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I have always wanted a John Deere 110 round fender. Some of you know that earlier this year, in a matter of weeks I bought two 1965, 110 round fenders. After looking both tractors over and driving them for a bit I decided that I really didn't care for the mechanicals of the John Deere. I also didn't like how the engine was placed inside the engine compartment and frame. I do however like their color combination, variable speed and styling. In the past month I've been approached by four different people to purchase their Wheelhorse tractor's. I purchased two of them but I decided I didn't need anymore in my heard because I already had eight or nine Wheel Horse plus the two John Deere. Even with a new barn I still only have so much time, space and money. Well I finally decided that I'm a Wheelhorse guy through and through (although I'm still looking for a nice Farmall Cub) and sold both John Deere tractors yesterday. Now I have the space and the money to pick up the rest of those tractors that were offered to me. So today I applied to get my Wheel a Horse Man Card back. A idea how long that will take? :-)

Had to pick a tractor for todays mowing Three little horses In a row All decked out Ready to mow Who do I choose For the task ahead It'll have to be Something Red With the 520 I know I'd have it made I can mow all day In the shade But I know the Onan Guzzles his gas So I think today He gets a pass We'll wait for winter When the north winds blow And see how you do In the drifting snow Now The little Tecky I know is the best But He's worked so hard He deserves a rest So today the Red Raider Must do it all For this job ahead HE GETS THE CALL

Hey fellas, dont forget my card. Is this the card where everytime time mrs scowels at a new tractor then the card gets a star punched into it? Glenn

Things are sorta backed up in the processing dept, but if the green ones are gone we will try to speed things up for you.

We challenged my daughter to read a bunch of books over the summer and told her if she did that we'd take her to Chicago to the museums. She made it, so we made the drive up there this weekend to visit the Field Museum and Musuem of Science and Industry. She really wanted to see Sue, the T-Rex on display at the Field Musuem: But there was one heck of a surprise in store for us. Now, Chicago is a big place with millions of people so I didn't expect to run into anyone we knew. Let alone someone from this forum... None other than Stevasuarus from Elgin was there! What are the chances?! Steve

Cobalt drills, pricey, hard to find, brittle as hell but effective. I fought one of those on a 655 for 2 days strait at work after hours I think I would up using other roll pins to finally beat it out. Was too hard to drill as the drill will always wander to the softer cast iron material even in a drill press and I could not get the frame in the mill or I would have one that. Also you can cut the shaft in the middle pull the two ends out press or drill the shaft out of the casting and make a new shaft. Did that on my Lawn Ranger

Welcome back from the Dark Side Dave.

I have had this happen here Clickable pic USA happened thru my ignorance needed i size smaller

well, the deck shell appears to be a 1960 RMR-32 deck. That's the only one I can think of that had the runners like that. There should be a little hole on the back side between the two flaps sticking up, that's where the lift rod connected. The stripped frame appears to be the matching Suburban that went with the deck... so I'd say either a 400/550. And the other frame looks to be like a 1962 something to me... so 502/552/702. I'd lean toward 502 by the shift decal placement and switch hole plug.

Here's a better offer.... I'll come pick it up, fix it, and bring it back to you. It may take 10-15 years, but I'll bring it back...I promise.

Can't wait to see and chat with some of you there! I have every intention of being there with my one and only WH.. Edit: I have 2 now!! Edit again: I have 3 now. Maybe four on Friday!

It only takes one to make you a real man.

I'm going out on a limb here and this is just my opinion, but i would think that the absolute best tires would be ROUND TIRES!!!!

I bought a HF about 4-5 years ago. I love the fact that I can blast small parts without having to set up outside with my pressure blaster which is way messier than the blast cabinet. Have no problems with leakage except when you open the door. I have two issues with the cabinet: First is the cheesy plastic glass covers, they don't last very long so you definitely need to get a extra package or two. Second is they need an internal baffle for the vacuum port. I tend to suck a lot of media through the vacuum so I made a cyclone dust collector that goes between my blaster and my vacuum so that any media I suck up drops into the cyclone. I also use allergen style vacuum bags along with the normal pleated filter in my vacuum. It prolongs the life of my pleated filter and helps to reduce or eliminate any blow-by. I also put a cart under mine. It makes it easier to move when I need access through my back door. A good water filterseparator is a must have at the cabinet, otherwise you're media will clog up.

