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Just brought home my new to me 1967 877. It's a little rough and I don't know much about it. Is there anything I should be checking on these? I only found the hydro service manual. Are there any operator manuals? What kind of fluid goes in the trans? I haven't seen "type a" anywhere. Are the lights original?

i was able to get around to making something to mount my flag on my tractor.nothing fancy just some scrap i had laying around.

Your colors are looking really good there... did one of mine up earlier for the 4th of July.

I'm so proud of the children I wish I had that opertunity when I was that age but ts good to see that the love for the horses will stay alive James

As some of you know my family has purchased my parents property out in the country. For just over a month we have been packing, unpacking, organizing, and trying to get settled. Had some time today to take a couple of Horses out. I am really digging the country life and don't miss the subdivision one bit!

Last winter I managed to wear the end of the lift pin on my snow thrower down to just below the hole for the cotter pin. Thought it would be great to really clean the driveway but it never occurred to me that I was grinding the pin down with every use as you can see in the picture below. Finally decided to replace it but I thought I'd try an idea to prevent the same thing from happening again. So first off, I removed the hook. The picture is after it was removed from the snow thrower. This required lots of elbow grease with a hacksaw blade, small grinder, a hammer and chisel. Rooting around a friends machine shop I found some 5/8 diameter rod and made up a new L shaped piece but instead of just recreating the existing hook, I decided to thread one leg of the L for a 5/8-11 thread, and drilled a 1/8 hole for a cotter pin to hold a slotted nut in place. I then welded the new lift hook back in place along with the piece of flat stock that originally help to hold it in place. Right side Left side The final photo shows the hook with the nut, pin and the large washer that will lay on top of the lift bar. I'm hoping that the combination of washer, nut and pin will be enough keep the lift bar in place. I hitched the snow thrower up last weekend to try it out and the scuffs in the paint are from the lift bar. It lifted the thrower with no problems and now winter can't get here fast enough to really give it a test. My next mod might be to add a scraper blade to the lower edge of the snowthrower as I'd rather replace that and not the snow thrower.

Just wanted to say hi! I have been riding Wheel Horse tractors since I was born(1970). My dad always had Wheel Horses and its been in my blood. I currently have a Commando 800 3 speed(tecumseh), 417-A, and a 314-Hydro. My 417-A quit working on me so I found the info on here to get it back up and running. Nice forum and a lot of good information. I was shocked to find so much info on these old tractors. I never realized how well built these are compared to a lot of the stuff out there today. I knew no different because this is all we ever owned until my neighbor saw the uni-drive on my one mower and showed me what his Home Depot bought mower had for a rear end. We started to compare and I realized his stuff sure won't last 40 plus years like my one mower. My family and I took the old commando apart and fixed her up and painted it and my son wanted it to look like a race car so we put racing stickers all over it. Amazing how well it still cuts after so many years. So nice site and hello!

Well dad and I are having a ball....but the enthusiasm these kids are showing is pretty cool as well.

Looking fantastic Scott. Be careful picking on your Dad. I used to do that. Then before I knew it my daughters are doing the same to me.

That is dad taking a nap, I mean tightening bolts. :)

Who's the big kid in the red shirt under the tractor?

1.5 acres is plenty. House is a perfect distance off the road. Plenty of nice concrete drive to plow, farm land all around to play in (with permission of course) and a horse barn to die for. So happy for you Scott!!!

Thanks for all of the comments. This is the first time I have lived out in the country and am glad the family was able to make the switch. So far so good. Everything is just about organized and put away. Now remembering where it is will be the tough part. Ken---we only own about 1 1/2 acres but are completely surrounded by farm land. None of the neighbors are close at all except for the grain elevator across the street. Here is the new place.....

Got the pics figured out!!!

Will I could haul the material with a Dodge and Ford attached to the back of the trailer too. I did a little tuner upgrade on it... Running over 800 ft lbs of torque now....

I was tiling a bathroom on a hotel recently and i had a few old broken tiles left over, so i thought rather than just throw them away i would put them to good use . Here are a few pics of what i managed to conjour up , The mosaic even has some chrome wheel nuts which i took off some plumbing fittings I thought i would use the display when showing my tractors at the shows

Drove to work this morning and ran into this hailstorm. We got 4 inches in spots. We had to get the back hoe out to clear 1 road. Still piles of hail on the roof at 3:00 this afternoon at 80 deg!

