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I know most of you hate the new style idiot proof gas containers with the lack of a good vent when pouring So here are some pictures of what I did to mine. Got the partial idea from someone off the forum. Works great! Drill a hole that matches a valve stem you want to put in. These are pressure fit, so it has to be exact - in my case 1/2 inch. Feed a wire through the hole and out the spout. Take the guts out of the valve stem, attach to the wire and pull up into the hole. Spray some silicone on and attach this to pull it up through, Leave the guts out, put the cap on and remove for pouring. Goes without saying . . .blow out any debris with air so it doesn't end up in you tank. Takes about five minutes

Hey everyone! I finally bought a Techy! Oh, and it came with a tractor! It is a 1969 Work Horse 700, in wonderful shape! I took a two state away trip, but the tractor came with wheel weights, chains, a snowy rear discharge mower deck, and a snowblower and it feels like is has very low hours, it drives super smooth and easy and is very clean for being a 46 year old tractor, the seat only has two little tears in it! The worst part is the rear seat pan is a bit rusty under the seat. Everything seems to work as it should, which is a plus! The motor on it is a "Hurricane" 6.5 hp Chinese Harbor Freight motor, which really runs smooth and quiet, and seems quite powerful. The previous owner said that the original motor ran fine, but was very VERY hard to start, (Which after doing research, seems about right ) so he swapped the motor. The tractor came with the original Tecumseh motor that was on it, the original gas tank, engine mount, air filter/cleaner assembly and ignition parts, and a full new gasket kit for the whole motor! It also came with original paperwork for the mower deck, snowblower and the headlight kit! I have the original headlight kit and plastic non headlight cover, but the muffler of the new engine points straight out of the front of the tractor, and the P/O melted a bit of the original headlight . He was quite upset that he did that, and I felt for him. He was a very nice and kind guy and said that he had a big snowblower on his backhoe and just did not need the tractor any more. I hope that I get to use the snowblower before the end of the season! C'mon Mr. Winter!

Took the 520 with blower out to the pond to get the heavy snow off then used the GT1848 with blade to get a nice surface.

I FINISHED THE 310-8 TODAY,I JUST NEED A NICER SEAT. REPAINTED THE WHEELS,FRONT AND REAR AXLE,FOOT RESTS AND HOOD GRILL BLACK. THE REST WAS SOAP WATER AND POLISHING. YOU GUYS LIKE PICTURES HERE THEY ARE. I THINK I WILL SELL MY 1982 SK486 THAT I BOUGHT NEW. IT IS UNRESTORED $1500

while trying to cobb together a dial indicater with a sparkplug bottom at work to time a h60 my buddy asked what i was building after telling him he said i got one u can have for $10 at home i got in a bunch of stuff from neighbor is that luck or what?????????

Well I got two of the five grandkids out.(14/12),the ice could of been better. The temp got to 35 today and put a just enough slush down to make it not as slippery as nice frozen ice surface. But had some fun then went into warm shop to listen to the games. Sorry to see the Pack lose but what a game the Seahawks had. Here's a couple pics of the grand kids.

I do the same. Sometimes I just fire one up and run it through the field next door. Or if it snows through my yard and over my sandmound a few times. The neighbors probably think I'm nuts driving a deckless tractor all over the yard They then confirm that when I go flying down the road on this

Its a good idea to run them all for about 15 or 20 minutes every week. But of course I'm the worlds worst at taking my own advice regarding this...............................

In my experience, I would have to say that quite the opposite is true. The K-Series is one of the toughest engine out there. The rod is not a weak point if the engine is maintained properly. Old oil, lack of oil, and general misuse will cause any engine to have problems. Sometimes, when someone rebuilds an engine, they will install the connecting rod backwards with the oil hole in the cap pointing away from the camshaft, or they will not torques the bolts tight enough. Other times, in the process of disassembling or reassembling, they will damage the dipper, causing it to break off under load. I currently have 6 Wheel Horses with K-Series engines, and none have thrown a rod in all the hours they have been in service.

What else does a retired guy hafta do with his time but make movies! We Got slammed w 18" last night Chucked this morn and probably will later this Eve. Nothing like more seat time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQKNiU3fOD4&list=UU7wuEBq4kYyHz0ytg3WDv2g

This particular tractor was purchased "just to get me through winter plowing" while I located a new engine for my 520H. I don't know who had it before WHfan74 but Scott cut me a deal and Tom hauled it my way on one of his trips through Indiana. It ran so nice and I found it a very capable machine the more I worked it. Most of you are collectors and I've had my fair share of them over the years but this one really surprised me. I put a 48" deck under it and it cut my lawn with 1/2 the fuel my 520H. Even if the lawn got away from me in the spring it still did a decent job in tall grass situations. I have bad shoulders so I converted the front end to the forward swept axle and gear reduction steering. I put the 8.5" 520H rear rims on it to match. Being a huge fan of the hydro I didn't like the ground speed so after some reading I purchased a 5.5" hydro engine pulley from Kelly. 2nd gear hi and 80% throttle works perfect and I saved additional fuel and got the job done 15 minutes sooner. My ***ONLY*** dislike it reverse is to fast and you really have to watch it. I just plowed some with it today and took a few pictures of it. The charging system works perfectly. This is now my favorite Wheelhorse I've owned since I've started.

