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The horse I put together by mixing parts from a 518h and 520hc has become a favorite of mine sense completion. now thanks to my sweetheart it has custom decails She contacted vinylguy and he did an excellent job on them!!!! great surprise, very nice quality, thanks to you both

Here's what the question is about by the way..... Ad is asking $500 If I read the ad right, I'd say that's priced pretty well. An RJ-58, with engine has a SPR-42 snow blade and a PP-8 plow with it, and there's two of something... ad says "one for parts and one complete". Seems like a good buy to me. I'd imagine there's already someone on the way to look at it/buy it.

GENO...don't stop posting...you are doing fine and I for one have been enjoying your contribution. Just so you know...there is an ignore function here on Red Square...I use it on a couple of guys and it works great.

being from kentucky gives you the right to be chatty, i know when i'm drinking bourbon i can't shut up!

GENO, when I first got on Red Square, I had some knowledge of engines (working in a "service station") back in the 60's. My Dad had these tractors and they had been sitting for about 20 years. When he passed, I decided to try to get them running again. I found Red Square and the good people on here, they helped me with whatever I needed...manuals, advice. I started going to shows to meet these guys, get parts and see what the love was all about. I have been going to the shows now for about 5 years all over the Midwest and the north east and have met very many of the members that are active on this site. What a ride!! One day I had to rebuild the trans in my 702...1533 bearing was shot. I found a place in transmissions where I started rebuilding them with videos...no one had done that before...and I was suddenly able to help and give back. I really feel like I am part of this site now. I still ask questions (I do not know everything), but there is no feeling like walking someone through rebuilding a transmission and saving a horse with someone who normally would have not even thought of opening one. I have truly been blessed here and I know it. Never feel like not posting in a thread if you have something to offer. It could be a question, that makes everyone think...it could be a thought that has not been presented...it could be the answer that the original guy was looking for...and you could get your "hooby dooby" stepped on also. Mine is pretty flat now. The nice thing about this site is, we all learn together and most are tolerant and willing to share what they have learned. Don't worry about your post count...it really does not mean much. Go to a couple of shows and meet some of the members...listen to what they have to say...that is what is important...the rest will come naturally. Welcome Aboard Mate.

Nah Geno you're fine. It's refreshing to see some new enthusiasm around here. The old enthusiasm was getting kinda boring.

I second what Jim said. Wait till winter rolls around and the forum activity slows to a crawl . Then we'll really need more of that enthusiasm!

This is a forum. Taking is what it's all about. Keep 'em coming.

Happy Birthday Megan. 17 years old today. While ill the entire time, at least you got to make it to the Wheel Horse Show again this year. Unfortunately the WHCC 2015 show won't happen for this clan, this 17 year old will be celebrating her High School Graduation that same weekend. Megan!

How about thoughts on what's inside. Pulled the head off last weekend. Pictured is what I found. Worth saving? or too badly damaged As I mentioned in previous post, flywheel turns freely, piston /valves go up and down - that doesn't mean much but it's something. What are the determining factors in deciding whether to fish or cut bait? I have no experience rebuilding an engine but I'm game if nothing else More pics required of bottom of engine, piston, crank? Also drained the oil - was pleasantly surprised to find at least 1/2 quart.

You know? I'm thinkin' what the Squonk says is making scents here... I thought it was weird that the back of the woodruff key(closest to the trans)was curling up, out of it's channel... as the hub was backing off it. Upon closer inspection, I can see a ball of grit in there that was pushing it up against the hub. I think if you look inside of the hub...the pict tells the whole story here. Also, interesting how wet the axle is vs. the dry appearance of the hub bore.

I do not have an answer, but i have several times been surprised how even after it starst to move it fights all the way off. Most gears/bearing etc. once they pop free come off easily....not so hubs.

heres the only pic i have and it was after the battle was won....... i did mine on the floor of the garage, trans apart from the frame as well, but it wasn't sitting on the tire though. now that would have been a challenge in itself.....

So that's why I haven't heard from you!!!!!

More seat time!

Welcome to the Site Geno I've been off a couple months so you haven't bothered me.. Oh and Chuck, I thought I would mention you misspelled develop.

Is a gorgeous ... can't wait to see it's new bling installed.

My decks all leave a strip in the turns. I just do a couple end run passes to clean it up when I'm finished.

