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Heres all of our restored wheelhorses including a electro 12 raider 12 854 with sickle mower and my a-90 special that was extended 14''

Many of you know of Geno and his massive collecting effort, but few of you are as affected as those of us that live within a few hundred miles of him! (I have much respect for Geno, but I have to rib him a little! ) Despite that fact, I was able to wrangle me a horse today (it helps that it was closer to me). Real nice fellow that used to use it to cut his yard but hasn't needed it in a couple years. Its not the prettiest but it is solid. 1991 520H, 683 hours.

Went to look at the tractor the fellow called about on Tuesday. It is a 1975 C-100, and is in perfect shape. I will show the photos, and you tell me what you think it is worth. I will tell you what he wants for it later!

A few weeks ago I come across a sickle bar mower that happened to be for a 1054.....a frame that is 1 1/4 inch wider than the regular frame.....I wanted to mount it on my Charger mutt so....... I bought a 3 1/2" pulley at TSC for the drive......shimmed the right side of the belly mount 1/2 inch on the right side and 3/4 on the left...I really wanted the pivot shaft as far under the tractor as possible and the pulleys to line up on the drive side.....some pictures......enjoy!!! Front drive unit....... Rear pivot.....this part was missing so I had to fab one up.....this is why I had to get under the tractor as far as possible....otherwise the frame supports would have been too close for the pivot hole..... Any guesses what I used for the rear pivot mount????? Nice scratch on the belt guard from my idiocracy.....knuckles and paint always get scraped up when I get too rammy.... One thing I added was a lift linkage.....this sucker is HEAVY.....for now this bent PTO rod is working...... Add I couldn't have got it completed without my bestest friend.......

Basically JD its like this. Your starter motor is most likely not recieving enough voltage/amperage to engage the starter bendix into the teeth of the flywheel. I don't know how mechanically minded you are but first thing you will need to determine that the battery has full power, and is properly grounded to the frame area of the tractor, and the terminals are clean and tight on the battery. If the tractor does not start, the next thing to do is go to the local auto parts store and buy yourself a remote starter switch. Connect one lead of the switch to the pos+ terminal of the battery, the other end to the little terminal on the starter relay. You will have to unplug a wire from this terminal to connect your lead. With the transmission in neutral, engage the remote starter switch. If the battery is good, and the battery cables are good, this should spin the starter motor at full speed. If not then you may want to enlist some help from a knowledgeable friend to further divide and conquor your problem. Note that I said spin the starter at full speed. I did not say spin the starter at full speed and engage the flywheel. Hopefully this will be the case and the engine will start and run. If the starter is turning full speed but not engaging the flywheel, then that is an indication the starter bendix is totally dry and is stuck on the starter motor shaft. You will then need to remove the starter and lubricate the bendix. JD I don't want to overload you with information. If you take it this far on your own, we can get you the rest of the way. I went ahead and and jumped in here this deep because I just had this issue with a 312 tractor (same engine), and this is what it took to find the problem and make the repair. Good luck.

One off brand interloper on the job site was enough.

Try running the engine wide open with the lights on. They should brighten up. The Briggs has an unregulated power supply for the lights. The faster it runs, the more voltage output.

Depending what the membership thinks your problem is here is an engine service manual Here are the detailed wiring diagrams from the 523 page Demystification Guide for your model http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2211-tractor-1994-1997-314-8-wiring-detailed-492-4509pdf/ The tractor operator manual ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> The tractor illustrated parts lists ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> Do you have a test light or a voltmeter for testing purposes? Garry

Not much to add right now. Other things have kept me too busy. I did get the tool box and seat spring installed as well as the front end parts painted. I'll post pics when I get a little more done. This came in the mail today. Purchased direct rather than Ebay which saved a little. He has both styles for Suburbans as well as RJ's. Also RJ 25/35 pulleys and reverse disks. I'm real happy with the guard. I don't know if I'll have to do any mods to it so I'll wait to paint it until I get to that point.

Martin...if you pull up a copy of the transmission manual, you can see what horses come with what transmissions. The #5045, 5047, 5051, 5059 and 5058 were all basically the same heavy duty bi-level gear differential transmissions with 1 1/8" axles. So, looking at the list...those transmissions are in the 1054, the 1965/1054A, none in 1966, and the 1057 and 1257, If the list is correct, that is where they are. Thanks Garry for telling us how to do searches for these manuals.

Looking forward to getting back out in the barn after school tonight. So much to be done, yet we are so close on both machines. The kids are starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Tonight will be a little different as well as this is our first time adding some new club members. There will be two young 6th grade boys who are just great kids that will be joining us. They are very eager to get their hands dirty! I don't think they have a clue what is about to happen! Last night I hooked up the open trailer and loaded up the tractor that was won through the essay contest. After going over all of the safety rules, procedures, expectations, etc. the disassembly might begin tonight on the B-80. The other kids in the group will be plugging away on the other tractors. Things are about to get interesting to say the least. Tune back in and check how we are doing!

