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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/22/2014 in all areas
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4 pointsHi all, Picked up a c175 at an estate sale a couple of weeks ago. Has always been kept inside, and has 885 hrs. In really nice shape besides the hood, no rust pits, or dents in anything else. Runs perfect, and the hydro is good and strong. Was not running when i bought it, but just took a battery and a shot of starting fluid and it purred to life. Came with a blower, 48" deck, and weights/chains. The sale it was at was a really cool place. The guy used to run a wheel horse dealer, but sold all his stuff about 10 yrs ago, this was his personal tractor. He did still have a few engine parts left over that I picked up, but nothing really special. There were 3 barns packed with stuff, you could hardly walk through, it was fun to dig through everything. Anyways, here's my tractor, never thought I would buy a horse this new, but this one is a keeper and I really like it. It will be my new blower tractor. Someday I might even do a quick repaint on it, as it would be an easy one to do. Also, I believe it is brand new in this picture of it at the dealer....
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3 points30 days now until the LeSueur, MN Pioneer Power Show. Just wanted to pop this up on people's radars. This will our 7th year showing Wheel Horses at this show. Got to meet several members who made the trip for the first time last year, looking forward to seeing any of them back as well as catching up with all the regulars. As always... hoping for new faces as well. The Pioneer Power club has been very receptive to us showing Wheel Horses at their show, in fact, it's brought about a whole new contingent of garden tractor exhibitors outside the realm of the regular hit and miss gas engine crowd. All in all, it's been fun to be a part of growing a little bit of this show. Last year I posted the following info which some people said was quite helpful, so I'll include it here again. You can get official information and showground map off the website http://www.pioneerpowershow.com but that doesn't really show what you guys need to know. It's best to get in at the Alternate gate, in the parking lot. Go in , turn left and go about 100 feet. That's where we set up. Fill in along the building first, and then across the lane as needed. We're supposed to have the whole area, but some other brands often end up filling in across the street too. First, here's the location of the show grounds, just off Hwy 26 between LeSueur and Montgomery on 265th Ave, just a few miles north of LeCenter. (Click images for larger versions) GPS address 34605 265th Ave, Le Sueur, Mn And here's the actual grounds.....One thing to remember, as you look at this map, North is to the left, East is up. Looking forward to another great show. Don't forget your lawn chairs!!
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3 pointsBack in the 80's I had my black 79 Z-28 and the jacket. I was all set! (My wife was sittin next to me when I opened this thread and at first she thought that guy was me!)
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2 pointsI've started the rebuild of my RJ58 and the CBR32 sickle bar that fits it. I've been collecting parts for it for a few years so I thought I'd get started on it. I didn't take many pics of the tear down, mostly just close ups for reference. I've got the engine tore down and cleaned up, ready to go to the machine shop. This one will get bored .010 and the crank will be turned .010. I got the parts for the engine today so I'll be able to take it to the shop this week. While it's at the machine shop I'm going to have them bore and tap the exhaust port to 3/4" N.P.T. Any opinions on which rim is correct for the RJ would be appreciated I picked up new blades for the sickle at the show in Le Sueur last year, I finally got those changed. Now I need to get it and a bunch of small parts sent to be plated.
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2 pointsI picked this 854 up last fall, it had a valve stuck in the engine and the oil pan gasket needed replaced as well as the points. I also had to replace the gas tank gasket, sediment bowl, fuel pump diaphragm and rebuild the carb. The tranny had water in it so I replaced all the bearings and seals, replaced the brake band lining and added a rear hitch. The seat was cracked so I picked up a good one at a show and I bought a back rest and had that recovered. It's got the wrong ignition switch in it so I've ordered a new one and most of the wiring has been replaced. The motor generator was junk but I had a good one on the shelf so I replaced that. The frame plate that bolts to the tranny was cracked, the hood stand bracket that bolts to the tool box was broken off along with one of the tabs that hold the belt guard on so I welded those things. This tractor was pretty rusty when I got it and I wanted to keep the original paint so I lightly sanded it just to knock the rust down a little then I wiped a coat of "salad dressing" on the tins. I really like the way it turned out, thanks for the idea Stevebo. The tires are cracked pretty bad so I may replace those some day but other than that I think this ones done. This may be the best running tractor I have.
