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I was doing some random Google searches this evening and found this nice woodruff key size chart and a pdf link to another one. I thought it might be of interest to all you members who are delving into these transmissions to repair them. It could help you identify what size new keys you need to replace. It's even Stevasaurus Approved! And the pdf link.. http://www.stdsteel.com/wk.pdf You can print this out to have on hand if you want also. I hope this will be of some help to you all. Jim

Just got my new decal set for my 310-8 from the vinyl guy. Wow!!!! Very nice job Terry, You are awesome to say the least. Thank You!!!!

Well there is one thing about it, Yesterday I told MJ YOU JUST WATCH The Ole Dino is gonna get pissed cause I dint post his Team yet! Well sure enuff he didn't Disappoint. So I made him up one special I was thinking this Is Perfect. It will be blasted Tonight!

Here's a couple I wouldn't mind seeing!

What...no Illinois stuff. WTF, I would think that would be the first things you would come up with...many more Illini fans out there then Michigan.

Several years ago I bought this Squire Applegate Lambert and shortly thereafter sold it. Last year I tried to track it down to no avail. A month or so ago it amazingly popped up on CL in Rhode Island. The funny thing is, a guy I know in Kansas sent me the link. He had no idea what the tractor was - he thought I might be interested. I couldn't hook the trailer up fast enough. Originally they came with 6x12's on the rear but I've since put 23x8.5x12's on it, fixed the seat and a few odds and ends. The Tech H60 is the best running, smoothest H60 I have ever seen. Coincidentally, I got a lead on the red one last week in Wisconsin and just bought that one too. I want to stuff 23x10.5x12's in the red one. The crusty, orange-ish one pictured is not mine, but illustrates the fit of the 10.5's.

This thread is cracking me up.

I'm thinkin a nice mug with a Cigar Store Indian?

I am sorry I stirred up so much discussion on this topic. I reacted a little too strongly. I will try to get a few more photos this afternoon and post them. If I still get an error that they are too large, I will reach out to one of several of you who offered to help.

It will prob be worth every Penney lets see..... Geno is a salesman I got messages to prove it lol

I cleaned the housing and made the lens .... total "$0.00". Total invested in tractor so far is $65.00. I had to buy some bushings and a belt and ignition switch. BUT... I sold an extra part for $14 so invested is now only $51.

Wow, Really nice stuff there. I'm just a few miles to the east. When I have a hole burning in my pocket can I come shopping. Im sure I could burn through most of it at your place!!

Well guys here are some Pics of some of the GOOD STUFF. We aren't taking orders yet, as we have only been doing this for a little over two weeks, and we are still in the experimental stages and are still learning. I am sure over time like anything we will get better and more efficient at it. Once she start's selling we will let you all know. All I can tell you is that she is a SLAVE DRIVER and this week I have been off on vacation hasen't been much of a vacation. Ya see I am the Computer Graphics and cutter guy. I design and Cut what she tells me she wants and she pretty much takes it from there. These long hours are taking a toll on me. Anyways tell us what you think. Thanks Duke & MJ

I wouldn't trust that. Mine showed green on the charger as well... was still shorted out. No matter what it ends up being, you know you're in good hands to get it sorted out with the forum.

so you replace the module, hook it back up together and it still doesn't spark. so now you think, well must be something else, hey? and you go on to looking at other components. at this point, are you calling the module you pulled out good and you now have a spare? what if the module and coil are bad? what if either one are still good? you will never know if you don't test the parts, thats why i go to the trouble of finding the relevant parts of the manuals to help out. if you don't test them how do you know they are good or bad? just because you replace with new, doesn't mean the new parts are good, doesn't happen very often but new parts sometimes don't work for any particular reason. the service manuals are very simple to understand and with basic tools all these parts are able to be tested, good or bad. also its rare, but if the rotor was bad, you didn't replace it, you got everything back together and then the ignition doesn't work, it will all have to come back off again. please do yourself a favor and test the individual components you have, even though you bought a module, keep it on the shelf and use the old one if it tests good. check out this thread on testing, it adds to what i already provided you with above.....

Thanks for the help everyone. Remarkable wasn't a great choice of words although it is to me. I thought it was going to be dust.

Another beauty there Gary.... Craig, you sure that's the best plan? I always thought skinny, hungry dogs make the best guards?

I am going to put the plow on the RJ 58 again and have it ready this year for the early snows! I used this a lot two years ago and not much last winter . I really always like the way this tractor and snowplow performed in moving snow and having fun doing it! The 1967 Lawn Ranger with the STR-324 Snowthrower will be the backup !

Nothing custom or fancy about mine. They get used, generally hauling precious cargo.