Are you sure the pin has not sheared and the holes are no longer aligned. On the Raider clutch I just repaired, I could see some movement between the shaft and lever when I applied torque, so I knew the pin had sheared even though there was enough friction to operate the clutch. So I had to tap the shaft out, then remove the three pcs of pin. When I put it back together, I added a set screw and a second pin. This placing of the pin near the OD of the shaft increases the shear area and the strength 2-4 X

As mentioned above, I used a kit from TP Tools that supplies you with all the hardware. It came with plans to build the cabinet with plywood. I modified the plans to a larger unit. Cabinet measures 24" high, 30" deep and 60" wide.

I finally got a chance to rebuild a transmission with a hi/low mechanism. This is a 6 speed #5060 transmission with the 10 pinion limited slip differential. Notice the brake shaft comes out the hole closest to the axle housing. The 8 speeds brake shaft comes out of the cluster shaft hole. I did a series of videos for this thread along with some pictures. The videos are split up between different phases of rebuilding...ie...the differential, the hi/low shift mechanism, the rest of the gears 1 & 2 (my batteries died in the camera). Most of the information will be in the videos...be advised that I did some struggling while doing these videos and I left them as is because it is not always easy. Hope this helps you guys. correction... According to the manual the bolts that hold the differential together are in backwards in the video. The nuts should be on the input shaft side (right side) of the transmission. Sorry, I missed that. Just got the trans split. I use a 1" old wood chisel to start and then work the case apart with a pry bar. A couple shots after getting the case half off...trans is in neutral. The trans case works as a work bench for the differential...very cool Here is the reason the trans needed to be opened. An axle gear lost it's teeth and the pieces were lodged in the pinions. Finished and back together. The rest are the videos...1st on is the differential... Next 2 are dealing with the hi/low mechanism...1st one taking apart and the 2nd on putting together...be nice...it was my first time. Now, 2 videos putting the rest of the trans together...batteries died just before I finished the first video. Thanks for looking

Great year again at Pioneer Power... The big show's double features were "Classic Tractors" meaning anything made before 1970, and "Vintage Snowmobiles". I thought the turnout for regular tractors/gas engines was a little weak, perhaps due to no specific brand feature. The snowmobiles however filled the feature building and they had to find space for the overflow in adjacent buildings. I think I heard they were expecting 125, and by Friday morning there were already 160 with more showing up all day. The Wheel Horse turnout was pretty good. I never took an actual count, and we were definitely down a few from other years, but we still had a strong showing. It's been interesting to watch how our presence at the show these last 7 years has begun to really draw out other Garden Tractor exhibitors. There were a few Wheel Horse items on the auction... none of which came home with club members. Not that prices were unreasonable... just no one felt the need to own them. Reportedly the D-250 brough $650. Supposedly ran and drove in (don't they all, right?), didn't start at auction. Lawn Ranger brought short money, but no one was particularly interested in it. Likewise with the little dump cart. A few faces.... Joebob ol550 TerryM (and son Andrew) prondzy (and wife/daughter) and shynon Rest of show pics... good turnout of horses and attachments. A few others mixed in here.

Been looking for a couple months finally found one right down the road. Works great behing the 312-8 even in the mud!

Looks to me if you re route the exit chute, you could pretty much make the chipper a 3pt attachment and run a drive shaft strait from the d series pto to the chipper. It will need a little modification, but I'm sure You could do it

Nice looking tractor! Nice looking GM stable as well!

I got the thrust bearings from McMaster-Carr yesterday. They are very fast at filling and shipping an order. Had to try them to see how they would fit. Will have to grind .015 inches off the top of the axle in order to get the top washer and cotter pin in. That won't take long and if what I hear is true it will make the steering a lot smoother.

Nice plow... more garden, = less grass to mow.

Better stock up on TP and don't buy it at the Dollar Store!

