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The horse I put together by mixing parts from a 518h and 520hc has become a favorite of mine sense completion. now thanks to my sweetheart it has custom decails She contacted vinylguy and he did an excellent job on them!!!! great surprise, very nice quality, thanks to you both

Here's what the question is about by the way..... Ad is asking $500 If I read the ad right, I'd say that's priced pretty well. An RJ-58, with engine has a SPR-42 snow blade and a PP-8 plow with it, and there's two of something... ad says "one for parts and one complete". Seems like a good buy to me. I'd imagine there's already someone on the way to look at it/buy it.

GENO...don't stop posting...you are doing fine and I for one have been enjoying your contribution. Just so you know...there is an ignore function here on Red Square...I use it on a couple of guys and it works great.

being from kentucky gives you the right to be chatty, i know when i'm drinking bourbon i can't shut up!

GENO, when I first got on Red Square, I had some knowledge of engines (working in a "service station") back in the 60's. My Dad had these tractors and they had been sitting for about 20 years. When he passed, I decided to try to get them running again. I found Red Square and the good people on here, they helped me with whatever I needed...manuals, advice. I started going to shows to meet these guys, get parts and see what the love was all about. I have been going to the shows now for about 5 years all over the Midwest and the north east and have met very many of the members that are active on this site. What a ride!! One day I had to rebuild the trans in my 702...1533 bearing was shot. I found a place in transmissions where I started rebuilding them with videos...no one had done that before...and I was suddenly able to help and give back. I really feel like I am part of this site now. I still ask questions (I do not know everything), but there is no feeling like walking someone through rebuilding a transmission and saving a horse with someone who normally would have not even thought of opening one. I have truly been blessed here and I know it. Never feel like not posting in a thread if you have something to offer. It could be a question, that makes everyone think...it could be a thought that has not been presented...it could be the answer that the original guy was looking for...and you could get your "hooby dooby" stepped on also. Mine is pretty flat now. The nice thing about this site is, we all learn together and most are tolerant and willing to share what they have learned. Don't worry about your post count...it really does not mean much. Go to a couple of shows and meet some of the members...listen to what they have to say...that is what is important...the rest will come naturally. Welcome Aboard Mate.

Nah Geno you're fine. It's refreshing to see some new enthusiasm around here. The old enthusiasm was getting kinda boring.

I second what Jim said. Wait till winter rolls around and the forum activity slows to a crawl . Then we'll really need more of that enthusiasm!

This is a forum. Taking is what it's all about. Keep 'em coming.

Happy Birthday Megan. 17 years old today. While ill the entire time, at least you got to make it to the Wheel Horse Show again this year. Unfortunately the WHCC 2015 show won't happen for this clan, this 17 year old will be celebrating her High School Graduation that same weekend. Megan!

How about thoughts on what's inside. Pulled the head off last weekend. Pictured is what I found. Worth saving? or too badly damaged As I mentioned in previous post, flywheel turns freely, piston /valves go up and down - that doesn't mean much but it's something. What are the determining factors in deciding whether to fish or cut bait? I have no experience rebuilding an engine but I'm game if nothing else More pics required of bottom of engine, piston, crank? Also drained the oil - was pleasantly surprised to find at least 1/2 quart.

You know? I'm thinkin' what the Squonk says is making scents here... I thought it was weird that the back of the woodruff key(closest to the trans)was curling up, out of it's channel... as the hub was backing off it. Upon closer inspection, I can see a ball of grit in there that was pushing it up against the hub. I think if you look inside of the hub...the pict tells the whole story here. Also, interesting how wet the axle is vs. the dry appearance of the hub bore.

I do not have an answer, but i have several times been surprised how even after it starst to move it fights all the way off. Most gears/bearing etc. once they pop free come off easily....not so hubs.

heres the only pic i have and it was after the battle was won....... i did mine on the floor of the garage, trans apart from the frame as well, but it wasn't sitting on the tire though. now that would have been a challenge in itself.....