Do these exist? I've been talking with a friend who saw a 'yellow' Wheel Horse RJ style, it had 'Industrial' by the deck lift. He also recalls a yellow C series industrial.. whom the father bought new. I've never heard of these, but I'm no expert.. do these really exist..? Described as Yellow with black lettering. I dunno.. Stepney.

Yes they are a little sore but it has been worth it. Not as nice as the job you did but good enough for government work. I will do a bit more tomorrow. I still have to install that fuse holder too.

I don't care who ya are, that's funny right there.

Not sure what you have into it money-wise but there are plenty of parts that are worth selling. Does the motor turn over with compression? Is the plastic tank intact (no melting holes)? Even if the tires are shot the rims (the rears especially) should have a bit of value to a guy doing a restore. Do you have any history on it? Any idea of the status of the Sundstrand hydro? Maybe try putting it up for sale as a whole tractor here on Redsquare for a couple weeks before you put the wrenches to her. Mike...........

If you're ever considering putting in radiant floor heating then now is the time to consider putting the tubing down into the floor even if it's a project down the road. LoopCAD has a free trial that I used to design all my loops and I was able to get it done before it expired. http://www.avenir-online.com/AvenirWeb/LoopCAD/LoopCADHome.aspx I plan on putting in an evacuated solar tube system to supplement my oil heating system.

Hi Steve, What an ambitious and exciting project! Post and beam barns are very beautiful. I hope you enjoy the process of building it. I have dreamed about doing what you are doing, but never seem to have the funds with two kids in college. Curious what materials will be on the exterior and roof, and also what you had in mind for lighting. There is a group where I live in CT called the Northford Timber Framers. I believe they build one barn per year. I think it is sort of a class for some of the new members. Northford is scattered with these beautiful barns. I'm looking forward to the pictures. I can fulfill my dream barn through you. (LOL) Best wishes and warm regards, Mike Martino

I don't remember if it was Facebook or red square. It was two hours from here. Was owned since new by the same man. He passed 6 years ago and it's been in the shed ever since. Never spent a night outside. I'll post pics after I get it cleaned up. I can't remember because in the last week I've been approached by two other guys that have tractors they want to sell. I met them at our local Flywheelers show. I can't keep it all straight. I'm going to run out if money soon. I'll have to borrow some from you. ;)

Same problem with my 701 steering wheel. The pin is so hard to get out. I've started to clean the hole in the pin with a small drill and remove all dirt and rust. Then I'm applying a strong loose nut and let it work for a couple of days... I'll try then

Being these engines have flat tappet lifters, and are air cooled, automotive oils are not equipped with the correct additive package for this configuration. The oil companies are focused on creating superior oils for roller cam valve trains, clean emmissions, and making sure any microscopic amount of oil burning does not harm the catalytic converters. This does not equate to the best formula for our old dinosaur technology engines. Diesel oils still have a great additive pack for our engines. If you want to run a 10w-30, there are companies that make a diesel oil. I would try that. Also if you want to learn about oil, try www.bobistheoilguy.com

Hey Denny. Yep, one owner 603. Can't wait to get it home and clean her up and see if she'll start.

The biggest problem is that with the steering wheels being made of plastic, when you try to back up the pin as you tap it out, the plastic hub will be damaged. I bought a cheap air hammer and a 1/4" pin punch. That's the one with a little on the end that fits into the center of the pin. Then the repetitious hammering of the air hammer moves the pin out without having to back it up. Then if the wheel is frozen to the shaft, the next part off the saga begins. Apparently the software here doesn't like my choice of words, so I replaced it with an image of the word.

Happy, happy, happy.

Looks great just have to keep plugin away.

Thanks everyone for the support and encouragement. We are still plugging along and it seems our momentum has slowed down. Last night we only had 4 club members and little progress was made. The kids are still having fun and am very thankful for their commitment to the project. The new goal will be to have the tractor done for my show. They will be able to display it and we will have the silent auction take place that afternoon on October 4th. Here are a couple pictures from last night. We are getting down to all the little things which really slow things down. Time to get cracking! **Note**. This is the Ohio tractor that is not currently getting a full makeover.