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2 pointsMaking a little more progress in between the other projects I have going. The steering sector needed a bit of work. As I mentioned, the ball joint on the original drag link had been welded into place. I ground it off and after getting some of the temper out of the weld I was able to get it re-tapped. Because it must have stripped out in the past (hence the weld) I didn’t know if I could get a good threaded hole for the new drag link I made. I think the weld helped me out here. It was a good fit but not perfect. I used Loctite 271 and after it set up it seemed fine but I decided to drill it for a roll pin for added strength. I think it will be fine. The steering pinion roll pin was a bit worn so it got replaced with doubled up roll pins. Then it was on to the hood stand. A picture of what I had is in post #39. I’m not too good at this type of metal work but I had an idea and I think it came out pretty good. The torched area filled in pretty good. The left ‘dog ear’ for the hood was cobbled up when that section was torched out. I ground the bottom tab free and reconnected it. Both ears needed straightening and that came out pretty good too. I’ve been test fitting everything as I go so I left the steering rod and hood stand in primer knowing I would mess it up some. I think I’m ready to do the final sanding and make it red. We’re leaving on vacation next week and I want to get them painted before we go so they will have dry time without my temptation to mess with things too soon. The other parts (lift arm, pedals, etc.) are ready to install once I’m done with the hood stand. I haven’t done anything to the front axle or the wheels yet. The wheels won’t take much because they are in pretty good shape. Just some sanding and a fresh coat of paint will make them look great. I’m kinda dragging me feet on those because I’m not worried about making it a roller yet and I’m hoping I come across some ags for the rear, maybe even 23-8.50’s. When we get back home I’m probably going to do the tool box and fenders so I can get things put together on top of the transmission. IDEA!! As I was taking these pictures I thought I’d post an ad in the wanted section later this afternoon. There’s a few things I need for this tractor and I’ll list them. This is really for the folks that live in the northern Indiana area. I’ll be up there the first week in August and if by chance somebody has something I need that they would part with I could pick it up rather than dealing with shipping. Details later today in the wanted section.
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1 pointThe title say''s it all really. I hope some of you will find this video handy.
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1 pointI have been curious about having a tractor with a loader on it. I decided that what I really wanted was a four wheel drive unit with a loader so I passed on a number of Wheel Horse tractors with loaders. Then, this Kwik-Way loader showed up on eBay and not too far from me. I bid on it and won the auction for $869.03. I figured I could find out how well they work without having to lay out a lot more money. I have a 1997 520H with the heavy duty swept front axle and gear reduction steering that it will eventually go on. In the mean time I mounted it one of my C-175 Automatics just to see if it even worked. Well it does work and it is a nice set up. Things I ran into are the following. 1. The tolerances are very tight and a little extra paint made it hard to install. I had to scrape some excess paint off to get the front loader support piece to fit into the front tachmatic unit. The tight fit is a good thing since there will be no slop when using the loader. The fit to the tractor is excellent and the weigh box attaches to the rear of the loader frame under the tractor. 2. The pump belt runs very close to the PTO harp and I had to use a bungee cord to keep it from rubbing. I may be able adjust the pump to get a little more clearance. 3. The top hinge points are worn but that is not a problem for now. I may have the holes redone over the winter. 4. The pistons all leak down a little but not bad enough to interfere with getting some serious work done. 5. The traction of the rear turf tires and the lack of differential lock did give me some problems backing up a small incline with a load in the bucket. 6. The steering is not the easiest with the standard C-175 front end. The 520H with gear reduction should be much better. If I were to do it again I would pay more for a unit in a little better condition. It also has a lousy paint job on it. Now that I have this loader I will use it and hold out for a four wheel drive unit at a later date. Here are some pics.
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1 pointWell we have it on good authority that there will not be a Show in Charlotte, MI this year. So Denise and I are planning on going to the above named show. We are hoping many of out Wheel Horse friends can find the time to attend as well. The dates are August 7th-10th at the Lagrange 4-H Fairgrounds Lagrange, IN. We are told there are camping spots are available and that there are hot showers on the grounds also. I have attached a show poster for your convenience, hope to see you there. David& Denise 2014 Lagrange Show.pdf
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1 pointI got home from work yesterday and saw this on CL. Non running C-125 for $150 about 15 minutes away. Nice seller who pulled the ad after I hung up. only for sale for 18 minutes. trashed seat,fender pan, no muffler. plow and hitch retro fitted from the older style, tire chains. turns over and tranny oil good. Of course, all I saw was the rear wheel weights!!! got it all for $125. plan to sell or part out the rest Of course the wife was out of town and now how do I explain this ???
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1 pointNeeded some room in my shop so I sold my 1982 Suzuki and a Toro Bronco yesterday. Looked around and saw I had too much empty space so I started doing the Craig's list thing again. Scored another Wheel Horse 416H in really nice condition from the original owner. Been garage kept it's whole life. $400.00 and no holes in the deck but needs a battery. That's three Wheel Horse 417 tractors in two months. 2H's and an 8 speed. Will have photos tomorrow. I don't think my wife understands me.
