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I had picked up my 520xi two years ago. One of the cosmetic problems were the side panel decals. They were worn and in poor shape. I didn't care for ragged panels so I decided that I would pull them off at the time and do something about it later. My thoughts were to put a black stripe similar to the 300/400/500 series and drop the Toro. Lo and behold just after Christmas, Terry at REDOYOUR HORSE.Com contacted me for some measurements. He had requests to create a replacement set for the 5xi. The originals were no longer available from Toro. Unfortunately I was on a trip to the old hometown for a wedding and couldn't help out. A week or so after I got back, I was on Terry's site - and there were the 5xi decals being offered! I sent an order in right away. Terry shipped them but for some reason they decided to spend a week in downtown Peoria. Finally they were delivered yesterday and applied today. It gave me a chance to also polish the tractor in mid-winter. After the photo shoot, I used it to plow today's snow. It also gave me a chance to try my UHMW plow edge. Last year I used a rubber edge and was pleased with that. But I sold it to another Red Square member when I got the red plow. Before you think my snowthrower and plow are a bit of overkill with the "whiskers," we have a side-load garage and this helps when pulling in or out to know the the location of the end of the attachment. Old look: New look:

I wonder why folks think it is a good thing to start a cold engine (when wear is at its maximum), take out a significant amount of energy from the battery, and only run the engine for a few minutes after starting (putting little charge back into the battery and leaving an overall deficit in the battery charge). I would think engine wear is maximized and battery maintenance is compromised by starting a cold engine unnecessarily.

I'm 95% in, and you're right it gets smaller real quick. My wife felt sorry for me and said I can store my motors and horses in her side of the garage that way my small shop won't become a storage shed.

Chuck is 100% correct. I would hope anyone that starts their tractor has at least switched over to 10W30 oil. Synthetics are best in cold temps.. At freezing temps even 10W30 Dino oil pours very slow. Forget about straight 30 in freezing temps, its like molasses. Imagine the slinger trying to throw that stuff around...

I know most of you hate the new style idiot proof gas containers with the lack of a good vent when pouring So here are some pictures of what I did to mine. Got the partial idea from someone off the forum. Works great! Drill a hole that matches a valve stem you want to put in. These are pressure fit, so it has to be exact - in my case 1/2 inch. Feed a wire through the hole and out the spout. Take the guts out of the valve stem, attach to the wire and pull up into the hole. Spray some silicone on and attach this to pull it up through, Leave the guts out, put the cap on and remove for pouring. Goes without saying . . .blow out any debris with air so it doesn't end up in you tank. Takes about five minutes

I'm trying too decide how I want this one to look. First pic is as I bought it, second is the idea stage.. Once I decide on what I really want to do with it I'll tear it all down and put a real nice paint job on it. I might go with the big tires in back with tri ribs on stock front rims painted white? (as the slots are off of my Suburban.) I might go with a different decal idea.,the 855 decals are kinda boring. Oh, and I hope to find something big too stuff under the hood. Maybe an Onan, Kohler twin or a Briggs Vanguard twin. I gotta have at least 18 hp on this one...

Brand spanking new Tecky showed up at the shop this morning. I think I'm going to have a little trouble getting it to work in a Horse though! No PTO pulley for starters and then I need 208 Volts!

Van's RV-7A that I built. Red

Unless you really really work it and get it hot (not just warm) you will be building up condensation/water in your oil. Think about it, the oil temp has to get up to 212 to get rid of the water. On a cold day unless you are really working her it won't get hot enough. Letting them sit doesn't hurt them. Put a tickle charger on it.

I also built this k181 out of extra parts over the last month

Just got the motor swap finished todaystill need to switch out the tins on the motor

add another 0 Ian why not use a chute like top fuel dragsters?

My driveway is mostly limestone "screenings". (< 3/8") I used a piece of 1/2" flat bar as a spacer and adjusted the skids until they touched solidly on the floor. It doesn't disturb the stones unless the ground isn't frozen, but it's still low enough to catch & launch frozen bulldog "waste" 30 feet or more across the yard.

Unless the cutting edge is is set to drag on the surface being cleared, they all tend to throw some snow backwards out of the center.

