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Hi All, I've been searching for a 160-8 speed for a couple years now, just never found the right deal on one, well yesterday I finally did. This one was about an hr from me, it had been sitting for about 10 years, but looked saveable. I ended up have to change the battery. key switch and points, and all the electrical stuff worked and I had spark. Finally I put some gas in it and it fired right up, didn't seem to smoke to bad either. It needed the carb cleaned though, so I took that off an hr or so ago and rebuilt it , I also attempted to wash it a little bit, its not the greatest, but I'll pressure wash it when we get some warm weather. It seems to run ok and the trans works good too. Has the 13 fin k341 too. I'm planning to just clean it up for now and get everything working good, and maybe paint the wheels. Anyways here's some pictures of it, I'll try to add a picture of it after I get it back together after a little bit of a clean up. Deck is in decent shape, its currently locked up, but feels like it will free up and the shell has no thin spots or rust holes

Why do I spend time on some things? Cuz I prefer red over green I guess. I shamelessly stole the idea from a guy who converted one to a Cub rider. The A-111 was as close as I could find to matching the JD sheet metal so this is what I came up with. Before and after:

New doors on the house, a new kitchen stove, and little trinkets. This was the year that my wife and I decided to put money in to the new house. My son Zach was the big winner with a new blade for his tractor. He was pretty excited when he went outside!

Okay, so I got it off. First of all, do not try to twist it. The shaft has a flat side about 2-1/2" long inside the knob, and the knob is molded with a flat side on the inside. I got PB Blaster to soak in, and it softened the glue on the strip of double-sided tape that was applied to the flat on the shaft. Then I took an old adjustable wrench and placed it around the shaft and under the bottom edge of the knob. Then I tapped the wrench. The knob moved, so I kept on tapping until it was off.

The Calendar order post was pinned at the top of the Tractor section for 3 weeks. I do not get extra made. I did that in the past and ended up paying for calendars that had to be sold at a great loss 6 month's down the road. I do not make a cent on these. Geno I can't believe you missed it. You probably had 300 posts in the time the ad was up!

Santa brought me a package of AA batteries with a note that read "gift not included!"

Bob, i see a few causes for the crack issue.... the whole hood stand area is simply under engineered. the upper steering shaft issue with no decent mounting, the thin sheet metal, the fact that the only thing that keeps everything 'square' is the 1/4-20 screws in the lower dash plate, transmission/brake tunnel cover and front cover underneath the battery. it is an area that gets a lot of sideways movement...... i have been happy with the final result with using a decent mount for the upper steering shaft where it passes through the upper dash section, welding up all the areas that have cracked (yours are some of the worst I've seen on the dash pieces) and making sure all the parts that make up the whole assembly are tightly bolted together. the whole assembly is strong enough when everything is how it should be, but how many tractors have all of us bought from previous owners that have neglected the small areas that have ended up causing bigger issues? this isn't normal with the hydro tractors, but on the 8 speeds the lower dash plate (with the gauges) only has two 1/4-20 screws holding that cover, i usually drill out the cover for the extra 2. the holes are already in the hood stand and it just makes sense to have 4 holding it together instead of the two to help with the side load issue...... one other thing that I've tried to do with all my tractors is not to 'pull' sideways on the steering wheel when getting on and off. with a bit of practice you can come up with a way to get on and off them, limiting the sideways stress on the hood stand and seat pan areas. you can't avoid stressing those areas if you use the tractor on inclines etc. but years and years of getting on and off pulling sideways on the steering wheel and seat areas (with all their build in leverage to the tractor sheetmetal) has got to take its toll on these areas...... i bet you didn't realize before starting this newer model tractor that they are just as much work as the older ones? most of the time they are more work because they weren't built to last longer like the older stuff in my opinion. that doesn't mean that they can't be made into something really special though. i have a soft spot for my older ones but the gt1848 and the 90's 400 series tractors i have are my favorites for seat time and working them. they are just a comfortable tractor to spend time on......

If you slam it into a snowdrift and lose some of those parts, call me. Searching for lost tractor parts in the snow is my FAVORITE thing in the whole world!

Thanks all, here it is after the clean up, doesn't look much better, but better than it was. After a carb rebuild it runs great. . And Jeff, your c160 looks great! I hope to redo this one someday, but it probably won't be for a while, I need to finish up my 57 and 59 first, and would kind of like to repaint my c125, but that won't take much time as its not rusty and is pretty straight edit...forgot to add the pictures. lol .

