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I just picked these tri ribs up via trade. I've wanted ribs for a while because when I cut grass and its a little damp the grass was lodging into the treads and they wind up falling off like a recap leaving clumps. I'm also hoping these will cut down on the clippings that wind up on the flywheel screen. With the forward swept axle with gear reduction the steering is now totally effortless. My C-161 looks kinda small in comparison!

Here are some pics of a couple WH's that I have used WD40 and 4 ott- 0000 steel wool on for paint restoration. The first one is a 1967 Model #857 that I cleaned half of the hood to demonstrate how much paint is hiding under the rust. The 2nd machine is my early production 1955 RJ35 that was pretty much totally fried with rust. I couldn't see any red paint no where on this old girl. The after pics are quite amazing to see how much red paint is underneath the rust! So just spray the machine with WD40 and lightly rub it down with 4-0000 steel wool, that is the finest abrasiveness they make and I don't use any other size! So I hope this will help out guys who don't want to restore a nice original condition WH but just leave it in as found condition!! I think they look just fine the way they turn out with just a good cleaning. You can keep the oiled look on it year round with a few shots of WD40 later in the year too. I usually wipe it down with a towel type of rag just to keep it dry to the touch.

I saw this Charger 12 with the rare white wall tires at a show here in Ohio a few years ago,,,thought I'd share the photo..

Took a Zero tun weight that I got in a $10.00 lot at the Mansfield Pa. auction, a clapped out Mule Drive I got at the Big Show and Presto! a snap on 18 lb. frt weight!

I bought 100 ball bearings from McMaster I don't even bother to look for the stupid little detent balls when they shoot out and roll away!!!

Just apply a jumper wire a shown in the pic below. This will bypass all switches and possible bad connections from the wiring harness. If jumpering the Battery (+) post to the STARTER post cranks the engine, then try the jumper in the pic below. If the engine doesn't crank with the trigger terminal jumpered, the starter relay is bad.

Final update on this thread, made a new gasket and reassembled the whole unit. I'm pretty pleased with the way it works and can't wait to build it into bendy and test it Here's a short video of the bits as they went together and the diff locker in action ...I also found time to fire up my synthesisers and do a cheesy soundtrack :)

Here is a try at the picture. I like the red wheels with the hubcaps! Just add some streamers!

Hi All I just became the owner of a 1990 Toro 312-8 Wheel Horse garden tractor which has been sitting in a shed for about 10 years after (I believe) being soooo abused by a teenager mowing lawns for the summer. Have downloaded wiring schematics for this model and still can't seem to find one that looks like what I am dealing with. I am beginning to think that maybe somehow the idiot messed with the wiring when it quit on him. From what I have been reading there are lots with almost the same problem. The only way I can get this one to start and not blow the fuse is to totally unhook the wiring (which then the battery doesn't get charged) but at least it runs and mows great. To shut it off I have to choke the engine ...smh This seems to be a great place to run this problem by the wheel horse gurus. Hopefully someone can help Stoney

Careful... less is more here.

Some photos of the beginning Started with two front wheels and axle The difference is remarkable. It is very disconcerting at first to see exposed metal beside paint. I stopped a few times to makes sure I was only removing dirt. But as you can see from photos removing some paint is inevitable. Actually looking at the photos now I see I removed more than I thought I had. Think round two will be somewhere less conspicuous while I refine the technique. It feels a lot like polishing furniture Things I learned on my first attempt {in hopes others will share} 1. never used compressed air. You remove more paint than dirt. 2. try not to scrub - which is hard especially when trying to remove caked on grease. More to follow. Also, is that really a grease nipple on the front wheel? John

Not sure how rare they are but I believe they were called either a leaf vac or trac vac.

I have the engine running again! A local man re-bored the cylinder 0.010 over and reground the valve seats. I got a rebuild kit with piston, rings, rod, valve,s and gaskets an put all together, minus the balance gears. It started on the third crank - I guess it took some cranks to get fuel to the carb. All I need now is to tune the carb, and off I go! I appreciate the helpful hints provided.

Thanks AMC, I sent him a message.

Nice Geno... you should forward those to Karl, get them added to our smiley list.

Just had to make some -

http://www.redoyourhorse.com/wheel-horse-horse-a-holic-decal/

Its not going to have a tach a matic or anything from the bigger tractors really. In 1974 this would have been an A series tractor.

Take the differential apart.

Looks like my Hot Wheels from the 70's

...and what you gave her... priceless.

