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Your's run on water? Sheesh... I usually can't even get them to run on something flammable!

Teckky...by those who like and respect them. Techumsh*t by those who don't.

even sounds stronger than Kohler (don't they make toilets?) .

Just got a 1997 Wheel Horse 520H. the very nice young man even delivered it from up state New Jersey tonight at about 10:00 PM. Metal work is in pretty good shape but there may be a problem with the engine. He told me it was locked up. someone butchered the wiring and that will need some repair. He was on his way to North Carolina and I only live 2 miles from US 95, so he stopped by and dropped it off. I will have more photos as soon as I learn how to get them off this new IPhone I got yesterday. This makes the fourth Wheel Horse I picked up in two months. I am done this year. I think.

It matches which red?

Water?? I guess my Dad should have had Teckys instead of Kohlers. Back in the early 60's, after watching him put water in that tank thingy under the hood of the car, I decided to help him out by putting water in that tank thingy on the Wheel Horse. That's when he learned that the water will reach the carb only at the furthest point from the garage on his 10 acres.

I call 'em bullet proof at my house.

Heres a little project I've been working on. I have been looking for a xi for some time on the cheap I finally picked up a very well used 520xi. It had issues from one end to the other. One axel/ hub was bad, all the linkage was loose/ worn, steering plate was loose, front axle pin was severly worn, one engine coil was bad, throttle linkage was rigged,engine was flopping around and some other stuff. FIrst was to get it running, it did! Next was to tear into the rearend. I knew I was putting a 3pt on it so it got all new bearings and axles, I tried D series, C195 finally GT14 axles were the ticket for the 6 lug hubs. I wanted to install the limited slip diff also but the diff offset is different so that was a no go. Next was to fab up the 3pt which is controled by rebuilt 82 C195 hyd valves so it has float. Had to raise the gas tank and seat pan 3 inches and modify the hi/lo selector also to get everything stuffed in there. But if I ever want to go back to stock, the only thing needed would be the hi/lo selector and gas tank mount, everything else is bolted on. Toro should of had this option cause it was a pain!

We had this pedal cart laying around that spent a few years sitting in the woods before we got it. The kids used it for a few years and the steering finally gave up the ghost after being fixed a few times so it sat for a while. I was about to cut it apart and haul it to the scrap metal dumpster at work when I had a vision. With the sawzall already in hand I started cutting. Next thing you know the welder came out. Cut down the length and made it so it can be taken apart for transport. Had to cut down the front sides so it doesn't hit the tractors rear tires when turning. That was two weeks ago. I started vacation Monday and since it was nice got to painting it. I think it came out pretty good for something I didn't pay a dime for and was on it's way to the scrap yard. Now I'm contimplating making a removable rear shelf for hauling any treasures I may find at the shows etc. Here's how it started life: And Now!

Good point Bob. Maybe you could find a partner.. Kudzu3, glad you got your tractor running. These guys really do know their stuff around here.

I'll agree your addicted. I thought I was bad by getting 8 in one year. Lol

Nice tractor, looks like a good washing may reveal a prize. As far as 4 Horses in 2 months, it's time to pick up the pace!

That's a nice one, pretty clean to boot. As far as quitting for the year, why bother? Nice score!

What kinda tractor do you want Jason? Ill throw an extra on the trailer for you

yeah and Barney Fife only has 1 bullet!!!!!

I'll be there Steve. Sounds like I'll have my father-in-law with me at least one day too! (I'll tell him you'll be there) Been many years since I've made it to this show.

Videography is not my strong suit. The best tutorials are done with a second person doing the camera work.

Craig, I just can't resist when the opportunity is there. You know I luv all the lil RED TRACTORS . The square just seemed a little slow lately....thought this might stir-em up a bit.

The great warrior chief Tah-cum'-sah.

Congrats. Assuming its an Onan. I'd start bye making a boat anchor out of the motor. Drop a Kohler, Honda, or Chinese clone in the chassis and put her to work.

Did that tractor come from Charles? Super nice guy if it did!

Nice Horse! You need more Stallions in the barn! Keep up the pace and we expect to see at least two more in the next two months! Yes, two or more!

Get a 12v test light. Unhook the neg cable from the battery. And connect the light in series. If there is a draw the light will glow. Start disconnecting things until the light goes out

It's the end(seh)is what people get creative with. I've heard it...see, say, sah. Correctly, I think the(seh)is pronounced "ahh" To me it's...Tecums-ahh.

( teh-KUM-sah )

In the data it mentions "protects brass synchronizers," so I think that this might work. Bronze is primarily made from copper. Thanks!

Good thing done. The engine and trany have been rebuilt and it's now time to attack this pile of junk For the transmission I'm waiting for the boot and knob I've ordered. I've started etching the tractor base and it will take a little more work. I also will have to get new tires for this horse.

My buddy used to call them "te-junk-seh"

Might have nothing to do with another mower.