'61 to '64 "round hoods" for me. I'm quite fond of the pewter WorkHorse models too.

I agree I like them all!!!

I have my bags packed for the road trip!

I have a 418-A It has a Kohler I can tell you the engine number tomorrow if you where curious. As far as the differences,I am not the authority. But here are a few pictures if it helps. I went from a 312-8 last year to the 418-A this year. Now I just need some snow to see how good it is. I bought it for 500$ I saw it on Craigslist and scrambled to get a trailer at U-Haul to go get it. I got there 4 hours after the ad went up,and it is a good thing I moved quick, because he got 6 calls while I was driving the hour to go pick it up. I don't have a lawn,but I have a huge driveway, so I sold the deck for 250$ And then drove from Boston to Vermont for the Snowblower for 150$ The guy was nice enough to give me 2 OEM Snowblower bearings. Which I quickly realized was the reason it was so cheap. So I installed them,and then found some cast iron Wheelhorse wheel weights for 50$ So I am into it for 450$ Not bad. I have since put-on the flywheel screen,but these are the latest pictures I have.

the transmission date codes are subjective it does have a 58 style seat you need to look at the tractor as a hole because over fifty years parts can be changed it's definitely a RJ 1958/59 model Brian

AWESOME always good when its a simple fix and another example of NEW doesn't always mean "not the problem" lol

Here you go: Tractor music

Bashed my leg on the 418A and her snowblower today, she hasn't been used yet this year. The shop is crowded..may have to talk to the chief of staff about another addition to the shop. Got to thinking winter is almost half over and what have I gotten accomplished. The 418 was supposed to get a foot control..not yet. There is an 857 from a friend that I have gone over and is probably ready to go but it has been too cold and i would have to move a lot of stuff to get her out for a test run. The Case VAC did get a new clutch and ring gear. . Currently I am juggling multiple hobbies. There are my 3 tractors (Case DC3 VAC and Farmall M) a friends Farmall B I am converting to a wide front. My M37 and M274 have been joined by an M35A2 (a 2 1/2 ton truck) from another neighbor needing some work. The 418a and the Electro12 plow tractor (used only 2 times so far) and my faithful L-107. She starts and runs better and quicker than any Kohler in the cold. I will admit last week when it was really cold she stalled when I let the clutch out. She starts on the first pop and warm up is how long it takes for the garage door to open, then she hauls 750 lbs of coal and a hundred pounds of ash. I cannot bad mouth Tecumseh. Also there is a NP200 transfer case dissembled that i want to put together and then put on my M37. Spring may get here sooner than I am ready for.

Here is a new rj I picked up I put the date codes uo off the transmission and more people say it's a 59 than a 58. date code is either f2-9 or f7-9 tough to tell . how to screenshot on windows free upload photo uploading

My winter project so far has been to get my shop organized and ready for some actual work... Electrician finally finished the wiring for my plasma table and air compressor. Ignore the orange thing in the background. It was a gift from my wife's grandfather. Now it looks more like this on the front portion. After a few minor issues, the snow pushing machine has done great the rest of the winter...

He wants $300

Good tractor ... My Raider-10 is my main worker winter & summer for the last 5years

A standstill. To Da%& cold in the Garage. This was warmer times.

only the Tecky... make sure it runs because if the solid state ignition is bad it'll get pretty spendy to fix..

Hubs.....or hub caps????

I don't have grey hair for nothing. All 20 correct!

Thanks for posting John. I really like the look and now that I see them on your tractor I like them even more!!

John, wow wow wow. That about sums it up. No, let me throw a SWEET on that to. Good job Terry. Glenn

1100

I was thinking you could make one of you wheel centres and bolt weld?? to the centre of a disc like this ( if it was small enough to fit) just an idea of course, not really thought ot out properly, but who knows food for thought.

I have to keep checking I'm not on Brit chopper when I read your posts Stigian, this is the kind of bonkers I used to look forward to reading when I was into building choppers! I've never made my own discs, I always found stuff that could be made to fit, however I thought about it for at least a minute and then and idea sprung forth MAYBE, ok it's a big maybe, but a REAR motorcycle disc might work, they are much smaller in diameter, and some of the older types have a bit more centre to them, which could help for making new holes ? I'm not sure James but they may have to be a certain steel or treated for extreme heat? I could be wrong as well lol.

