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Nothing custom or fancy about mine. They get used, generally hauling precious cargo.

Hey Folks, Picked up this little guy this weekend. Was not looking for one it just jumped in my lap. Cleaned it up a little bit. It sat under a porch for a long time. Woman said it was her husbands and he ran it dry before it was stored. Gas tank is clean, could not get her to fire but did not have that much time to spend on it. Will have to check the points as it is getting fuel, but no spark as of yet. Will start looking for a manual and hopefully have this running soon. let me know what you think and what is it missing? Engine seems correct, its an H55D if i remember correctly.

I am going to put the plow on the RJ 58 again and have it ready this year for the early snows! I used this a lot two years ago and not much last winter . I really always like the way this tractor and snowplow performed in moving snow and having fun doing it! The 1967 Lawn Ranger with the STR-324 Snowthrower will be the backup !

Well for now it is done. I strip this to the bare frame cleaned every inch piece buy piece and when I got to the body I used a buffer till the shine u see. The paint was good shape for 46 years old. I put a plug in on battery that is why the extra wires this make it easy for charging as the three that I have = 857 1057 1257 don`t charge it is just easy to plug in an 1.5v Maintainer in. But on this one the cigarette lighter still works. So I hope u enjoy the picks. I wanted to do a video a but photo bucket changed there format the picture is to large for this site. Take care Gary B..... OOHH #16 is self explanatory big and black.so don't get any ideas lol.

Mines somewhere in the middle there lol

This thread deals with lack of spark or ignition issues with the P216, P218 and P220 engines used in the late 80s and all 90s tractors originally equipped with the Onan. this would be your 3,4,500 series tractors that typically look like the one below with the Onan twin engine...... Parts of the manuals you will need to diagnose the issue........ testing of these components is also in the demystification guide as well..... typical engine wiring diagram..... Aside from any other issues, the coil and/or module are usually the culprits IF anything needs replacing. I say that IF, because not always are the ignition components faulty. it can be a simple wiring or terminal issue not letting 12 volts to the coil. if any components need replacing here is the part numbers you will need.... Coil Toro Part # 71-6000 Onan Part #166-0761(old part #) superseded by part #541-0522 kit (includes a mounting bracket and 166-0820 coil to mount in the oem location) if you wanted to buy new. If looking for used or nos use the 166-0761 or if you don't care about using the oem looking coil, a 3 ohm Harley coil can be substituted. Module. Toro Part #71-6380, NN10444 (old number) Onan Part #166-0785 (insulator if you need to replace it is 166-0786) rarely do the rotor and condenser need replacing, but if you are after their part numbers here they are...... Rotor Toro Part #71-6010 Onan Part #166-0767 Condenser Toro Part #59-1180 Onan Part #312-0256 ​Places these parts can be purchased (shop around the prices vary big time) http://www.onanparts.com Your Local Toro dealer Ebay (harley coil) check with Boomer a recent new member on the forum as well. I've heard his prices are good. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/user/13637-boomers-influence/ I just threw this together fairly quickly, i would like a few of you guys out there to critique or comment on what i have here. maybe it need some additional input, maybe some stuff needs changing. i put this together in the hopes of helping some new to the world of Onan get one with ignition issues hopefully up and running.

This is my first, and probably, only restoration. I couldn't have done it without the help of you good folks, and I thank you for all the help and advice. Thanks especially to Steve, Gene and Zane, and there are many others whose names escape my memory right now. This is my first attempt at posting pictures also, so I hope they are there. Thanks

I have been slow to get this spiked tooth harrow painted this summer! Finally getting the last few spikes, etc painted and ready to complete the job. This came with my 1958 RJ I bought in Oklahoma with a LTD - 24 dump cart, garden plow, cultivator and front cutter bar (which I have since sold as I had another one restored already to use).

Yesterday my son and I put the Charger 12 to work out in the back woods. First we used it to pull 3 oak logs out of the woods to where we could use the chain saw to cut them up. The log chain hooked to the hitch did the trick with those logs. Next we had to take care of a second oak tree that had fallen down last year. There was a nasty stump maybe 300++ pounds to remove, not too bad a job because the tree fell over and most of the stump came out of the ground. We wrapped the log chain around it and with a lot of coaxing and prying with the shovel, it came out of the hole. But with a bigger Horse that job would have been easier. The Horse dragged it down hill to the burn pile, for it's final resting place. G.

My wife has been busy making some tee shirts for the family. We are going to wear these when we drive in the parade in a couple of weeks. We will have 9 drivers and a couple of kids all decked out in Wheel Horse attire.

Dino is another nickname for Stevasaurus. He has made several transmission rebuild videos where he narrates or "discusses" the process. He also likes to watch paint dry.

Look at Farmers Almanac...... That's all I have to say bout that! < Forest Gump!

I never thought of puttin some nice chrome highway pegs on a Horse!