Oh, what the heck, I'll give it a shot. MINNESOTA WASHINGTON ST. MICHIGAN ST. ILLINOIS IOWA NEBRASKA NORTHWESTERN PURDUE LSU INDIANA MARYLAND MICHIGAN OHIO ST. CENTRAL FLORIDA At least I'll get to pick my favorite next week.

AFTER MEETING HER, I concur, your lucky as can be. In a wheel horse kinda way to,,,wish my wife let me buy so many,,,,,,,,,, Glenn

Yep, someone has been in there before me, doing a 20ft rattle can job at some point it's past. The other end of the shaft, I believe is welded to the idler pulley bracket. I'm this close to cutting in half, but a new American made punch set is already on it's way... patience is the key here, lot's of good ideas presented here that I'd like to give a try first. I'll let you know ultimately, what ends up working for me.

Just to give you a little idea of the show grounds for those of you that have never attended. Tractors will be placed inside the big circle in the front of the property. Swap meet area will be from the east end of the barn and head down around the driveway and out to the main road. Tables and chairs will be set up inside the barn for you to relax, chat with others, eat some great food, etc. If you need to come set up Friday afternoon or evening that is completely fine. I will be there wrapping things up for the event. I will have a set of ramps if you need them. Parking will be just east of the property in the open field across from the Clunette United Methodist Church. This property is owned, and graciously loaned, by the Clunette Elevator. I will continue to add more updates as we are quickly approaching the October 4th date. Please be sure to get your orders in for shirts soon! You don't want to miss out!

Gorgeous new Geno... I'm diggin' it's matching bowtie too.

http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/wheel-horse-34520-lawn-tractor-9-pin-wiring-harness-connector-p-1508.html

(i know its a tall order, but you could have tried to get him to smile just a little bit...) Martin, Jason couldn't see it but he was, look at the corners of his mouth ( thats his smilie face)

Ed, what an excellent post to that my glass raises and I give you a toast you had a great rhyme with a bit of a boast but sir, most of the time what horse gets used most Glenn that concludes the wheel horse poetry hour

Did you have to buy the wine for your wife before she would let you buy another one ! Nice find

Imagine that retreat.

All good tips Martin... especially liked the shot punch idea for the initial blow.

Craig, you can buy the good stuff and it will do the job fine and probably last forever if you treat them right. heres something that I've had success with. search for any tool surplus stores nearby. i have one close that the owner buys lots of tools from the local arsenal when they have past there useable life or they retool for some reason. usually there is nothing wrong with most of them and you can pick up some very nice professionally made tooling very cheap. i buy odd taps, reamers, bits etc and have managed to find quite a few punches and drifts for the sort of thing you are having problems with. i also have a nice older craftsman punch set that is still in excellent condition that i have looked after and not abused. the quality of the material the tool is made from is important. sometimes starting to remove a pin like you are doing is better with a shorter punch to jolt it loose and then use a longer one to remove it. the longer thin ones tend to bend or bow when they are beat hard. Jims idea has worked for me in the past too. sometimes you just know after the first blow that it aint going to come out and you need to drill it out of there!!!!!

Well guys, just another update.. Changed the oil, cleaned the spark plug and threw it on the charger. Put alot of elbow grease into it and rebuilt the plow linkage and greased her up nice. And now for the pictures you always want.

No need... bring a coffee can. Chock full O'nuts!

Sure wish I'd read all of this prior to attempting to dismantle the deck for the tractor I am currently working on. The center pulley was in such bad shape that I used a hack saw and cut clear through the pulley at the hub - right next to the shaft. After getting that out of the way I set up in a similar fashion as described by Daveoman here, gave it a big whack (like I had done on others before) and promptly popped off the bottom end of the housing at the snap ring groove just like Diamondred described. Before I tear up the other two, I've had them soaking with KROIL for a couple of days and I"ll be trying the socket method tomorrow! A shout out to Squonk in Waterloo... I had no luck with the separator. PS. got that blade home safe and sound but still have not mounted it! Thanks, and best regards to all.

James, that horse is broke in the wrong kinda way! You probably need to tighten up the friction disc. If you have the manual, it explains how to do it.

