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Thanks for all the nice comments folks but for my brother and I this is what it is all about...the Wheel Horse's allow you to be a kid again!

I met Lane and Dave a few years back. They came up and got some stuff from me. They are Great guys! ~Duke

Isn't it amazing what guys paid for these tractors when new?? $3,-$4-,$5.000 for a little tractor 25 or more years ago when a dollar still had some value. And today, when we talk about how durable and long lasting they are, buyers brag about how little they pay, and sellers have to almost beg for scrap metal prices.

Father 's receipt for my L107 in 1967. I do not know what value was given for the tradein. It was a 4-5 yr old Porter-Cable Mk 26 rider.

Originally sold, 6 July 1963, my model 653 sold for $554.50. Still a bargain to this very day.

It finally stopped raining long enough to get the pics of the 312 Hydro I got last Saturday. Just got the new front tires on, it has the chrome hubcaps also, I have them in the basement trying to get the rust off.

A buddy of mine told me he was cleaning out his shed and told me he was scrapping out a couple of tractors and one was a wheel horse so I told him to let me check them out before he crossed the scales at the scrap yard and this is what I picked up for 100.00 was it worth it ?

Here is some pictures of the tractor with the new shoes.

They are durable and long lasting because they were build good. Good almost always equals more money. You can buy a new John deere or Cub for under 2000 now with deck, 2 cyl engine etc. but do not expect it to be around in 20 or 30 years. If all you do is mow a nice flat lawn then they might be all you need. If you want to blow snow, till a garden, plow your gravel lane, drag a non-running car into the shop then you will want a well built heavy duty machine. Cleat

I think (I think) the switch to Onan ended the Kohler Magnum twin run in the Wheelhorse. I'd say a 18 hp Magnum twin powered Wheelhorse would be one of the great combo's Wheelhorse ever made.

Here are two price lists from a dealer with the Wheel Horse company official prices for 1957 and 1958 tractors and attachments. These came with the literature from a tractor I bought in Oklahoma this year. It is interesting that the Dump Trailer (LTD-24) was Not on the 1957 list but is on the 1958 List.

What was it worth when new? Answer, EVERY PENNY!!

I have a Raider 12 8speed to donate for another club project, let me know when you want it, no time constraints or limits. When you have a place to store it let me know and we'll work out the logistics

Hi Butch, All the major brands have attachments like WH did. Wheelhorse had the only product line that made implements that fit a broad spectrum of tractors over a long period of time. The no name 70's tractors to the C series to the 300, 400 and 500 series all had, (for the most part), interchangeable implements. No other manufacturer of tractors did this. Many manufacturers changed their model years frequently and each model change meant only that model year implement fit that tractor. Also......don't be too hard on Toro. They could have killed the 300 & 400 series tractors when they purchased Wheelhorse but they didn't. As a matter of fact, they kept the line going for almost 2 decades including the availability of parts. They even added the 500 series to what they called the "Classic" line of Garden Tractors. I would like to think that Toro may have actually helped Wheelhorse rather than hurt it. They may have gone under in the late 80's had it not been for the Toro buyout!

Butch, It's just an exposure thing. You probably haven't been looking at the other makes so haven't noticed that most all of them - Deere, IH, Simplicity, Case, Allis, Sears, etc. - offered basically the same lines of attachements for their tractors as did Wheel Horse. They all had snow removal equipment, tillers, sickle bar mowers, loaders, sprayers, fertilizer spreaders, cultivators, mid blades, etc. In some cases, they even surpassed the WH offerings with hydraulic equipment and accessories. Most everybody offered some kind of rear lift system. Most were an available accessory that attached easily and did the same job as the WH slot hitch or clevis hitch. In fact, WH was a bit of the odd man out when you consider rear lifts since they stuck to the propritary slot hitch design and avoided the clevis/sleeve hitch for so long. Three points were probably more widely available from other makers too. Most of them offered some kind of quick attach hitch system. Some even permitted multiple implements to be accomodated at the same time. The market was quite competative and nobody drastically outdid the other guy for very long or with very many accessories. As you look around you'll also start seeing that a lot of the attachments amoung the various brands look incredibly similar. That's because many of the items were manufactured by outside suppliers and differed primarilly in attachment hardware. Snowthrowers spring immediately to mind. Haben, Roxy Bonner, Bervac, Ohio Steel, etc spring to mind as suppliers. I didn't really realize the competitiveness of the industry until I started to get interested in other color tractors. Innovations were largely shared among the makers. I'm not sure I'd agree that Toro ruined a good thing. They tried to sell what people were buying and hung on to the old tractor designs way longer than probably made sense to the ownership of the company. Hardly any of us bought these things new in the Toro days (post 1986). There's a lot of neat equipment out there. Poke around a bit on the Simpletractors, weekendfreedommachines, or onlycubcadets sites for some neat pictures of some wild attachments. Steve

