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So do we all have like the "biker two finger" wave when we have the friday night cruise? My arm will get tired.

Been there I had to replace one of mine I think they started with the rockshaft and built a tractor around it.

Leaf season this year seemed like it was never going to end! There was too much rain along with some trees finally only giving up their leaves last week. I use my Cyclone Rake so I need to have them relatively dry. So, we officially had the changeover today. I had the chance to get the "Three Amigos" together again, and the first time with all three to wear their custom un-official MD Farm plates. Still to come are photos of the full Snow Crew for this year.

Been watching this one on CL for awhile and couldn't stand it any longer. I've been trying hard, really I have. Gonna have to Winter it but I just don't see enough 60" decks out there so we went for it. This one was owned by a gentleman who owned a repair shop and had it 3 years. Mechanically it's all new, just needs paint, seat, mule drive pulley cover, matching front tires and decals. Decals are already ordered from Terry.

Had a bad hydraulic hose on the GT-14....the tractor I have my snow-plow on. Got a new hose made and installed. I figured since I was at it, I would replace the filter, so I did. After I got fluid in it and warmed up some, I operated the lift(s) to make sure all was well. The plow didn't raise, so I figured I needed to adjust the lift chain. I grabbed another link and tried it again, and the cylinder moved but not the plow. I looked under the GT and saw that the lift chain was on the floor with a big chunk of steel attached to it. It broke off of the mid-rockshaft! Man was that thing hard to get out of the tractor. I have more nuts and bolts off of it now I may never get it put back together!!

I am copying "Squonk" by naming my tractors. Being off of work for surgery earlier this year, I rekindled an interest in '50s Westerns so the three 5xi are; "Cisco, Poncho, and Paladin." An eBay vendor supplied the miniature copy of the fitting Maryland Agricultural plates.

Or - Kicking Grass and Taking Names.

I used one of those pumps on my diesel tractor to feed the injection pump. No problems so far in about 15 months. My Kohler powered 300 and 500 series tractors take a while to start when cold (I am sure that it is a fuel drain back issue). I think they crank faster with no choke, so I spin them for the first 10 seconds or so with no choke (to fill the carb) and then give them full choke to start. As soon as they "cough" I reduce the choke to about 1/2 way, and they normally cough their way into life. A bit like me in the mornings......

Bob, Frame is hemlock and siding is T&G pine. Here is the update for today. With the break in the weather for the past few days I was able to back fill the wall with gravel, level out the mounted up dirt, grade the gravel a bit and finish all the gutters and downspouts except one. I was also able to get all the edge stiffeners installed to. Tomorrow I should be able to finish the last downspout. Once I get that done I may start on the roof over the entry door.

How about: GENO KNOWS Lawn & Garden Equipment Sales/Service

Blower on the front and tiller on the back... Come get some!

...and here's the original Pennsyltucky special.

Make sure you keep it small, and ideally removable without paint damage (not post-it note removable but I dont want to see bare metal when it comes off) Whenever I buy a car with an obnoxious dealer decal on it, first thing I do is demand they remove it and polish it. Geno is a well known name on here, but to others I feel it might feel like just another chicago pizza joint, ya know? Red Shed: Wheel Horse Sales and Service Red Thoroughbred. Red Stallion ...

Johnny Bucket Uni Sleeve and Roper Drag Blade on a Toro Wheel Horse 523Dxi.

LOL! Two finger salute... I all but fell outta my chair laughing just now.

To answer a few of your non clarified questions, this pic/info may help you better understand- Black Arrow indicated direction of rotation. White arrow indicates a Bar in the Casting representing alignment marker seen centrally through view aperture. Blue Arrow indicates Top Dead Centre of Piston/Stroke. Yellow dotted line represents your estimated position of Points opening (spark occurring) This current position for a spark will not prevent your engine from firing/running....trust me. It represents approx. 18 degrees before Top Dead Centre (BTDC).The Manual should quote 16 Degrees as optimum static timing setting (marked by the line under the 'S' on the Flywheel). The 0.020" Point Setting is an ideal setting, but does not allow for worn parts like Cam Lobe, Breaker Push Rod or Points. The greater the wear (or reduced points gap) the more advanced the ignition becomes (nearer TDC). A good spark on a correctly gapped and clean Plug (should be 0.035" on yours as per Manual). It should be clearly audible when tested by laying it against a clean Ground on the Cyl Head and be visibly blue in colour. It's good that you've done the Head Clean/Gasket leak etc, but I also agree with others here that your main problem is still with the Carb. Your getting there ..........and sorry........... I lied when I said I would not interfere

When are their meetings???? Lol!!

Maybe with a horse head skull for the reaper head instead...with the wheel. Google search the image. I'm still really liking Terry's idea too (post #50)...

I got em,,,,,but they will Probably fit you. Lol hey gene, that sickle tip on your logo, should have a tiny john deere upside down under the point, with its 4 tires to the sky,,,,send a mower message. Glenn

You might have luck finding the solid metal weights in the Troy-Bilt OEM Weight Kit. I bought two of these on clearance at Lowes a few weeks ago. They were just a bit more than what the weights by themselves cost me last year. Plus I have two nice brackets to re-utilize for something else.