I added wheels to mine - glad I did, has come in handy. After using 2-3 different vacuum systems and not being completely satisfied, I finally got a dedicated blast cabinet vacuum system from Enco, it REALLY works! Like HF Enco often offers % off codes and I grabbed a %20 and free ship, and that eased the cost. I also added a switch to control the vac and light. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=803-0027 Dust --- theres probably gonna be a certain amount of dust, just the nature of the beast. As mentioned, pay careful attention on assy and use caulk or weather stripping on any possible weak areas. For instance, when you open the door there always fallout from build up at the door edge. I have very little leakage on mine, but still, on cleaning the glass and after a cleaning session there will usually be a bit of dust on the glass. I tried using the window protectors and found that with the somewhat cloudy view through them and them further hazing so quickly that I just gave up on them, you also have to have the inside glass very clean or they wont stick. After using the cabinet for as long as I have, I have learned to keep the object being cleaned and the gun positioned to get the best angle away from the glass, if pointed for just a brief time the glass will badly haze. I can usually get quite a good life from a glass. I just buy 3-4 replacement glass at a time and change it out.

Would this apply to your's? Download the 2 pages. Garry

yep that's the one!! the new one chasing the old one, and heading down to Oklahoma with stuff for a tornado relief drive. I don't follow sports much, to many tractor and buckskinner things to do here. I'll let you guys play the big ten games and ill just root for the hawks

I run 200-300 lbs in this. Any extra weight is good weight!

Looks like a good place to add a couple of lights to me! Lol! :-)

This vid? jwl, I hope you'll join us and make your picks this season.

Thank You all for the very nice Welcome.. Everyone seems very nice here, unlike most forums. Well just an update, I pulled her out of the weeds and cleaned her up just a bit. Took the chains and weights off because we had a mission for tonight. I needed to clear some land for a massive swing set for my children and I though what better way to do that then with the WH. So once she started up we were off and she ran like a champ! Here are some better pics of her not covered in weeds. And please don't mind the mess in the garage my kids are spoiled brats.. haha Oh and Im guessing the yellow wheels are not original, correct? And Im not real sure where to start on a project like this so if anyone has any pointers I am more than thankful.

Here we go.. MINNESOTA WASHINGTON ST. MICHIGAN ST. YOUNGSTOWN ST. IOWA NEBRASKA CALIFORNIA WESTERN MICHIGAN WISCONSIN INDIANA MARYLAND MICHIGAN OHIO ST. PENN ST.

Reminds me of the day my barber found a wire imbedded in my ear. After she removed it, I remembered I was wire wheeling some wheels several days before. I never knew it was there, even after showering. Luckily she didn't think it was a course silver hair and ruin a $500 set of clippers trying to cut it off. Wear a full face shield over safety glasses when operating any grinder. Wires break off and stones explode.

