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here my wheel horse pictures

It's rusty but the deck aside from surface rust is solid as a rock and the blades are newer. Motor has compression. PM said it wouldn't start so it sat for over a year. Muffler is surface rusted but still solid. (Bet it's a maraca inside) The tranny has some water in it. Emulsified gear oil smells like crap!. Axle seal leak also. The steering is really tight from sitting. Barely turns! Tires hold air, rubber is great but as usual, there is some weather checking. I have a drop-in K301 for this if the 10 horse needs a rebuild. Can't make out anything on the ID label. Either way, it's a 1985 or 1986 since it has the K241 in it. I even found out it was owned for many years by one of my childhood friends. It was going to be taken to the scrapper if I didn't get it and we can't have any of that! I have my over-winter project!

I don't know about you, but my shop floor is magical. It has the ability to swallow and make disappear anything dropped on it. Its specialty is anything small and irreplaceable. -Butter Fingers

I picked up a plow that I found on CL last July. We shall see how well the TSC Majic spray bomb paint holds up. Before After Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sorry, but when I read this...it reminded me of this High School girl friend I used to have...thanks for sharing!!!

I'm not surprised Jason. You live in Minnesota where it "Takes 3 years to find anything".

Here's mine. A 74 C-160 with the OHV HH160 Tecumseh. Custom stainless muffler. Halogen lights. New paint, tires and a mint '73 deck.

found this in my back yard,nice cond,700 hrs.probably going to sell the cab,weight's,blower,& blade.planing on restoring the tractor.

I started my annual leaf pickup with my Parker Lawn Sweeper and decided to use the 1958 RJ. I started around 9:00 am by putting the bag on the sweeper and hooking up to my Oklahoma 1958 RJ. The Parker sweeper does a great job and I usually use my 1975 B-80 but decided to use the RJ. The RJ in second gear is just the right speed to pick up leaves well with the Parker. The leaves were still a little wet this am from heavy dew.

End of the day photo!

X2!! Whenever I'm working on my car, I'm always hoping the hear it drop to the floor. It's the ones that don't make it to the floor that drive me insane. You have to find it then.

Just one of Murphy's laws. Try dropping something in the gravel driveway and it will disappear like last weeks pay check.

My grand father 857 from the 70s an it today after it was sold and bought back, my 854 I finished restoring, my 854 and 59 RJ, some loaded up for the big show in pa, and my black suburban rat rod.

heres a few more

Nick- My company manufactures this standing seam roofing panels. I ran the wind uplift calculations to determine the correct clip spacing for proper install. The way this system works is it is only attached at the ridge (fastened to the clip) and the rest is allowed to move up and down for thermal movement. This will eliminate the "oil canning" which is the waves in most standing seam metal roof systems. We tested this panel for static pressure ASTM testing method and it is the best panel on the market. I had all the panels cut to length at our factory so no need for cutting. I hope to have this installed by the end of the weekend.

I made those mounts. Except for the keepers that hold the 3/4 bar tight. They were mounted to the 520 when I bought it. It had a hitch mounted to it four and aft on the axle, not top and bottom. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk These hitches are on eBay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what she said..

I have a Saw Stop in my shop. A few yrs. ago one of the guys I worked with nearly lost four of his fingers.. I told him twice that he was running the wood thru way too fast and that he was getting WAY too close to the blade with his hand and fingers. What happened next was the probably the worst thing I've had to witness thus far in all of my 46 yrs. Four fingers all cut more than half way off. John had many yrs. of experience but he was having a bad day and it just got MUCH worse. He was out of work for 8 months and to this day he can barely move his fingers. His hand is always cold and he can barely hold onto things. he has since retired and he is only 57 yrs. old. A few weeks after his accident we bought the Saw Stop. If my memory is correct I believe it cost 6 grand. (Personally, I miss the old Delta) Anyone that intentionally puts their fingers into a Saw Stop is a MORON. I use the table saw on a daily basis,, I treat it like a regular saw, I don't rush anything when I'm using it no matter how much work they feel like dumping on me. There were three guys in my shop, now it's just me. Last week while I was in the middle of cutting a full sheet of plywood someone came up behind me and tapped me pretty hard on my shoulder to get my attention.. When I didn't stop what I was doing he did it again. REALLY? When I was finished I shut the saw off, turned around and before he said a word I calmly told him to get the hell out of my shop and that he is lucky I don't knock him out. I could care a less if he is a manager or not, ain't my boss... The big emergency? He needed an extension cord.

The superior man, when resting in safety, does not forget that danger may come. When in a state of security he does not forget the possibility of ruin. When all is orderly, he does not forget that disorder may come. Thus his person is not endangered, and his States and all their clans are preserved. Confucius 1:01

If I drop anything and can't locat it, my golden retrevar has this uncanny Ability to find and wash and chew and even degrease whatever. No telling what goes thru, he just knows he is helping, bless his heart !!!

if in doubt go one gauge bigger , can't hurt a thing

When bearings start to go in the idler pulleys they will lock up and get tight before they get real loose. Also make sure the nuts on each side of the spring hook are not tight against the spring. They are there just to keep the spring on the bolt but the hook must be able to pivot. The bolts mounting the idler bar must also be loose enough to allow the bar to slide under spring tension. Also make sure the bushings in the idler bar elongated holes are still allowing the bar to slide. Here is the parts list Garry

Tough one this.... Last year it was this And here's the video http://youtu.be/qRBEHP8sjW4 It's a tough one for this winter, neither Bendy or C4 will take the plough.... Unless I make some serious modifications :)

When that happens to me I just call my wife out there and she will look for it until she finds it!