I'm getting closer guys...My next question is on paint. The local dealer (who I trust implicitly) told me that IH-50 is as close to Wheel Horse red as you can get. How do I get this mixed and also the numbers on the paint section here what so the y mean...EG -----DMR 478 149.4 ---- DMR 490 7.0 ---- DMR 451 286.6 ---- DMR 474 533.4 ---- DMR 475 507.8 ---- DXR 495 40.0 ---- DMR 499 536.4 Im lost again...but Im learning so much thanks to Geno and Bob Maynard

Check the blue wire at the solenoid for 12 volts when you turn the key to start. I like to use a test light so I can see how bright the light is. This gives me an idea as to how much amperage I have there. If there is no voltage or the light is dim, you probably have a corroded 30 amp fuse in the fuse block or in the case of no voltage, it has blown. If you have this fuse block it is below the battery box and has three fuses in it. It is notorious for becoming dirty and causing problems.

Does a leaf cart count?

Ok, before anyone credits me, this cart is not mine....... I am trying to figure out how to sell this to the misses, especially after I dropped $325.00 on the Bolens chipper shredder.... < However, she now thinks that was money WELL spent... Now I just have to figure out a plan for this.... I many have put the CART before the HORSE, on this one!

I stopped using photobucket when they changed their format , I couldn't get on with it ,like others have said ,I find it far easier to upload straight from my computer library.

Well, this year I will be prepared. If its light snow, I will be using the C-101 and plow. Medium/Heavy snow I will be using my Gravely 20G with plow (I know, I know...at least its red). For the heavy stuff, its back to the Wheelhorse corral for the 520-H and single stage blower. Now to get the blower off of the C-101 and onto the 520-H...then get the plow on the Gravely...then to get the blade on the C-101. See! Easy as pie! I'm also going to try and find time to mod the single stage with rubber flap on impeller and put a rubber squeegee on the two plows and maybe even see about doing a mod to the scraper edge on the blower. We will see how that goes if there is time.

I will post some Pics later.

I have three Wheel Horse Dump Carts My first one I paid $80 for and coated it with POR-15 (two coats of clear in the bottom) and then painted with Valspar IH red. One of the wheels had a bad rust spot and I had a welder repair it correctly. The second one I bought in Evansville , Indiana and hauled home in the trunk of a Toyota Camry ( they fit fine upside down with the trunk lid tied down). I repainted it with Valspar IH Red and changed both tires -the wheels were fine. Before Painting: After Painting: My favorite cart -an old LT-24 dump cart from the mid-1950's - I am leaving this as original as possible!

Innovations have been coming fast and furious here at Wheel Horse Plaza! I hope to be able to bring Ezra to a plow day someday. It needed to have the lift cable put in it. The factory set up has been discontinued so lets use what we can get our hands on. I had installed a cable I made up with Lowes components but I wanted something better. A cable for a 520 is still avail. so that's what I went with. Note: I did this exact same change on my C-160 Auto. but I want a gear tranny tractor for plowing. Neither one of these tractors have the provision for a rock shaft either. The Parts: Toro # 108145 short clevis and a Toro 108144 cable. These are pricey. Cost me $63 bucks but like I said I wanted something better and sometimes you just have to pay. Also included is a $3.00 piece of brake line for the conduit and a 5/16" NC thread yoke end from McMaster -Carr. I have 4 tractor suppliers near me and 3 of them don't know what a yoke end is and the other one had a drawer for it but it hasn't been refilled for 2 years I used a slot hitch but I think a clevis hitch will work the same. I was using an 8' WH plow but now with the beefier cable I'm more confident to use my 10" Brinly The cable is too short to work so I welded on a 5/16 bolt for an extension and cut the head off new cable won't fit in the existing conduit so the 3/8 brake line is needed. the openings in it need to be deburred before using Seat and trim were removed. I wedged the rear panel up after unbolting from the trans. slid out the old conduit and slid in the new. After sliding the cable in and attaching to the slot hitch I measured the extension bolt and cut it to length needed. Yoke installed in the up position Now in the down position. Rear view. Plow in up position. Plow in down position

lol Sounds about right. I wish I could have bought stocks in onan parts years ago. Anyway, I hope this pertains to the post because If i ran into some engines with the insulator missing, I am sure others have/will too. And be scratching there heads like I am . I did some google searching on the question at hand and came across some people saying" its important you install the insulator! ask me how I know" Well yes , How do you know?? lol . No one every says why.

I know that having a Tecumseh is frowned upon around here...but my L107 starts quicker and is ready to work right away even in winter better than any of my Kohlers. b The Tecumseh on my Troybilt tiller gets used 2 times per year and starts on the 2nd or third pull...

Wow ! Martin that would be great. I'll be happy to wait for your reply. Thank You WH nut you and Martin are on the same page. Thank You km3h I'll give that a try also. Special thanks to all of you. REDSQUARE members are a special group of people. I'm happy to be a member also.