Nice score Jake! I also always wanted one and when I finally had the opportunity I jumped on it. Mine was in similar condition as yours is. With a lot of work and some cash for new hardware, paint etc I'm sure you can make it look like new. Mine started out like this: And ended up like this:

Mike, I understood what you were saying...it just wasn't worth commenting on.

Hello All and Happy New Year, It was such a nice day and the rain quit early. Temps close to 50.... So I took my kids out back on our property to use the new (to them) 125 Yamaha I bought for Xmas and I brought along my Henry Lever 22 I bought used for myself... Days like this make me appreciate the woods and where I live even more.... so anybody else have some Xmas gifts to show off? Tony http://s430.photobucket.com/user/andoverct/media/008_zps72fmq5l0.mp4.html Lauren Rifle http://s430.photobucket.com/user/andoverct/media/016_zpsz8lbfawe.mp4.html?filters[user]=78517168&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0 Anthony Rifle

I posted a couple pics about a month ago.My 702 was just a stripped frame then.Check out the pics now.I sand blasted,primed and painted the frame and front axle.Blasted,primed and painted the rims.Put on new tubes and tires.Assembled whats done so far into a rolling chassis.The seat ,rear fenders and tool box are blasted and waiting for primer and paint.Gotta combine the best parts of 2 Kohler 7 horse engines into one,clean up the engine and paint it.Been slow going.Had a cold for about 3 weeks that I just can't shake.Enjoy the pics.

What can I tell you, I am Nuts about 953s.

My mother has been plenty9 for a number of years.

Back when I was a kid,I think I was 12(43 yrs ago).I bought my 1st Wheel Horse. My Dad was a (dare I say)John Deere guy.We also had a donkey.One day we were out in the barn and Dad was helping me on the horse turning it into a puller, and when a wrench sliped and he hit and busted open his knuckles.He called the Wheel horse ---Damned old mule, from there we called the tractor Wheel-mule.Friends(?)started calling me Wheel-mule plus my Dad said I was as stubborn as a mule.

My mother... simple as that. I got my first Wheel Horse in 1984 @ age 13.... then my second shortly therafter---spent all summer shoe horning in a different motor (first one long gone...) Mom started calling me Doc. Wheelhorse and walla Docwheelhorse.... my Avatar is my first tractor... its in my garage under a blanket and signed by Cecil the last time he was at the WHCC show... Tony

Id say the snap ring that holds the axle is floating on the inside of the trans you'll have to split it (shallow side down deep side up) its probably still in the bull gear and can cause damage if you drive it like that if the axle doesn't slode out first. Nice tractor btw are you planning to do a full restoration?

You have a very nice mower there. My wife could make to motor sound for you....She is always setting on her trike and going voooooommmm, voooooommmmm!

I think her teacher is secretly building a space ship so he can get back home!

I told my wife she could mow with it but she's gotta make the engine sound herself. I wonder how long it will take her to figure out there's no blade under the deck. The decals are home brewed. MS Word and Avery address labels. Terry certainly doesn't need to worry about me being competition.

It will fit back to a Raider if it has quick attach. Will fit on black hoods but when lifted the shoot hits the hood. A good Kohler 14hp is all I use I've had them on a 520 and wasn't impressed with the little difference in performance.

K-341 Baby! First year too.

We had a Pro thread but no one could understand a thing I was saying there! I was fired upon and have returned their fire!

Buzz came home today. Hopefully to stay!

here's the fix I did on a 414-8 added a plate on the bottom side Brian

there is a listing for front wheel weights on EBAY search "NOMA weight" buy it now is 50 bucks and shipping is 18 more i bought a set from another member for more than this and they are great i actually bought a second set last night from this listing I think this is a great price if this is breaking a rule please delete just trying to help members

The angle iron piece with the round bushing at the end is the stabilizer. Mounts to the right front tractor frame, and stops the thrower from swaying side to side. There should be a shroud that attaches, and covers the belt up to the PTO. The larger 1.5"dia spring is lift assist for the housing. Goes vertically on the right side between a nipple on the frame and a nipple on the box steel mount arm. The short bar with the single bend is the support for the chute rotation handle, goes on a post on the left box steel mount arm. The longer, thinner bar with two bends is the lift arm. The assembly with the curved steel arm is PART of the front lift mechanism that attaches to the front tach-a-matic. Small spring is a mystery, might be the tension spring for the pulleys.