I've owned all of the D-auto models at one time or another but only kept the 1973 18-Auto as my "collectable." So I'll toss my 2 cents in the fountain... I've never been overly impressed with the abilities of the D-autos compared to the C-series, but they certainly have their following. I always felt that they wanted for traction, especially when equipped with the floatation turf tires on the rear. I tried plowing snow with a 56" blade on my D160-K and didn't find it very satisfactory. On my D180 the snowthrower was so heavy on the front that even with wheel weights and extra ballast hanging on the hitch I couldn't get back up my driveway when the blower was lifted. Both tractors had weights and chains. They're also not particularly manueverable. They have a wide turning radius and slow steering that made them uncomfortable (for me) to use for mowing. I'm not sure if the available turning brakes improve this much. The engines used seem to put out obscene amounts of power, so you'll seldom overwork the engine on a D. The tractors were decent machines, but they did have some problems that years of (mis)use can highlight. For example, the early D's and all of the 18-Autos had 3/4" diameter front spindles. These were prone to breaking even without the added stress of front implements. Retrofits to 1" spindles and axles cured that. The steering boxes seem to get very loosy-goosey over time. The transmission itself seems to be a bit undersized for the tractor. The hydro used was also used on much smaller C-series tractors and seems more vulnerable to overheating and premature wear in the D-autos. Transmission temperature gauges were fitted after the 1974 revision and later a transmission cooling fan was added to help alleviate the heat. I think the size of the tractor and its big implements (like the 56" blade or the loader) set these things up for abuse. At some point, 1975 or 1976 I think, Wheel Horse added a pressure relief valve to the transmission bolted to the frame behind the left rear tire to help absorb spikes (and damage) from hard use. These improvements, I think, indicated that the hydro unit was a bit marginal for some applications. The divorced hydro pump and motor was actually, in my opinion, a brilliant idea. Why run a long shaft or belt from the engine to the transmission when a couple of pipes could do the same thing? Simple and effective. The differential bolts have already been mentioned. It's not terribly uncommon to find a tractor with a welded transaxle casing from one of these errant bolts getting pushed through the cast iron. Speaking of transaxles; in/around 1976 Wheel Horse relocated the parking brake control from a separate control on the dashboard to the Direction Control Lever (DCL). The DCL, then, had the obvious positions of Fwd-N-Reverse but also added a Park position accessed by pulling the DCL rearward into a separate slot near the Reverse position. The Park position engaged the parking pawl inside the transaxle (another weak spot). Anyway, apparently this reconfiguration caused problems with operators shifting into Park while still on the move which, of course, introduced the possibility of causing internal transaxle damage. One guy I talked to who has scrapped probably a couple hundred D-autos over the years said it could even cause the transaxle to drop out of the tractor if the loads were high enough and the traction was good enough. The Parking brake control was later moved back to the dashboard and the extra slot was filled with a bolt-on plate. Eventually, a contracting band on an external drum replaced the internal pawl on all Wheel Horse hydros including the D. But they did offer some big attachments and a lot of guys really like them. Strangely, the biggest belly deck ever offered was a 48" unit. But 60" and even a 72" rear mower (from Woods) was offered. The 72-incher is exceedingly rare and I've only ever known of one of them that Jim M had. 54" and 56" front blades, 50" mid blades, Ark 550 loaders, 48" thrower, and - of course - the backhoe attachments were offered. You can see that the dreams and plans for the D-autos were big. The 50" tiller is a brute. Early versions were actually 38" in width with optional extensions for the total 50" width. But be advised that the input gear tends to be a bit weak and the tiller should NEVER be used with the 3pt hitch set up to provide down pressure. It can overload the tiller and can lift the rear of the tractor enough to propel it forward with considerable and uncontrollable eagerness. The market was for "estate" owners and pretty much whomever now would be buying a Sub Compact Utility Tractor. They remained in the lineup a long time and must have acheived pretty good sales considering how expensive they were. 1973 marked the introduction of the series with the 18-Automatic. In 1974, the tractor was mildly changed (the dashboard changed to include more gauges, the parking brake lever moved from the "hump" to the dash, and the space under the hood grew taller by about an inch) and the D160 with a Kohler k341 single cylinder joined the lineup, the D180 with a Kohler k482 replaced the 18-Auto, and the D200 with a k532 was added. The D160K was a stripper tractor with no headlights, a simple seat, and smaller engine. The top line D200 was fully dressed with PTO/3pt/and turning brakes. D180's and D200's had a "suspension seat" mounted on a big spring and easily adjusted forward and aft. I think the seats themselves were different. And the D200 had a 5-gallon gas tank whereas the others were smaller. In 1978 (I think) the 16-kohler was dumped for the Onan 16 horse twin BF-something. The D180 was dropped. And the D200 soldiered on. I think eventually the 3pt was added as standard to all D's. Probably to use up parts or something. The C195 and D250 experiments and the end of the run for the D-autos put the nail in the coffin for WH dipping a toe in the larger tractor market. I too found implements hard to find, but 3pt/PTO attachments can be had if you look outside the WH family. The 2000 rpm rear PTO and the cat 0 hitch really became the standard for many garden tractors up through the 1980's or 1990's. Deere and Cub Cadet (probably others) offered 2000 rpm bush hogs, tillers, and finish mowers. The location of the PTO shaft itself was a bit goofy on some Cubs that might make their implements hard to interchange, but there is more out there than I first realized. The D250, on the other hand, is really wacky with a 1000 RPM PTO that spins in the opposite direction (CCW). The D-autos were GOOD tractors. But not great. The C-series were GREAT tractors. Wow, that's a lot of typing for 2 cents. Not necessarily much value though. Steve