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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/05/2015 in all areas
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15 pointsI don't need to tell you folks about the quality of Terry's decals. I've had my eye on this set for a long time and I finally pulled the trigger. It didn't take long this morning to put them on. I also picked up some wheel weight decals for a set that I'll be putting on this tractor shortly. Thanks for the outstanding decals Terry!
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8 pointsSo I picked this up Thursday and was going to post it earlier for your viewing pleasure but Christmas parties and such got in the way a bit. So here it is my new Charger 10 Auto.
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7 pointsHad the family upstate for the weekend. 6" of ice and snow was already on the ground. Pretty solid 2' high plow banks around the house. It was an unwelcoming winter wonderland. When I bought the blower the PO told me it would throw 4" rocks. Well that's not to far off.... I broke up several plow banks with the loader and followed with the blower. It sounded like a refrigerator making crushed ice. Wasn't pretty but she got it done. Happy New Year everyone!!!
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7 pointsThanks for the kind words Bob. Wish I were in Florida right now. Getting pretty chilly here in the Midwest this week.
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4 pointsHave used several sets of Terry's decals. Great, artistic, beautiful! Couldn't restore any Horse without Terry's help!
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4 pointsHello to the board, I'm new to the board but have been watching for a few months now. Last summer I acquired a 416-8 Toro Wheel Horse with a recycler mowing deck, two stage snow blower and rototiller attachment. I usually plow snow with my pickup truck but I had to try the snowblower out. So here is a short video of me and the Toro. Hope you enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZTM640L608
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3 pointsStickers came today . This will be the only one on my completely "de badged" Renegade . Thank you Sir , A quality job . -Gene
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3 pointsTerry is no doubt the best there is. Everything I have gotten from him couldn't be any better.
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3 pointsThanks for the compliments guys. I saw the forecast for South Bend. Single digits That same front will make it down here and Our highs will be in the 50's a couple days. Believe me, I'm not complaining one bit. I saw those on your beautiful restoration Nick. That was the first time I saw them on a tractor except for the video on Terry's site. I showed my wife your 416 and she loved it too. We also need to mention that these decals are crazy easy to work with. They seem to defy those little air bubbles.
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3 pointsI put that same set on my 416-H and they really set it off. Terry is the man and always gets it right. I liked them so much I bought two more sets for other tractors I have to refurbish.
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2 pointshere are a few pictures of my first collector tractor that i picked up around 16 or so years ago... it turns alot of heads when it comes out of the shed and makes it to a show. i got it out of a garage sale, at the time for my son to drive. my son is 18 yo and is building a 654 to carry on the tradition
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2 pointsThe C81 that I just recently got only really had one issue,a funny looking hub repair. As I leaving the shop this evening,I thought I would take a look. Which then led to a quick hub swap. Once the tractor was jacked up I could turn the hub 2 inches or so back and fourth on the axle before it would stop. The hub was held in place with a collar and set screw on each side. I had a older set of hubs on the shelf so it doesn't match the other side but it has good hubs on both sides now. I was amazed when I got the hub off,the axle and key were both fine.
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2 pointsFrom a newbie with an RJ-58 and a few questions. I’m the new guy on the block and have just about completed my first attempt at a rebuild, of sorts, of a 1958 RJ-58. It had been sitting outdoors under a tree for many years in the mountains of Colorado. When I first saw it I thought it was a peddle toy. Then I saw the engine and I thought this would be a fun restoration project, something that I’ve never attempted before. After completely dissembling it, I realized a professional restoration was out of my league. I needed access to a machine shop and a professional body shop. So I just decided to clean it up as best as I could, get a few of the real rusty parts sandblasted with AL oxide, paint it, and put it back together. After tightening up a few magneto wires under the Kohler K91 flywheel and reassembling everything, the motor started right up – amazing. I’ve been looking through the Q & A forums to see if anyone has had the same problems as I have. No luck, so hopefully someone can help me out. I’ve found that a 29†drive belt is “about†the right size. However, when the motor is running, it’s spinning the belt and the transmission pulley, even with the clutch peddle depressed. So, I need to start the engine in gear with the clutch peddle depressed. My neighbor said if I ran the Horse up and down the driveway several times (0.4 miles for one round trip) the belt would stretch enough so that it would probably slide over the transmission pulley without spinning it. So far, I’ve completed only one trip without any signs of improvement. My second problem is with the very loosy-goosy steering. If I turn all the way to the right or left, the front wheels lock up and I can only go in circles until I stop and kick the wheels back into the forward position. I’m guessing this is because of very worn parts. Short of welding some stops somewhere to prevent over steering, does anyone have some other suggestions as to how to deal with the funny steering? Jon
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2 pointsI will as soon as the dealer is finished with the EFI diagnostics & it's back home safe & sound in MY garage .