Member posts are celebrated in 1K intervals here Geno... we'll see you in a couple weeks, OK?

This thread deals with lack of spark or ignition issues with the P216, P218 and P220 engines used in the late 80s and all 90s tractors originally equipped with the Onan. this would be your 3,4,500 series tractors that typically look like the one below with the Onan twin engine...... Parts of the manuals you will need to diagnose the issue........ testing of these components is also in the demystification guide as well..... typical engine wiring diagram..... Aside from any other issues, the coil and/or module are usually the culprits IF anything needs replacing. I say that IF, because not always are the ignition components faulty. it can be a simple wiring or terminal issue not letting 12 volts to the coil. if any components need replacing here is the part numbers you will need.... Coil Toro Part # 71-6000 Onan Part #166-0761(old part #) superseded by part #541-0522 kit (includes a mounting bracket and 166-0820 coil to mount in the oem location) if you wanted to buy new. If looking for used or nos use the 166-0761 or if you don't care about using the oem looking coil, a 3 ohm Harley coil can be substituted. Module. Toro Part #71-6380, NN10444 (old number) Onan Part #166-0785 (insulator if you need to replace it is 166-0786) rarely do the rotor and condenser need replacing, but if you are after their part numbers here they are...... Rotor Toro Part #71-6010 Onan Part #166-0767 Condenser Toro Part #59-1180 Onan Part #312-0256 ​Places these parts can be purchased (shop around the prices vary big time) http://www.onanparts.com Your Local Toro dealer Ebay (harley coil) check with Boomer a recent new member on the forum as well. I've heard his prices are good. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/user/13637-boomers-influence/ I just threw this together fairly quickly, i would like a few of you guys out there to critique or comment on what i have here. maybe it need some additional input, maybe some stuff needs changing. i put this together in the hopes of helping some new to the world of Onan get one with ignition issues hopefully up and running.

From time to time we all have entered into the discussion of "what do you use to paint with?" . Well, the Harbor Freight HVLP gun always comes up. I have said, any time they go on sale, I pick up a couple. It's easier and cheaper to just throw them away than to spend money on lacquer thinner to clean them, not to mention the time involved. This weekend Harbor Freight is having a "Yard Sale". Here is what I got. Then I presented this: So, bottom line is $9.99 less 25% = $7.49 each. I bought four of them. I had 4 coupons, and I had to go through several different registers to get my discount, but it was worth it.

I went to buy a D250 plow today from a guy on craigslist today and also check out this sweet custom loader he built for his D250!!! Awesome D250

MJ has been needing something she can do at home that doesn't require any exertion something that will keep her mind busy, Possibly where she can make a couple coins along the way. I did a lot of research and during this research I found a great respect for our friend Terry Dennis "VINYL GUY" I now have a good understanding what this man does, and all the work and knowledge it takes to do the fine art that he produces our decals with. I made an Investment in some equipment and set her up a small vinyl shop in the Ole M Den down in the Basement. She will be cutting simplistic Decals and we will be doing a lot of glass carving and etching along with sublimation of T Shirts and Coffee Mugs. don't know where this will lead but she is a very creative individual. Anyway here is some pictures of her new shop. You guys that know me know if I do something I'm gonna try and do it right and set her up within my budget and best of my ability, After all she has put up with my hair brained Ideas for 32 years so its the least I can do! Anyways I wish her luck and hope she does well at it. P.S there will be a lot more pictures coming home from my office at work! Thanks ~Duke

The 8HP is not as good as the big blocks. I have never owned a good one, they all needed rebuilt badly. The first rod damaged the cam but did not break it. The rest is history as the crank has something wrong. It will make a good parts engine, but at this point I would bet the crank is shot.

Doc's right about the cooling part......and full throttle is better for your splash lubed motor. Mike............

Well, I got a little more done. Only about another 99 hours of restore to go! I got the air filter and intake ready thanks to "HORSE JUNKIE". And I test fit the headlights. I made the lens. Here's the all important pics!

This is excellent and about time...this needs to be pinned..

I've been out mowing for cryin out loud. Don't make me ignore you.

What's the hold up Geno... aren't you there yet?