I would be good if you could post some pics of both. Based on your information I recommend you purchase the 308 because it runs. As BooVuc said, you can always drop in a 12hp engine if you need more power. I have swapped a 12hp Kohler into a 310-8. If possible, try to make a package deal including the C125. If its in decent shape, try to get it running or you can upgrade the wheels and tires from the C125 to the 308. If the seat on the C is good and the seat on the 308 is bad, you can swap that too.

SAVE YOUR WHEEL HORSE FENDERS FROM SCRATCHES OR DENTS The best way to keep your Wheel Horse fenders from experiencing scratches or dents from the metal seat hitting the fenders from a weak spring or heavy load is to raise the seat. Here is what you can do to lift the seat off the fenders and give yourself a little more leg room and peace of mind! You need the pipe spacers in the center of the rectangular steel pipe to hold everything in place. Neat trick you buy a 2 1/2 by one inch metal tube (rectangular). Cut about 4 1/2 long. drill two 5/16 holes to match metal seat holes (carriage bolts) and put pipe spacers cut to go in rect. tube between carriage bolts and you are lifted off the fenders. Place this on top of the spring. Kind of hard to tell in my photos but I placed a foam block on end with a reflector too

c125

I was in a bar last night for awhile and it wasn't empty or wide. (Some of the patrons were pretty wide though). I use Chrome and Internet Explorer 11 and see no corruption of the homepage screen. If your using a Windows PC and your using Explorer, go to the little "Gear" icon or if your using a real old version, click whatever gets you to the link "About Internet Explorer" and tell us the Version Number you have. Under help, you should be able to see a link that says "update Internet Explorer". Can't help you on an Apple or an Andriod tablet.

Williams Grove Speedway (Dillsburg, PA...45 minutes up RT 15 from G-burg).....Super Sprints Friday night......Sportsman, Late Model, and a special Midget Class Race on Saturday..... Sprints turn the 1/2 mile track in less than 20 seconds.....midgets like 2 seconds slower.....but they are fast and wingless..... http://www.williamsgrove.com/divisions.htm http://www.williamsgrove.com/schedule.htm If you have an interest in racing and never attended a Sprint/Dirt Track circuit race.....the sound, smell and feel is pretty intense..... Midget Specs.....,1075 lbs W/ driver....400 HP....bout the weight of a decked out C-160 with wheel weights.... ARDC Engine size: 4cylinder Fuel System: fuel injection Horsepower: 350-400 Speed: 100-120mph Power Train: Quick change rear Weight: 1075 with driver Steering System: power Cost $ 20,000.00

Thanks James.. Yep the extra width will help with stability which can only be a good thing Thank you Sir Thanks Jerry, here's the next update to keep you going... I hope to have enough video footage tomorrow to string another video together, so keep ya eyes peeled for the next vid maybe Wednesday.. Not much to report, I have made a rather big washer.. Which will become the new center for this wheel.. Which with some holes drilled will be able to bolt on the new front wheel hubs.. Here's one of them in it's "before being cut up" state.. This wheel won't be fitted, but while I had it to hand I thought it would be too good a photo opportunity to miss It's not a JD wheel, it was just painted the wrong colour at the factory The time had come to cut one of the centers out... The wheel is slightly too large to fit on my lathe, but it will fit on Nigel's lathe with a few tweaks.. A bit of chain drilling and chisel work later.. The inside of the wheel had some extra cutting to make the hole a little larger.. And on the lathe the wheel went. The inside taking shape. A few hours later... And to finish up this small update, a groove being cut in one of the new centers. This will center the new center in the rim

YOU COULD ALSO DO WHAT I DID.... MY VERYFIRST WHEEL HORSE.. SAT APART 5 YEARS WHEN I PUT IT BACK TOGETHER,,,I DIDNT REALIZE I PUT THE SEAT SPRING AND TOOL BOX ON BACKWARDS... EVERYTHING FIT... I DIDNT HAVE A LIFT CABLE AT THE TIME,,THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN MY CLUE.. IT TOOK SOME ONE ELSE TELLING ME... KINNA LIKE WHEN YOU ZIPPER IS DOWN,,,ONLY KINNA ..... WORSE.. LOLOLOLO AND THE SPRING ON BACKWARDS..... THE SEAT NEVER TOUCHES THE FENDERS.......EVER

Well I had some nice weather today so I cleaned up the electro 12 took the rear fender and tool box off to give the hydro trans a good cleaning and engine shrouds this thing was probably the dirtiest one I've had yet but everything seems to work good hydraulic lift is nice also changed out the hood the one that came on it had been ran into something pretty hard here are a few pics didn't have time to put the seat back on

i guess i'm odd man out, i've never figured it was that hard to get the pin in and out of the flag i think i use a pair of needle nose pliers but never thought of it being that hard to do. i thought it harder to hit the hole in the lift tube with the flag mounted, but like i said i guess i'm odd man out on this eric j