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2 pointsIf it ever snows this winter I will be using this 314 H. In all honesty I don't want the snow unless its on a weekend. Work day snow storms no good.
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2 pointsBrian, here are three pics of the steering pieces before I cleaned them up. The tie rod (part # 12) was bent and I straightened it before re-assembling. I'm just assuming it was straight when it was new. The steering link (part #78) is also bent, somewhat. Don't know if it's supposed to be that way but I left the slight bend in it. Maybe that's where the problem lies. Jon
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1 pointLooks good 312, the smaller tires should do better than the bigger ones.
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1 pointHi Jon, I have attached a picture (hopefully) of belt guides on a suburban which should be fairly similar. I hope this is of help to you. Let us know how you get on. Tom
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1 pointyou need a belt guard to stop the belt from spinning when the clutch pedal is pushed your steering trouble could be a combination of things bent or worn parts post a picture of the steering parts on the bottom side front Brian
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1 pointHi Jon, Firstly Welcome to Redsquare! You have a great looking RJ58 and have done an excellent job on restoring it, it looks brilliant. It's nice to see another RJ saved. Do you have a belt guard on it? I had a similar problem with my suburban 400 regarding it not stopping when depressing the clutch and I solved it by adding belt guides, do you have any on your RJ? I have also ordered a reproduction belt guard because this will also help guide the belt. Tom
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1 pointThanks guys! She is gonna sit in the garage like that until the warmer weather returns. I hat the cold! But I'm sure I will have several question about this one that you guys can answer!
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1 pointWhen you replace the screws for the clips that hold the cam in place, I recommend you use allen screws. An allen wrench is much easier to get in there to adjust the pressure on the cam plate. I had to partly remove the control lever on my 1076 to get the old screws out, then reassemble the control lever, then reassemble the cam and clips. And those screws are an odd length, so had to grind down longer ones to fit. Take pictures before you take it all apart so you know where everything belongs. And have fun. Jim
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1 pointIf nothing else you could use it to shoot oranges! or what would be left of em!
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1 pointAs stated in the original observation, that will work in PA, All of the are already there!
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1 pointHow about 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood from the floor to 4 foot above the floor, then peg board the rest of the way up? I love peg board.
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1 pointNeed a few more details. Because you posted in "electrical" I assume you think it's an electrical problem, but are you sure? Have you checked fuel? What were you doing when it stopped running?
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1 pointHere are some more pictures. The 520H found it's way home but needs a little love in the engine department.
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1 pointIt is always good to hear about successful conclusion to a problem. The folks on this forum are always willing to pitch in and lend a helping hand when needed. I have often added a ground wire to one of the bolts holding the solenoid to the frame.
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1 pointThe ground wire may have been secured at one of the mounting bolts {ground) for the starter relay. If the wire was in fact connected at the relay, this would be a plausible explanation.
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1 pointHey Tim, That gt14 has had some interesting mods done to it. Nice big quiet muffler. The front tach-o-matic. Newer style mower deck with scalp wheels. Manual PTO, original would have been an electric PTO. PLUS a three point . All some nice upgrades that I have thought about doing to mine to open up to more versatility. If everything was done right , should make for a nice little tractor! Good Luck
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1 pointTrainman, Woodham's in Wayland is a full service repair shop. Everything from the biggest to small engine. Nice shop. 1110 133rd Ave. Wayland Mi 269-792-0060.
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1 pointHe sent me the model # and from what I found it turned out to be a 1970 not a 73. He said he bought it from his neighbor and he thinks he seen the mule drive sitting on a shelf. He is going to check later tonight. From the picture of the deck it looks to me like it haves the necessary brackets(hopefully). Not sure what the mower looks like under neath so I don't know if it's needs anything else. Crossing my fingers he finds the pulleys then we will go from there :)
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1 pointOr are you referring to the PTO brake. If so, be sure that the internal spring (104841) is good and pushing the pulley out when the PTO lever is released. Those springs will get weak or sometimes break. Then with the PTO engaged, tighten the brake pad against the pulley with a .012" feeler gauge between the pulley surface and the pad. That should be all it takes to get the pulley to stop when the PTO is released. If that doesn't work, try .010". If that doesn't work, scuff up the brake pad or get a new one.
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1 pointGlenn. the manufacturer dips the boards in a rubbery conformal coating that comes off fairly well by mechanical means. Tugging, snipping and scraping yields a clean pcb. Dental picks, Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush complete the task.