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SUCCESS! So I reshaped teeth on bull gear by grinding the little square notch that was causing transmission to get stuck when moving both axles simultaneously in neutral . Reassembled transmission with bearings in correct places. Tightened everything and tested it. Functions perfectly and now I can move both axles in neutral together in reverse without it hanging up. So prior to rebuild this wasn't a problem since bronze bearings were virtually gone and there was so much play between bull gear and mushroom gear that bull gear was actually scraping center housing. All that play would allow mushroom gear to climb square notch . Once new bearings and bronze bearings were installed everything was snug and aligned properly making that square notch a real obstacle. Also been able to secure a complete set of the later type bull gear and mushroom gear with more teeth. I am however use this one this way saving those parts for another day. Second one to rebuild is already on the bench.

Original topic... bring 'em in the house.

I had a beat up snow cab that was unuseable anymore, so I cut the WH logos out of the sides and framed one. Bought the frame from Hobby Lobby for $25 with glass. The cut the canvas to fit and vuala. I have a second piece of canvas if anyone wants it. Throw me $5 and pay the s/h and I'll ship it to you. PM me if you want it.

I changed plans, the original plan was to use a ranger L-155 style hood but looking at the amount of modification needed will be above my skill level to make it look "factory". I grabbed a tank from another project and the hood from my 62 lawn ranger just to test fit and this is what i came up with, I like it a lot! and the 14hp is too big to fit the carb under the hood so to make this problem work i moved the engine back and i put the battery in front of the engine. this solves fitting the carb and air cleaner issue. I have hood pieces laying around and i will be making the grill taller and the hood longer to make sure i meet the frame like factory and i need to make an extension for the tower so the tank sits at the correct level. Took a small break on the heavy modification and worked on a few "small" things, checked the brushes in the starter, re-wired the stator the old wires were in terrible shape I cleaned the windings with electric motor cleaner and soldered on new wires to the stator, I used 10g wire ( i know overkill) but hey I'm building this tractor to be "super" right? and then i wrapped the two wires in 5/16" shrink wrap to hold the together and added new spade terminals (sorry no pics of that)

deny, deny, deny... OH...OK...I had a hand in it...it may have even been my idea...but Jim thought it was a good idea.

They double as new toys for the kids in the winter.

Something else to try this coming summer. The only thing I'd do differently is put the thermometer in the meat.

Here's a few goodies. An early 60's seat cover. Mirror. And a copper and sterling silver keychain Mrs Funengineer made for me. Sent from my tractor seat.

I don't know if this is the right place, but on ebay under lawnmowers a guy is selling NOS Tanks that look to be the same as the tanks on the Suburbans and maybe the RJ's for less than $30 with shipping included. -Chris from Florida

Hello. This week I traded my 1988 Craftsman III with Onan P220 project tractor for a Wheel Horse C161 Twin 8 Speed project. Me and my friend are happy with the trade, we both had tgese two tractors sitting around not being worked on and we both wanted each others tractor so we did a straight swap. We were asking $100 for each of our tractors sowe just figured heck with it a did a straight trade. He got this tractor in a deal with some others I believe and hasnever done anything with it. When he got it the right side (looking at it from flywheel side) cylinder head was removed as well as the engine tins and coil, not sure why. Engine spins good and the piston and vales operate correctly on the right side, I have not yet had time to remove the other head and see if that side works well. I have a few parts for it already like the engine tins and a coil but I still need to buy a head and the bolts. Should be getting a head tomorrow. The tractor came with a 42" rear discharge deck as well and it is in great shape and all spindles spin good. The fiberglass hood and fenderpan are in great shape with no stress cracks or anything, the hood is a little rough where it meets the dash but not bad. The original headlight lens is gone but a homemade plexiglass lens takes its place. The 8 speed Unidrive unit needs axle seals quite badly. The steering wheel is broken and needs to be replaced. Seat is a little rough as well. Original rear tires hold air fairly well. All in all its a pretty good tractor. I do have some questions tho. What other models have the same steering wheel? Where can I get the bushings for the engine mounting plate? Where can I get axle seals? Thanks in advance for any and all answers to my questions and thanks for reading! I will try and get some photos uploaded soon!

Today I picked up my first. A 416-8 with a kohler magnum. Got a deck and plow with it. Couldn't get my old JD 111 out of the garage fast enough. Now I can actually say I have a real tractor.

And we will mow your grass and move your snow like nobodies business.

