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I own 12 tractors. If you were to ask my wife, she would tell you she doesn't know how many tractors I have and doesn't care. I recently finished restoring one and all she said was that's nice. We have been maried for 49 years and we have learned to give each other some space from time to time. She will come out to the shop sometimes and sit while I work on something but mostly she just makes sure I am OK and brings me coffee, ice water and lunch. I have to get my own beer.

Wow Vin I could comb my hair in the shine on that hood , only I ain't got any hair

Heh! I'm real close to Nicks relationship - my wife will say 'thats nice' also and go on about her interests, but yet will give me all the encouragement I could want to keep on doing what I love. At 55 years we have a pretty darn good thing going :) I have 4 running and a roller and if I were to find something tomorrow 100 miles away she'd just say "call your buddy (groundhog) and y'all go get it"

Penn St., Iowa, Wisconsin, Whichigaahahaack, Ohio St. Sorry guys, no brownies this week. My dog found em..

I posted earlier with my 314-8 that I will be using. I just picked up a Cab off CL thanks to Doc724 who gave me the heads up on it! So I thought I'd post a few new pictures.

Just bought this to replace one of my 74' C-160's I stupidly sold last year. Came with a deck, snow blade and tiller for $600. Question: there isn't a hood ornament on this. Did they not put them on in 77', which I beleive this is. BTW: it's staying exactly how you see it except for the seat. It took thirty-something years to get this great and I love it!

Had just finished first leaf pick up of the season. There will be more!!!!

heres a little keyring i made by casting metal into a laser cutted wooden mould, i thin it turned out ok, let m know what you think? james

After all this chatter I figured I need to do a little more investigation on the claims made in the post. A little poke here and another one there .... let's go back and check that once again, and all of a sudden you have the same issue but now your wiring harness feels like this guy feels. I decided to finally break out my wire piercing adapters I have had in storage for years [never used]. After having to repair several harnesses that had green powdery buildup, bulges in the insulation and stretched an inch or more under tension, and after hearing statements the pierce probes "do no damage 'cause the wires heal themselves", out came my unused set of adapters. I purchased these adapters many years back for that "just in case" event. These are Pamona / Fluke brand adapters which allow the user to adjust the depth of the piercing point into the wire. The adapter is placed on the wire with the screw adjustment all the way out, and you slowly turn the adjustment until the needle probe just pierces the insulation. This feature alone is worth the higher price tag these adapters command. These adapters also have a much thinner diameter probe, leaving a much smaller indentation than less expensive probes. I figure these would do less damage than almost all other probes on the market. http://www.amazon.com/INSULATION-PIERCING-CLIPS-PACK-OF/dp/B00HB7ETXY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1415180991&sr=8-15&keywords=pomona+piercing+probes Two different types of wire were pierced in effort to prove or disprove the "self healing" statement. All these experiments were performed over two weeks ago while the crickets were chirping. Two + weeks later, I don't see any evidence of self healing on either the marine grade 14 awg wire or the automotive quality 22 awg wire shown in the pics below. Next comes the dunk test in salt water to see if any portion of the pierce has the ability to seal out the environment. Results will be posted shortly.

Guys came over today and started to install sliding doors and hardware.

I think I'll start with my story --I've been looking for one of these "little tractors" for about 5 years now, about when I got into "tractorin'." I'm a senior in high school, and am working towards selling off my collection or tractors --but I've still been on the hunt for an RJ or short Suburban. They're simple, and easy to store --and I'm in love with light, low-hp tractors. I've been hoping to find one to restore so that I don't have to completely get out of tractoring during college. I finally came across this tractor, in mid-restoration, about an hour from my home and did some horse-trading to get it. I'm very happy with my purchase. Now, for the questions and then pictures: First, is the pictured rim correct for a '58? Second, is the pictured belt guard correct --if not, I'd be willing to do an even trade for a correct one? Third, does anyone know what this engine would have been on originally? It's a li'l Techy. It has a gear-starter flywheel, and recoil. I prefer the look of the K-91s, so if I can find one reasonably --I'll pounce on it or trade. Fourth, is the exhaust pipe on the Tech. the correct one for the tractor? (Minus the last elbow, of course.) Fifth, the tires on the rear are BFG Power-Grips Garden Tractor tires --original? Sixth, what are the measurements for the tie-rod? Mine is a hack job, with tons of toe-in. Tractor and deck are complete, minus the exhaust guard --Have the original rims, but the tires are shredded. Thanks for looking and any help! --I'm looking to finish/do the restoration again. Hoping to go through the trans, and do a nut-and-bolt. Also have a set of WH hubcaps I'd like to restore for it.

