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Well another one heading to a new home, I gave this to my son and wife for a wedding present, I gave them a deck, plow weights and chains and a larger set of turf tires for summer, it runs like a top, only has 2 rust spots, no hour meter but I think it is very low hours, carb even has almost no wear on it, I've had it for a few years needing TLC but no one would give me $300 for the tractor, and I could see it was to nice to part out, well now it has a good home, I put the TLC into it, that it needed, and like I said runs like a top now, plowed with it for 20 min. before loading it to head to it's new house. gotta love a nice 312 8 speed

I purchased this from our very own Scotty, right on RS. his grandfather delivered it today. super clean and tight. very happy. I have been unable to find a running round hood local so this is awesome, starts drives, even the parking brake works.

Well,went to look at / buy another 312-8.The owner also had a Case 446.Being a good salesman,he convinced me that I also needed the case.Two 40 minute trips later,I have them both home.The Case has a 48 inch left discharge mower and a 16 horse Onan.I know.Some folks here hate Onans.It runs great.I'd like to find a snowblower or snow plow for it.That Case is a beast of a tractor.It's in my shop now next to a WH 520H.The 520 looks pretty small next to it.What's on the hood of the 312,I don't know if it was the previous owners nick name or the name of the horse.Enjoy the pics.

Everyone loved the idea, better than handing them a few hundred $$ to spend, he takes care of it, it can serve him for years, and I know a guy that has lots of parts to keep it going.

Note to Kelly... I'm currently up for adoption.

What else does a retired guy hafta do with his time but make movies! We Got slammed w 18" last night Chucked this morn and probably will later this Eve. Nothing like more seat time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQKNiU3fOD4&list=UU7wuEBq4kYyHz0ytg3WDv2g

Morning all, more progress has been made but once again things are happening much slower than I'd like.. But such is life eh.. Both rear wheels have now been converted to the 4 bolt Reliant pattern which is a big step forward.. With both rear wheel bolted on I could finally get an idea on wide Why Not's rear end is.. Best have a look at the front end now.. as I plan to fit disc brakes to the front I need a pair of wheel hubs and wheels that will fit.... So out came the grinder to cut the centers out of a pair of wheels that Doug kindly sent me.. The wheel centers came with a handy strengthener plate welded inside.. A very handy strengthener plate as it turned out as it's the perfect fit inside the front wheel.. But it was only when I put the wheel center in the lathe that I noticed quite how much the manufacturing process had warped the wheel around the center and bolt holes.. No matter how much I tried it would just not sit right/central in the lathe! Time for plan B.... Make my own wheel centers.. Here we go again, more time at the lathe... It's a good job I find it relaxing

Here are a few more pics

Hello everyone! Very excited to be joining this community! ive spent some time reading on here and trying to learn about my newly acquired 211-5SB wheel horse lawn tractor. My wife and i just bought our first house last july from the nicest old couple who we still stay in contact with. the property is just under a half acre at .42 acres. small house 1000 sq ft and an over sized detached 2 car garage, the couple liked us so much they decided to sell us pretty much the entire contents of the garage and two garden sheds for $200. Best deal of my life id have to say. just to name the bigger items that came with this purchase, the wheel horse tractor of course! a craftsman roto tiller, pressure washer, self propelled push mower, two chain saws, an old roll around craftsman tool box, and tons of tools and odds and ends, iv already put to use lots of the left over wood, built a dog house and other things with it. And im still finding treasures every time i clean out another corner. anyways that being said i am a gardener, but i only had one garden bed before. barley enough for a decent tomato crop. i always ended up overcrowding my plants. but now i have all this land and this great tractor. the old man took good care of it. regular oil changes and left me a spare belt somewhere according to him as well as the manual. I have yet to find them. The thing runs like a champ and carries my 260 lb self like nothing. I want to learn as much as i can about this thing and keep it in good working condition as i would love to be able to use it in my effort to build my dream garden and feed my family. i plan on having way more than i need so i can sell some at the local farmers market and donate the rest to charity. I'm hoping i can sell enough to sustain the garden and keep a decent donation while still feeding at least my wife and I. This may take some years to get right but its kind of a dream/goal of mine to accomplish and hope this tractor will help me get the job done! well thats my wheel horse story, so far. if anyone can point me in the right direction about my 211-5SB and what i can learn. I really don't know much about it but i know i can handle taking good care of it. just need an education on the damn thing! I am an apprentice mechanic by trade so im pretty handy. as far as maintenance i dont know what to put in the thing or how often to change it or common things to look for. I'm also super interested in implements for gardening that might help with my project. sorry for the long post just so excited for this to get going. I cant wait for the spring time!

Out of my garage and into a work space where I don't park cars. It's got heat and air plus lots of light and lots of electrical outlets. Still needs paint, landscaping, entrance ramp and a whole lot inside.Here's a few photos.