So that's why I haven't heard from you!!!!!

More seat time!

Welcome to the Site Geno I've been off a couple months so you haven't bothered me.. Oh and Chuck, I thought I would mention you misspelled develop.

Is a gorgeous ... can't wait to see it's new bling installed.

My decks all leave a strip in the turns. I just do a couple end run passes to clean it up when I'm finished.

I've been here less than 2 months and this is post #500. Do I talk too much? Should I take a vacation and give you guys a break?

Anyone else had this problem? The hydro drive belt tension rod seems to still be available but not the top plate, so I ran down the street and Scot made me some new parts. He's the bomb. The top plate is now 4 times as thick and stainless. Here are some pics of before and after, new parts are still in the rough here. He also now has the unavailable top plate in his CNC plasma cutter software so he can make one for anyone who needs one out of whatever material + thickness you want. He has the rod in there too and the Wheel Horse script of course in that style you see. Terry (Vinylguy) had a hand in helping with the correct writing style for the Wheel Horse lettering part, he's the best too.

I have always wanted a John Deere 110 round fender. Some of you know that earlier this year, in a matter of weeks I bought two 1965, 110 round fenders. After looking both tractors over and driving them for a bit I decided that I really didn't care for the mechanicals of the John Deere. I also didn't like how the engine was placed inside the engine compartment and frame. I do however like their color combination, variable speed and styling. In the past month I've been approached by four different people to purchase their Wheelhorse tractor's. I purchased two of them but I decided I didn't need anymore in my heard because I already had eight or nine Wheel Horse plus the two John Deere. Even with a new barn I still only have so much time, space and money. Well I finally decided that I'm a Wheelhorse guy through and through (although I'm still looking for a nice Farmall Cub) and sold both John Deere tractors yesterday. Now I have the space and the money to pick up the rest of those tractors that were offered to me. So today I applied to get my Wheel a Horse Man Card back. A idea how long that will take? :-)

Craig- but all and all that two hub method with bolts and nuts tightened works! PB Blaster helps if you turn axle (or can) and take out set screw/bolt on hub you are trying to remove and add a little over an hour or more. Those axles and hubs don't get removed very many times in their life. It is like trying to take your wedding ring off! It takes a while!

if what lane said doesn't work id pull the head,then look at valves and decarbon,clean head,got nothing to loose

Priceless.....

I agree with Geno we all price stuff a little higher then we are willing to take so offer him a little less !

Looking good Bert! Happy Birthday too

Is there a preference for front tires also?

Decals look great and you got a real woman there!

Well managed a few hours today and am pretty pleased Pulleys came straight off Shaft is 1" and keyway is identical too, so a straight swap Just four new holes and a Briggs 8 hp drops straight in, even the old tecumseh exhaust fits. Despite the engines being different sizes and makes. Just a small mod to the heat shield to stop it fouling the hood. Started first time And back in action...

Wow! Nice Horse and a fantastic wife. You are a lucky guy!.

Geno, we should also caution you about another site phenomenon that occasionally appears around here. It's the Redsquare "Trunk Monkey". You know the type. You offer someone some good sound advice and along comes the "Trunk Monkey" who thinks he knows everything and is smarter than everyone else and starts bashing the crap out of your opinion. Usually it's some "flash in the pan" who is actually pretty smart but gets in over their head by making a bunch promises they can't keep and leaves a lot of unfinished business hanging out there in limbo. You know, the guys that take in everything they can read and then consider themselves to be some self taught Guru on everything from soup to nuts. So now you deliberately go search a thread to find an answer to a problem that's troubling you and, you guessed it, nothing has been done for the last two years to complete the thread. "LIMBO" There may be an answer to the avoiding the "Trunk Monkey" , that being the installation of the "Trunk Monkey Recall Button" pictured below.. which is explained here.. Please continue sharing your information with us though. We all truly are enjoying your posts and I in particular look forward to hearing much more from you. I don't even care what color your beard is. Shucks, I hope this post isn't trivial..

