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Here's my take on this topic. For those of you who know me, lord knows I've bought and sold my fair share of tractors - most for profit (but not all). My asking price is never firm. It's the thrill of the chase in my opinion - for both sides of the deal. I have an idea in my head of what I want and always apply the "friendly markup" to compensate for wiggle room. On rare occasion you do get the person to pay asking price with no haggle, but more often than not its a negotiation. That's part of the fun. There are also plenty of cases where I'll drop below my desired price because it's someone I know or another member I've done business with in the past. In the process, I have "low-balled". Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. My overall intent though is not to kick the man while he's down. Like I tell my wife, he didn't have to say yes... I buy and sell, making small gains along the way, so I can buy tractors I want to add to my collection of keepers. With a family, house etc. it's my way of continuing my hobby while also keeping this addiction self-sustaining. I agree with Curmudgeon that there is no need for rude and inconsiderate people - that unfortunately will come with the CL territory though. Pad your prices, don't announce "firm" and roll with the punches a bit. I don't care how bad you think you have it, because in every hospital on every part of this earth, there are people living their last day wishing for just one more.

Just got this home my next project to restore Wildcat garden tractor

OK ... I'm sorry!!!!! I got yelled at because I had no idea how this worked. I just jumped in with both feet, and I guess I should have read a bit first. So ... I'll start over on my own post, and not trash up other guys stuff!!! Background ... in 1978, I got a new D200 for my Dad at Jacks Wheel Horse in Sarver PA. First two pics are when it was new, one nice pic, one with my big butt in the middle of it!! Over the years, it was used to mow, plow snow, and spread lots of gravel and dirt. One hell of a machine, period!! It also served Dad well as a grandchild entertainment device!! It replaced an older 6hp horse, which we worked to death. One pic here is me pulling a single plow with Dad steering , or should I say LEANING on it!! Even with all his weight that lil 6 pulled it!! So fast forward to 2014 ... I'm on a shortlist, with major coronary issues. On full disability for awhile now, just waitin for the backhoe to show up! Too much truck driver food I guess!! I decided to look for a D200 to restore. I figured I could do that at my own pace, day at a time. I found a complete, but crappy unit down in Naples FL, for way too much $$$!!! I looked at cheaper units, but when I added the cost of missing parts, this one became a much better deal. It has a mower only, big unit, guy said it's a 60, but I didn't think they put them on 200's, they were 250 only, right?? Anyway, this is gonna be a cruiser only, so at some point, I am going to sell or trade off ALL the mower parts, including the PTO, jack shaft and lift cyl, and probably the valve body as well. First step was to tear it to pieces!! Fasteners in a parts wash bin, everything else piled on shelves awaiting their turn on the wire wheel / sandblaster table!! For many years, I traveled the country, every state except AK and HI by myself, just me, my truck, and a creatively written log book!! LOL Now, I'm not about to cruise the woods alone. But wait, the D200 is a single seater!! Not no mo!! The first part of this is an 18 inch frame stretch so I can have a place for my sexy red head to sit!!! The most troubling part was how to modify the transaxle drive tubes. My buddy suggested welding hose bibs on each tube, then connecting them with soft lines. Sounds good to me!! WOW, talk about an expert welder!!! Sweet job!! So that's done, well, not the lines just yet. Have to mount the axle, and pump to get the exact length. Not much room for error, as high pressure soft lines don't bend very well!! The frame pieces should be done next week, and I can start putting it back together and get the lines made up. Now don't get in a rush, it's 92-96 deg everyday here, and the garage is usually 15-20 deg hotter than outside. Lots of sweat, lots of Gatoraide, and lots and lots of naps!!! LOL Now, I have to tell you about my first Red Square experience. I had to hacksaw the steering wheel off, so I needed a new top for the shaft. Member Bill Price from AL responded to my cry for help. He cut off an old shaft he had, and sent it, along with some other cool pieces to me FREE OF CHARGE. That's just wrong! LOL If that's the kind of people that are common on here, well, this truly is a special place. Many thanks brother!!! You get first dibs on my spare part pile, which will be pretty big!! Stay tuned!!!!