Maybe one of these 1973 8hp 4-Speed model 1-0274 1973 8hp 4-Speed model 1-0276 1973 8hp 4-Speed model 1-0277 Mower deck with counter clockwise spindle rotation Garry

Thanks for starting this thread about our show in Portage...it was great some of you were able to attend. Thank you I'm glad you enjoyed the show! This show has grown so fast its crazy. We have a Garden Tractor competition that is counted on Saturdays at 3:00pm. Whatever brand shows the most tractors becomes that years winner. Year number one John Deere won by showing two more tractors than Colt Case Ingersoll....Year Number two AC/Simplicity showed two more tractors again...so Colt Case and Ingersoll came in second Place again. That is probably why this year Colt Case and Ingersoll collectors came from everywhere, including Manitoba, Ontario, Kanas City, Kanas and all over the Midwest. I have been trying to draw in more Wheel Horse collectors but I did not know about this forum....Now that I have found you guys I will post the dates for next years show....I am excited to know that there will be more wheel horses at next years show.... will enough wheel horses be there to win the show in 2015? If any of you ever want any info my number is: 608-297-7400 Thanks, Bret

Do like your new Pro Keds Ken.

This is so cooooooool. I have a 350 Chevy engine been sitting in the shop on a stand for years, I really didn't need to see this...

Sounds good, I will get some of those made, I found the diagram for them. Thanks James

I think you'll need to use a wheel spacer between the wheels... that the carriage bolts go through to prevent that twisting from happening.

I dont remember exactly what it cost to build as I did some trial and error on how to get it attached to her. The finished product though is probably right around the $20 mark. The wheels and axle were donated from an old garbage can so this helped with the cost. Thanks all for the compliments. Mark

I think that everyone should get a chance to play with the detente balls and spring...push those things together and try to get a shaft by them...while sliding out an Allen wrench and keeping the setup together.

No worries all I'm never going to pain it Last photos going up now The first in a long line of questions... So WD40 to remove grease and grime and very fine steel wool to??? What's the steel wool supposed to do? Get off the older dirt without damaging the finish? I would have thought anything even mildly abrasive would start removing what little paint is on it. John

Well, I just got a quote on the 700-015 Eaton Hydro...it is still available for purchase. They have to manufacture one. Total cost for the pump is $627.47, with PA tax. This is through Motion Industries, New Castle, PA directly through Eaton.

This is such an exciting thread! So much cool stuff! can't wait to see what else pops up!

Well I've alway's wanted the post hole auger for the GT14.

Really there can be so many qualifiers... do you want Wheel Horse branded implements, or include allied attachments (like the Danuser Forklift for GT14?), or include additional aftermarket non-allied attachments (like the Bachtold Fenceline Mower?) I would say let's just get some posted up and see where it goes from there. These are pretty hard to come by. It's far from the rarest though. I know of about 5 including mine. PTO-66 belly mounted Farm PTO.

That was quite a turnout. Thanks for sharing! Being so close to Deere's mothership, you expect to see a lot of weekend freedom machines. But the Case representation is really impressive. I guess being another Wisconsin operation might have something to do with it. Allis and Simplicity too. Huh, I guess WI is quite the garden tractor mecca. Steve

Yeah Craig, some of my favorite photos are of the Rodent on the Horse. She is my little darling, and I love her to pieces. Her mother (my daughter), is such a kill-joy though. Overly protective, she got on to me for riding Addie around the yard too fast. Was running just above idle in 3rd high, just fast enough to bounce around a little. Rodent has a blast. Of course I hold onto her pretty tightly on my lap, make very sure she doesn't touch anything hot, and keep the keys in my pocket. She has almost figured out how to start the thing.

Finally getting started on some of the walk behind parts!

While looking for a loader for my 414-8, I found Ford LGT 165 with a Ark loader. It has foor pedals, which are great. The hydro on the Ford groans a lot under load, which makes me nervous, but have heard a lot of them do. The fluid is clean, so holding my breath. I really can't imagine mounting and unmounting the loader to use. I use mine for small jobs, andwouldn't be worth the trouble to swap it. Glad I have the 414-8 for mower and other uses, with a winch mount on front and back. FYI, the WH is much easier to work on.

​ I'm thinking...OSHA would not approve.

I've been busy today!!! My plan works, but boy is it tight in there, the diff has to go in one way and I have an inch to get the additional bits in. turning one side down to make room for the bolts the selector cage all together in the lock position I've started work on the selector fork and slider, now it's getting tighter. It's a good job I don't need all the gears

Yes sir... I do it all for you guys.

Mount it on an Xi. You won't be disappointed!