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Found this 414-8 suffering out in the weather with the hood up and no rear rubber. Stopped knocked and wrote a check, ran home got trailer. Worked on her for about 30 minutes and threw on some rubber. Then yes I mowed the yard. Im still not sure what was wrong with her, I threw on a push button to start it. Not a good idea I know but well I just had to see her run. I gave $250 for her she runs and mowed decent. Also put on a new choke cable the old one was rusted up and frozen. More pictures

Isn't it interesting... that the make of the tractor had to be mentioned. Probably serves to drive home the severity of the crime.

and then a secondary circuit check (I have to change the text to read 6000 to 10.000 ohms)

check the coil primary resistance

one method of performing an off tractor but "live" test of an ignition coil

Picked up a "like new" set of VEE BAR chains for $2 at the local action yesterday. A perfect fit on the 520 snow blower. Glad I raised the fenders and foot rests to get the xtra clearance.

My tribute to all of "nature's A students" that have succumbed to bullets or bad brakes ...

Best argument for operational seat safety switches ... wouldn't you say?

Best picture of them all Future red square member No but I would love to have one

Had he solved this he would go down in history as a true genius! If only he wouldn't have wasted time on that relativity thing.............

The guy would have got by with a misdemeanor if he shot a Murray or other "box store" mower.

Cool rainy day here 30 mile East of The Big Show. Good day to inventory what I'll be bringing on Thur. and Fri. I must leave Fri. night though. Gotta be in Southern Md. Sat morning for a Little League Baseball Tournament. See anything you might want, shoot me a PM and we can put a hold on it. Be safe traveling.....see ya there. Craig already has his name on the Brinly cultivator. Oh, I will only be bringing one of these.... probably the latest addition ... the 520.

As tragic as it is maybe the guy was a really bad shot...

First hand example. I purchased a 1976 B-80 brand new and on the dealers floor (Chandlers). The price was right. Yes, Wheel Horse advertised them being for a smaller yard, etc. Wheel Horse used both the transmissions in the B-80's that year. They also used both transmissions in the C-120 and C-160 that year. The main differences between the B-80 and the C series (in 1976) was the seat, low vs high and arm rests on the top models, the rear tire size, 22-750 12 vs 23-850 12, headlights standard on the C series and maybe a gauge or something. The rest of the tractor was identical. I installed a headlight kit right at the start, put 23-850's on it, a nicer seat, and ultimately a K-341 when I wanted the 8hp for an 854. It became a C-160. For 24 years I tilled, plowed, mowed a massive yard, pushed dirt and snow, blew snow and pulled things that I'd probably be afraid to now (at my old age). It was still in top shape when it was sold for our venture in full time RV'ing and finally moving down here. I believe what Steve and others are saying is that the only difference is the dip stick, drain, clip, or something else insignificant to the strength of the transmission. Offering a version with less bells and whistles was probably was a marketing ploy to help folks justify buying a new Wheel Horse.

Stumbled on this the other day, and while it predates the forum, I don't remember ever discussing it here. We all know that when we're in a dispute, feud or war with people (sometimes even neighbors and friends), it's often not the conflicting parties that are injured, but the collateral damage is more horrible. Such a case is highlighted below. Be warned... this is a bit of a troubling story.

Squirrel season just started last weekend here in Missouri. I'm out here camped out getting ready for my first day of the season, on my phone. I know squirrel hunting has kinda fallen by the wayside, but figured there has to be some old school types out there somewhere. I'll let you know how it turns out.

On the head.... Sad.

Very nice! glad you finally got a FEL... with cast wheel weights to boot! Enjoy your new toy tool.

We had chicken breast salad tonight for dinner. Chicken, grape tomatoes, salad, radishes and scallions. The scallions, lettuce and radishes were from our vegetable garden which we worked in for three hours today ! The radishes were only planted 30 days ago! Pole beans are coming up and we planted cherry tomatoes and peas today!

That was a goodby....I mean Good Buy!!

Oh yeah, especially if the cow-girl was in the picture too!

I use good ole' natural lubricant when I need to push in a shut-off-vlave...SALIVA!!!

Firefighters from the Norwalk Fire Department secured the tractor and helped bring it up the hill using a winch awww! see they even rescued the Wheel Horse!