Here is some more pics of my custom Army Wheel Horse tractor, Model # 762. Formerly the very first 702 ever made, I added a 6 Speed High/Low tranny, hence the 762. It has alot of custom made parts on it and rare WH parts as well. Some of the features are custom front bumper with attachamatic brackets, 100 year old barn wood push pads, HL5 head lights, dual 953 tail lights, dual rear hitches, 1045 front tires and monster rear tires, NOS 701 dual belt set up and NOS 701 belt guard, Army oil can with leather strap and custom battery hold down bracket that holds the oil can, 2 grenades just in case, widened drive belt guard, new style brake band and pulley set up, step down foot rests and the Army paint and decals. I used a copper fuel line and a few brass nuts and bolts. Custom Fuse Ignitor (NOS WH Cigar Lighter) and head light switch box. A ton of work went into this tractor to make it look original. I forgot how hard it is to restore a garden tractor, especially when we started to assemble all of the parts on the tractor! It is a matter of trial and error for sure. Put a part on and take it back off. If you get parts installed in the wrong order of assembly, you have to take them back off to install some other part! It all came together late in the evening one day before the Sugar Creek Tractor Show. It was received very well at the show and made quite an impression on those who saw it. A very special thanks to my buddy Larry Packrat Eads for all of his help with fabrication and assembly! He knows his stuff for sure! I still have some paint touch up to do on it and some US Army Numbers to put on the sides of the hood. But for the most part it is finally DONE! It took more than 5 years to finish this top secret machine and now the cat, or Horse is out of the bag!

I've been wanting to do the wheel hub mod for a while now so I am giving it a try..... Got the hubs at Surplus Center...the 5 bolt low speed hubs for 1" spindles.... Then I got some 3/4 X 1" brass flanged bushings and some 1" X 1 1/4" X 1" brass bushings. Also a couple 3/4 X 2" bolts w/16 thread and a couple castle bolts.... TSC was selling the 3.75 X 8 inch 5 bolt wheels on clearance....got 2 of them.... I think you probably get the idea.....The bushings needed pressed into the bearings....I reversed the inside one to conserve room.....Had I known this I would have just got straight bushings without the flange...I thought I would need the flange to press the bearings together....now I know and can save a bit for the next time...if there is one... The straight bushing was trimmed down for the inner seal to ride on.....it is only about 3/8 inches wide.....all hack sawed and then used the grinder....no lathe in my shop.... Then I cut the spindle down and welded a section of the 3/4 inch bolt on the end...so easy a caveman can do it...well it looks like a caveman did it.... From the outside......still need to drill a hole in the bolt for a cotter pin..... Inside ...seal running on the trimmed bushing...... Total cost...... 2 hubs....33 bucks shipped...Surplus Center bushings, bolts, nuts......25 bucks....Fastenal 2 wheels.....20 bucks Less than 80....

I have two announcements to make regarding moderators. First, one of our original Moderators, Stephen (Rollerman), is taking some time back in the collector ranks of the forum. Stephen has been a valuable moderator who was always professional and ethical in everything he touched. His guidance through out the years has been an inspiration to me, and his suggestions helped build the forum as it is today. I value his opinion highly and will miss the daily interaction. The door is ALWAYS open for him to return as a moderator here. Stephen, thank you for everything, from the forum to personal I truly value our friendship and all you've done. Onto the second part of the announcement. I am very pleased to announce that Scott (whfan74) will be helping keep the peace. Most, if not all of you know Scott and the amazing things he's done in everything he does. He's often featured in Lawn & Garden Tractor Magazine, is the owner of Wheel Horse Junkies on Facebook, founded a tractor program in the school where he teaches and least us forget hosts an annual event which rivals the best put together shows in the world. I have always appreciated Scott's calm approach to issues and I had the pleasure to meet him at the WHCC show in 2013. When he said "Yes" I was elated. So, Stephen, thank you so much for everything, and Scott, welcome to the Moderator team!