THIS IS SO CLEVER...JUST THINK, A WHOLE NEW ART FORM !! -----

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xAJVri2a1U

You're doing a great job!! Yeah it's never easy but ... just think how much history you're preserving.... Will be watching for your next update

The fuel cock and grommet are under the tank on the back of the tractor - the gas tank needs to be empty to change these unless you fell like playing Tom Thumb. Part 24 and 25 here http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_consumer&mn=21-10K805%2C+310-8+Garden+Tractor%2C+1988&dn=810547R1-47R10048-00022

Captain Planet? C'mon now...

If you find those 2 attachments free then I give up.....

So, it took me longer than I thought it would to get pictures, but here is the Winterforce 2014/2015! The D-250 will only be brought out if large amounts need to be moved, and not during a storm, I may try to put my 48" blade on the 1277, but I don't know if the frame is much different than the newer style mount and will work, I'll check it out. And I'm going to add wheel weights on the 310-8 and use it without chains to see how the Carlisle All Trail's work by themselves. Can't wait for snow!!

Just a thought. You probably should not use "starting fluid" into the carb on these low compression engines. Use "carb cleaner" instead. It is less volatile.

Remember Glenn... he said he'd give you more.

My dog ate a whole pan of Brownies many years ago. We were ready to leave for the Watkins Glen Nascar race and it was like where did all the brownies go? My sister had a dog that ate 2 pies my mother had out for Christmas Eve. Steve, I sent you some reinforcements to help with your picks!

1" by 3" long. That should do it. But,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,there is always the unknown extra stuff. Lol

For the official GRAND OPENING maybe a fire pit outside at night with some dancing girls on the balcony outside the Hayloft Lounge? Always nice to dream.... Seriously though, what a treasure! I know how hard you have worked to make the Iron Horse Barn happen.. I should be able to make it Saturday...

Glen, that is a swap I would do in a heart beat, no biggie to do it either. You will thank yourself for not getting involved in the Techy. You'll have no engine runnin dizzy headache's too fix, more power, less oil burnin and a better all around engine. While the 500 is a nice tractor to find it ain't a Hemi Super Bird or a Corvette Stingray where originality is a must... Sounds like a win win to me! You can make it look 100% original and that would be very cooll, half the guy's out there won't know the difference anyway. Or... you can answer this call.. JERSEYHAWG Glenn!! Cleanup in aisle 7!!! We have a 6hp Techy that has thrown its rod and we have oil all over the place!!! Sorry Techy guys... it happens..

