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Here's some nice pictures of my 520 and 416. I was going to use the 416H for a FEL project but decided it was to nice of a tractor so I made it into a mowing machine....

guys and girls if you receive something from other members and you are happy with it,would you please pay up.To the people that like to stiff others how would you like it if you sent a product and never received any money.We are all here for the same reason I would assume so pay up please.

Not sure what this is in reference to, but as a reminder here's the classified rule on what this may be about:

Pics like this make me angry thinking what a shame it is the Wheel Horses are not manufactured anymore. My Grandson will never know how it feels to walk into a dealership and see all the new tractors and attachments....................... Sorry I started my post like that. The pics are terrific!!! I need a neighbor like you

That.....last....picture....is.....just............................EPIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CALENDAR MATERIAL!!!!!!!!!!

Well I have been busy since the show I didn't unpack the trailer until yesterday, I didn't pick up a whole bunch of stuff but I did PU a WH Cart. I had been using my rare 50's WH dump cart that is in excellent shape (and I want it to stay that way) I picked that up for $100.00. Below in the Box is a new old stock 56" plow that goes on a zero turn. I already have a brand new old stock A frame and I plan on doing a special SNOW PLOW modification project in the future to add to my snow removal team. Ya cant have too many tractors to fight Ole Man Winter! I picked that up from Dave's Tractor World for a $100.00 dollar bill. I have an old lawn ranger that I need to fix up for the grandkids that I picked up last year for $125.00 buckaroos. The Engine runs like crap and incidentally is Squonks favorite. And since what Squonk says makes sense, I wanted to honor him, and buy two more of his favorite engines so I have plenty of parts to fix the ole girl up. I picked up a seat cover from Dave Fun Engineer for the ole ranger. As far as what else I purchased it was just a bunch of smalls, parts and maintenance pieces. At the Raffle drawing MJ won us a set of Cart Wheels And the best part is I brought home a bunch of laughs, and memories from all of you that I met which made the trip extra special. We had a great time and we thank you all. ~Duke & MJ

That's it... my 10'x10' is going back.

Howdy there Tuna. I have, in the past, worked as a "line technician" at a couple dealerships for Chrysler and Ford, so a sick engine is pretty obvious to me. On this Kohler, all you have to do is remove the dipstick, and the smoke and "putt-putt" of blow-by is readily discerned. The crankcase vent is clear, so this outgassing is excessive. Too, she uses about a 1/8 quart of oil per hour. Lastly, and I am not all that familiar with Kohlers, it seems she should have more juice. There is also some blue smoke during operation. Given the age of the tractor, and that it appears to have never been overhauled, I figure it is time. Wear that I have noted in the clutch pedal, and all of the other linkages suggest many, many hours of use. The PTO bell rod had to be welded and dressed down to size by me recently due to wear. The hood hinge pin was cut nearly in two. This isn't a low hour tractor, just one that has been relatively well maintained, and stored inside. The green critter is my 1949 Ford F2 (3/4 ton). Dad taught me how to drive in that truck when I was 13. Be 56 in September. He gave it to me in 1982, and I have drove it (mostly) since then. Drive it back and forth to work now, and since the kids are all grown, have started seriously doing resto work on it. Mechanically it is near perfect, but the body looks awful. All original with a flathead 239 V8, Armstrong steering, drum brakes, and concrete shocks. I use it to haul the Horse out to my country property to mow a couple times a month. The drive is 50 miles one way. Have to set stakes to see if the truck is moving, but Hey!, it gets me and the tractor out there and back without so much as a cough. Just takes a bit of time. Wouldn't be afraid to drive it to California. Truck would do the trip OK, but I don't figure I would live long enough to get the job done. This thing is SLOW.

This sentence caught my eye, and I had to smile. You're talking about a 29-year-old tractor, and yet almost everyone here would indeed consider it one of the newer Wheel Horse tractors. Nice work on this one so far, just curious about a couple of things... How's the engine run right now, and why does it need an overhaul? In your third photo, what's the green vehicle that your tractor is squaring off against?

I almost got run over several time by the same couple of youngsters while at the show. Being new to the whole thing I just moved on. Some of those tractors had big engines in them with the governors removed and foot throttles. That's OK if the driver has a bit of discipline and is careful but when they want to hear the rumble of the engine and show off a bit it is a bit scary. I was thinking of the vicarious liability on the show sponsors if someone got hurt.

So I guess my question is, why would anyone spend $100K on a car, when in the end it only takes you from point A to point B?

White River Valley Antique Association 30th Annual Antique Show September 4-7 Elnora, Indiana Feature: Oliver Venue: Daviess County Fairgrounds, Hwy. 57, 3 blocks east of Hwy. 58 Contact: Bill Bays, 812-345-0064 Website: www.wrvaa.org

Just picked up this 1976 Simplicity 7013H for lawn mowing duties.

thats cool you can run a blower and then use a back blade to scrape up the excess snow

I tried the double blades on a 30" single blade mower and could not keep them at 90 degrees but that is a long blade. I cut about a 4" disc out of 10 or 12 gauge metal with a center hole for the spindle. This goes between the blades positioned at right angles. Bend 2 sides sticking out down for the bottom blade and the other 2 sides sticking out up for the top blade. This is just explaining how it works. I actually made the bends in a break so it could get a good tight fit to the blade sides. It works well. Garry

id# 71-08K801-6214.just got it home a little while ago.it runs great like my 1054. a little dirty but its been sitting in a garage for 3 yrs.paid $75. bucks for it o havent had a chance to take pics.tomorrow i will

Derby , huh ? Well , howdy neighbor !

That 416 was yours I made it into a mower instead of a loader...

Shawn.....EFFIN' WOW dude! What a great picture. Real nice tractors bro! I must come down sometime soon!

Great looking tractors!

those are great tractors

Nice collection Love that pump!!

It got one of these at ****'s Sporting Goods for less than $50 on sale http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2935027&cp=4406646.4413993.13243208.32193776 You can get in red if that's you're thing and if it breaks, throw it out an get another. I have had this one an another like it for about four years and they have held up fairly well.

Cutlas3391, That is one awesome collection you have there. Enuff to make any collector go! ~Duke

My wife has owned two Subaru's since 1997. She wouldn't trade hers for anything.

Got ya. I'm sure we even talked about this when I had mine apart. I know I've replaced a few seals and had to do the picking thing to get the old ones out but it's been over 15 years ago. I guess I assumed that wheelhorse66 may have had the three piece when he said 'old 4 speed'. It's too bad the 9815's won't work in the three piece. You can get six or seven of them for the price of one 1257.

OK, so the deck (36" side discharge) on the 1974 B-100 needs some work, which will be added expense and time. Center pulley assembly bearing is shot, the blades are pretty much gone too and the belt is on it's last legs. I will eventually do some repair but I have a question on deck interchangeability. Will the deck on my 1978 C-81 (36" rear discharge) fit the '74 B-100 - without any real modification? They are not at the same location (about 4 hours apart) so I can't do a side by side comparison. Whether or not they are interchangeable I still will either repair or replace the deck. Anybody in the Port Huron Michigan area have a deck that would fit the B-100 without a lot of work? Or parts to repair the one I have? Like most, I'm not looking to spend a ton but would like to have an operational deck for both tractors. Thanks gang.

My 953 is one of my favorite tractors I have. I've modified mine a little with a 8 speed 8pinion trans.

If you have the chance to buy one, I would. I have a 1054 and love the tractor. As far as parts, I have yet to break anything (and I have really beat on the machine) Most 953, 1054, and 1054A parts should he interchangeable. There are a few unique parts between them but I haven't had any issues. Its a great machine if the price is fair. Justin

this is impressive stuff cutlass. Both tractors are marked 416 though? The gas pump is extremely cool, is it operational? it would be crazy cool if that's how you gassed up your unbelievable herd. which brings me to my next comment - that is one hell of a horse stable you have there!!! I am local in Lancaster would you be a potential contact for used parts? At the moment I have a 312-A with a smoking 12hp magnum which I intend to rebuild in the coming months. If I could find a good used 12,14, or maybe even a 16hp magnum I would definitely be interested. If not no problem I just wanted to put that out there. Have fun with all your awesome stuff and thanks for sharing!! Paul

Look at the pinned thread at the top of this forum. That will get you SKF seal numbers and bearing #s that any auto parts store should be able to get. You could also try motion industries or any local bearing supply house.

That is a great idea and what I would have done if I were redesign the 3pt set ups we did. Use of a plate similar to this that attaches to the tractor. I would try to make it a quick release to the tiller attachment point.

I noticed some pin holes in the roof of my canopy at the show. I was admiring Craig's new Coleman canopy he got at Wally World. I tossed my old one and headed on down and picked up a Coleman 12' x 12' $149

It had the eaton 7! I was able to resolve the issue by removing the vent plug. It went down very slow. It took around 6 hours and runs excellent! Also changed the rear end fluid and it was bone dry! Nothing came out. He is one very happy 252. Thank you very much for the help! I used a shop vac to clean all the garbage from around the seat pan and deck and greased all the grease fittings. I also have a 520-H that is having a problem driving. Within the next week or 2 i will be posting another post about wondering how to fix it. Im glad i came to the right wheel horse website!

here is a point eliminator for guys who didn't know! just one wire and a ground and you can eliminate your points if there is an internal problem! kohler part # 257 57 10s Also here is some updates we ordered for a customer: http://www.kirkengines.com he ordered the billet covers pretty nice!

Have read your posts, and examined the photos you have put up on your recent acquisition. That is a fine, one-owner tractor there. Noticed the repainted muffler right away. Want to repaint mine, but haven't found a new gasket yet. Went down to NAPA, and they said it wasn't available???? Surprised me. As for being "tinny", I have considered actually using a micrometer and comparing the sheet metal between the newer tractors and an older one. Outside of the tin, there is about zero difference in frames, trannys, etc. I have wondered that the tinny feeling may be only the fact that the hood area is so much larger on the 3-500 series machines, thus has more flex. I am pretty sure the belt guard and fender pans are all the same gauge of steel. In the day, even Wheel Horse must have felt the new hoods were flimsy, as they added the "V" brace behind the grille.

thanks matt for the rims!

JD: I bought one last week and painted the muffler, changed the oil and put a new plug in it! A 1990 to 1993 model but that same basic tractor as yours! I always thought these models were a little more "tinny" than the earlier Wheel Horse tractors (I mow with a 1975 B-80 model like Marv's and 36 inch rear discharge deck). I am now converted though and find these classic 312's to be a great working tractor!

Thanks folks for the compliments! To get about any Horse presentable, except for the real basket cases, only requires a plan, not that much money, and some persistence. When I bought the 312, I felt it was basically a decent ride. I tried to focus on the major things when I was looking at it. How was the motor and tranny? Unusual noises, odors, stains, etc. I try not to get too wrapped up with appearance items, as they can often be replaced easily, and inexpensively, at least on the newer tractors. After I determined the machine would most likely get me through the mowing season this year, and nothing appeared to be seriously amiss, I bought it and brought it home. When home, I developed a three-step program: Near-term, Mid-term, and Long-term goals. Near-term: Wash completely and get a good close look at EVERYTHING. Service all fluids (replace), check tires and inflation, grease and lube all points, check belts, air filter, and examine deck. To get the 312 up to where it mowed pretty good required replacing the blades. Outside of the maintenance items, the blades were the only real expenditure. By the time the first photos in this thread were taken, all of the previously mentioned tasks had been done. I now had a mower that would likely get me through the season. Didn't look all that great, but it was serviceable. Mid-term: This was actually a pretty simple list to compile; do everything except the engine overhaul and body/repainting/new decals. The mid-term items can be strung along as time and funds permit. Dust caps missing? Steering wheel button gone? Put a little dough back, and get in touch with Glen Pettit. Leveler rod on deck missing and replaced with all-thread, give Kelly a call. Try to do a little something every week. After a while, it begins to add up, and your machine really starts to look good. I wanted taillights, so one afternoon, I went down to the local auto parts purveyor and picked out a set of side marker lights for about $8. An hour or so of wiring later, I had lights. Stupid little things broke or missing can be really aggravating, and make a tractor look like crap. The steering column missing, missing headlight bezels, missing knobs, etc. Most items I have replaced only cost a few dollars each. The two most expensive single items I have purchased for this tractor are the blades at $42, and the seat at $55, the rest was nickel and dime. Lastly on the mid-term items, get your tractor CLEAN! I mean clean. Then polish/wax, whatever, to make it gleam. My 312 is a worker, but I figure if I keep it as near spotless as possible, I am more likely to make sure I keep the important things maintained and in good order. Besides, I just find it more enjoyable to get on a machine that I can be proud of. No need to go over the long-term items, as they have already been covered. Suffice it to say that, any long-term tasks are ones that... well, take a long time to do. Engine, tranny, and bodywork fall into this category. SO there you have it, my three-step program for a nice tractor, and on a budget to boot.

And here is how she looks now. These photos were taken this past Saturday. I have gotten all of the loot I garnered from the Big Show installed, the new steering wheel button and shift knobs from Glen Pettit (thanks Glen!), and the near NOS seat. The seat is exactly like the original, sans the horsey logo. I had just washed and waxed too. Quite frankly, I am very pleased. Even my neighbors are pretty impressed at how good it looks, and are surprised it is almost 30 years old.

Some more pics in action and finished product.

Top of the line Subaru Outback for me!

Here you go Craig. Still have to finish welding the wheels but you get the idea.Also got the grille sitting where it will be.I want to try and figure out how to make the hood tilt with the grille staying put.Dont know if I can make it tilt forward or maybe make it open like a car hood.

This is an outstanding show. Really big, but smaller than Portland. Have gone off and on for over 20 years. Keeps getting bigger and better every year. Last time I went, the garden tractors were pretty well represented. Lots of demonstrations, events, and displays. Even have a small vintage machine shop, all flat belt driven. Food stands everywhere.

Boonville is/was a nice show. Used to go with my cousin and his wife some 20 years ago. Very friendly folks.

Well I realize there are not a lot of us down here in Florida and its kind of far to head out to most of the northern shows. We have the Florida Flywheelers close to where I live. This show is great but is mostly John Deere, IH and others with Wheelhorse being scarce. I would like to have something like what is happening in Pa somewhere down here. I have seen more members on here that are in Fl but we are kinda spread around. It would be great to have something centrally located. I wouldnt care if it started out just meeting up at someones house, grilling some meat and talking tractors. Or....... We could all plan on the flywheelers or Zephyrhills show and get a couple of spots together. Just some ideas. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks, Richie4077092110

I too attended the Evansville show.....I was set up right next to Larry & Judy's Raider! Here are a few photos that took. Here is my 875 with my wife's ride!

One thing I almost always do is use a 4 x 4 block of wood to rest against the side of the mower deck when removing or installing a new blade (or sharpened old blade) and I change the bolt to a new one as the head on these is usually damaged or worn (no matter what grade but I use grade 8 bolts for hardness) . I usually use a hex socket but half inch with a longer breaker bar (you can always put a piece on pipe on the end) to remove and install the new bolt. Even when I buy older decks that have set out a long time this seems to work well. The wooden block helps for safety of your fingers when removing and installing.

@Gary - there were at least four different "reds" used between 1946 and now - and that doesn't include formula variance, mixing error, application technique, and difference between brands/suppliers. Modern aersol paints may be close, but none are an exact match to the actual paint used by Wheel Horse and/or Toro. (and that includes their own touch-up paint) Choosing the "proper" red for a Wheel Horse is much like throwing a hand grenade...... all you need to do is get it close.