Didn't have a puller on hand, so I decided to give the old "use another hub" method a try today. Ended up cranking on it a for good twenty minutes, and sweating like a stuck pig, to ultimately get it to pull off. While it's no surprise to see it soaked in oil, as the leaky axle seal was the whole reason I wanted it removed in the first place... I am surprised at the amount of effort it took, using a cheater on my 1/2" drive, this thing fought to the bitter end... well past the key way to the very end of the axle. So, I'm wondering, is it normal, for the old accumulated oil to act like some kind of super adhesive glue in there, or could something else going on in there that I'm not aware of...using a woodruff key too big, or the key way wollowed out, maybe?

Outstanding question, Geno[emoji6]

I pull big pump impellers of shafts all the time.it doesn't take much grit to get in between the shaft and hub to lock things up tight. You would be surprised how much can get in between a shaft and hub even with a close tolerance. I've had to "save" $2000 brass impellers from being destroyed pulling them off. Like I said clean the hub bore good. You might find some small grooves worn into the bores from grit holding them on. If rust and gunk gets under the key it will swell and raise the key up out of it's groove

I don't get it either Craig...the only thing I can think of, maybe the end of the axle was mushroomed a little and then you are trying to pull the hub over that all the way. You would think that once you broke it loose, it would come off. You would like to tap it on a little first so you could file the axle end...but sometimes there is no room to do that.

Wow what a job. The #1 thing that has made almost all of my jobs easier is hammer action. Steady pressure breaks things (or makes you sweat + cuss more) while an impact pops things right apart. Do you have a 1/2" impact Craig?

Looks good Bert !

I'm surprised with all that oil on there it fought you that hard. I had to remove a hub on Ezra and shattered one of my super whoopie pullers. That whimpy 1/2 ratchet won't last too long like that. I use a bearing separator behind the hub now and a big honkin gear puller from work to grab the separator and a impact gun to turn the screw. Takes 2 people to hold the puller in place until the screw gets tight but the hub comes off. Clean it all up good. It's possible that hub was removed before and the inside was burred up a bit from that. Get a little flap wheel on a shaft that will fit into a drill and clean up the hub bore. It may also have been rusty and "swollen up" before all that oil leaked out. P.S. Those hubs are real fun when the trans is not on a tractor to hold it in place!

Time to build a bigger barn!

Now that's a Wheel Horse man blade!

Decals look great and you got a real woman there!

I like a lot Bert. The tractor, the decals, the story and your thoughtful wife. Can't wait to see pictures when you them installed.

Wow! Nice Horse and a fantastic wife. You are a lucky guy!.

I'd agree and would jump on that in a heartbeat. That one looks like a great start and then add a parts tractor and attachments. Good deal.

That set screw should be an Allen head, 5/16-18 x 5/16, and the woodruff key is 3/16 x 3/4. If you have a Fastenal in the area, they should have what you need. Oops, looks like you are one step ahead of me.

Geno, we should also caution you about another site phenomenon that occasionally appears around here. It's the Redsquare "Trunk Monkey". You know the type. You offer someone some good sound advice and along comes the "Trunk Monkey" who thinks he knows everything and is smarter than everyone else and starts bashing the crap out of your opinion. Usually it's some "flash in the pan" who is actually pretty smart but gets in over their head by making a bunch promises they can't keep and leaves a lot of unfinished business hanging out there in limbo. You know, the guys that take in everything they can read and then consider themselves to be some self taught Guru on everything from soup to nuts. So now you deliberately go search a thread to find an answer to a problem that's troubling you and, you guessed it, nothing has been done for the last two years to complete the thread. "LIMBO" There may be an answer to the avoiding the "Trunk Monkey" , that being the installation of the "Trunk Monkey Recall Button" pictured below.. which is explained here.. Please continue sharing your information with us though. We all truly are enjoying your posts and I in particular look forward to hearing much more from you. I don't even care what color your beard is. Shucks, I hope this post isn't trivial..

Thank you Steve. Sometimes I wonder if I'm overstepping my bounds. I intentionally try to stay out of some threads so I don't seem overbearing. I know a lot of stuff and being new I don't want to seem like a know it all. I was diagnosed with OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) over 20 years ago and I have to know all I can and do everything perfect. I just posted in a thread about what I use for filters on the Hydros. I use a motor oil filter. A reply was mentioned that what I use is not a hydraulic filter. Of course it's not, there's no hydraulic fluid in the hydro, it takes 10W 30 motor oil and when choosing filters you have to deal with viscosity and flow. I learned this many many years ago and didn't take anyone elses word for it, I called Amsoil (I'm a dealer) Wix, Champion Labs in IN, and several other actual manufacturers to find out what to use. It's the way I do everything and can't help it. It's a blessing and a curse sometimes.