Interesting enough, I stumbled across a few informative posts in magazine articles targeted at the professional troubleshooter in today's automotive arena. Some techs have no qualms about piercing a wire’s insulation any time--or any place on a vehicle. Yes, there are piercing tools that inflict minimal damage to the insulation. Yes, you can treat the pierced insulation with something like nail polish, liquid tape or something similar after the fact. However, I’m well acquainted with snowy weather, road salt and the impact of both on electrical wiring. I have fixed my share of wires and connections that road splash and salt destroyed. Often, visual inspection suggested that the wire’s insulation was damaged or compromised somehow. Sometimes it takes a while for symptoms to appear. By the time the owner brings the vehicle in for diagnosis, the copper strands inside the damaged insulation have disintegrated into a greenish powder! Consequently, I don’t pierce a wire’s insulation unless there’s simply no other way to make the voltage measurement. Instead, I backprobe connections wherever possible. I’ve been using the backprobes sold by Automotive Electronics Services (www.aeswave.com) for years. Likely, these are among the most popular ones on the market. Foreign Service By Dan Marinucci | October 2012 Motor Magazine. and from the supplier of automotive wiring and lighting products Water wicking is a term describing how water can travel internally through and along wires due to some of water’s very strong properties. When water seeps into very small cracks and seams in connectors and wires, it uses adhesion cohesion and surface tension to stick to things. Through high adhesion, water’s “sticking†property, water will hold to surfaces, just as rain sticks to the surface of clothing (rather than completely running off). It is in this manner that water sticks to the copper in harness wiring well, and gets into the small places between the wires and the insulation. Water’s high cohesion properties cause it to bead up and, and through surface tension, it will stick to itself, as shown on a newly waxed car. Water that gets pulled into the small spaces in wiring, between the wire and insulation, drags along more water because it sticks to itself well. The problem escalates when these properties propel the water up the wire far more than the level the connector may have been immersed to begin with. Water can travel great distances by wicking, sometimes causing corrosion along the entire length of the wire. This is the most damaging form of corrosion because it can be slow and difficult to detect until a failure has occurred deep in a wire. It can damage the whole wire length, and when the harness eventually fails, the entire length must be replaced. Sometimes corrosion can appear in the middle of the harness due to a break in the insulation from road damage, or through the use of a piercing probe. Look for signs of corrosion or breaks inside the wire. Using a piercing probe is discouraged, as it leaves a hole in the wire that can lead to corrosion itself. If there is evidence that a piercing probe was used in the past, all holes in the insulation must be sealed. Road debris can also break the insulation and allow moisture to wick into the wire. Swelling in the wire insulation can indicate the presence of corrosion at a break in the insulation. The corrosion will often extend beyond the swelling, requiring a larger segment of the wire to be replaced. Dark internal wire indicates signs of corrosion or moisture, and should be cut further back until clean bright wire is exposed. To begin splicing in a new length of wire, be sure to cut the new section of wire to be slightly longer than needed to assure there will be adequate slack. 1. It is important to avoid any damage-prone methods, such as insulation-displacement clamp connectors. They tend to create more problems than they solve in harsh environments. Use of these connectors also causes the insulation to be displaced or moved out of the way by a blade that cuts through the insulation to make the electrical connection to the copper inside. This is a weak mechanical connection, both mechanically and electrically. The exposed wire and weak connection also provides an easy target to corrosives, arcing, and mechanical vibration. Sealing the connector with tape is also not practical, because water can wick into holes in the tape. A fully sealed permanent repair is recommended to prevent the connection from failing in the future. ©2007 All rights reserved. Truck-Lite Co., Inc. and the last submission I will make revolves around the following YouTube video. Yes, it is 40 minutes long and troubleshoots a harness problem in a Chevy Impala, but the level of professionalism displayed by this individual is what I would expect from any shop. Give me 2 more individuals like him and I could run every other repair facility out of town. This gentleman goes thru great lengths NOT TO PIERCE THE HARNESS just for convenience sake. Notice, no sensors are randomly swapped out. Notice, customer (possibly you ) will not be charged for wrong guesses on the part of the troubleshooter. If anyone cares about how I think a true professional acts ..... here it is.

In fact both pinned topics in this section (and several recent ones by other members in wheel horse tractors) have covered this topic ad nauseam

Working with fiberglass is over rated... if you can machine a stainless tractor you can mix epoxy and watch it cure... Hell I used a trash bag as a release agent. There is not one hint of filler on this hood, just a coat of primer surfacer, base coat red and unwet sanded or buffed clear.

MY STEERING WHEEL IS GARBAGE The original wheel is made by a company called SHELLER after some searching on the net I found one I could use as a replacement also made by sheller with a slight difference the new one is for a 3/4" tapered spline shaft and the original is for a 3/4" tapered key shaft found this NOS military surplus wheel on E-Bay vintage WW2 looks to be a exact match to the original First thing I did was use a tapered 3/4" pipe tap reamer to remove the splines then I made a small fixture and tapered broach guide for a 3/16" broach to cut a new key way the small alum fixture is to hold the wheel at the correct angle so the broach is straight up and down after cutting Brian

Here's mine, a couple more wreck resurrections from the darkest depths of Europe-

This is what I will be using plus the fancy weights I made.