Sorry to bring up an old topic but I got a audio clip of the bird I spoke of and figured someone on here wpuld know it. It was about 5:45 in the morning. Later in the clip it changes its call

http://img.tapatalk.com/ d/14/07/30/5y3a4emu.jpg Some assembly required..

Great little 's they are... nice score there. Couple picts here to inspire you.

Nice find Jones welcome to the addiction!

Enjoy the country life every one can agree that growing up in the country is great I grew up on a 100 acre farm and love it. Best of all is hunting and riding around with the horse the cows get jealous of it.

Glad you are happy. I grew up in the country, retired, and did something very stupid...moved in a subdivision. I have been here for fifteen years, hated every minute of it, tried to sell for the last five, and want so bed to get out of this noisy mess. Congratulations my friend, you will be happy.

Scott Congratulations! I see your kids like it. I was lucky to grow up in the country and have always preferred it. Your kids will get much more quality outdoor time which is great. I see more Wheel Horses and implements in your future. I just mowed some of my trails tonight on my 25 acres.

Your front deck wheels will never touch the ground on level hard flat ground. The purpose of the front wheels is to stop scalping when mowing on uneven ground. Their name is an anti-scalp roller. The deck height is set by the back wheels on the deck. These are called your gauge wheels as they set the "gauge" or length of the grass after cutting. Its sounding to me like its fine and you're just worried over nothing. Now if 1 anti scalp roller hits and the other side doesn't on level ground, then your deck is tweaked and needs to be bent back and reinforced. I have heard of some of the side discharge decks doing this because the discharge side is wide open and not tied together. Some guys bend them back and weld round stock across the opening for support.

Growing up in the city of London was great as a young pup but give me the countryside any day. This Picture was taken thirty seconds ago from the balcony of my home overlooking the quatock hills in Somerset UK Congratulations on your move to the country Scott , I'm sure you are gonna have some wonderful times creating family memories in the countryside .

Since I started this obsession 2 months ago all I have been thinking about is the Winter stuff. This Winter I'll be concentrating on the Spring stuff. Yeah, I'm one of those who buys the Summer clothes in the Fall on clearance and the Winter clothes in the Spring also on clearance.

Thanks guys! I absolutely love it here! Almost all of the Horse's are mine. Now I am able to tuck them in each night! :)

You'll love the extra space. I know I do.

All the best Richard , looks like your part of the country got a little bit of rain . Have a gr8 day m8

Happy Birthday Richard!!!!

Have a happy Richard.

happy B day Bud

the eaton 700's do not roll freely like the 1100's do. there is a lever that is right behind the motion control lever that needs to be pulled up which will disengage the drive belt, then with the that lever up you have to push the motion control lever forward and it will allow the tractor to roll but it still wont roll easy. I have a 312-A and a 312-H and the H with the 1100 can be pushed with one hand without moving any levers. Now if you had the drive belt disengaging lever up but did not move the motion lever forward the tractor would not roll when off and would not move at all when started either, im guessing you know this and hope it wasn't something this simple. But either way it cant be a bad thing that you have opened it up and are cleaning it. Also I don't think the oil in the 700's ever needs to be changed. Good luck and keep us updated on what you figure out.

Let me say that I snooped around but didn't find quite what I was looking for . I warned you guys that the questions would come ....so here's the first one : My ball & socket tie rod ends are shot , now keep in mind my intent to have a solid working tractor with an impending resto on the horizon. Option 1 . I thought about breaking out the welder & putting a booger on the outer rim of the female part , but that would be short lived . Option 2 Are these (re)produced by anyone or is there a " universal " type available ? Option 3 A very cool & custom thing I may do down the road is : tap a S/S rod & add Heim joints ( with the correct S/S shoulder-bolts.) Or would these work ?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-Toro-Wheel-Horse-Tie-Rods-Ball-Joints-/320574148240?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa3b54e90 Enough babbling & speculation , Give me some feedback -- The centers are 9" & the studs on the balls are 3/8 " X 18 TPI ( I think ) Thanks fellas - Gene