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1 pointHere's a little update on the 57. Sunday I put the engine back together as a short block. It ended up just getting new gaskets/seals, a valve job and a new set of rings/ the cylinder honed. It should be a good engine as there was nothing wrong with it before I tore it apart. I got the shroud/hood done and ready for paint. Also, made a new speed selector rod and started making a speed selector arm, just have to pick up a piece of bar stock. Picked up a repop belt guard for it at the show, it is going to take some work to make it nice, but its better than nothing. I have a couple more brackets to finish sanding, and still have to fill some rust pits on the lift lever, but this is getting close to a last batch of paint. I don't see it being an issue on finishing this for the show in september. Anyways, here's a couple photos. Thanks, Jake
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1 pointYou are getting voltage into the ground system somehow. It's either a grounding problem or a 12V wire shorted to ground somewhere enough to put voltage on the frame. If you're getting 17 volts with it running I would suspect the problem is before you get to the regulator. Check the wiring closely and check the grounds to the regulator and generator. It could also be the generator or regulator itself shorting voltage through it's casing to the frame. The meter going crazy when you get close without the probe touching is because the meter is picking up emitting votage, there is actually an electrical field around the tractor. I would't mess with it if you or the ground is wet because, well you know why... This is indeed an odd one.
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1 pointDon, is she really going to notice another red Wheelhorse? Sent from my tractor seat.
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1 pointSteve, I'm Craig 's surrogate older brother and you 're my surrogate older brother! Hello Kitty was way easier than the rims! Time to dust off my micrometers
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1 pointI have the plastic replacements.$55 plus shipping.$144 list price .I can ship or I will be at the Jones MI.swap meet Aug1-3.or LaGrange IN. The next weekend.
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1 pointLegal as all get out as long as the mare is in your shed! The Ms. will also need a lawn vac with pink canvas, pink snow plow, a snowblower that is bright pink, of course the seat, yep, nice pink cover of course! What ever the lady wants (hope she gets the WHA (Wheel Horse Addiction) she gets!
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1 pointMake sure you pull off those rubber floor boards and do a thorough cleaning under them. Be careful with the plastic "nails" that hold them in place-you will want to reuse them. I have found that all kinds of dirt gets trapped under them and with moisture will cause the foot rests to rust. Hopefully yours are OK. If not, that is what Rustoleum is for! Nice score BTW.
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1 pointNice tractor! That sounded like a good way to spend the day. I had the TransAm jacket when Smokey and the Bandit was the big and I decided I need a TransAm - 4 to be exact.
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1 pointSteve... give that man a camera, a lawn chair and a lemonade! Wish I wasn't so far away, I'd love to help. Sounds like an awesome project and a lot of fun to be had. Like the old Wheel Horse ads say.... Get more done-Have more fun!
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1 pointMike- Not sure who you are calling the King (your Economy?) however there will be loader here to load up the carts with gravel.
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1 pointIt's Gene BTW , And not stuffing them , I use about 1/2 for chilli for the winter , The rest get saved for home-fries , to add to sandwiches etc... All my close friends get a small baggie in the fall .
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1 pointI am trying to envision a pink 416??? Seen a lot of Pink Rangers but a pink 416? Is that even legal Tankman?
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1 pointthere really isn't a short-cut to this repair. As I said before, examine the hubs inside and examine the axels. I have replaced axels & hubs quite a bit,and your better off doing it correctly in the long run. I mentioned the bearings because they can be worn and that leads to a leaky seal too. However, I have been advised not to drive the old bearings inward, could do some damage! Sorry about that! I guess it all depends on how "good " a job you want to do, or if it's a quick fix just to be able an drive the tractor?
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1 pointDenny showed me this one at the Oregon show and i gotta say if he had been away from it long enough i would have worked out a way to smuggle it out of the show area and on my trailer...... very nice original tractor there, definitely one to have.....
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1 pointDecided to check out this show with Jason and I have to say that ..It was a really nice show! A great variety of several brands of garden tractors with good food available and very friendly people . Might plan on attending this show again next year. Here are a few random pics I took.
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1 pointWorkin on my gas tank today, I needed to extend the filler neck a half inch or so. I unsoldered the neck, then cleaned the tank and removed all the J B Weld on the bottom of it. This tank hasn't leaked while I've had it but it must have at one time. With my little propane torch I ran some solder into the seam around the tank to fix any leak that was there. Next I needed a 1-5/8" O.D. pipe to extend the neck, the only thing I could find that diameter was a 1-1/2" copper street elbo at Menards. I cut about an inch off of it and soldered the neck to it then soldered that into the tank.
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1 pointIf you need the whole 3-piece fitting, don't get it from Kohler, you will pay many times more than they cost if you by them from the OEM manufacturer. The fitting is called a Vibra-Lok fitting. Made by Parker Hannifin. Part # 68VL 3-2. It comes with the male fitting, the female nut, and the rubber gasket. All for about $4.00.
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1 pointI'm going to use stainless hardware when I put this back together and found a young man here in town that was able to make this shoulder bolt for the idler pulley on my sickle bar from a piece of stainless I had laying around. He tinkers in his garage when he's not working, amazing in a town of less than 3000 that someone can do stuff like this. I think it'll add a nice touch to my project.