...for the big show. The original Dino... http://www.scifijapan.com/articles/2014/02/26/restored-original-godzilla-gets-us-theatrical-release/ and his latest remake. http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/16/movies/godzilla-grandaddy-of-movie-monsters-stomps-back.html?_r=0 Some great reader comments there on the NYtimes page. Looking forward to seeing the big guy again... everything I've read, said this latest remake is going to be epic.

You guys are HARD ...... Poor, Poor Dino....

I don't know which one is scarier. The one in the movies or the one in Illinois!

Very good topic here guys for everyone to vent, because we all been there in way or another... I think Karl hit the nail on the head ..." Its human nature " Its just sad that the world is this way today but like Curmudgeon said... "You remember those who have been good to you as well as those who weren't!! " And with that being said I feel we all need a ....sorry guys ,you knew I had to go there...

When a polite no thank you results in follow up emails telling me I'm stupid, my stuff is junk, criticizes every thing I have.... I'd like to post some of the emails but they would be deleted. I don't need that, I'm no longer going to expose myself to them. If you want to counter offer a reasonable price, fine,but when I ask for no low ball offers, WHY ask? It's just a waste of time. If it's felt my price is too high, ignore me, don't criticize me. The last item in question did sell. It sold a little below asking price to someone who showed respect. Who made a reasonable counter offer. I should add, there has been a few good people through all this. One guy in particular who just happens to collect Wheel Horse snowmobiles bought some stuff from me during my divorce at asking price. He later admitted to not really needing it. Eventually I bought the stuff back at the same price, essentially giving me an interest free loan and free storage. If only there were more people like him! I'll say one thing, if he ever needs a 520 axle and steering for one of those snowmobiles..... I remember those who have been good to me as well as those who weren't!!

Pretty darn good vehicle all things considered. As far as stress testing the tranny goes...Pull the dip stick and make sure the fluid is clean, if not have it serviced. The 5.3 liter is pretty ballsy and near bullet proof. It will go the distance if you maintain it, I'm sure you will. Make sure you keep it clean under the Tahoe, the liquid road salt they put down these days eats away at these vehicles, especially the brake rotor backing plates, the fuel and brake lines as well as the rocker panels, which by the way are paper thin... Almost forgot, keep the bumpers free of road salt as much as possible as well as they rust out also. Keep a good coat of wax or protectant on the chrome if the bumpers are chrome. Car Faxes don't always tell you everything. If an owner smacks up his vehicle and fixes it out of pocket you may never know about past damage...

run it thru the summer and fall and just fix any additional issues . then decide if you are willing to invest another 500 - 1000$ on a restore.