Proof of life! (warning: 4 minutes of listening to an Onan and watching me steer around a parking lot)

I hope we are. Of course if you start trolling Eastern Pa or Md, that might change. I might have to send my cousin Guido to pay you a visit.

Geno, I can take anything apart.....................................

I've tried it out only a little on some day lillies....did a great job....the road crew just went by a couple days before I had it ready and mowed the roadsides.....bummer I'll try to get a good video of it.....not what I already have....lol

Okay, this is where I get excited, seeing the barn frame on the truck... Wait, where the heck are the photos of which you speak?

Go here and type in your model number. You will be able download all the service manuals for your tractor. There is one on there with over 500 pages in it. Make sure you download that one as it is the Demystification Guide and is the most important one when it comes to electrical problems. http://www.toro.com/en-us/parts/Pages/PartsLookupResults.aspx?searchTerm=73402&BasicSearchFilter=equipment First I would make sure the battery is fully charged. Then check the ground wire for a good clean connection.

Looks like your 314 is from 1997 Your Kohler motor is know as a Magnum engine (meaning it has a magneto instead of points) others, who own this set up, will chime in. there is a great topic search engine on this forum. also great downloadable manuals etc for free! Welcome aboard!!

Please, if you start cutting wires, at least take photos so you can see how to put them back together.

I hear that. If it's not original it's probably a better design and certainly something that's easy to make.

I finished up the steering today. I replaced the two bushings on the steering system. I shimmed the smallest gear that works with the fan gear. I used 5000ths shim stock. I left the smaller block as it was. I felt it wouldn't have done much good to shim it. I now have 2" of play in the wheel. I'm very happy with that. It's the same amount of play as my other 520H that has 355 hours on it. Before I did this, there was about 4 1/2" of play. Next I'm going to clean the breather valve and baffle, cylinder head deposits and adjust the valves. How should I go about cleaning the breather valve and baffle?

Hi, just thought you may like to see some pictures of my Raider 12. I bought this as a project nearly two years ago to keep me amused but with the intention of using it to cut grass as I had just purchased a small barn in SW France with half an acre of grass. As always these things take longer than intended and other projects jump the queue. But its nearly finished now, only job is to cut some Perspex for the lights and put the replica decal on to finish the job and sort out the parking brake. I have the right angle piece of metal but can not work out how to fit it and did not take a picture before taking it all apart, can any one help with a picture as the diagrams I have seen have not been very clear. More importantly I have a fuel problem, I used the horse about four weeks ago to cut the neighbours grass and it ran and idled perfectly but today when trying to start it petrol poured out of the front of the carb. I got it started by clamping the fuel hose between the pump and carb with a Mole wrench and then when the engine was running removed the clamp. But it would only run fast and if the throttle was reduced it would run rich and stall. My thoughts are that there is dirt in the carb blocking the float valve but I rebuilt the carb and fitted new hosed and fuel filter so there should not be any dirt in the system. Is this the petrol 'going off' and sticky in the short period of idleness? The machine has been kept in a dry garage and the fuel is recent and works in my other mower, any suggestions here would be appreciated. All in all a successful project and only one part left over with out a home, but as it works it can't be too important. Just need to find some wheels and ag-tyres to complete the project. Next job is to take it all apart so it will go in the car and take it to France. Lastly thanks to Meadowfield for the decals that really finish it off. Andrew

I would contact Boomer. If anyone can tell you how to fix it he can.

Even as a dealer we have been known to get SH parts from the US, but Hayter are pretty good now with the stock they keep. Dont forget that parts that are no longer available in the USA are still sometimes in stock over here, we got several GT14 parts that are NLA in the states.

Better lock it up tight, Geno could be on the prowl

That thing looks great Bob...I wish I would have bought it when I had the chance!! Maybe someday I'll be lucky enough to own one for mowing around the ponds and ditches on the farm here

well may get to work on it some today but on a side note I sold my barkbuster to Geno, him and his wife are nicest people I have been around for a long time. If I could have I would have just gave him the barkbuster and all I can say is God Bless Them.

Over the years, I have seen several newbies on Red Square ask the question: Where do you find Wheel Horse tractors to buy? The normal answer is CL, Ebay, local trader & classified ads. Once, some responded with, "If you look long enough, they will find you"! Well, I have come to this point in my collecting! This evening a guy calls (I know his wife) and said he had a WH he got from his brother and didn't want it anymore. Lots more to the chit-chat between us, but I asked, "Do you know what model it is"? He said yes, "It is 10 horsepower"! I still don't know anything about it, but will look at it tomorrow!