Good to know I don't have the only one. Anyone ever notice if you drop anything near a car it always ends up right in the middle? They must put a magnet in the middle and not tell anybody. It's a conspiracy I tell you!

Rubbing compound, orbital buffer, wax. Rinse and repeat. It kills me when people leave these things out in the sun to bake.

This is what I will be using plus the fancy weights I made.

Wildcat was made by Hawkins metal works in Lebanon,In. same as the Bantam, Bantam went out of business in about 1957 & Falls products in Genoa, IL. built there version of the Bantam in 1958 the BT4.They went out of business in 58,Mr Hawkins owned a shop in Lebanon & wanted to build a garden tractor so with the help of Bantam founder Mr Poynter they designed the Wildcat. Poynter handled the sales & marketing. They were in business making the Wildcat for 4 years. They had two different grills one like the Bantam & one that was flat on the front with no vents. So the Wildcat is a little harder to find than the Bantam. Just thought it is interesting...

Great save! Wonderful Horse and, for the price, all of us would have mounted right up!

Toy Tool: I am going to start with flux core, but i have a guy here where i can get a full 40cu for $150 if i decided I needed it. ( i really WANT it because I know it will make cleaner welds, but then I would need a cart and it just becomes a whole production that is harder to store) I have plenty of 220 available but I thought that I probably wont be doing that much thick stuff and this would allow me to take it to someone else's house and do some welding pretty easily.

Here is my 314, my Son's pedal tractor and RJ's. Thanks, Darren

Here it is. I hope it works. I know my way around a 50 year old tractor alright but I'm not much good with a computer.

Some winter pictures to consider fella's.

Some of the 16 Auto,,,, http:// http:// http://

Here it is I got the 502 from bowtie guy who said that it was a farmer's who used to be a wheel horse dealer back in the day

Craig....that is a great picture. Nice job!!

Awesome pics, I missed out last year.... Here's a few of mine.

heres some

I submit for your amusement the infamous back-flipping Commando 8

Finally the long road to restore my C-141 to its former glory is complete. She looks good and runs great.

Rideaway Seniors from the big big Biglersville show 2013. AM next year.

If you are rebuilding your snow thrower, many models from the 60's, 70's and 80's, use the same bearings for the chain drive shaft. ST-323, 6-0200, 6-0201, 6-0202, 6-6212, 6-6213, 6-6214, 6-6215, 6-42ST01, 66-42ST01, 76-42ST01, 86-42ST01, 86-48ST01, 98-42ST01, 06-37SB01, 06-37SX01, 06-42ST01, 06-42ST02, 06-42ST03, 06-42ST04, 06-42SY01, 06-42SY02 and others. The bearing part numbers are 107743, 100908, 101702, 101781, or 1968. If you have checked, you probably found that replacement bearings from Toro cost you around $60.00 each. These are the bearings that are inserted into the 3-bolt flanges that hold the shaft on either end. They look like this: The inside diameter is 3/4", and the outside diameter of the widest part of the outside is 52mm or 2-1/32" +/-. This is called an insert bearing, and the outer housing is curved so that when inserted into the flange, it's allowed to self-center. Here it is in the flange To replace both of these bearings will cost at least $100 with shipping if you buy them from Toro. If you search for this bearing online, you will find that a 3/4" inside diameter insert bearing is available, but with an outside diameter of only 47mm, or a little under 1-7/8", which is too small to properly fit into the flange. Here is my solution. I purchased insert bearings with a 7/8" inside diameter. This bearing has the proper outside diameter of 52mm. I also purchased bronze bushings with a 3/4" ID, and a 7/8" OD. I removed the 1/4-28 x 1/4" set screws, and pressed the bushing into the new bearing. Then I drilled and tapped the bushing, and inserted two new 1/4-28 x 5/16" set screws. My total cost for two new bearings, which now is a perfect fit for the flange, was $30.00 which included shipping. On my snow thrower, the outer bearing (closest to the chain) was attached to the shaft with a 1/4" roll pin. Since these bearings only come with set screws, I rotated the shaft so that the set screws avoided the holes in the shaft. There is really no need for a roll pin at that location. 7/8" Insert bearings - UC205-14, $5.63, Bearingson.com 3/4" x 7/8" x 1-1/4" SAE 863 Bronze Sleeve Bearings, #2868T172, $2.51, McMaster & Carr 1/4-28 x 5/16" Black Alloy Steel, Cup Point Set screws, $.11 each, McMaster & Carr All the prices are plus shipping. Hope this helps someone to get their snow thrower running quietly and smoothly again without having to spend an arm and a leg on Toro bearings.

1975 A-80 Ranger is what comes up with this model number 4 Speed with a vertical Tecumseh 8 HP motor and a Peerless Transmission.

Also check the inside of the each of the pulley grooves, where the belt rides - - just a little raised rust in one spot can act like sandpaper or a knife, and after 1,000,000 rotations (2 mowings), it can ruin a belt ( from experience, . . . indicator: fine black dust/shavings ). Glen

Just an opinion, but first, why dont you try putting it on. Then see how it fits? And what needs to be done. I have a single stage also and was considering putting it on the 520 I just got instead of the 416. Glenn

Man... I wish O high yo was closer.