Yeah, the bigger the gang, the more power we have. Next stop.... world domination.

Its pretty cool. Horn add to our demonic atitude

See what I mean?

Can we get really bad tatoos and beat up people we see driving MTD's

Maybe... Sons of Marlarkey... would be more appropriate.

Not necessarily a few steps ahead... maybe just because I have this resto behind me.

Thats nice, I saved the link So by this definition I guess I work at a repopping facility?

I was recently sent this ad from a fellow euro member Simon Cole (Landsurveyor) . It is from a small holder magazine announcing the introduction of the new RJ58/59 to the UK market. The article is also dated 1959 & shows some nice photographs

Hmm sorry you had to take the fall for some other "Cohort". I see you have broad shoulders. I know there's an instigator lurking

Deer Whisperer: Just finishing my 27th. year raising whitetail deer. At 25 years I wrote a book about the trails and tribulations of raising brown,white and albino deer .Check out www.deerwhispererbook.com to read the first 2 chapters. Retired after 50 years as a building contractor. I bought my first wheelhorse C120 in 1977 and it still is working.

Mower Cycle Gang, haven't heard that one yet.

Yea Turtle welcome to the Mower Cycle Gang! All you need now is some Ags and you will be set

Hey, I sat in one of those chairs. They are really neat.

Sorry it took so long, last weekend of rifle season here in PA, but here are my proud picks of 416-8 I picked up

8 1/2, really too big for a half ton, but it never goes down the road with the blade on.

Too much yard to clear with the horse. Plus this has heat.

I always keep a lookout for them to, against popular opinion I like them and have had great luck with mine

My '63's original tin decals...these have recently been repopped, have the link if interested.

Photos of my Horse! Also a photo of my Craftsman I traded for it. Cool! Thanks!

Summer-grade fuel has a different RVP (Reid Vapor Pressure) than winter-grade, it keeps the EPA happy... It costs more also and is part of the reason prices rise around Memorial Day when they switch. Gasoline must have an RVP below 14.7 PSI (pounds per square inch), which is normal atmospheric pressure; if a fuel's RVP were greater than 14.7 PSI, excess pressure would build up in the gas tank, and the fuel could boil and evaporate. Depending on the part of the country, the EPA's standards mandate an RVP below 9.0 PSI or 7.8 PSI for summer-grade fuel. Some local regulations call for stricter standards. Because of these varying RVP standards, up to 20 different types of boutique fuel blends are sold throughout the U.S. during the summer [source: Slate]. Because RVP standards are higher during the winter, winter-grade fuel uses more butane, with its high RVP of 52 PSI, as an additive. Butane is inexpensive and plentiful, contributing to lower prices. Summer-grade fuel might still use butane, but in lower quantities -- around 2 percent of a blend [source: The Oil Drum]. Does your head hurt yet?

I don't think Jim is the sole perpetrator in his farce!

I've got these crazy chairs I painted..... Never got to it yet but I want to paint a logo on this UDS too

Here's one of the 'ol crusty, rusty seat pan that came on my Commando... decided, got nothing to lose, so I hand painted it with the WH logo.

its a dragon skull I thought It looked cooler hahaha

When Horses have horns... doesn't that make 'em horney horses?

If you remove your tires often, you might consider changing to lug nuts. I bought my bolts at the Depot and lug nuts on the Bay. It makes it a lot easier.

Awesome AJ! Can he drive it around the house?

I think most of the toe being out is probably from the flat piece were the tie rod connects to the spindle gets bent from hitting things over the years

I've been following your thread, stpped in to say -- super job looks great .

Looks like you made out.I'd trade any kind of Crapsman tractor for any kind of Wheel Horse any day.Have fun with your new toy.

Lane let us know how they fit and thanks!

The conversion rate was $2.81 per dollar back in 1959. That would make the price about $505.00. I'm sure Neil will correct me if I'm wrong. [emoji1]

Who knew... were industry firsts, with the ol' nut roasters, then followed 'em up with some bun warmers too.

Stihl5AEPK7 just to add to your post, I recently did a refurb on a disc and have a considerable amount invested in it because I had no intention of letting it go. No doubt more invested in it than I could sell it for. That makes a good case to sell yours as is and let the buyer do as they will with it. Allow them do with it as they see fit if you don't plan on keeping it.

I had a bit of spare time one day and a few tiles left over and came up with this tile mosaic

Tried to only use rear weights on my horse but didnt work!!

I just love it when new parts show up!