The 418a schematics DipTrace Schematic - 418a ind pcb test lights schematic.pdf 418A EDGE CONN PINOUT.pdf DipTrace Schematic - 418a ind PARK BRAKE SCHEMATIC.pdf DipTrace Schematic - 418a ind pcb CLUTCH Schematic.pdf DipTrace Schematic - 418a ind pcb PARKING BRAKE schematic.pdf DipTrace Schematic - 418a ind pcb PTO schematic.pdf DipTrace Schematic - 418a ind pcb SEAT SW schematic.pdf

My wife told me last week to be on the look out for something red showing up at the house in the next few days! Turned out it was the Fire Dept dropping off a real Christmas tree she bought!

Not when put in perspective. "Labor intensive" is a common denominator in all apects of this hobby. Labor tends to show itself as the buy in price to become accomplished in the hobby. Ask yourself which one of us hasn't spent inordinate amounts of time, money and labor removing stuck roll pins or wheel hubs, de-rusting (and sometimes re-rusting), and polishing parts on our tractors.I happen to see pursuing an education and developing an understanding of internal workings of the project as one of the more rewarding aspects of the hobby. Plus, I might wager a bet COD will have a smile on his face when he gets his indicator pcb and RR back, both saved fom the landfill. A universal board is a good idea - IF the wiring configuration to the indicator pcb remains constant, pin for pin, across all models. From what I have observed so far, pin for pin compatability across models is a problem. I have seen some models use a switched ground for the parking brake indicator, others use a switched +12 volts.

You know? Every motor is like a woman, you have to know just the right touch to get them fired up.

I'm putting the cart before the horse on this one but I wanted to thank forum member COD (Steve) for loaning me a defective WH418a indicator pcb to develop a repair test fixture. Steve, I will post the full "story" behind the repair but I wanted to let you know how your contribution will make it possible to effectively and economically repair and upgrade indicator boards for WH 300 and 400 series tractors . Many more secrets have been given up as to how the indicator board functions and what the various failure modes are for the individual components on the board. I was able to make modifications to the circuitry to VASTLY increase the reliability of the board assembly. I'm sure the test jig will evolve as I investigate any wiring changes need to accommodate the 300 series tractors. Right now wires are everywhere!

Been thinkin' of a lawn dethatcher for some time. The BIG BOX stores sell junque. Yesterday I picked up a used 48" Thatch Master for a song. Excellent condition, can hardly wait to give it a shot workin' my lawns. Might even try the implement on my gravel / millings driveways. Any information available for this dethatcher?

Yep that looks like a nice one! Good ole Craigslist!

We need electric impact guns to get the tires fast! And we can put those chariot spikes on our wheels lol

Geno, Great looking tractor!!!!

Probably not... and live to tell about it. Besides... I'd rather fight than switch Nate.

Pick one, lol. No "tea drinkers" in the clubhouse

Not often enough.

An idea which you may already have considered that might make a universal board more plausible would be possible use of dip switch(s) for inputs to route the inputs differently .....

My name came from my family's racing back ground my dad & mom both raced stock car's plus my brother ! We have all raced & rode motorcycle's so that was my nickname in school because I always had the need for speed & my last name was Leedy So that's how you come up with ( Speedyleedy ) !

Geno, my wife saw the photo of your shop, all she said was, "Don't even think about it".......

i have two of them coming and i have nothing to put them on...i'll have to find a project

Love that 60" size matters

Glenn. the manufacturer dips the boards in a rubbery conformal coating that comes off fairly well by mechanical means. Tugging, snipping and scraping yields a clean pcb. Dental picks, Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush complete the task.

You call that small AJ? that's bloody huge in comparison to my space Koen

Steve, I will give a cursory explanation of how the circuits work to help those who have an interest in learning about electronics. Time wise, the next few weeks are going to be a little tight, so bear with me.

I resemble that remark!!! I may be looking for a tiller in the spring....just hinting....

I like the direction this thread is headed.

I built a 28 by 16 shop about five yers ago. Simply put, it is just too small for my needs. I have been toying with the idea of making it larger and that is probably what I will do. If I add another 8 ft to it I am sure it will still be too small.

Post #1 here... Clueless supplied all the terms you need.

Yep and after while it all becomes second nature No problem then your buddy gets on to start it and you think what in the world I s wrong ,it always starts for me !!!

A new fuse block can be purchased from Dell City Electronics. Part number is 73895. It comes with the inserts. There is a reason these two fuses are tied together. They work in unison with the safety switches I believe. I have replaced a few of them but only on machines that were abused and never cleaned after 20 years of misuse. If you open the hood once in a while and blow out the crud that accumulates around them you will never have that problem again. Make sure you order a few extra inserts, as it is easy to ruin one when crimping these wires. By the way, if you get them from a Toro dealer they do not include the inserts. you have to buy them separately. http://www.delcity.net/store/ATC-&-ATO-4!way-Stackable-Fuse-Block/p_10898 Another job for you would be to pull the engine, take off the tins and clean it thoroughly. You will find that especially the rear cylinder cooling fins are probably blocked. If the engine has 500 hours or more on it the valves need adjusting. In most cases the intake valve will be right on but the exhaust valve will be out a bit. Onan recommends De-carbon and valve adjustment be made every 500 hours. Most folks just run them till the rear valve seat pops out. Proper maintenance will most likely prevent this. Proper cooling is paramount to keeping these engines going. There should b e a ring around the oil filter. Lots of folks leave this out when doing an oil change. If you don't have one in there, make sure you get one and use it. It is there to force air around inside the cover. You may know all this but if not please follow my advice.

Got a few smiles letting the kids ride the RJ. Might generate a few new members.