Here's a new twist in loading ramps , They convert from a tongue mounted carrier to a set of loading ramps . Wish I would have thought of this . For $200.00 they're about the same price as a good set of aluminum ramps ( with added benefits ) When mine finally wear out , you can bet I'll be calling these guys . They look a lot more secure too . Mods can move this if they want as I could not find a specific category for these .

Holy crap ! You wanna be MY dad ?

Kelly, very nice, thoughtfull and more important, usefull. Great idea. Glenn

Got my needle and thread out right now fixing sum tears in the seat I will post pics soon

Haha, wouldnt that have been nice! no that was mine. My dad got that for me for my first car. Im going to be trying to get it back on the road once it warms up.

They going to paint it all at once? Will there be unpainted surfaces mated to other unpainted surfaces? I see the beginning of rust at those areas..

Yes this is a RJ35 but, the steering set up is exactly the same as your RJ58...

The blade I have has the teeth to break up the hard pack and a rack area to weigh it down with cinder blocks. A WH cultivator is light and will just bounce on the ground

On my C-175, way back in the mid 90's I was STUPID enough to spray silicone on the throttle lever. S T U P I D ! I had to hold the lever up with a bungee cord for years until I used a needle nose vice grip to squeeze the rivets but it still loses some RPM to this day. It was just a little tight way back then.

Thanks to all you experts for the input. Hopefully I can work out a fair deal with the guy. Beside my little Lawn Ranger L-157, the only round hood I have is the 603 I picked up last summer so I have zero experience with any of the round hoods. I haven't done a thing to the 603 other than power wash it. Haven't even tried to start it yet. That will change today as I'm finally caught up with all my home and barn projects and can get back to playing, I mean working on the horses [emoji4] Sent from my tractor seat.

To follow up my plough conversion, here's the lift assembly needed. Firstly the beefy bar to run from the deck lift arm. Then two bushes for the rocker shaft Then a piece of 18mm bar for the shaft with the ends threaded to retain it. It all fits nicely with the fuel tank in place. And the view from above with the link bar in place. And with the plough fitted.

I saw this and watched the video several months ago. I did not buy one but for $299.00 and made in USA (Pennsylvania) the All Terrain Rake (ATR) looks pretty good. I think this is a pretty good buy for a product designed to do some of the things you are asking about. Looks like it would be an easy attachemetn to your Wheel Horse too! http://www.ratchetrake.com/

If all those lights and gadgets weren't on there you would have ripped that baby right out of the ground!

Sent from my tractor seat.

Revenge of the Onan Refurbisher Alliance.

Next, I'm going to upgrade that to "expert status!" :-P

FINALLY!! After three years, I've picked up a second horse for my small stable ... I've been lurking for the last few months searching for one of the larger units. I really wanted to find a 520 with the big 60" Deck but just ... the price...That much be GOLD under that red paint!! Ended up settling for a 418-A. I think I'll feel better sticking with a Kohler. I'm working on uploading the auction pic(s) now .. There is a missing Decal I'll have to get, and the light buckets are Spray bombed white ... it needs a seat, and I'm sure a very thorough tune up! Any Tips/Tricks/Need to know info?? Pictures! Enjoy!

With all the cold up here in the Northeast what else is there to think about but "Summer Fun". Here's some pics from previous years on the water.

We do not have the original operator manual but this 1990 210-5 manual should be very close to what you need Engine manual Lubrication manual Garry

I call it UHMW and it avalible at grainger, McMaster carr, and other industry supply stores

A little warmer today and cleanded out the valley of oil and its looking like the leak is from the HPOP. Most likely from the pumps mounting gasket. Thinking of doing a complete O ring repacment on all the hoses and fittings, also installing the nonserviable plug kit. I also notied the exhaust servo in the turbo stand is wet. Turbo has a lot of lag and may need attention. So I plan on rebuilding the turbo stand exhaust brake servo and the turbo while i'm in there. Diesel O rings has it all I need for around $300. Only got 12 MPG on the last tank of diesel, but it had about 2 hours of warm ups in the morning as its been in the single digits the last few days. But I expected that in the winter. I do use the Extreme Deisel with the heat aditive and cetain boost. I have to say its a blast to drive and with a little TLC it should last for many more years to come. The power is nice to have with that big truck!

More is always better.

TNT maybe... at least its Red -Nate

Congratulations! Knew you could do it!

Not to highjack this thread but can we check the Site suggestions forum and try to get something acomplished here?