So if you read my other thread you know I picked up a slightly mistreated '94 312-8 with a 42" SD for $75. Since then I've given her a bath and have checked everything except the transmission out (that will come soon). Initially had a charging problem which is why I got it so cheap, turned out to be a bent connector on the regulator. Took the deck off and found three rust holes, one on each side on the back and one under the tensioner pulley. I don't have any metalworking equipment so I took the deck to a welder in town, he cut out the rust and welded some plates in. Can't say it's the prettiest job I've ever seen but the problem is solved. One of the rust spots was under the height adjustment bracket so the deck wouldn't lock in the highest setting, two new carriage bolts and freshly welded plates later that is fixed as well. New belts all the way around and new blades, I'm finally ready to cut. Now, I told you that story to tell you this.... I'm finding myself pulled very strongly to restore this tractor to its full glory. I'll have to live with the ugly plates on the deck but I think a little grinding and fresh paint it will hardly be noticeable. I don't have the spare cash to go all out so it will be a budget restore and most likely a painful slow restore, especially since as of now it is my only option for cutting the grass. I write this to hopefully get any tips I can on the restore. Anything to watch out for, known problems with the model, that kind of thing. On the plus side, I may be getting an old Murray 42" mower for free or cheap that doesn't need anything other than a primary drive belt, so I might be able to put the horse up and work on it without having to work it as well. I'll find out about that in a week or two. Oh, and I will try to post pictures as I go, I'm bad about remembering to do that. First thing down is the muffler was rusted pretty bad, it got sanded and wire wheeled back to metal and a good few coats of BBQ high temp paint today. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Hey guys I made myself a 2" receiver hitch for my tractor to use with my 8 x 14 snowmobile trailer. My yard is a bit tight in the back so its tough to maneuver with the truck. I only moved the trailer loaded with 3 sleds once last year and when I did I barely had reverse and it wanted to take off with a wheely going forward. I did some research on here and came to realize I had the common problem of the cracked trans mount plate. I started to redo my tractor its a 90 312-H and in that time came up with a pretty cool fix that requires no fabrication to the tractor. This may be a bit premature as I haven't really put any attachments back on my tractor yet so I cant say 100% that it wont interfere but I don't expect there to be any issues with my 42" rear discharge deck and definitely none with my snowblower. I designed a bracket that mounts to the 2 lower trans mount bolt holes and gussets and carries the load up to the frame. It mounts to the trans and the frame using existing holes (circled in blue) so I just had to get 4 longer bolts, 2 3/8-16 and 2 5/16-18. If any of you have the same problem and would like info on this bracket let me know and I can either provide u dimensions or make a bracket up and ship it to you. I only put the holes in that mount to the transmission and drilled the holes that attach it to the frame by hand to ensure a perfect line up. Let me know what you guys think!! As long as there are no interference issues I should be able to tow my house with my Horse without my tranny tilting and screwing up my linkage.

1675 S. Columbian Rd., Oregon, IL 61061 http://hinrichscustomwoodworking.com/AJs%20Garden%20Tractor%20Jamboree_registration.html

Hope these help, some of these pics might be repetitive. . The 1/4" nut welded to the right plate is where one end of the spring goes. Otherwise the plates are the same.

Don't stress too much about what you read in the forums on cars/trucks! People get a bug in their crawl about something then it's repeated, etc etc. Remember that on most of those sites, no one is there to praise things. They are there because something went wrong and they want answers and then it is a place to commiserate. Sure there are trends where you'll see the same issues pop up on a model year but when you consider the 10's of thousands that were built, many are not issues at all. They get hyped into issues. PS.I hate GM and I own a Chevy Truck. (See what I mean)!

Decals are in the plans.....might try to pick up a set at the show. Thanks for the comps! Mike.............

Well I finally got a chance to spend some time down in the shop. Got both engines removed and all the parts from the original 160 that need to be transplanted over to the B60 removed. Also got the replacement engine tins for the 16hp primed and painted. I'm gonna put the original 160 back together with the 8hp and put that up for sale. I decided to keep the existing transmission in the B60 but it leaks and needs a new axle seal. Just going to pull it apart, clean it out and replace all the seals while it's out.

Good job! Just one question...why 5 bolt hubs and not 4?

Hi Eric, I'm no expert....but I'll give it a go, first though we need to know a few things. How big is your plot. What soil type do you have, light sandy brash or loam over clay or clay. ( what about stones / rocks ). Is your plot grass, rough vegetation or bare soil at the moment. What vegetables do you like to eat? therefore want to grow. How fast do you want to make this all happen ? Do you want to garden organically or don't you mind using fertilizer's/ spray's. I don't know what sort of weather you get, but that will be a big factor as well. All things are possible, with patience.