I had the pleasure of meeting Lane, David and their uncle at an Evansville (Indiana) tractor show several years ago. We had a great time swapping stories. I spent the entire afternoon with them as my wife went to town to shop. When she came back she asked Lane "How much do I owe you for baby-sitting"? That got a good laugh from everyone. I make it a point to visit with Lane every chance I get.

Last week I was going through the Ebay postings. Wheel Horses, especially round hoods, in Florida are as scarce as snow in Key West. But.......I found one and it was 15 miles from me. I contacted the seller and went to look at it. A Surburban 400!!!!! That was really cool to me because that's the very model that was my Dad's first Wheel Horse in 1960 when I was 6 years old. The hood in all there and in decent shape. The tool box and fenders were pristine. The K91 ran real well but he had installed a crankshaft from a generator and it had a tapered shaft. He welded a pulley on it. He did a pretty nice job but that's gotta go. The tranny jumps out of 3rd but I'm not concerned about tearing into it and making it right. He removed all the plastic from the steering wheel because it was cracking bad. It won't be hard to remove because he had cut it to get it off the shaft and it was just bolted on. Here's the resto tractor I've been looking for . I really don't see anything that should be a problem. The first thing I'll do is flush the tranny and then it will be reduced to kit form. Of course I'll be on here looking for some parts when I confirm what I need. Yea, I know. I'm lying unless there pictures. The plan is to pick it up tomorrow morning and then I'll post pictures of the 'before'.

I was wondering what my Wheel Horse Tractor cost when it was new? I search the site and didn't see any documents or and information on prices. It would be cool if someone had a list or if there's a list out there on all the Wheel Horse tractors from 1950s to 1990s on prices when they come out of the showroom. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Bob The tranny on a Senior is Ford V-8, The tranny on a Lever Steer is Model A. The clutch on a Senior is The Ford V-8 Clutch. The Clutch on the Lever Steer is a Rockford Overcenter clutch. The gear reduction boxes were cast specifically for the Lever Steers and the Seniors- sorry guy you are going to have to make your own gaskets or get out the Ultra Seal. The hub seals are available as a Ford part through Snyders.

To adjust the cam, you need to jack up the rear end, remove the rear wheels, and place it on jackstands. Adjustments are made with the tractor running. Make sure that it is secure because you need to lean under the fender to access the cam (it is too much of a tractor to come down on you!) There are complete directions in the Service Manual. It takes longer to jack it up than making the adjustment. The cam is in the large hole in the upper right.

KBLAKES He is full of HORSE HOCKEY! 30wt oil will work just fine. I use 10W30 Full Synthetic Four Stroke AMSOIL in all my Hydro's But Dino oil will work just fine. Make sure you use a Wheel Horse Filter tho as they don't have an Anti Drain back valve that restricts Flow. And by the way To ~Duke

My Dad's 1977 B-80 price. wow $1,500 is a lot of buck now!!! yes Squonk..that is a Techy logo on the receipt!

very cool pictures Lane.

Just run it, if you ever manage to grenade it (and I seriously doubt you ever will) 6 speeds are plentiful as well as 3 speeds and most will bolt right up. About the only thing to worry about on these is if the bearings and seals are in good shape. Also change the fluid every coulple years and make sure no water got in and your good to go. We have some pullers on here that regularly put 35HP plus in these trannys with no modifications at all.

I can't answer your questions, but the 418 is one of my favorites for sure. The last one I had was very clean well kept and I used my tiller with it. That thing was so smooth and sounded great, I am always looking for those.

OK, I admit I did not study in detail all the previous dialog so take this with a grain of salt. In my 30 years of engineering I have learned that electrical things don't start due to one of three things, a missing part, a bad part, a high resistance connection. The evidence I read about the 30 amp fuse getting hot/melted and the fuse block being toast leads me to believe that the female terminals inside the fuse block have corrosion on them (blocking the flow of current) or are sufficiently corroded so that they are restricting the flow of current. Either way, this condition will either lead to one of two things (an open circuit) or a thermal run away (aka a fire). I would go for replacement of the fuse block and all fuses in it.