Have you seen the Wheel Horse lube chart? The SA, SB, and SC classifications have now reached something like SL and theoretically a new one replaces the older one. You will find oil with classification like SC/CD. The S/x is for spark ignition (gasoline engines) and the /Cx is for compression ignition (diesel engines) so that oil is good for both if that is what the engine manufacturer specifies. That is what I use in my older Kohler engines because it is designed for flat tappet cams. Some of the latest SJ or SL oils are not. /C-Series oils have also gone up to CF or somewhere there. Garry

If you scrap it do it at my house

I don't know, I think Albert would spend a lot of time with his ipad on the Redsquare forum. Probably working the theory of relativity between grass screen build-up and loose valve seats on the Onans... ;)

I would have to say no go, Snopro...

Is it possible your blades are out of balance?

60 hertz at 115 volts! A Wheel Horse Lighted sign!

Wife finally decided the flower bed in front of our house has got to go.The rose bushes and black berry bush get to stay Loaded with weed paper I didn't want to get wrapped around my mower spindles. So I mounted up my semi-restored 8" plow (Made by Brinly) on to the 704 and played in the dirt some!

1st of all, . I do not see a 887 model Wheel Horse listed on my sheet....Could it be 877? A 877 would be a 1967 8 horsepower Kohler engine and an automatic transmission. Personally I do not think it would be worth $400, but condition of the tractor and additional attachments would make a big difference. Pictures of the tractor would help us determine value.

I can't speak for the 36" deck, but both of my '80's 42" side discharge decks have 1-1/8" blade nuts, and the hex-shaped "nut" at the bottom of the spindle shaft is also 1-1/8". That being said, a 1-1/8" socket fits loosely on those nuts, probably worn somewhat from 30-some years of rotating through all the grass/weeds/sand/mud/gravel I've pushed those decks through. It wouldn't hurt to try a slightly smaller metric wrench if you have one, if my math is correct a 28mm would be the next smaller size.

It also has the tiller/snowplow mount and stock hitch with pin. Hope he's ok, Been there/Done that-http://

I'm betting... there is a safety lesson somewhere in that story.

Looks like there is a scar on the cam, make sure it's ok. I have cleaned up several cranks in the past that measured up ok. Just wrap a couple layers of cloth around it and soak with the acid. Once the aluminum is gone clean it up with a strip of grey scotch-brite and have it measured.

Ok then! If the Onan is on a C-175, it's a transplant engine. Nothing wrong with that if it was done correctly. This is a tuff one! If the KT17 Kohler is a Series I and you have a hill to mow on, I say no to that tractor. If the C-175 with the Kohler is a Series II KT17, then i say yes to it. Especially true if the C-175 that has the Kohler engine also has the Eaton 1100 transmission. (You stated the Onan powered C-175 has a Sundstrand but you didn't say what the Kohler powered trannie is) The transplanted Onan is a good engine but the Sundstrand transmission is great until it breaks. then your hosed! (they are older transmissions and parts and the people to work on them are hard to find). Both engines are expensive to rebuild! Both engines have some "issues" that crop up with the exception of the Series II full oil pressure KT17. Depending on how much the gentleman is asking, for mowing 1.5 acres, you may want to look elsewhere. Again! It depends on how much he is asking dollar wise!

one problem with matching belts for older equipment is this,, I do not know when it happened, but manufacturers changed the belt designations. my machinist handbook(about 35 years old) shows when measuring belts, to measure on a fixture, because belts were dimentioned by pitch length. this was a measurement somewhere in the upper 2/3 area of the belt cross section. now the length is the outside length that can be measured by a tape. however this may only be for the 1/2 in belts for small hp usage. b belts and up may still go by the old setup. I do not know if this is so or not, but I ran in to this a lot when retro fitting older equipment. I finally bought a long (200 in or so) belt and cut it. I use this as a template by fitting it to whatever, pulling it tight and marking it. measure with a tape measure and a perfect fit, except sometimes a half hour of break in and its too long,but its usually pretty accurate if you get it tight. used that belt hundreds of times.

Well... when it comes to the 138 thing and your home fabbed idler.... it doesn't help that an A138 belt is 140"! So was he telling you a 138 belt or a 138 inch belt? The devil's in the details! There are a lot of posts here about tiller belts... and I'd guess you've read several of them. Your best bet is to get the tiller mounted and take it in. Proper fit will yield the best results. Let the dealer try out the different lengths for you... just be prepared to pay the dealer price for the belt. (as mentioned... it's right around $75) They're worth it if you take care of it in the off season.(don't just leave it sit outside... take it off, roll it up and protect it from direct sunlight) Personally, I wouldn't use anything but an OEM tiller belt. They're a weird HA spec similar to an A belt, but with more tensile strength or something due to the shock they take. Also...they're straight rubber... not fabric or kevlar covered. You want that direct grip power in the PTO sheave. Also a note about tiller use from my personal experience.... lock the rear hitch. Either with a pin (if your hitch has the holes for it) or tighten down the bolt/nuts on the keeper tabs. It's such a royal pain and will make you want to throw things when one of the keepers opens up and the tiller falls out of half the hitch in the middle of a pass though the garden!

