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On Friday, I decided to move the B-100 (worker) from it's summer home (behind the shed) to it's winter home (beside the garage). First thing that I found was a dead battery. Okay, this battery had a date of May 2006, so I wasn't too upset when I had to get a new one. But in checking voltages, my meter said that the charging system was putting out 17.5 volts DC. Hmm... We all know from past electrical discussions that a poor ground on the regulator/rectifier can cause over voltage, so I removed the leads and checked the stator voltage. Good 40 volts AC. Then I cleaned the R/R mounts, made sure that I had a good ground. Tried checking voltages again, and still had the same 17.5 VDC. So, good AC voltage from stator, too high a DC voltage from the regulator/rectifier. Conclusion? Bad regulator/rectifier. So I go rummaging through my collection of R/R's to find one that didn't have too many spider nests in it, cleaned it up, installed it, and...still 17.5 volts. Now I am scratching my head. So let's go back to the beginning. Stator voltage - 38 to 44 volts AC depending on RPM - check. Good grounds around - check. Bad regulator/rectifier - maybe Pulled out another R/R and still the same 17.5 VDC. Okay, this calls for some serious thinking. So I sit down with hot cup of coffee and it comes to me. Check your meter. Took my meter over to a known good battery and it read 16.5. Conclusion? BAD METER in the DC mode. Pulled out my back-up meter and VOILÀ, 12.5 VDC not running, and 13.8 charging. Moral of this story...don't jump to conclusions when it comes to electrical issues.

You're right Mike, I only had 1 as of 3 months ago. Actually I started this looking for 2 others, one for a snow blower and one for a blade to do the lot and drive at the shop. Then I learned about all the attachments and how they could be very useful to me, or others including my customers who always try to buy mine. The more I learned and saw, some sort of obsession set in, I can't explain it. I really am addicted to I'm sure a lot of it also is that all I have done is work, eat, and sleep most of my life and now I have finally found something that I really enjoy. I also really enjoy my time here on the board as well, whether it be trying to help or just having fun. The great people here make it even better and I can't wait till we get things in order enough to start going to some shows! Then there's also the OCD. I've fixed and sold a few already, also many of these will be restored and sold as soon as the snow hits with a blade or blower. Then next spring with a deck or tiller or whatever someone wants. Won't make a lot of money but it's sure a lot of fun.

If by some chance with my Schedule, and I forget or miss picking games for whatever reason, I am Appointing Dino Executor of my picks, in my absence. I hope he doesn't pick MICHIGAN. Signed THE DUKE Go Hawkeyes

I thought I would post the clean up of the 502 I got at the mid mo meet and greet its been a while sense I've had a thread about what I've been working on. Here's what I have the belt guard says its a 502 but I think its a 552 it has the battery box and the HH55 looks original and it ran but the valves are shot and the seats are very pitted someone reground the valves but did not recut the seats so it would run but wouldn't pull its self when I tried to ride it around the yard I cleaned it up with sos pads and pulled the motor I'm not going to paint it I like the old pinta here's sum pics

Absolutely! Geno didn't know it had been oversold, only the seller did. (Buncha bums on CL sometimes, this is not the first time this has happened to me!). I was about an hour into a two hour drive to go get it and thats when I got the "my wife sold it" text. I just knew it was near Geno somewhere and I figured that he probably gobbled it up seeing his purchase spree lately! Geno's a good guy and is keeping a lookout for me . That tractor (not the one in his pictures, the second one I went after) was quite a deal! And luckily the guys at Sunbelt are standup characters and gave me my money back on the trailer rental without me even asking for it! (The trailer I normally use can't hold a 60" deck)

thats great you finally got it working. onan engine electrical can be tiresome and frustrating to work out whats wrong sometimes...... so, just to make sure here, you went through all this drama and aggravation pulling flywheel and other engine components, bought a new ignition module, removed and replaced various ignition components etc. etc. because of a loose wiring connection? you've probably learned a lot more about your tractors engine and how the ignition system and associated components work so all of this wasn't a waste of time, i just think you could have avoided much of the frustration that you encountered by thoroughly checking out the electrical harness to begin with. its still not clear if you discovered any of the ignition components were to blame for your problems, thats one of the problems when replacing parts with out testing. maybe you could clear that up by testing anything you replaced ( you did the module already by replacing the new with old and it worked). the coil and other ignition components could be tested to see if they were the issue. As you found out, parts can only be reliably tested by fixing or bypassing bad electrical issues on a engine or tractor harness first. (that was the idea behind the jumper wire to the coil, bypassing the bad connection/problem area that hadn't been diagnosed yet) hopefully, the problem is fixed now.