Evening all, a bit more progress today with one of the front wheels almost finished.. Two new wheel centers, can you spot which one is finished? It slots into the wheel like so from the inside. And looks like this from the outside.. A close up for you.. I couldn't be happier with the fit I need to grind a V shape into the two parts of the wheel to give me something to fill full of weld.. Once the weld is cleaned back you won't know it's not original.. Until you look at the inside of course The wheel is a nice tight fit on the wheel hub.. I have also been thinking about the front brakes.. There is just enough room to get a Kwakasaki Gpz 305 caliper and a small brake disc inside the wheel, though I have a feeling I might need to make my own brake discs!! Has anyone ever tried it and did they work?

Me too, got any pics of the belt arrangement?

I only start it for winter work or when I want to run it around, but I always run it for at least 30 minutes to be sure shes good and warm. And its stored in a garage that stays above freezing.

I forgot to mention, that if you push the golf tee in too tight, and leave the gas can in the sun, the expanding gases will cause the golf tee to launch when the internal pressure get too high. A screw on cap is a much better idea. I have four of the new "EPA" type cans. I just went to TSC and picked up a 4-pack of valve stems.

Don't be shy about pillaging and plundering Pa. There's too many Horses and attachments there to guard them all. After all, how many of you, from all parts of the country, have invaded the annual WHCC show to get a good deal? IMO, it's ALWAYS open season for Horses in Pa.!

I've heard the PA border patrol... usually takes vacation the third week of June. You can sneak a lot of stuff out then.

Just picked up a new horse hauler 2 weeks ago and have been playing with that for a while But last weekend I brought the 518 home and removed the loader and weight box to pull the magnum 18 for a valve job I took off the tins intake and muffler too pull the heads and valves. Pistons and bores look great! No redge and very little ware Time for a valve job Front exhoust valve was the issue, No clearance at all! intake was at .004 and the reat ex was at .011 and in at .005 I did the front cylinder tonight and got the ex at .016 and the in at .005. Spec for this ingine is ex .016/.019 and in at .003/.006

And they put a few 1290s on the 401s

I finally figured it out! After checking and rechecking everything on the horse, I finally took the rear off the brand new starter to look at brushes and noticed the ring terminals for the "ground" brushes were loose as heck. I tightened the rods towards the drive side to secure the terminals and reassembled the starter works like a dang new one should! Grrrrr Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Zeek - that is a great idea. I did a similar but simpler thing. I drilled a 1/4" hole in mine and stuck a golf tee in it.

Paul, these are my feelings on it too. I change the oil on my C-160 as soon as I get done cutting grass in the fall. Change the gear oil and then it sits in the back of the barn until spring. I have no interest in white oil and I know there's no way I would be able to get it hot enough to burn the condensation off. Spring comes I pull the battery tender off and it fires right up.

I'm with you on this, condensation rots out exhausts too, happened to a friend of mine on an old Lotus Esprit Turbo. He religiously started it every other week just ot make sure all the electrics and the like worked, but in the end all he did was crap up the oil and rot out the exhaust pipes. I'm new to the Horse right now so I'm not takin my own advise, I start mine up once a week just so I can hear her run.

Debris in the fuse block connections, or faulty wiring into the fuse block. I've had to replace two blocks on 520's for similar intermittent problems. No issues since going to sealed individual automotive fuse holders.

Sorting through the boxes today to see what all came with it, looks like a 5 gallon bucket of used parts for the rear end was also provided.

Coadster32. Not to step on the professors toes, but here is the answer to your question. The solenoid coil is an electro-magnet. The plunger attached to the disc, which goes into the hole in the middle of the coil is steel. When you apply 12 volts to the coil, the electro-magnet quickly pulls the plunger into the coil, thus making contact electrical contact with the studs, (and the clicking sound). When the 12 volts from the starter switch is released (after the engine starts), the spring pushes the disc and plunger back away from the coil and studs. Bob