HELLO REDSQUARE, There is something I have been wanting to share with you.... For mt capstone project for school I decided to restore a wheel horse 857, I have a thread in this forum about my restoration but I figured i could start a new one for the finished product. As it sits right now I have an almost new Wheel Horse 857 with a new carb, exhaust and it runs like new, right now there is only the tractor that is restored but I have an RM-367 on the way, following that I have a snow plow for it, and this weekend I am going to pick up a wheel horse Earth plow and a cultivator so I will have quite the machine when I'm done. This whole machine was done with rustolium regal red out of a rattle can. I stripped almost all of it with a die grinder from harbor freight and I primed with rustolium auto primer and then I did 3 or more coats with the regal red and then at least three coats of rustolium clear coat. This is what i looked like when I bought it: http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/1381145010_zps4bf60dc9.jpg.html?filters[user]=137754535&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=51 http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/1381145004_zps9e982a8c.jpg.html?filters[user]=137754535&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=53 and here it is now that I am all done http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_007_zps72ae1298.jpg.html http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_006_zpsee13fca0.jpg.html http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_003_zpsf733e269.jpg.html http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_002_zps8618edb9.jpg.html please leave comments I want to hear what you guys think of my very first restoration

My 857 had the tabs broken off. Lucky for me, they were still attached by the bolts to the rear of the belt cover. I re-welded them back onto the frame and after a little tweaking, everything lined up fine.

Yeah, you must be missing the mount tabs. They're just a small piece of steel bent into a Z shape and welded to the frame in those locations. They have a hole in them which are tapped for a 1/4-20 bolt to hold the guard. I'll see if I can get you a pic when it stops raining tomorrow.

It is going to be muddy on the roads at AJ's...we are on grass, but that is going to be wet also. Wear the right shoes and dress in layers. Heads up. Could make for some great pictures.

Thank you. We are limited to a maximum of 192 SF so "big" is a bit laughable. If I lived in the sticks it would be at least 20X40 but since I don't ....... have to deal with what the town will allow without going through the lengthy appeals process.

The blower is only going to add about 2 to 2 1/2 feet in front of the horse. My opinion...build the biggest shed you can...it is like building a deck...looks pretty big when you have strings stretched out on the lawn...but...put the patio furniture, grill, cooler...and then add the wife and her plants..."wished I would have built it bigger".

"How to" Youtube them Eric... lot's of video on both of them there.

Now that I have repainted mine I have already used a little spray quick detailer on it and I could see myself adding a coat of wax. I have already made minor scuffs and scratches reassembling it which have been tough to swallow. My friends and family all think im nuts for the most part too, that's why I like sharing on here because I know you guys understand I actually had to bite my tongue a few times while my younger bro and his buddy were helping me reassemble to not yell, "hey watch your hands you might scratch that!!!" hahaha.

That's what I'm finding out. The original switch was pretty frozen up from sitting outside so I took a toggle from the dash of my Model T hot rod project and ran new wires. It's the first time I've seen them work....ever! And they're really quite bright! The other mower in my pic is my 1964 Toro. Don't know much about it other than it cuts really nice and my 10 yr old loves to mow with it. All old stuff all the at my house!!

It's the nature of the beast for this hydraulic system to drop a bit when the load lever is moved after being in the center position. these hydraulic systems use a fixed displacement pump that bypasses or builds no pressure until it is diverted thru the valve to do work, consequently you get a little drop when you try to lift a load. The newer no drift systems use a constant pressure variable displacement pump along with usually pilot operated valves, so their is always pressure on the system in the valves even when they are in the neutral position so that when you move the valve the hydraulics don't have to wait to sense the need for pressure to lift the load.

Before: http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/1381145010_zps4bf60dc9.jpg.html http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/1381145004_zps9e982a8c.jpg.html After: http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_007_zps72ae1298.jpg.html http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_006_zpsee13fca0.jpg.html http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_003_zpsf733e269.jpg.html http://s769.photobucket.com/user/Eric857/media/WP_20140514_002_zps8618edb9.jpg.html try that?

...or two, or more.

Ive gotten some more work done over these past few days so I have some more pics!!! I now only have a very small list of things to do, paint the front of the hood black, install my new rubber floor board covers, reassemble the seat bracket(paint currently drying) mount new seat, and then apply all of my new decals when I receive them!!! I was able to test out Matts foot pedal kit earlier this week and wow that seems like an awesome addition. If theres anyone out there still on the fence about it I say pull the trigger I am extremely happy that I did.