My 416's fuse block looked like a remnant from someone's burn barrel. It also decided to rewire itself to the point that it didn't require both relays anymore though both were wired up! I wired it with individual fuse holders connecting the bridge between them as they would be in the factory fuse holder. I also found where a past PM re-wired a broken 9 pin connection wrong. It took care of the issues including the no start feature on 1 out of 5 tries. All Toro needed to do was mount the fuse block horizontally and it would have saved a lot of grief to thousands. Just keeping the minuscule grass dust and small clippings out of the bottom of the fuse block would have kept a majority of the electrical issues from ever happening on the 400 and 500 series tractors. Amazing what aging a tractor in working conditions can do to expose engineering and parts design flaws. Maybe they didn't expect anyone keeping them for 25+ years. Trouble is some of the early C-series tractors were already aged to that point when they created the 300, 400 & 500 series. I wonder if the Chinese made lawn & garden tractors/parts have any thought in them to last this long? Short answer..................I'll take Toro's little goofs any day compared to a Murry/MTD/Craftsman/Storebrand/Newer Cub/Newer JD/newer Husqvarna/newer etc./etc) Just follow the schematic for the year/model machine you have and wire the block as it is laid out and you'll be good to go and have the biggest issue electrically with your tractor a distant memory!

Good fix. I've had that happen a few times. It's great when the fix is the simple things.

Thank you everyone for all of the birthday wishes! Had a great day yesterday with my family and a amazing dinner prepared by my wife! Glad to know I have so many friends all around the world!

I got it started today it was the first time I got to hear it run and I was very happy and someone has gotten rid of the points though which is fine I suppose the transmission work good I'm not real familiar with these sunstrands transmissions I have a few but they are on non running parts tractors so I guess it will be a learning experience and the hydraulic deck lift seems to work good so I am a happy guy only problem I had is a fuel leak at the pump

Go here and download the "IPL #A7136" file which shows all the parts. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/download/1880-tractor-1958-1959-rj-58-rj-59-da-om-iplpdf/ It will also show you the correct place for each part. looks like you have the tie rod #12) and the steering block (#67) on upside down. The steering link (#78) is hitting the frame Did you ever straighten the tie rod (#12) if it's bent, that will cause the alignment issue. I can't believe you posted a pic of muddy tires

Let's see..... Brutally cold garage and tractor covered with snow? Check! Snowblower and cab attached so you can only get the hood half open? Check and Check! Intermittent electrical problem that makes you want to stab your own eyes with a multi-meter lead? CHECK! I feel your pain. As much as I love these tractors, there are some major design flaws. The electrical system in general, and the fuse block in particular come to mind. I still think you have a short in or around the fuse block, and I wouldn't spend a bunch of time searching for other issues until I ripped the %*&%#$#!!ing thing out.

C'mon now... it ain't that cold out.

Polaroids: What Eskimo's get from sitting on ice blocks too long!

Now Steve, Don't you remember that I unloaded it from the back of the truck. It was made to fit in a 6' pickup Box. Well last night I intentually left the block heater unpluged to see how the glow plugs were, well it started right up with no problems! It was around 0 deg with a wind chill around -20, Too cold for a week glowplug system for sure. Oil leak has me consurned a little as it's also too cold to clean off the engine and find it. I have put on 200 miles on it the last 3 days and its a pleasure to drive something with all that power when its needed! I'm iterested in the fuel milage, but in winter its not so great with wanting to warm up that jello in the crank case before driving it

The nut on the bottom of the bowl is what holds the glass bowl snug against the rubber gasket to make a seal. it is tightened against the metal straps that hook to the metal body of the unit. On my sediment bowl I adjust the nut tight enough to form a seal and leave it at that. Try not to over tighten, it can damage the gasket or the bowl. Hope this helps

Way to go Chas Ideas in action !

ftlboy717, timely post. I was going to ask the group how a gas powered compressor worked. Electrics, just shut down the compressor motor and I'm guessing the gas powered ones use some type of unloader valve ? I imagine a compressor head could be powered off an electric PTO from the wheelhorse. The PTO clutch could be wired into the pressure switch on the electric compressor based controls. A second option would be the gas powered compressor and keep the PTO engaged all the time. Interesting stuff. Keep us updated on your research.

Outstanding Paul, but keep going, you are on a roll. There is something to see under the electrical tape. Any guesses ?

The sending unit is just an on / off thermal switch - when it senses an overtemp condition, a lite on the dash gets it ground connection from the temp switch closing and the hydro temp light turns on - real simple. Take a look at the temp switch - sometimes they have an activation temperature stamped on them - you could place them in a pan of water with a thermometer and pull the sender out of the water at 50 degrees before the trip temp and ohm it out with a continuity meter. should be an open circuit - heat it back up to within 20 degrees of trip temp - measure it again - and so on until the sensor trips. compare the water temp to the published trip temperature and make an informed decision if the temp sensor is actually bad. I'm thinking the odds are the sensor will be the culprit and not the wiring or indicator lamp circuit.

We are going to need a little more info - as Paul asked - do you have any tools to troubleshoot electrical issues , meters, test lights, etc. The talent here varies greatly and we don't want to overrun a "non-mechanic" with too much info, but we do need to know what you tasks your comfortable with. Sometimes the best ( least expensive ) advice you can give someone is "take it to the shop" Let us know what your level of expertise is. An now for my motivational poster of the week .....