A few pics from the big day. Wow this thing will plant way more corn than I need in a hurry!

I'm hoping others are as gobsmacked as I am by the irony in this post.

To the best of my knowledge, the 5091 did not have a dipstick. The 103907 (1976 & 77) had a short dipstick tube, and the 103916 had a long dipstick tube. Other than that, they are the same.

not much of an update, but it took a lot of work to get this decal right. Thanks Terry for all your hours of work!!!!! I wanted more of a satin black look with my decals and Terry let me try using unlaminated decals on my dash. all the decals on the upper and lower will be done this way. i didn't want the gloss that the laminated decals gives, wanted more of a match with my black powder. we also got the font correct and all the positioning right by scanning my original and then Terry went to work to make it what you see below. Im real excited about getting the others done now. we need to do a couple corrections on the final upper dash decal and then this one in the pic will be replaced with that. let me just say that applying unlaminated decals isn't for the faint of heart, i like to think i have a reasonable skill level applying them normally, but these ones because the material is so thin, kicked my a## big time. I didn't get this one perfect but i learned a little about what i need to do next time. i had some tiny spots of air on the throttle side still, they are impossible to move anymore, i gave up after 30 minutes of working on that side. the left side i couldn't be more happy with. the dash metal was far from perfect and that only made things more difficult.....

If the same belt has been on the mower for 10-15 years, by always being under tension it probably has stretched where it can't be tightened any more . . . this is very common with long belts. It should be replaced, I'ld strongly recommend using only Wheel Horse-TORO brand belts, even though they are made by Gates, they are made to a different & higher standard, and also have a unique angle (Agricultural), well worth 10-20% more for maybe 2-3 times the life. I found that eBay seems to have the best prices, but it takes a week. If we were all smart, we would release the tension after every mowing, but none of us do that, I don't think.

I've had 4 tractors on Craigslist now for several months. They have been "sold" four times since January. First guy had to cancel due to 2 feet of snow. That's understandable, but he never rescheduled. Another said he was on the way and would call me when he was 30 minutes out. No call, no show. The last guy said he would be here after 12:00 noon Saturday. I had no problem since I was home all day doing yard work. 6:00 pm rolled around and no show, so I texted him. Again at 7:00. At 8:30 I get a text saying "sorry man, I was in a serious dirt bike accident and I'm in the hospital with a broken leg and collar bone". Yeah, right. So yesterday I got an offer for all 4 tractors that I accepted. I suppose that they will still be available this time next week. Curmudgeon - you have every right to feel the way you do. There is something going on with society today that is just not right, and Craigslist brings out the worst of them. Edit: May 29. Two weeks after the offer for all 4, they are all still sitting.

Karl & Chasm thanks for the info-great map- This Ancestry search thing is getting wild! First I find a Tavern in the area-"New Midway" owned by my ancestor where George Washington spent the night during the "Whiskey Rebellion" And now I have found that during the invasion of Pennsylvania by Robert E Lee, the opposing forces of Gen. Howard used my ancestors farm at "South Mountain" for his Headquarters. It's beginning to look like a trip to the Big Show would be in order-then a Historical trip on the side. I'll have to find a way to make it work. Thanks- Al This page tells of the action around "South Mountain" 2Nd paragraph after the picture mentions the "Cookerly" Farm. http://www.emmitsburg.net/archive_list/articles/history/civil_war/south_mountain.htm

I've got a 8" WH slot plow restored for show and I'm looking for another to plow. As of now I have a slot hitch on the 704 and 12 /8. I have a Clevis hitch on Martin and a 10" Crasftsman/Brinley. But what I really want to plow with is my Power King. I have adapters to hook the brinley to the 3 pt.

I would not exactly call that "Settling". #1, You've got the Kohler Engine. You probably will feel better about that. I know I do with my KT-17 series 2 #2, Your 18hp Kohler has plenty of power to spin a 48" mowing deck. #3, You have the same transmission as in the 520 #4, There is some "Cool Factor" associated to the 417's and 418's I would say you made a wise purchase. I would have done the same if it were offered to me.