Picked up some wheel horse brochures! What do you guys think?

Thanks Martin. I've been looking into this a little bit and Cabot is what I've been seeing a lot of recommendations for. The other popular option appears to be a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and something to thin it with so it will soak in and dry. Via Tapatalk 4

These things are terribly addictive!

Don't have to worry about AJ, he's cool.

Oh yes, I know.. I'm just picking on Geno.. We have had several phone conversations and e-mails back and forth.. Its all in fun, he knows that! [emoji2] [emoji6] I'm going to edit that post to avoid confusion to the community.[emoji6]

51 Case DC this weekend. Good day with my dad.

No problemo for a car lift for sure. It was 3 trucks and the slab came out really nice. Nice pitch etc. Funny thing is the concrete contractor had his eye on the horses.... wanted to know if I had any for sale. He liked how smooth the 520 with the plow on it ran.

I think you have finally gone off the deep end. The big problem I found with having that many tractors is time! Even if they all ran and operated perfect there just isn't enough time to enjoy all of them. That's why I sold off the majority of mine. Couldn't see owning them if I wasn't gonna use or enjoy them.

Too bad you can't watch Terry Bradshaw pick these games. You could pick the exact opposite of him and at least bat .750!

Jason, its funny you ask because i was looking at the deck this past weekend while loading and unloading for the mid mo meet and greet. i think its held up well for the amount of effort i put in and how weathered it already was before staining it. there are a few areas around knots etc where the harder wood grain didn't let the stain soak as much. the trailer gets used every few weeks or so for hauling either tractors or some construction materials etc. not as much as some people here use them hoarding tractors down south, but it does get used. there are a few areas where the wood is damaged a little and it has lost its color, it probably could do with another coat, that will depend on what time i have before winter. as far as storage goes, i think it spent a week inside last winter, the rest of the time I've had it (15 months now) its spent its time outside. it gets almost full sun in the middle of summer and the brunt of our winters. i think for a horizontal surface (not like a fence where moisture runs off) its done fairly well...... heres some pics that should help for the rest of what you asked......

My first name is Ray , and i have wheelhorses...so after a few days of pondering ,i came up with rayshorses.

The issue was never me buying it out from under anyone Nick, glad you brought that up. He said his wife sold it supposedly not knowing that it was already sold. I just called Brandon and found out what happened. He sold it to both of us last night (and maybe even someone else who knows). I think the guy was thinking like some do when things are on CL, who knows if anyone will even show up. I told him I would be there early this morning cause he was only 20 minutes away and I wanted to get it before the shop opened. If I knew Brandon or anyone else had said they were coming to get it I would have told him like many others, if they don't show up call me. I don't do that to people. One thing I know for sure, his wife didn't sell it to me, he did.

If we are all honest, that handle fits the whole bunch of us !!!

The thing that makes this forum so great is the total experience of the membership and their willingness to stay with a problem until it has been solved. There are very few who claim to be total experts on all problems but up here you will always find someone who is knowledgeable with your particular problem. Factor in the friendliness of the entire group and you can see why no one goes away with an unsolved problem. As for the problems of the Onan, I submit that if folks would only follow the recommended maintenance procedures, such as valve adjustment and de-carbon every 500 hours, and especially cleaning under the engine shrouds so air can flow, these engines would last a lifetime.

Yes even doctors make mistakes. That is why our fees are so high. We need to carry extra insurance called " Medical malpractice". Check to see if you policy has a "dumazz" rider, if not get it added.

Glad you are not near Florida....... hard enough finding them and the parts for them. Although my dad managed to round up quite a few. Ill have to put a camo net over them so you can't see them with Google maps, lol. Glad to see at least someone is getting them and doing something with them. Nice score!.

Well the wrench is turning the right direction now

Hi All, Just wanted to send a couple photos of the 520-8 tilling the Garden today. Tractor and tiller did a great job, for the exception of the hitch retainer opening and allowing the tiller to come out of the bracket. I may drill and pin it to keep it closed. Well here's the pics. Take care Mike

So Geno, I gotta ask?? What's your "Grand plan"? I thought I saw you post awhile back that you had had one WH for many years and just a few months ago decided to collect. So here we are a few months later and you keep haulin em in....at an incredible rate! Are you gearing up a long winter of restoring? Or are you planning on flipping a few? Maybe start a WH parts yard like Kelly has? Or are you just shooting for a massive herd? I'm just curious what, if any, your WH goal is. Mike.......