I've made a bit more progress. Llife got in the way, so it's been slow! Tinwork primed and painted.. A pile of non-red parts The rebuild begins! The engine's pretty much back together although I'm waiting on some gasket paper and new valve stem oil seals before I crank it over to get an idea of how the compression's looking.. The wiring has been stripped and any iffy connectors replaced. Predictably perhaps, the nine-pin multiconnector on the engine loom had a corroded pin so I'm going to replace it rather than risk it, seeing as how some of them are pretty high-load. I was planning on using a 9 pin 3.5mm terminal mate-n-lok http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/683/category/7 which I think should cope with the currents, but the demystification guide and the wiring diagrams seem to indicate the 25A and 30A fuses are wired via it. The OEM multiconnector doesn't seem any heftier than the one I'm looking at though, so I'm at a loss. Any thoughts? This might be one for the electrical section I guess.. More photos to come as I get George back together! My workshop time is being monitored however so I'm balancing it with being a devoted husband

We wouldn't lie to you guys, it is worth every penny!

Might consider this Wheelho tramp stamp Geno?

When it comes to painting, there are lots of opinions on what's best, and "how-to's", but nothing beats a post with pictures. There are some members on here who paint for a living, while others work in body shops and are surrounded by painting professionals. Still others are not painters or body men by trade, but still do a fantastic job. I am amazed at some of the work that I have seen on this forum. But the thing that helped me the most is the guy that puts his money where his mouth is. In other words, if you are going to tell someone how to paint, back it up with actual pictures of your tractors that you have painted. That way, the person that is looking for advice can see that what you are telling them actually works. It's easy to go out on the internet and "cut and paste" someone elses advice, but that's not the same as actual experience. Some examples of what I am talking about follow: Kelly - works for a body shop, has posted much advice and pictures. Here is one example Suburban 550 - Ray has worked for a body shop and has personally given me painting advice. Here's one of his. buckrancher - Brian isn't a body shop guy, but has always been free with advice, and does great documentation with pictures. Here is one of his. There are many more members who's advice and pictures could take up pages and pages, but I can't list them all. These are just a few who's advice I value because they back up what they say with proof.

Rich, that is definitely a good method of overcoming the hydro levers. only one thing i would add and it concerns the bolts used to attach whether your method or mine is used and that is to test fit the warning light panel as you are doing this mod. that panel fits in tight at that bottom return that we are using to bolt in the bearing and bolt head clearance could be an issue depending on what bolt heads you use.

Acrylic urethane will give you a higher gloss than acrylic enamel. It is also more expensive. But if you are going for the show queen look without clear coating, that's the way to go. Acrylic enamel gives you a finish closer to what the original paint looked like, shiney but not mirror-like. If you are painting outside, you will never acquire the mirror finish without sanding to get the dust nibs out, then polishing to bring back the shine. My first four paint jobs were done as follows The frame, engine, and most structual parts were painted outdoors. The show parts like hood, fenders, belt covers, etc. were painted in a friends paint booth under controlled conditions. Three medium coats and the finish was as you see it. The last one that I did, the 857, was painted with acrylic enamel. All of it was done outdoors due to the fact that my paint shop buddy went out of town just as I was ready to paint the hood and stuff. So I painted all the show surfaces outdoors with three medium coats. Then I sanded the dust and bugs out with 1000, then 1500, and finally 2000 grit wet sandpaper. Then I used Maguires polishing compound to bring up the gloss. As far as recoat time, there should be a data sheet available for each type of paint. The recoat times are based on weather conditions. Typically, your can lay down a coat, then another in about 5 to 10 minutes. I allow about 15 minutes between 2nd and 3rd coat. I wait at least 16 hours before sanding and polishing.

Dino is another nickname for Stevasaurus. He has made several transmission rebuild videos where he narrates or "discusses" the process. He also likes to watch paint dry.

Theroundhousemr _ I bet you could get about three Lawn Rangers and or a couple and an RJ if you did trade in your 520 H ! Rob: If you want videos ( Some in HD too) I have about 50 on YouTube of some of these things moving snow etc. https://www.youtube.com/user/LaneRanger

We sound like Red Square salesmen.

Tell that to Stig with his new wheel horse project lol . It just never crossed my mind of using it. I was not trying to say you or anyone was wrong for doing so. I wasnt thinking about its great wear characteristics also. I tend to over think/do things in life and in my mind lol and I miss things like that. And its free too! Lane . There is something so cool about your little horses doing snow removal. I was really liking your lawn ranger last year. Makes me want to trade my 520h in on one. Not being sarcastic....... well maybe a little but still. Thats really cool way to clean up the snow. MIght have to find me a little horse now..... There has been a Suburban Blower floating around my area online for awhile now......

That is awesome, especially the sickle. Why doesn't anything like that fall into my lap?

NICE inventory! Where do we place our orders?