I really like the pics! My efforts are on hold till spring but your update makes me want to start wrenching in my GT14's ASAP.

If you can get Seafoam for $6.00 a can send me a case!

The 2 rolls of tape I ordered came in today. Thought some of you might want to see a better pic of it. I really like it, seems like it grips good and will be easy to clean.

How could he beat me when I offered more before you even bought it?

A 310-8 is 21-29 years old and if the fuel hoses are old or original replacing them may fix your problem. The rubber gets hard and won't seal to the nipples they are connected to. A bubble of air sucked into the fuel will prevent the fuel pump from working. One would think if fuel does not leak out then air should not get sucked in but it does. Garry

We used to have a bar here in New Milford that was called the Hayloft. It was a larger barn that was converted into a bar. Had a mechanical bull too! Hence Ken's comment.

Your welcome.... there's a lot more to keep track of here than there used to be!

He sold it.

I find the more interest my wife has in my projects the easier it is. My wife digs right in, cleaning parts, changing tires, and I mean getting dirty. When I mounted the new tires I needed a second set of hands and she stepped up no problem. I guess after 43 years she is used to it.

thanks to all who have welcomed me. Made some progress the last couple days, a few electrical issues, not really issues I'm just horrible with electrical stuff!!!

What's wrong with the seat?

1975 was the last model year to get the hood ornament. Garry

Well , we can officially close this thread . Got home from work a couple hours ago & parts were here . I had to reorder a bunch of thermostat O-rings because "someone" pinched one during the first crack at assembly. . New o-rings are in along with the new injectors & what a joy it is to not hear that piston flopping around in the bore any more . Just the slight watch-like tickle of eight little valves . Music to my ears ! If you could see my mug right now , you'd see a great big .

Out of sight brownies John...did I mention that my good buddy Floyd (Pink) was playing in the background??

A few more pics from my overloaded Wheel Horse gallery! 1958 Wheel Horse RJ with a Parker lawn Sweeper 1967 Lawn Ranger, L-157 with Wheel Horse dump cart 1978 C-121 with Wheel Horse Tiller 1963 Wheel Horse 633

Just finished up getting cab and chains on. Had to take a break.

Gotta love it when the previous owners tear it up with copious amounts of stupid... You'll get it back to better than new

Power Probe makes on, works nice

When diagnosing an electrical problem, expedience is the driving force. Time is money. The ultimate and most best practice may be not to ever pierce a wire. That is a given. The question is will it harm a circuit to pierce a wire. Under most cases I would suggest that it will not. Now if you were to take a wire bundle and start piercing most of the wires in that bundle in the same spot, there is a chance you could cause a very high voltage to jump across to the wire next to it. But who would do that? If I had to pierce several wires in the same bundle I would make sure that I staggered the point of piercing to prevent arcing. We don't deal with high voltages in this type of repair except for the coil and it would never be necessary to pierce a coil wire as it is always easy to test continuity from one end to the other. Pierce a wire and then dunk it in a pail of water, Remove it and run voltage through it. You won't see voltage arcs jumping around like a horror movie. We are talking 12 volts here at 30 amps or less. mostly less. Ten years down the road that wire will still carry 12 volts at 30 amps and you won't see any corrosion either. This is a silly argument. If you don't want to pierce a wire then take the extra hours of your time to diagnose the problem in the best practice manner. If that is what works for you than that's what you should do. There are times when getting to the source of a wire is just about impossible. Especially when working on cars. The wiring is placed in the vehicle before the instruments and seats and a sundry of other things are placed in the vehicle. Wires run through door panels and under rugs and in the headliner. In my Cadillac, to get at some of the rear lights, I have to dismantle part of the trunk lid. the engine is mounted sideways and to get to wiring behind the engine, you need to take the top motor mounts lose and pull the engine forward. I'm not doing that. I will pierce the wire where I can get at it. This is a matter of opinion. Every one has an opinion and is entitled to it. It is not worth arguing about. I sense that some folks are really agitated over this. Looks like it is about to get nasty. Since I started to write this post, I have received notice that there are six more replies. That is real activity for such a trivial matter.