I picked up a used 1998 314-8 just before Christmas. The original sales slip was in the document package. Tractor, 42 inch SD deck, and a sweeper was over $4200. I think I remember my 1996 314-8 with a 42 inch RD deck was around $3400 when new.

I still have my receipt from 1987. 310-8, chrome hub caps, 37'' SD deck with Bagger. 2500.00

I payed $2215 for a 1977 C-120 with a 48" mower deck and a tub cart. Don't have the price of each.

My 1994 416-H cost $5,100.00 with 0% financing! Price includes 42" RD with Recycler, dealer threw in a free WH belt buckle!

Mike: Some how my posting did not make it from yesterday... Pedal is probably just an adjustment, nothing to worry about Tranny warm? Remove the access that allows you access to the tranny fan and fins. My bet is that just needs a good cleaning all around in there. Speed is not reached becasue of the linkage is not tight like it use to be from factory for the pedal. Price - Well, Glenn is a little correct, but then again, that was a steal for that machine... They don't come up often, and when they do, they usually are a bit more than one would hope to pay.... However, it is a 522xi, the hours I would not be concerned with. I would use the linkage, speed and overall service that is needed to haggle a lower price... If you can get it for $1,200 to $1,300, that is more where it probably should be. RC

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/16-misc-items/?sort_order=ASC&sort_key=file_name&num=10&filter_key=all&st=10 Here is where you can find them all in the "Misc" section of manuals. There is a price list for 1957, 1958, 1963, 1964, and 1974.

I also have converted an RT 366 for use on a later tractor. Here is a pic of the mounting frames on the front of the tiller. The shorter one is the one from the RT366. I didnt move my pulley on the input shaft, but I am using the old style, 2 belt type of belt drive system. I was also reluctant to cut up the original RT366 mounting frame, so I purchased a later model one from Kelly. There are plenty of tillers with worn out tines on them, I would think it would be possible to get a later model mount fairly easily.

Nice Find!

I think I pulled a back muscle just looking at that mower deck.

there are a couple price lists if you search in the brochures and manuals sections. But I think the newest one is from 74 or something like that. If you click on manuals up top, and enter price in the search bar, you'll find a few.

I ordered another fuse block for it but I'm still doing the single holder for the starter circuit fuse just to see if it's the whole block or just that circuit. NAPA will have both my new Bosch relays tomorrow. Now I need some time and some sunshine! On the other hand, I did nail another nice Brown Trout of 18+ inches tonight! Rain has it's advantages too! I know I have some high amps and low voltage across that fuse block. I'll get it ironed out. Thanks SOI and the rest of you guys. As always, RS has the experts on call 24/7. I'm here for comedic therapy!

I still have my receipt. 1987 418A = $3295. 42" sd mower deck $512

My wife and I had the pleasure of meeting Lane & his bother at the L&G expo & 1st Bantam reunion in Edinburgh Indiana a few years ago, great guy.

Are you bringing some of that "Jet fuel " Van?

Loving that you didn't give up on getting it out of there others that are not WH enthuse would of gave up and left.

Tonight is another big night for the kids in tractor club. Stay tuned for updates. Thank you to everyone that is following along on this journey!

There are two styles of 36" Tillers and one of them is NOT for the 312A tractor. It is for much older model tractors from the mid 60s to mid 70s and the front connecting bar on is has an offset that MAY be your whole issue. Have a look at these pics and you'll see what I mean. Please excuse the pics....I borrowed them from ebay listings and are the best representations I could find at the time. NOTE.... the difference in the mounting bar and the whole bracket too, as CIRCLED. If you bought one of these older tillers, you MAY be able to change the mounting bar(s) hardware to upgrade it to the later style.

Thanks! I have a long way to go.But......Front axle is tacked in,spindles made but just need a little cleaning and rounding off of the corners.Got to get some steering rod ends so I can make the tie rods and get the arms welded to the spindles.Also need some bushings so the wheels dont wobble.Should have a little rake to it.It's still sitting on a stand to keep it from rolling off my table,as it is too short now that the frame is longer.

looks like i missed out on a great day..... oh well, spent some time with my wonderful wife having a quiet day...... so wheres all the pics from everyone else?

Cleat

Horses back in the stable. Now to get to work on the attachments. Cleat

Decals applied today. Tractors are looking more complete all the time.

105 hp!

Looks good! I just put 26s on two of my machines last month, the 12" width worked fine on my stock 520H wheels, but they don't flatten the tire out near as much as my other set, which I bought used and already mounted on a set of 10.5" wheels. I think the wheels may be off a cub cadet but they have 6 4 336733 coats of paint so who knows.