Since I need to wait for the foot pedal from Matt, I decided to put a few decals on the old girl. I am going to get an Exacto knife tomorrow to make good clean cuts for the holes. I can't do the hood yet as I need to wait for the paint to dry and then paint the black. But I am liking what I see so far. I really like what Terry did on the decal for the gage plate. Top line says Restored by Nick Caprinolo. Nice touch and much appreciated. He does an outstanding job on these decals. I am glad I picked the Patriotic decals for this one.

got a little red on it now. deck was weathered from sitting on the trailer lot for 4 months or so. waxed the powdercoat and stained the lumber on the deck a nice redwood color......just need to load it with tractors and go traveling.....

Hello All, short story--I bought a 1984 Bayliner Cierra 25' boat for the Volvo 290 Duoprop outdrive... anything beyond that was gravy. Boat was abandoned 10 years ago after the owner died... it sat uncovered and the hull is shot. Motor was left uncovered and was covered in leaves, dirt, mouse nests and any other terrible "crap" you could dump on an engine... Well I tried to turn the motor over in the boat and it wouldn't budge... figured it was seized and shot, so I pulled it out to strip it for parts and get the boat cleaned out to be crushed. I started looking at the motor and pulled the alternator off---the first surprise was that the alternator was seized and the belt was rusted in the pulleys. So I then tried turning the motor over and it moved, stiff as heck but it moved. Out came the plugs and nothing but rust.... I filled the cylinders with kerosene and turned it over slowly and let it pour out and carry away the rust and crud. The distributor guts where rusted to heck so I through a Mallory electronic unit in.... I also pressure washed the motor out of enthusiasm. The risers are dated August 1998... and after I split them and checked them out they went back on. I added some fuel and some water and heres how it ran... no stuck valves and the carb didn't even act up! Simply amazing how an engine can sit for ten years and get rained on, peed on, filthy and so on and still be OK... I ran it for about an hour and fogged it out. Its going to end up in a 25' sedan cruiser I'm putting together. The way this motor turned out was a stroke of luck.... I haven't seen any other similar situations turn out this good. Heck--I've seen motors rusted completely solid just over the winter after sitting uncovered never to run again.... s430.photobucket.com/user/andoverct/medi...zps8740f6f5.mp4.html Tony

So, the new batch of SKF-11050 1-1/8" axle seals came today... decided to dig the other seal(driven deeper)out of there before attempting to put a new one in. I guess we should have explored that number off of it, that you were asking about Steve... because once if punched a hole into it, a small piece of metal was laying in there...didn't want that to falling back into the trans... took a small pick and a screw driver to carefully lift it out...sure enough, that little piece of metal lying in there had nothing to do with a seal at all... it was actually just the end of an alxe needle bearing instead. Decided...well, I've got nothing to lose at this point, so I cracked open the case so the trans guru's can have a peek at the guts in it... then discovered in my haste, I should've let it drain a bit longer before I did. So here is where it sits tonight. Guess I'm going to need a # for the needle bearing I have to replace now... and some assistance from the forum to help me get it back together in one piece.

Been looking for quite awhile and have been torn between an open or enclosed trailer. Both have their positives and negatives for my intended use, which other than hauling a few red ones around the place, I sometimes need to haul lumber/building materials, maybe a car, whatever...... I also needed to consider the possibility of a larger full size tractor in the future, (maybe)... I've liked the fact that the enclosed I used was secure and kept everything dry, but it was like towing a brick wall behind my old red Sierra, gas mileage sucked, Been using an open just recently and it's like there's nothing there. Well, I've gone and dragged an 18 ft flat bed car hauler home for future hauling duties. It's staying open at the moment, but may end up getting some tractor height front and sides, sort of like the low height motorcycle haulers..... At least I can take 3 or 4 comfortably now, the enclosed would only fit two and it was a pain in the rear to load.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is the exact reason I choose to swap the trans from the 105 to the 100. Because the hub had creeped its way towards the trans and after some quick searching on here, I decided it would be better to swap them. I am glad I did because I would have been Assistant Captain Dumbazz!!

Yeah you get paid Geno ... I'm printing you a brand new 25.00 bill with a Kohler engine on it for the portrait. hehe It took a little bit to get the gap closer (no feeler gauge atm) but I got it close. I honestly Don't know how it was running as wide as it was gapped ... Does go some way to explain the hard starting when Hot (think its boiling the fuel in the carb too though) Pictures & Video ... If I ever get it uploaded!!! Idling ... waiting patiently What she's mowed (this is only part of the front yard)

Welcome

I peened one back in to place like that, it held fine. Mowed an acre and a half for a season with it and no further issues. I have had multiple Onans that the intake valves would run themselves so far out of adjustment the valve would no longer fully close, the lifter would still be holding it open. Adjust valve so you have definite clearance and spring is holding the valve shut, peen the aluminum around the seat with a center punch and hammer at 12 o'clock then 6, then 3 and 9. Do this lightly, remember it's aluminum. V if you haul off and whack it you'll have a huge dimple in the block and push the seat out.