I think what the decal is doing is identifying where to hook the snapper to the Wheelhorse for a tow out of the yard... :)

All is well!!! Installed the new solenoid and everything worked just right, engine turns, got power everywhere that should have. I re checked everything with the light prior to installing the new solenoid and the old one was definitely garbage. Bob, you were exactly right about starting with the right parts (solenoid). Gene, your explanation today of the way things should work was a big help in determining the problem. It's all a matter of experience, you folks have it and I'm trying to get it. The engine wouldn't crank, seems to have a minor fuel to carb problem, but I know a little bit about that part, so I won't be asking a lot of ridiculous questions about that. Thank you all for the wonderful assistance. PS I hope to post some pictures in a few days when the hood dries.

It's OK...it would be nice to have a second for doing the videos.

Bob...ever think about doing a couple of videos??? Words are cheap, pictures are worth a 1,000 words...videos are worth a $1,000,000. I'm a dinosaur stuck in the 21st century...come on in...it is not that bad.

Koen

Teckumseh Teck-um-seh No idea how that could be right but thee you go James

Very nice work Jeff. One question though, where does the rider put their feet? Am I missing something in the pic?

Got 'em coming out my ying yang here.

Tecky??

In 3 years , take your tractor for a spin by his place . Then compare the two , giggle & ride off into the sunset . My neighbor was the same way with my 66 Ariens snowblower , he laughed when he saw it when i moved into my new house . He's going on his 4th "big-box'er" in the last 17 years & my old girl keeps on throwin . Now who's laughin ?

And so it began...

C'mon, ain't no way it took you all night to drink six beers.

I don't want you to take this the wrong way, but when you are working with a part that is not correct, it makes the whole long-distance troubleshooting process that much harder. So go and get the right solenoid. It should only cost you about $10.00, and it will take one of your problems out of the equation. The following precautions should be in place before attempting the following tests: Transmission in neutral. Ignition switch in the OFF position. Heavy cable from solenoid to starter disconnect at the solenoid. With the solenoid in place, and the (+) battery cable connected to one of the large lugs, and nothing connected to the other large lug, with the key off, take your multimeter, put it in the DC volts mode, connect the black probe to ground, then touch the red probe to the large lug connected to the battery. You should have 12 volts. There should be no voltage at the other large lug, or at the small lug. Now with the key still in the off position, connect a small jumper wire to the SMALL lug of the solenoid. Next, momentarily touch that jumper wire to the LARGE lug that is connected to the (+) battery. The solenoid should give you a loud click, indicating that it is closing the contacts on the inside. When those contacts close, the other large lug becomes hot (meaning that it has 12 volts as well). That is where the starter gets it's voltage from. If the cable from the starter was connected to that lug, the starter would engage. Once you have established that you have a working solenoid, remove the small jumper wire. Now look at where the (+) battery wire is connected to the solenoid, There should also be a small 14 or 16 gauge wire connected there going to the (+) side of the ammeter. From the other side of the ammeter, a wire should go to the B terminal of the ignition switch. With your multimeter in the DC voltage testing position, securely connect the black probe to ground, and touch the red probe to the B terminal of the ignition switch. You should have 12 volts. If you don't you may have a bad ammeter, or bad connections to the back of the ammeter. If you do have 12 volts at the B terminal, then remove the red probe, turn the ignition switch to ON or RUN. You should now be able to place the red probe on the (+) terminal of your ignition coil and have 12 volts. Now find the end of the wire that should connect to the small terminal of your solenoid. Connect the red probe to that wire and turn and hold the ignition switch in the start position. You should have 12 volts. If you do, then connect that wire to the small lug, turn the ignition switch to start and the solenoid should click. Reconnect the starter cable to the unoccupied large lug, and start your tractor.

I have been impressed with this set up on an Electro12. The narrow tires (6.00x12) 69lb weights on each side plus some more on the hitch,and the chains (the zigzag design make it a smoother ride) combined with the limited slip differential are awesome. You can make the engine lug down before the wheels spin.

Another member (toolman) Ronnie from Warsaw MO died a few months ago..he was "one of a kind" and loved his Wheel Horse...think it was a 73 model but he had it looking good and loved to talk tractors....not sure what his wife will do with the ole WH and sulkey...RIP Ronnie

Craig has the right idea, but I would just hook the roller, to the horse, and park it in my front lawn. Put a little sign on it, "Lawn Rolling for Free"! Rob

That is one of the best stories I've heard about the new "homogenized" lawn tractors. I would go over there and pull his roller...laughing the whole time. Now He'll probably buy a

You can bet your bippy... I'd have my set up with a roller... for the sole purpose of doing hot laps with it every time he drives by. Give him the big smile, a friendly wave, and don't forget the loud "Hey buddy" to boot.

Oh... I'm so ashamed ...sniff...sniff.

I bought it in a trailer load of stuff. Probably got $200 into it. Motor has compression and rolls over, just no spark. No history other than the PO was in the middle of restoring it and fired up the motor while it was in gear and it drove right out of his garage, right through the door!