Hoss - HDPE (High Density Polyethylene plastic), or your basic material that is used to fabricate cutting boards.... Someone else had showed, in a thread, how to make your skids last longer.... Use your skids as a template on some HDPE, cut out the HDPE, and bolt onto the bottom of your skids. Makes them last twice as long as normal, maybe even longer. I used an old cutting board, and got 6 templates, out of the board. 3 for the right skid and 3 for the left skid. I have (2) templetes left for each skid to start my season out..... One of the best ideas I have seen to help the longevity of your skids...... Rob

Pocket - I think that is the first Gravely tractor we have seen fitted for snow duty.

Looks like you are off to a good start MJ. I am already working on a design for a couple coffee mugs so warm up the mug press. Looking forward to seeing your creations. This looks like ta good place to share the story of the C-101 that changed everything. 14 years ago in my old sign shop a customer brought in a Wheel Horse hood and sat it up on the counter. He said it was his Dad’s old garden tractor and he was restoring it for him for a Birthday gift. I had no real knowledge of them other than the neighbors little round hood I remembered from my childhood. So I began recreating the hood decals for him out of traditional computer cut vinyl (had not gotten in to the large format printing yet) My customer was happy with the results and I never gave it another thought. Fast forward 6 years and having sold our sign business we purchased all new equipment and turned our garage into a home sign shop. Soon after we opened a feebay store online. Then something amazing happened. We were selling novelty parking signs, banners and graphics on-line and I happened across the c-101 wheel horse file so I made a set and listed them wondering if maybe someone out there could use them. Of course they sold within 10 minutes and within the next week I had at least a hundred questions about other models. Of course I didn't know a C-101 from a pedal tractor. I had the skills but needed educated about Wheel horse. The next miracle was a phone call from a young man in PA. We've had several enjoyable phone conversations over the years about everything Wheel horse. I refer to him as the walking Wheel Horse encyclopedia. But we all know him as TT. He told me about red square so I signed up on the forum (member # 75 or so) and the rest as they say is history. TT and several other forum members are why I have been able to recreate such a large catalog of graphics over the last eight years. I’m no genius, far from it. Heck, 17 years ago I couldn't even spell computer graphics. But I was determined and continued to improve my skills over the years. A huge thank you to TT for all the help with so many models. To KJ4KICKS for sharing his vast knowledge. Anytime I had a question he would quickly respond with an accurate answer or he would refer me to the person who would have the correct info. To Marvairplanes for helping me perfect the PAIN IN THE A@@ front hood decal template for the 300 400 and 500 series tractors, brrly1 for driving across three states to bring me a tiller decal to scan. That's when I realized most of you are truly Horse-a-Holics. To My Illinois buddies also. Martin whose dedication to detail and never ending research has helped me improve many items. To Sarge who sent me his charger dash so I could develop an acceptable chrome dash decal. Stevasaurus for always finding the best places to dine at the Big Show. And thank you to the countless other members that have shared knowledge with me on this journey. Our first Big show appearance was in 2013 and it was awesome to see all the tractors there with fresh paint and decals. It is truly a blessing to be able to provide that finishing touch to so many beautiful restorations. As I have heard so many times, without decals they would just be red tractors. and that my friends is how the C-101 EIGHT SPEED and RedSquare changed my life. “Knowledge should be shared†that is exactly what RedSquare is and has always been about. So in the true spirit of RS and the Wheel horse family I am happy to share my knowledge as so many of you have shared with me. Good luck MJ and enjoy. Go Hawkeyes!!! Sorry Duke

Cool nights and leaves turning. Started me thinking. I wanted the weights out of the shed and Elvis needed something to do, so I made a place in the garage to store them and moved them while the gettin's good!

GENO...don't stop posting...you are doing fine and I for one have been enjoying your contribution. Just so you know...there is an ignore function here on Red Square...I use it on a couple of guys and it works great.

Also, I use PPG Shop-Line single-stage acrylic enamel or urethane as my top coat. No clear coat needed. The primer that I use is Kustom Shop DTM epoxy. http://www.tcpglobal.com/KUS-KEP505-QT_2.html?sc=115&category=2396227#.VACGjNKwI3g

I use the same tip on my HF HVLP gun for primer as well as the red enamel.

Thanks Mark, thanks Don I didn't have time to post last night but after cleaning up the top of the bores a bit, I found I was getting more and more rotation with the engine sitting on the flywheel and swinging the block left and right. After about a minute, the pistons had full travel: http://youtu.be/-Aj7U0lwtww Anyway, they popped out with no problem and look to be great; there's no scoring, no witness marks on the bearings. Even the rings seem good. With the pistons removed, the crank and cam can be spun with no effort and continue to spin freely http://youtu.be/_YqIsiO9WSE I'll hone the bores and refit everything along with a better set of valves and see what a leakdown test shows. The rest of the tractor is now in it's component parts and they're getting sanded. More pics to follow!