Of course...you know it...anytime buddy.

You just gave me an idea Ed. When I saw the grey I thought of the epoxy on my shop floor, it's indestructible. Also, don't even think of walking on a wet spot or you'll find yourself on the floor.

Nick I guess this was well taken care of all ways in the garage. So I guess that is what makes the difference. But it does have scratches on it. Take care Gary B....

OK Craig I just signed up I always wounded what that was for. If I have any questions I can ask u ????

I could but I'm Wheel Horse to the bone. I should have it tattooed on my butt.

Something doesn't look right with the motor. Looks more like a B&S shroud than a Tecumseh H-60 Looks decent other wise...They are handy little tractors my 1967 ranger is my favorite horse

Yep PH-18 is the Manual Number (see in manuals section) and they were made by Empire Plow Company in Cleveland, Ohio. Empire Plow made them for Bolens, John Deere and Wheel Horse (and I am sure others too).

I think it is safer to have the floor boards on. Keeps you feet where they can easily reach the foot pedals.

I'm not familiar with the GT Workhorses (their safety switches) , but could it be something as silly as the PTO level is engaged? I did that once, shut it down with the level engaged and could not start it a week or two later. Took me two days of trouble shooting before I noticed the lever forward.

When I mowed last week (still using the 518xi), the grass was a bit thicker due to all the rain we had previously. It really left a lot of chaff on the ground. The tractor may have gone a bit higher on the gauge than normal. Yesterday here was what I would term atrocious with the heat and humidity. Took the lazy man stance of staying in the A/C! I assume: full throttle, oil to the top of normal, correct gap on spark plugs, and sharp blades to lessen the load. If worse comes to worse, there is a pocket under the shroud that is baffled on the left side from driver's seat that can only be cleaned by pulling the engine once. Kohler sells access panels that can be installed while the engine is out. There is a set on eBay right now : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Kohler-Access-Panel-Kit-25-755-20-S-KB99-/151238438390 But I remember that yours doesn't have that many hours. I believe what you had were a combination of things to be a fluke (guaranteed for as long as it takes to read this ) - but be mindful and keep an eye on it.

Sure the battery is just not dead?

As always Gary, real nice job!

Great! Just don't wait on him to call, keep up with him. I've been told that too only to find out guy #1 didn't show up but guy #2 called right after. I hate it when that happens!

nice job

Don, With the ease of uploading pictures right here on RedSquare, I have to ask, why use Photobucket?

16 x 6.50-8 on early rims and 4.00-8 deestone d401 on early rims......

a 2009 post of this one, but no replies for some reason... and it seems locked? either way, it's awesome!

AMC's got it right. Best money you ever spent, makes posting easy, and keeps this place running so we can all use it! Go for it T!

I have photo bucket but I don't know about changing anything. I opened a you tube acct just for putting video's here.

a 1055 is not a 1054 in size - the 1055 was a short fram tractor. = I have a 1054 and it is my favorite tractor.

Lots of room on the GT14. I really like the way I sit on mine. Its a different animal then the C series tractors. It was wheel horses step into bigger estate tractors. Heavy son of a gun. Close to 1000 pounds with out me on it. Then the D series came along to fill that void. Once again most all attachments are different. Only made for about 3 years also. It seems there Is a trend that formed based on wheel horse "bigger" garden tractors. Short production runs upon many models over the years. I guess bigger is not always better...... If you want something " bigger " ( notice the quotes ). Go for a twin cylinder wheel horse or the big 16hp one lunger , whether it be Kohler or Onan. Same ole long frame but bigger grunt under the hood, heavier axles in the rear , different seating arrangement. The 520's newer then 91 would be found with swept forward front axle and heavier 1 inch spindles. See..... "bigger" but not really. Then again , I have a friend that bought a C81 new, way back when. Mows 20 yards and a ball field with a 48 inch deck for 18 years. He will put that same tractor up against any big twin and out pull you any time. The big twins are wasted HP in his opinion. The gearing on the wheel horse transmission really go along way as far as torq. Only thing you really need the big power for is the big 60 inch deck and the two stage blower. Sorry for the long post but I guess you can gather. The bigger odd ball series wheel horses where never a big hit due to the market, demand , or whatever. So less parts and a little harder to find attachments for. If you want to pony up the money and go for something like that. By all means post pictures when you pick one up. Plenty of us do. Just keep in mind down time when you need parts a so on... or even better , have a back up for you back up as they say. As far as the long frame tractors, they where pretty much the same through out the years. Just different tin , motor and transmissions. This is one of my favorite things about wheel horse. I can take an attachment from the late 70's and it will still fit my 1989 520. Very smart business in my opinion. Rant over

I got to have my dinner and ice cream!

I'm 6'2" and my 1054 is my most comfortable Wheelhorse.

There are two coils on a Vanguard sound like one bad coil. It could also be a bare kill wire shorting it out.