attach-o-matic I see. Now you peeked my interest. Also see a sub frame of sorts mounted up. Hard to tell from the picture.

I personally would not apply heat to a RJ hood... only as a last resort (tack welding or brazing). If you are not completely careful and pay very close attention to the heat, you will end up with nothing but a wavy mess... which in most cases cannot be corrected due to the thin guage steel that was used. There are plenty of destroyed hood pics if you google... and keep in mind these hoods are not GM quarter panel quality so all those handling therories can be just thrown out the window. What I have done in the past with a crack like yours is to epoxy a piece of 22 guage sheet steel in front of tank strap and one behind the front tank strap. 22 guage steel I find is the same thickness of the strap(s) so there will be no issue with the tank riding lower in the hood. I would go about an inch and a half wider than the cracks themselves (all the way around) with the patch steel and make an appropritate relief curve for the tank filler neck hole. I have done this a number of times and never have had an issue. One thing most people don't think about... Do not fill a RJ tank to the brim with gas... just fill the tank about a 1/4 of the way at any given time... and try not to travel (trailering) a RJ with gas in the tank... trust me, your hood and tank straps will thank you... I believe SteveBo learned the hard way about this therory one time. BTW: Thank you to all that have watched my vids... I very much appreciate your interest!

What amazing voices. It worked Jim!!

I wanted to either do what vin dose with epoxie or put a tack on it but the gas tank strap is in the way I just don't want to see it crack more

To quote something TT once posted "love looking down that long hood"

Nice setup, I love the cab.

Plus they are the feature tractor at the Wheel Horse Collectors Show in PA this year.

You have a nice large collection of race cars. Glad you and your grandson are enjoying the hobby together.

Hand built by our UK genius Ian (stigian) Each and every video made by Ian is a fun bit by bit construction of an amazing machine .

I concur. The Corvette Forum has an FAQ sticky that has all the technical posts. It's pretty awesome to have everything in one place

I am trying. Busy with work and not a lot of snow yet for eastern pa. Maybe we get another chance for snow Sunday. I have a pile of ideas for the cab, but just need to slowly keep working at it when I can. Thanks! Got my lights installed tonight. This should have been the first modification. WOW. These new lights make the old lights seem as though they are a parasitic drain on the battery. I may disconnect them to save on the battery and charging system. Still need to run my supports for the light bar but its on and fairly sturdy without them . I might just blow /at night time to annoy the neighbors... I mean... to get to try out my new lights. Since I dont have a cab control panel built up yet and didnt want to rig anything. I ended up tieing into the original light circuit of the tractor. I did not want to cut / drill or disturb anything orginal on the tractor. What I came up with was to make a pigtail / adapter section to add onto the wiring. Basically unplugged the + output going to the original lights off the switch and added my pigtail to plug back in the orginal and the new lights. Works like a charm and its already fused! Heres some pictures for ya.

Why is it that I cannot get an answer from site administration on this? Yes, no, not interested, not a good idea, you are crazy or what ever.

Bet you did not know this!!! If you were in the market for a watch in 1880, would you know where to get one? You would go to a store, right? Well, of course you could do that, but if you wanted one that was cheaper and a bit better than most of the store watches, you went to the train station! Sound a bit funny? Well, for about 500 towns across the northern United States, that's where the best watches were found. Why were the best watches found at the train station? The railroad company wasn't selling the watches, not at all. The telegraph operator was. Most of the time the telegraph operator was located in the railroad station because the telegraph lines followed the railroad tracks from town to town. It was usually the shortest distance and the right-of-ways had already been secured for the rail line. Most of the station agents were also skilled telegraph operators and that was the primary way that they communicated with the railroad. They would know when trains left the previous station and when they were due at their next station. And it was the telegraph operator who had the watches. As a matter of fact, they sold more of them than almost all the stores combined for a period of about 9 years. This was all arranged by "Richard", who was a telegraph operator himself. He was on duty in the North Redwood, Minnesota train station one day when a load of watches arrived from the East. It was a huge crate of pocket watches. No one ever came to claim them. So Richard sent a telegram to the manufacturer and asked them what they wanted to do with the watches. The manufacturer didn't want to pay the freight back, so they wired Richard to see if he could sell them. So Richard did. He sent a wire to every agent in the system asking them if they wanted a cheap, but good, pocket watch. He sold the entire case in less than two days and at a handsome profit. That started it all. He ordered more watches from the watch company and encouraged the telegraph operators to set up a display case in the station offering high quality watches for a cheap price to all the travelers. It worked! It didn't take long for the word to spread and, before long, people other than travelers came to the train station to buy watches. Richard became so busy that he had to hire a professional watch maker to help him with the orders. That was Alvah. And the rest is history as they say. The business took off and soon expanded to many other lines of dry goods. Richard and Alvah left the train station and moved their company to Chicago -- and it's still there. YES, IT'S A LITTLE KNOWN FACT that for a while in the 1880's, the biggest watch retailer in the country was at the train station. It all started with a telegraph operator: Richard Sears and his partner Alvah Roebuck! Bet You Didn't Know That!!! Now that's History!!!!! And now, you know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glen MmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