Bitten by the Wheel Horse bug.

They are vacuum operated and I believe they are for the newer v-twins. Cleat

Nice C-160 you found Jake!

Brian, This knob is very hard. There is no flexibility to it. I can't get even the smallest jewelers screwdriver between the plastic and the shaft. Since I have the hoodstand off the tractor and on the bench, I have it positioned now with the bottom of the handle pointing up. I have placed a few drops of PB Blaster around the shaft, and it disappeared. So that means it is migrating down between the shaft and the knob. After I get more Blaster to soak in, I will try what Martin suggested. I'd like to salvage the knob since they are no longer available from Toro.

Nice tractor Jake! Keep us updated with lots of pics when you start fixing.

Just a 14? Maybe I need a valve adjusting @ 225 hours. It works hard! Tried it on a 520 once. Was very impressed. I have a k-341 fresh out of machining going on in the spring. Hopeful it does a better job with the blower. Still no fan of Onans!

Examples that show test, repair, and or replace... https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=starter+solenoid+rebuild+

No i believe it will fit all the other tractors with the tach a matic system bet its advised to use the 20 hp onan

Beautiful job Martin & Mike. Both calendars look great.

Nope! It was all said in fun!

We need to start a pro football thread so we don't get this stuff all mixed together.

It just gets old... I'm just sayin'.

Very nice Horse, a wonderful Mrs. Can your lady visit PA next Christmas?

He sent me the model # and from what I found it turned out to be a 1970 not a 73. He said he bought it from his neighbor and he thinks he seen the mule drive sitting on a shelf. He is going to check later tonight. From the picture of the deck it looks to me like it haves the necessary brackets(hopefully). Not sure what the mower looks like under neath so I don't know if it's needs anything else. Crossing my fingers he finds the pulleys then we will go from there :)

I want to thank all you guys again for your assistance. I put the new starter on a couple days ago and what a difference that made. Starts in a split second now. Been using it the last couple days and everything is running perfectly. I adjusted the carb and the vibration was a couple missing screws in the tin that I found when cleaning off the bench. I truly think the starter was my main problem from the beginning but I am glad I did everything else because now everything is fresh and ready to roll. I'm really excited to get to using this tractor and see how it pushes/blows snow.

Post your needs in the wanted section, you'll get more results faster. As to the belt, some members have gone to Napa or TSC and gotten the cheap belts, and some members, myself included, have ordered the belt through Toro as it comes with a covering on the belt to provide that extra grab... yes its pricey but You'll only ever need to buy one (mine is Six years old and looks brand new)

its all about the looks is it not I am not sure what is forwards or backwards but I know that the fronts are not both not the same looking at it I think I would be going in circles like driving a bobcat turning on its self....

i can not imagine the power that a black hood has (300-400-500) I have 3 857's......8 HP and have never needed for more power WHEEL HORSE,,,!!!!!!! enough said !!!!!!!!

I decided before I roll it outside I would check the compression. It maxed out at 60psi which is half what it should be . I took it outside and tried to fire it up. Still no go. I again checked spark which was good. Tried starting fluid, still no go. I went and checked the manual for the carb settings then went and checked where they were on the carb. Both adjustments were over 1 full turn off from where the manual says the initial settings should have been. I set them according to the manual and tried again. Still no go ! I squeezed the fuel line going from the pump to the carb. I didn't hear any liquid only air. I took off the fuel cap and gently pressurized it the old fashioned way with my mouth. I could hear gas moving through the fuel system. Tried to start it again and it coughed a few times. Then it finally caught and stumbled a little and then smoothed out. Didn't smoke nearly as bad as it did before I tore it down but you can still smell it burning oil. When I had the head off I did notice some play with the piston in the bore so it will definitely need at least rings. I guess I'm gonna just pull the motor and tear it down and what it looks like inside and go from there. Seeing as everyone likes pictures, here's some eye candy!

The Horse got a lift for Christmas! Will make it much easier to work on underneath. Oh I have another question too. Why do my rear axles slide in and out of the casing? I know they should not do this. Trans still works, I mean in neutral it rolls and in gear it doesent. Not sure what it could be? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Evening all I've had an eventfull day with the D200 could get it to charge etc but I've cured that I've also got the origina headlights working I've manage to post a video on you tube of the first proper run still plenty left to do this should be the link - Cheers James