Thank you Steve. Sometimes I wonder if I'm overstepping my bounds. I intentionally try to stay out of some threads so I don't seem overbearing. I know a lot of stuff and being new I don't want to seem like a know it all. I was diagnosed with OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) over 20 years ago and I have to know all I can and do everything perfect. I just posted in a thread about what I use for filters on the Hydros. I use a motor oil filter. A reply was mentioned that what I use is not a hydraulic filter. Of course it's not, there's no hydraulic fluid in the hydro, it takes 10W 30 motor oil and when choosing filters you have to deal with viscosity and flow. I learned this many many years ago and didn't take anyone elses word for it, I called Amsoil (I'm a dealer) Wix, Champion Labs in IN, and several other actual manufacturers to find out what to use. It's the way I do everything and can't help it. It's a blessing and a curse sometimes.

OK. The results are in. I had a delay due to things coming up but the total tank time was about 8 hours. Before I get a bunch of “I told you so’s†let me say again, I never expected it to work but I just had to see what would happen. I’ve been using electrolysis for more years than I care to admit and do have a good understanding of the process as well as, let’s just say, a wee bit of experience in the electrical industry. When I saw FarmerJim’s post it hit me that I had never tried a chunk of aluminum. Why? Cuz it won’t work. But just what would happen? I had the Tecky head that was going to end up in the trash anyways so I gave it a shot. I had brushed the carbon prior to tanking to remove the loose stuff. After removing it from the tank this morning I just washed in dish soap and lightly brushed it again. More carbon came off but that could have just been from the soaking. The remaining carbon is still attached pretty good. It doesn’t look like it harmed the head and there was no buildup on the anodes. You can see that it’s discolored some and it’s not like the usual black crud that gets washed off. I would say the bottom line is what most expected. There are much better ways to clean a head up. As far as the other issue that comes up so often, it’s not supposed to remove paint either. But it does, even on clean metal. Yes, I’m sure the quality of the paint plays a part but I’ve never failed to get at least 90% of it off. What remains seems to come off much easier. My usual procedure is to start the process on the part to be cleaned. About two hours later I remove the part and clean the loose but still clinging paint off so it doesn’t gunk up the solution so much. Then I cook it some more until I get the result I want. It’s quite possible that I’ve never tried it on a paint good enough but maybe that will be another experiment. So, FarmerJim, since you want to save your head I wouldn’t try it. I know that from firsthand experience now. I don’t think it hurt it but…………..??? If anybody else asks a question about cleaning aluminum in an e-tank you can say emphatically “NO, it won’t work cuz I once read in a forum about this idiot that tried it.â€

Try disconnecting the "M" wire at the switch. Make sure the wire isn't contacting anything and see if you have spark now. If so, you may have a switch problem.

It's not gonna slow to a crawl while I'm around. Winter is time to restore, do the snow thing, get ready for spring and customize the Horses! Horsing never stops! And if it does it's time to go get another one to work on!

And if you have the meter out and are measuring your coil, give the secondary winding a quick check also.