I had a mint 2003 Z71 Tahoe in White with gray leather. I had it for a few years and LOVED it !! IMO it was the best riding vehicle I ever owned. I sold it because I really wanted a truck that I could use around the new house I bought back 2010. I regret selling it for sure. Like Will said the fuel pump did go in mine. The pump is in the tank so that was a decent job. The only other issue I had was the oil pressure switch went bad on mine and was reading wrong. Changing that was a pita. It is located on the lower back center side of the block. That job was one I would not want to do again. Anyhow good luck with it. I am sure you will love it.

I think you paid a fair price too. fuel pumps and trannys are the two big ones on all the 99-07 trucks. it seems the trans will either go around 100,000 or if not they last until the 170-200,000 range from my experience. have a good look at brake lines, especially up over the rear axle on the frame, also near the abs motor, they were underneath the driver position on the trucks, not sure on the tahoes. O2 sensors can be a problem sometimes, mainly just connectors, but they can fail too. hows the engine when cold starting? i know the early 5.3s were terrible with cylinder noise when first starting up, but they are a great engine and if they have been serviced regularly, will normally out last the vehicle, especially in the salt areas...... i mainly had trucks, but i know a few guys with the tahoes/suburbans and they are fairly similar with the mechanical issues, I'm sure as these vehicles get older, electrical issues will arise...... the z71s are a nice looking vehicle, waiting for the pics!

Markets vary. I recently was looking for one but could not find a good suburban. Suburbans are cheaper than tahoes. From my research the major things that fail are fuel pumps from owners running them low on fuel, and service the tranny, otherwise 150k-170k tranny replacements are common if not serviced. Otherwise the rest is built proof good for 300k change the oil and normal wear and tear. Btw tahoes around here are in that 6-7 range i think you paid a fair price.

I'm with Brandon. While I'm afraid to really low ball for something I really want, the fact is that the worth of these tractors is only what someone thinks it is worth. A low ball offer, "Will you take . . . ? " can be met with a polite, "No, I'm pretty firm on the price." Why does it need to be more complicated than that? I sold a rusty WH tub trailer to a neighbor's grandkid for $10, gave away an easily restorable Simplicity Yeoman tractor to a guy to also take away some junk, sold a small 1000 lb GVWR trailer for $40. Just metal, and the folks got a great deal and went away really happy. Good times all around. Jeff

Well I put the tin back on the old girl today and finished rewiring the switch harness and lo and behold it fired up. Blew a little blue smoke for about a minute and that cleared up nicely. It sound great and I am a very happy camper. After I eat supper I am going to put the seat pan and hood on it and cut some grass. Then I think I will have a beer.

I will be the first to admit that I almost always ask "will you take $x". I am just starting a family,have been married for just under 2 years, have a 1 year old and another on the way. I really enjoy my tractors, but I try to get the best possible deal I can. Otherwise I would not have tractors. I am both a 'low-baller' and a nice guy. There is no actual set value to any of these things, its just a number that people usually pull out of their rear end and around me they are usually WAY over priced. I am always willing to respect if someone is not interested in my offer, and if they respond I will either politely decline or come to a price that we can both agree on.

I would run it on a healthy diet of Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel. There is something in it that does not burn off and if the rings are stuck it should free them. Garry

Soaking a piston is not really worth it, in my opinion. You are aware of the proper way to go at the mechanical side of the motor. Doing is halfway just temporarily prolongs a certain early death. It's a tough call when budget constraints come into play, but doing it properly saves more money in the long run.

Wow! what kind of wax do you use? The engine is so shiny, I can't even see it!

Yep, I said that about the Senior.

Here's the 701

One owner machine, PO worked it it's whole life... and all I've done was wax the bejezus out of it.

Just the pic off eBay.....haven't received it yet.

Eric's talking about this little picture in the it's there, I just put it there earlier this week. Unfortunately it didn't have the model number. But I see in your scan that it is CBR-327. Great pictures by the way.

There are a couple people here who also have that version, but I've never seen a different manual for it. Here's a picture of one though... for those that don't know there is a different version.