Gear reduction steering has 2 fittings, one you access from the top between the steering column gear and gear closer to engine. The other one you access from underneath basically right below where you just greased on the small block holding the lower gear. Also do not forget the tie rod ends, spindles, front axle pivot, and wheel bearings. Standard steering models just have the fitting you access from above, the spindles, front axle pivot, and wheel bearings. Cleat

So I came home, and first thing, even before coming into the house, I went and pulled the points cover ... Spun the motor over to open the points and The gap was big ... really big ... between 1 and 2 mm ... So I pulled the gap down and fired it off ... No knock ... Now I don't know if that actually fixed it, or if it just ... didn't do it this time. The Points are pretty worn so I'm gonna buy a set when I get the rest of the parts for the other motor. The sad thing is I have a set already somewhere in the shop (bought 6-7 years ago) ... I gotta get organized! Will keep ya'll updated if the knock stays gone, or comes back. :thanks:

In 30 + years of repairing stuff I've learned one thing. If something doesn't make sense it's usually something stupid that is wrong. No lying here, When I started reading Bob's post after he replaced the regulator the first time and still had the same thing Bad meter popped into my head. I have a furnace right know that misfires once in about 100 cycles. I have data recorders plugged in all over the place trying to catch what's going on. Real PITA. I use Fluke, and Field Piece meters and occasionally need to grab a Craftsman inductive DC ampmeter. I even got a $2.00 Johnstone Supply meter I keep in the truck.

Another culprit to look for is a leaking fuel pump. If the diaphragm gets a small hole in it, it can still pump gas (weakly), but gas can get through the hole and end up in the crankcase.

Well at least we have a plan for next time. If he finds something close to me I'll go pick it up and pay for it so it will be here when he comes to get it. What's the worst that could happen, if he doesn't show I'll just keep it.

Haven't been to that show in two years. Nice place, with lots of room to ride as well. Great show to relax at as there's not much "hustle and bustle" going on there. Thanks for sharing the pics.

Brings some down to Florida. We need more of them here.

Nice Geno, I guess you weren't kidding when you said they would become an addiction, lol

How do you pick up the pennies with those short arms?

well, I've made progress but am disappointed it hasn't started or driven... I was optimistic and naive that it would just come together today and work, however a few things have stopped me.... 1. I bought the motor unseen, upon sitting it on the frame and lifting the dipstick there's no end on it. Did it snap and fall in the bottom? 2. The motor overhangs the frame and will need a small mod - I already knew this 3. My throttle and choke cables haven't arrived. 4. The motor has no fuel pump! So I've got the clutch and brake linkages sorted. It went together really nicely with very little modification. Just a new link arm to pull the brake band. On the reverse side I repurposed the clutch idler, but added a Land Rover Discovery cambelt tensioner as a reverse idler. Further downsides, the belt arrived but is too long... my engine pulley really needs to be a taperlock as it's from a briggs and was held on by a bolt.The magnum doesn't have a thread in the drive end. So it's a reasonable shopping list this week: Battery Seat Taperlock bush and pulley Longer belt Fuel bung and tap for tank Fuel pump Starter switch Solenoid

old pic but same view but with different occupant Brian

Was thinking of different ideas for a front weight on my 633 and this is what I came up with. Simple yet effective. It weighs 40lbs and it's made from flat steel stock and concrete filled lolli columns. Just had them around the house. The best part is if I need more I can jus weld on what I need.

Which one?

I have measured it and it doesn't appear to be. Im using digital caliper not a micrometer so there could be some accuracy difference.

You'll love the extra space. I know I do.

I purchased 1/2" rebar, cut the sticks six foot long. I drove the bar in the ground about 2 feet and spaced the bars 10 feet or so around the garden. I left a four foot opening at one corner. Per the advice of a fellow that worked for me, (farmer kid), he said, I needed to buy a fence unit that is capable of knocking back a steer. He said the hide on a deer is about as tough and the extra power is needed to repel the animal. He further said to install a hot line at four inches above the ground, run a ground that is in contact will all the rebar’s at about twelve inches, another hot at twenty four inches and another hot at forty two inches. I attached the end of the run with extension springs so I could turn off the unit and access the garden with little hassle. All worked well and no more problems. I must say, I could have imported tomatoes from Italy cheaper!