Last Saturday I took a carb apart to clean put all the parts in a plastic container and went for lunch when I went back to finish the nut that holds the bowl on isn't there. I looked all over for it and resorted to ordering a new one. How long do you think it will take to find the lost one once I have the new one in hand..

But Bob, at least you didn't lose anything down the Carb! I lost a Onan exhaust baffle/cover bolt down deep under the intake manifold and couldn't reach it with needle nose pliers and didn't have magnet to retrieve it. finally took the little Stinger wet/dry vac and sucked it out!

I have a story that beats all of these. It happened to a friend of mine. He has these high tech hearing aids and dropped one. Looks all over for it and cannot find it. He suspects that his dog may have swallowed it so he takes the dog to the vets. A few x-rays and a few hundred dollars later, there is no hearing aid showing up in the dog. So he goes back home and looks around some more. After two weeks and still no hearing aid, he goes out and buys a replacement at a cost of between $2500 and $3000. A week or so later, the new hearing aid arrives. A week after that, his wife is cleaning and moves a dresser. Yup, there is the missing hearing aid, it had rolled under the dresser. It must have been Maynard's Law or Zeeks Law at work! I hate it when that happens!

Both of my knees pop and click. Does that count? Nice regulator info.

That's what you would do if I were me .

The fun part has began! Got the hood and frame painted on sunday. Tonight I put the drive system and the steering together, it is as far as I can go for now, but was glad to start assembling it. Still have the get the wheels and speed selector arm done, but everything else is done. I am going to get some bolts plated, and then I can put it most of the rest of the way together. Anyways, heres a couple pictures, going together very easy so far, very happy with how its turning out. Thanks, Jake

Couple snaps of my drive and front yard. Nice and fluffy so it was easy to clear. Mike..........

Just a "bit of spare time"??? Nice work!

Looks good!

I'm 95% in, and you're right it gets smaller real quick. My wife felt sorry for me and said I can store my motors and horses in her side of the garage that way my small shop won't become a storage shed.

My 416-8 has an adjustable seat bolted directly to the seat pivot plate. On the bottom of the pivot plate are 2 coil springs with with built in bumper pads. With my 200 pounds in the seat the springs are completely bottomed out on the bumpers making the ride pretty darn rough and there are too many pins and screws in my back for any trace of comfort with this set up. I found a set of 520H flat springs, just like my C series have and went to work installing them. Original spring and bumper 520H springs The captive bolts that connect the seat adjuster to the pivot plate had to be cut down and the steel spacers removed in order to attach the flat springs, at the same time 2 new 1 1/2" bumpers were installed to support the pivot plate on the seat pan. This would have worked just fine as is except that the seat switch was depressed all the time. I put one of the original seat springs back to use by attaching it to the seat switch pin so it now holds the seat off the switch when unseated. Some skate board tape protects the seat pan from the spring. The difference in ride quality is like night and day!

I have been all day yesterday and today learning Corel X7 and trying to get this thing to suit me. You guys wouldn't believe how my head hurts. It's very close but not complete yet, there's still centering to do and I'm still playing with the B to L connection in Stable. We are also trying to do the phone # in a home made WH font to match the rest. These will be decals I put on things, ideas are appreciated.

I'll keep my day job. And I would suggest everyone else do the same. If your retired, I would suggest you get another job. You have way too much time on your hands!

I have contemplated having a meet an greet/trail ride this coming spring. My wife and I have 23 acres in south east Ohio near the Ohio river. There are a couple hills on the trail that might be a little much for a garden tractor though. Not sure if anyone would be interested or not. If so I may go ahead with it. Mark

I'd love to find one of those light-weight little loaders for doing mulch duty around the place. That is a nice find. You just don't see to many of the old Danco loaders. It does look similar to this WH400 loader. These are some Jacktown show pictures that I think Buzz posted several years ago.

She made it home. It needs work, but I have a round hood! I got the front wheels with it, but they need work to hold air.