Ewww, stay away from that Magic stuff, takes forever to dry. Since you are a newbie at this spray painting - there is a bit of a learning curve - why not use what the majority of us horse builders use and that is Rustoleum. Its really good, inexpensive stuff, pretty forgiving, a couple great colors (regal red and sunrise red), easily found, wally world, home depot, etc. I also use my HF gun to shoot whatever, I dont even bother with primer except when needed to cover pitting (like hood,fenders) and then I use Rustoleums rusty metal primer (these horses DO get rusty!) I would suggest trying your new skills on pieces that are very visible, trans, frame, axles, etc and try and get a feel for it. Rustoleum will take a little bit of thinner/reducer to flow nicely (heres one of the stickier points) too much will cause to run to easily and to little will cause orange peel... I use plain ole acetone for thinning, I find with its faster evaporation rate, I get a bit faster drying times. If you have to do touch up, do it as soon as you can handle the piece, Rustoleum - and many other paints will crinkle/bubble badly if recoated with out waiting 2-3 weeks. Jump in there and give it a try...

Always Always pick Rutgers!

Don't know how many of you guys watched the Rutgers/Washington St. game last night. Rutgers won in a high scoring, back and forth game. I think Rutgers went to a bowl game last year...they are for real. I personally welcome any team to the Big Ten that can beat a Pac 12 team. It is going to be hard to pick the Rutgers games this year.

I see the idea behind that.....but I will stick to the application....hydraulic application = hydraulic filter......

Bert, great story and a belated happy birthday. Dont forget more pictures when your done. And thanks for sharing. Glenn

I do a lot of that, Racin'Bob. And it isn't just one deck. My 42" RD deck does it bad. Both my 42" SD and my 48" SD deck do this. The only deck that has minimum missed strips on turns is my 37" SD deck. I just love that little deck. It and the 48" deck give me the best cuts. All the decks are tuned, sharp and in good mechanical order.

Just another Update... The C-105 I brought home last night had a slight electrical issue.. Got that knocked out a she runs like a !!

Don, it's more of a theory of mine but there's clearly about a 1/2'" space between the tips of the blade where they would meet. Maybe the turbulence gets some of it, I don't know. It's always to the inside of the turn. If you're turning to the right the center and right blade can be perpendicular to the grass 'exposing' the gap and missing the grass. The center and left blade would actually overlap a bit more. If you position all the blades straight side to side they overlap. All the above suggestions are great. A properly adjusted deck with sharp blades will minimize it. Whenever I can I either swing out over a mowed area and make a u-turn so I come back at the unmowed grass straight or, if I need to turn right, I mow just past the row and make a 270 degree turn to the left. Or just stop, back up and do the turn that way.

Well here is number 3 I think it is a 654 or something like that.. You guys can help me identify this one for me. (I am still a newbie) I still have to pick this one up..

Racinbob, I like your explanation and it makes sense to me. I also notice this when using my 42 inch SD deck. I did not take note as to whether it is on the outward or inward side of the turn or whether it is on the discharge or non discharge side. I do not recall having this on my 42 inch RD deck and I don't think I have it on my 48 inch SD deck. I originally attributed it to lack of lift as I mow my grass high in the summer and with the 42 inch deck, set at the highest setting, the bottom of the deck (the edge closest to the grass) may even be above the grass level, thus reducing the vacuum effect. My 48 inch deck is deeper and set at the same height, it definitely is in the grass at the bottom edge. I any case, I just get the uncut "arc" on the next pass.

When your wife asks, "So how many do you have?" and your first reaction is to play dumb.

When you have to ask, you know you're already there. Come on in, cop a squat, state your name.

I'll bet that: (1) Your grass is a little high. (Like all of ours is before we mow this year)! (2) Your mowing in 3rd or 2nd gear and not slowing down when you make the turn. Next time you mow, run it fast on the straight stretches but slow it way down on the turn then look at your quality of cut. I'll bet it is much better. These are garden tractors and not specifically designed for just mowing. (Ever notice why your neighbor's Crapsman's mower deck sounds like an airplane propeller)? You can fine tune the deck and make the blades sharp as a knife but if you take turns fast while mowing, it will leave a strip of grass each time.

Hey buddy. Wife is really getting into canning again. She just done 12 pints of okra. She found a recipe that had lemon slices and A whole raft of other pices and such No telling what these will be like but will let you know. About another big batch of peppers ready to pick. Had scrambled eggs with okra in this morning. Time to try the peppers now, been bout a week and A half now so they should be ready. Jim in texas