I know that you will like it. It is the same as the one I bought for 75 bucks at the Zagray Farm show last summer. I would go ahead and replace the auger belt. I have found that many people sell their snow blowers because they stop throwing the snow like they used to. Its a pretty easy job and better to do it now than when their is 10 inches of snow on the ground. I couldn't have done without mine this past winter. I need a path out to the wood pile and my spoiled Beagle won't go out and do her business in deep snow so I need to clear some pathways for her. The nice thing about a blower is it doesn't leave messy snow piles all over the place and my yard no longer gets all torn up from the tractor with a blade on it.

Look at the first pict...see those eyes? Poor can't wait to get off that JD trailer. Nice score Brandon.

you are spot on Ed. I've added the ones around here that i use and updated some others as well. the importance of users updating and using accurate info on the site can't be emphasized enough. without testing the individual stations, its all anybody has to go by.......

Martin, and everybody... The pure-gas.org site relies on guys like us to keep their information current. Feel free to add stations to their list. Which reminds me, my favorite station in Virginia isn't on there... yet.

I thought I would post the clean up of the 502 I got at the mid mo meet and greet its been a while sense I've had a thread about what I've been working on. Here's what I have the belt guard says its a 502 but I think its a 552 it has the battery box and the HH55 looks original and it ran but the valves are shot and the seats are very pitted someone reground the valves but did not recut the seats so it would run but wouldn't pull its self when I tried to ride it around the yard I cleaned it up with sos pads and pulled the motor I'm not going to paint it I like the old pinta here's sum pics

You got gene drooling on that one,,,,,,,,,,,, trust me. Lol Best of luck. Glenn

Digger 66, I could not agree with you more. I have driven a truck for 30 years. First time I hooked up to 28 footer after pulling 45's and 53's it's like I had never backed up a trailer before. Kinda like trying to back up a 4 wheel wagon.

Here are the 2 Ford paint colors used Garry

If she's peeking over your shoulder like mine does all the time, I'm sure she doesn't look a day over 29.

Any 8 speed from 1978 C series and 300/400/500 through end of production will be a drop in replacement. However, not all of the 8 speeds were 8 pinion differential like you have in your C121. Some of the low hp 300 series were 4 pinion differential (meaning not as robust). I think all the 4 pinion models had 1 inch axles while the 8 pinion models had 1 1/8 inch axles. If you put in a 4 pinion trans, just remember to go easy and get your original back into the machine.

The belt guard is off...

I got the motor switch out today to a HH-60 that had setting on the shelf for about a year and it fired right up and runs great needless to say I'm super excited here are a few pics I still need to get it all wired up and need to paint the wheels

I like my ensure in chocolate flavor.

Just a two wheel cart? Practice. Four Wheeled Wagon? LOTS of Practice.

As we all well know second place is for the birds! I am really not hoping to finish there or who knows I could end up in the basement serving donuts and ensure or something crazy like that, anyways I am not going there. I am going with the home teams this week other than one. I'll bet you'll never guess which one??? Give up??? I'll take the Iowa Hawkeyes over Purdue at home. So just for my "Special" Dino we are going with Penn State, Iowa, Rutgers, Wisconsin, Michigan State, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio State, Nebraska I just luv it when a plan comes together. Once again boys in girls it time for As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!!

Definitly the bevel gear differential...If I was you Craig I would also pull it apart and check the internal gears...This is the same differential in the 953-1054 trans and are know to be weak....but the 953-1054 ia alot heavier machine than the commando..The gears are known to crack and the plates inside that float with the pin that hold the other set of gears are known to crack and break....I have replaced a few of them...also have swapped in the 8-pinion differential in them too....This goes to show that just what the books say isn't always right..I have learned something new by this Thread..And it is good to know..Thanks for the great pics!!!!

Wasn't sure if the 1-1/8" numbers were in there...going to check now. Humm...is the Torrington B-1816 # at the bottom of Steve's third PDF the one I'm in need of?

Don't let Bowtie Guy hear that he almost didn't let the seat go with the tractor.

he's got skills.... and he knows how to use them... sounds like the beginnings of a ZZ Top song!

I concur with everything you have stated Andy. I imported many parts, New and Used from 2009 on and the shipping was not too bad back then. I also brought several parts through my local Toro Stockist (Tim & Simon) Import Shipping costs make it now virtually undesirable to buy from the U.S, and that is not accounting for Import Duty. Although a few U.S. Sellers are still pretty good with their charges, and I will still use them. Always a dilemma where you either pay more because of availability (US) or wait for it to become available here and have less choice of condition (if a Used part). Nice to have more than one option though. I tend to buy my Service Kohler parts from the U.S. anyway. .

I can just make out my itty bitty tractor in one pic. That 1 senior looks Heavy Duty! I never knew they made a" Senior 6" :bow-blue: