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I was re-arranging some tractors today, so I decided to take a family pic. Well I had to leave 7 out of the family portrait due to yard space and their current status. Enjoy!

It was this day 70 years ago that thousands of US, Canadian , British & other European counties gave their young lives for each & every one of us to live today. On the beaches of France on June 6th 1944 thousands of young lives were lost I thank all of those that gave the ultimate sacrifice for me ,my family & friends the gift of life Thank you ,http://youtu.be/L6EsjZYInjo

When I was a kid, flat tires on the bicycle were a regular occurrence. We went to the Western Auto store, got a tire patch kit, fixed the tube without even taking the tire off the rim. The great thing about using a bicycle hand pump was that the air chuck clipped onto the stem, preventing it from getting away. Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk

I have installed many of these and learned the hard way of some things not to do. We always install our tubes by hand with just basic tools (screwdrivers and a vise). I like all of the suggestions here, and have one more that I don't think was mentioned. I always leave the valve core out when blowing up the first time, that way if for some reason the valve stem slips through my fingers or tool, I don't have to pop the tube to get the stem back out. Like someone else advised, this also helps get the wrinkles out of the tube before I blow it up for the last time. This has worked for me!

I take em down the street to the tire shop. If they ruin a tube putting it in they pay for another one!

I finaly got a disc harrow, it was really rusty because it had been in the forrest for years.. covered whit some steel/roof plate's so ill just had to restore it so i can have it behind my suburban for show's etc.. so im prolly not going to put it in the dirt.. so here are a few pict of it.. Time to pull it apart to start clean it up and then i E tanked it and sanblasted it.. and primed the disc on it disc is getting the final paint and here are the other stuff primed and ready for red paint!! And finaly a few pict of how it is now whit new paint and stickers. hope you guys enjoy it!!

Hi, Wish I'd heard about this place a long time ago. I'm an old f*rt in frequently frozen Minnesota -- not too far from Hugo and other major metropolitan areas. Unfortunately, I'm going to be moving in the near future (no real choice), and I have to unload all of my Toro/WH stuff. All from the K series era. So, over the next few days, I'll be setting up an ad although I have no real idea of what it's worth. Some of it's pretty rough, but it could have just the widget you've been looking for. I do plan to keep visiting now that I've found this place -- maybe I can even provide a little help based on my many mistakes hj

My son in law's Mother just dropped this off at the house for me. Her husband's Father recently passed away and this brochure was found in his files.

Just play picked up this project last night. Everything seem to be there. The previous owner lost interest he also threw in a 10hp Kohler for a john Deere and a nos 10hp Kohler block never been assembled still has the assembly lube on the cam! Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

Naw, you are not cured yet!!!....I was in same condition a few months ago...said it was time to reverse the trend...BUT a 520H w/60" deck appeared on a local farm auction...I went and looked at it....went home and said "nope, I don't need any more WH's"...it was about 20 above on the day of the sale so I used that for an excuse not to go.....a good friend was going to the sale so I told him if the bid on the WH did not reach a certain number, throw in a bid for me..... Well....at least I walked away from it the first time I looked at it....so I guess I'm half-cured!!!... BTW the 520 does look pretty sharp in my shed after I put Terry's new set of decals on it!! So Mike, there is hope for ya...just don't let anyone else bid for ya~~

I was thinking maybe throw an RJ35 in the back then pull the boat...

You can do a wet and dry compression test. if you get a big increase with a squirt of oil it indicated bad rings. if its low with no increase you have worn valves.

if you go from a 7466 (8 speed pulley) to a 7443 (hydro pulley) you need an additional 2 inches in belt length to compensate. i have tried a 106496 and that is the right length with a hydro pulley on an 8 speed. i was going to go with that setup on my 416-8 build until i realized there is a very slight clearance issue with the belt as it passes under the hood stand right at the leading edge. there is a factory cut out there for clearance and it really isn't enough if you get some belt movement. i didn't want to clearance the hood stand on my 416 as id already spend considerable time getting it painted and on the tractor. the reason the belt is closer is because the belt position is raised slightly with the larger diameter pulley....... it would only take a little work but i didn't feel it was necessary to have the extra speed on this one. i did this mod to my c125 and there is details of that in my build thread on that tractor. its nice for cruising around the shows when you want to get somewhere quick. i also found out that the c125 belts are just slightly shorter than 3,4,500 series, 8 speed for 8 speed and hydro for hydro...... oh and the reason why a hydro belt is not long enough is the path it takes near the hydro isn't spread as much as the 8 speed, on the 8 you have the extra length taken up with the idler pulley pushing the belt out in more of a triangle shape, where as the hydros are more of a stretched oval. the clearance issue isn't really the belt touching, just for me it was too close to the hood stand. the belts sometimes move around a little and i didn't want any noises or banging around with the belts. ITS ANNOYING!!!!!!!!!

This is a 1952 Wolverine Wagemaker 14 ft boat. It spent most of it's life on lake Michigan then the original owner's nephew brought it back to the Scranton PA area where he used it for a few years then sold it to his neighbor who basically stored it in his garage for 10 years and never took it out. It came with the original 25hp Johnson with a rare electric start motor that runs great but needed the typical water pump, coils, condensor, carb clean etc. I have to thank my pal Kenb for "locating" this one for me. He was going to buy it but knew I was interested so we worked out a deal where I bought this one and he bought my Duratec. Ken also helped get this motor running and did the water pump. He gave me some tips on what paint to use etc. You are the man Ken!

Bill, I think you have enough information now, your tractor and I would appreciate it if you would put your kerosene/gasoline/matches away.

Also, try to use a chuck that will lock on to the stem.

I'll be buzzing around on my 1054. Not in the market for anything and wont be bringing anything to sell. I may pop a couple tractors up in the classifieds and offer to deliver to the show. Mike.............

I bought my push mower new in 2000 and I have never done an oil change. Granted, it's a two stroke Lawn Boy...only way to go. Too bad they're gross polluters.

Thanks again, Terry M, I hope to have some pics posted by the weekend. It has been out of the sun and weather for over 20 years, pretty good shape for the age

Google is your best friend. https://www.google.com/search?q=tire+tube+puller&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=RyeRU-LVL82ZqAb464HIDA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=887

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200614149_200614149?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Automotive-_-Tire%20Equipment-_-41005&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=41005&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=41005&gclid=CjkKEQjwqsCcBRDt7_Gts5a91YYBEiQAm-wYEdk8yqXbn9EZSZ1i65qYVHbfh4lo8xnDC54C_ZnEJv7w_wcB

Looks like a dealership... parked out there in your front yard.

I will be bringing my recently restored 603 (for sale maybe?) and maybe a Suburban to run the Friday night Dust Bowl...

This holds the valve in place while you install the tire. Remove this tool and HOLD the valve stem with 1 hand and air it up with the other hand!

I watched the video, the belt is walking perhaps because the rear pulley and idler are either not aligned or one of the bearings (likely the idler) are not running true. I suppose the bearing sin the PTO could be bad as well, but my money is on the idler in the back

You sir are a stand up guy. Few hundred bucks likely covered parts. You know what the tractor means to that boy. There isn't enough money. The picture of him sitting on it is priceless.

Here's an update pic of the little feller! Thanks for all of your nice comments! Proud of our great hobby! Keith

Thanks. The 310 is an 89. When I bought them I started looking them over until the guy told me the price. At that point I didn't even care if they ran. He told me $200 for the pair. I got them for 150. The 310-8 (I was told after paying) needed a starter solenoid and a battery. The true diagnosis is a safety switch, battery, deck belt, carb cleaned, tank cleaned and replaced gas shut off. runs awesome now

one of the most important aspects of dealing with an intermittent problem is to take every advantage of the opportunity to LOGICALLY TROUBLESHOOT the problem while the problem exists. If you start with "pushing this and pulling on that" style of troubleshooting, you may just mask the problem until next week when your getting ready for vaction, have to cut 8 inch tall grass and the problem comes back !! ARRRGGHHHH My suggestion would be to take a test light or multimeter and check for voltage at each major component in the 12 volt delivery wiring. Start by placing the testor on the battery + terminal - lite comes on - you know the testor is good move the testor to the inlet of the fuse holder - light on ? power is good to fuse light off ? wiring is suspect up to the fuse if fuse inlet has pwer then move testor to the fuse outlet - no light ? fuse or fuse holder is bad light is on ? then fuse holder may be good proceed in this fashion until the 12 volt power disappears. that is the problem area (or one of the problem areas) - fix the issue and proceed on witht the troubleshooting until all issues are addressed. again, I would take the opportunity to use the testor or multimeter while the problem is present and avoid troubleshooting soley by random parts replacement.

Good Job! Nothing ever follows me home, unless I leave a wad of green behind. Cats, dogs, and parasitic family members excepted.

Well I did some measuring and found my rear width from outside of tire to outside of tire was too narrow for my plow blade fender to work. I took my wheels off and cut the centers out and ground everything smooth with a flap wheel.I had two rim centers from two old wheels that I had saved for this very reason.I took the wheels and flipped them around because they are not the same inner diameter all the way through.I pushed in the centers and set them for 3.5" backspacing giving me a 6.5" lip on the front.Being the inside diameter is larger than the back,I will be able to use my wheelhorse hubcaps and they will set way back in the rim. I still had to narrow the plow 4" to get the tires to sit where I wanted them as to the edge of the fender. The part I cut off was rusted anyways so I didn't ruin a perfect plow..I hope I make John(wallfish) proud as his idea was fantastic.Here is where she sits now until I get it mounted.Please don't mind the messy shed.I am in the process of many things with cleaning up being one of them.