Sounds like the main concern you have is a hot coil not wiring issues. There are three main types of coils that find their way into the points based tractors, 1. THE CORRECT COIL = this coil has a"internal resistor" within the coil body that restricts the amount of current that flows thru the points and coil combo. The internal primary resistance of this type coil can be measured with an multimeter at about 3 - 4 ohms. If 12 volts powers a 4 ohm resistance, 3 amps flows and that equates to about 36 watts of power - warm but not hot. 2. INCORRECT COIL - REQUIRES EXTERNAL RESISTOR - this look alike is visually identical to the correct coil but its internal wiriing can overheat if an "external resistor" is not used in series with the coil. The primary resistance of this coil will be in the 1 - 2 ohm range. The external resistor accounts for another 2 ohms. Properly configured, this combo is the equivalent of the 4 ohm internal resistor coil discussed above. If this coil is used alone, the electrical system will see the lower resistance and double the current flowing thru the coil and points. The result is over-heating the coil and premature erroding away the point's contacts. 12 volts powering a 1.5 ohm circuit equals 8 amps of current flowing and generating nearly 100 watts of heat and energy. We are now seeing the coil get hot. 3. ELECTRONIC IGNITION COILS - these are the high energy bad boys of the ignition world and demand gigantic gulps of current to operate as intended. They will fry points within minutes. The primary resistance of this style coil is usually well under 1 ohm and current draw can be near 20 amps. These coils are fine if you drive them with electronic ignition modules. They will fry GT wiring very quicky. 20 amps of current flowing thru this circuit generates over 200 watts of power. Wires melt, points vaporize. Measure your prmary ignition coil resistance. Anything less than 3 ohms and you have either a shorted coil or an incorrect coil on the tractor. A correct coil should be labeled "12 volts" . If you see "external resistor required" on the coil or the coil looks like it came out of a spaceship, you have the wrong coil.

If you are using NAPA.....yes on the 1410.....as Craig said.... Geno...never heard of using that filter on this forum and I have read a lot on hydros....looks like a regular oil filter to me instead of a hydraulic filter.....

Geno, one of the great features in the software this site uses is the "IGNORE" feature. If you consistently find posted content of certain members to be trivial, vapid or downright incorrect or misleading, you can digitally ignore their posts. It's like that commercial with the yahoo that advertises Prilosec "why wait for the heartburn, treat it before it starts." Speaking for myself only, I see too many "old enthusiam" members have already stopped posting or contributing due to the ocean of "non-content" posts they now expect to see whenever they visit. Hopefully your "new enthusiam" and beneficial content will eventually make you a greybeard on this site whose advice is sought after and not ignored. Before you hit POST, ask yourself if anyone in the future will ever purposefully try to search out your post to help them solve a problem they currently have. Many new members here will need help to further develope their appreciation of the hobby. Not everyone comes to the game just to watch and listen to the cheerleaders. . . Edit - correcting the speeling - always check your speeling.

Thanks for the info , I'll be careful !

Just another Update... The C-105 I brought home last night had a slight electrical issue.. Got that knocked out a she runs like a !!

Hey Digger...the first pic looks to be either a green or red chili pepper. The second pic does resemble the scotch bonnet, also known as a "scotty bon", which is a cousin to the habanero, so they will be hot! They are a Caribbean pepper...hope this helps! :-P

Should be available anywhere good hardware is sold.

The HD spindle kit that was offered had the Spindles in it and rims. The kit was to be used on a standard front axel. The spindles are 3/4. They are basicaly like the standard spindle except they have a brace welded on the bend to help keep it from flexing. They are just a tad longer because the rim is just a little wider to accept bigger bearings.

I will post a picture in my thread here:

Racinbob, I like your explanation and it makes sense to me. I also notice this when using my 42 inch SD deck. I did not take note as to whether it is on the outward or inward side of the turn or whether it is on the discharge or non discharge side. I do not recall having this on my 42 inch RD deck and I don't think I have it on my 48 inch SD deck. I originally attributed it to lack of lift as I mow my grass high in the summer and with the 42 inch deck, set at the highest setting, the bottom of the deck (the edge closest to the grass) may even be above the grass level, thus reducing the vacuum effect. My 48 inch deck is deeper and set at the same height, it definitely is in the grass at the bottom edge. I any case, I just get the uncut "arc" on the next pass.

There she is... And I just got another one... Oh my. This is getting out of control!

Those are usually around 50#'s each. Mike..........

Thanks, after a little research I found out there is a limit to uploads unless you become a supporter. I thought about just adding links but I just decided to become a supporter.