Thought it would be fun to make a topic on loader tractors and see how many or what everyone has found over time. There has been a lot of loader talk lately and I really get excited about that topic. I will share mine too. I have an 550 Ark that I have had on a C160auto first and now on a 90' 520-8 with gear reduction steering, which handles the loader better. Actually found my loader behind a garage of a friends uncle. His dad had bought it new on a D series. Even came with the original owners manual. The 520 was on craigslist. I had looked for a 520 for a long time. Finally found a 90' 520H first and the next week the 8 speed showed up on craigslist too. When it rains it pours as they say. Just couldn't pass it up. Sry I wish I had a better pic of it on the 520. So show em' if you've got em'.

Congrats!!! What a great find.

those are wheel horse weights

Nice find, looks real sweet. Best of luck. Glenn

You're right Tom... that is a very clean for its age.

Lol Ed I wasn't talking about that good lookin plow, that stays like it is but the other two need something to help them.

I always take care of my 416 with a fresh coat of wax every year but when I bought it it came with a small rust spot on the hood and most people would not care but that started to bother me and was wondering what the best possible way to fix it is Thanks

I never have but when I was growing up the neighbor always used his WH to clear the snow on the pond. My brothers and I use to wear old boots and hang on the back of the tractor while the neighbor drove around in circles. Great fun.

OK, now I have somethng else to add to my "Bucket List". In 24 years of owning and driving Wheel Horses, I have never once given thought to driving one on a frozen body of water like a pond, lake or river!!! Threads like this are another terrific reason for being a membr of Red Square! Thank you kiotikin for starting this thread and posting some great pics!

Good lookin tractor Wheels.

Tuna.....checked yesterday, sat idle for 3-4 days, 12.2 volts. All is good!

I have both and the only difference I've found is the decals are different other than that I think they are the same

I havnet got a clue that's a good question their 857 horse

Here is my 414. Since this pic was taken I have changed the seat.

Then and Now is a great company to deal with.

If you want a rebuild kit for your fuel pump, this guy makes them and there really good. http://then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ Or like Gary L says get an electric .

Yes, I did. I lucked into a guy with a 4x4 tow truck with a snow plow. He had to plow a path on a ridge at the rear of our property. Only able to get about 100' from the pond he had to winch it out. The tractor kept catching on the ice and he actually overheated the winch but he finally got it. He towed it off the ridge to the road south of us then back to the house. A total of about a mile. I took the seat inside and removed the cover. Once the tractor thawed I changed all the fluids and took all the precautions I could think of. I expected the worst because the motor was still running when it went in. Danged if that Briggs didn't start right up and ran fine. The only damage was the clutch rod that got all bent up. I got lucky. Even luckier was the fact that the tow truck driver who spent 3 hours there on a Super Bowl Sunday only charged me $40. He said that will cover his costs and the entertainment value that day was priceless.

For those interested it takes a 84" belt with a 5 1/2" hydro engine pulley on a 414-8 to re-gear it.

Neat idea! very nice write-up! This is some thing I will add to the rebuild that I am now doing. But I may need to go with 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 square tube for that little extra , extra i havent test drove my 604 under power yet to see just how the seat spring would hold up. come to tell the truth i havent even sat on it yet when the tires were not flat, some used car buyer i am. buying a tractor with 2 flat tires that would not start. i just know that i liked the looks and style, hopefully i will enjoy the ride!

Nice job! Looks like lots of seat time too.

That is an really good idea! Thank you for the tip

If the battery tests OK , measure the voltage drop from the positive battery lug to the power terminal of the starter.. Make the measurement while the starter is cranking. Good wiring will show very little voltage drop (less than 0.5 volts). Poor wiring will show several volts dropped and therefore slower cranking. You can perform the same measurement on the ground wire from the battery to the starter case. This process will allow you to tell if the poor connection is in the positive wiring or the negative ground wiring.

Before you run the above tests, I would advise measuring the battery voltage AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS while cranking the engine. Battery voltage dropping under 10 volts while the engine is cranking is a sure sign of a compromised battery.

Correct. SG or stator, it is charging the same style lead acid battery requiring the same charge voltage.

Sent you a message.

I took this little guy to a news years day show and it received lots of attention

Ok but you will need to select an appropriate fuse from the list below

Looking good!

If I remember correctly SOI says that if your battery is at 12 volts, its lost part of its charge already. Its should be closer to 13 when its not running. Garry is right about the 14.4 volts DC or so to charge. You may have a bad voltage regulator or the stator ring is bad on the engine. If you have 14.4 VDC when the tractor is running at 2/3 throttle then your charging circuit is ok and that would point me towards the battery. If you don't, then check your input wires to the voltage regulator with your meter. You should have about 28 VAC at full throttle there in the stator is ok. Any less than that you have to replace the ring. If you do have the 28 VAC then you need a new regulator

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