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You all may remember previous posts a few years ago about the rebuild of this particular 1955 Pond RJ-35 by RedSquare member fireman, aka Jeff. I purchased this RJ-35 from fireman about three months ago on February 1st. Jeff had done an absolutely fabulous job of making this tractor mechanically sound including new rear hubs and a complete engine rebuild by Charlie Pitcher. Since I bought it, I have repainted the rear wheels black, painted the rear tires with Miller black tire paint, and touched up some of the red areas Anyway, I still need to paint the front wheels silver which would be correct for a 1955 Pond RJ-35 and touch up some more red areas. This tractor is really nice and I mean really. The engine starts on the first pull and purrs like a kitten. Very proud to be the new owner of this one. I am so looking forward to bringing this guy with me to the big show in Arendtsville, PA this year.

Just received a slot to sleeve adapter for my Brinly plow.

So I recently picked up a 314-A that was in need of a serious cleaning and also a little rust fix. The worse spot was at the base of the hood where it attaches to the hood hinge. It was completely rusted through and the hood finally fell off after I opened it a few times. Below are some pictures of what it looked like when I took it off the hinge. My plan is to cut it back a bit to get away from the rusted areas then weld in a new plate with a little reinforcement to fix the hood. Below are some pictures of replacement laser cut plates I had made for this fix. I made some measurements and drew up the plates in cad and kept fitting till I liked it then sent it out to get laser cut. I added an extra plate like what was in the hood for more support. I had two 1/4" holes cut so I could bolt the plates together for welding and once I am done with the welding I will remove the bolts and they will function as drain holes to prevent water build up from rusting it out again. hope to get to trimming the hood and tack welding it up this weekend and see how it fits

Just Finish up my Wheel Horse pump. I like the patina look but this will do. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Cultivators are a tool designed to hook up to the tractor so that you may spend even more time on your Wheel Horse. Seriously, cultivators were considered absolutely indispensable in farming until the advent of chemical herbicides such as 2-4-D, Round-Up, etc., during the 1950's. The drill began for the farmer every spring with plowing, then disking, then planting. Depending on the crop and weather, Mr. Farmer would cultivate at least two times before harvest. The tines or shovels on the cultivator were designed to be adjusted to the row width of a specific crop, such that when it was pulled down the rows, the tines/shovels would glide between the rows, cutting the weeds off at the root. Some designs also permitted the shovels to throw dirt either toward the crop row, or away. Again, dependant on what type of crop you were growing. In the past 15 years or so, cultivators have made a resurgence in popularity, mostly because of the increase in demand of organically grown foods. I remember back when I was a kid, my Dad would hook up the cultivators to the old Farmall H, and drag them around the fields. He called it "worrying the weeds". Although a properly set up and operated cultivator did a pretty good job, you could never get all the weeds. Still, for a garden plot, a set on the back of your Wheel Horse will spare you a lot of hoeing.

Update - I'm a big ole dummy.... I went out and pulled the tarp off my poor horsey. I was about to push it down to the barn and shoot it. Then I noticed something hanging down. My blankety-blank belt came off. The cheapest fix I've ever had. Still embarrassing to think of all the time I dreaded going out to look at it. Go ahead, laugh! I did.

I plow, disc, then cultivate. Plow to turn it over. Disc to beak the dirt up. Cultivate to break it up even more and level it out. I plant my garden so that I have 30-36" between rows so that I can fit my tractor down them. I usually cultivate the rows to keep the weeds down. I have 3 minions, errrr kids that HAND PICK the weeds from around the individual plants. Unfortunately my oldest and best helper will be going away to college in the fall. I already told the other 2 that they have to pick up the slack!

A friend asked me about doing a custom tractor for his daughter. She came up with the idea of a fish tank tractor and this may be a custom that hasn't been done to a Wheel Horse before. It started out as a beat up Lawn Ranger but now has a C hood to completely cover the tank. Runs with a starter generator motor to keep down vibration. You can kind of see the horizontal tube inside the tank which a strong LED light shines through. Mirrors on both ends really reflect the light and it's even visible in the daylight. Air bubbles use a 110v pump powered using a small inverter. Clutch pedal will loosen the belt like normal operation and when pushed all the way, it will shut off the motor. Didn't get any pics of the top of the tank but it's rigged so the water will not splash out but also allows access to the inside. I don't know how long it will drive using the large capacity deep cycle battery but I'm sure she'll find out tonight after they get home. They plan to have it at the Zagray show in CT next weekend, complete with the tank decorated and live fish. Here's a couple pics of the Wheel Horse Sea-01 and the new owner.

That's what I keep explaining to Mrs Funengineer. Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2

Oh yeah! Hood turned out awesome!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk another shiny shot for you Craig......

Along with the cultivator I picked up Tuesday, I also picked up a C-160 Auto roller...decent seat (with arm rests ) and decent all the way around. He also had 2 A-100's that I needed to buy if I wanted the cultivator....kind of package deal. If anyone needs any parts off either of the A-100's, let me know....send me a PM...if not, those two, with the exception of a few parts will be going to the scrapper... I also picked up a really nice 1999 314-8....800 hrs....42" SD deck. It runs like a top!!! I'll get picks later...still trying to recover from getting back to my house at 3:30AM

If kids kept my weeds down I can guarantee you one thing, they weren't my kids.

what about one for every 4' x 6' space in the garage?.........

I welded a long bolt on top of the larger HF tire changer...2.small disc blades (same size to fit inside 8" rim) put one blade on bottom, then tire and rim, then another blade on top...run nut down on bolt to hold rim in place.....and you are ready to work on the tire...works for me..poor guys have poor ways!!!

A few threads ago in the Implements and Attachments forum 'Sybesma07' posed a question about dating a 10 cu. ft dump cart / trailer. Despite the low res photo from an ad I guess, I recognized it as looking remarkably the same as one that I’m restoring at present, the thread is here: It also made me think of the research I’d done into dating carts like this which I thought I ought to complete and share so here it is. The information was pieced together from the Toro Lookup site, the Wheel Horse Interchange document, and cart manuals from the RS repository. If you have any corrections to make or have photographs to offer then please do chip in. --------------- In 1976 the range of WH trailers available was expanded from just the 5 cu ft dump cart and four wheel wagon to include 10 and 18 cu ft dump cart models. The 1976/7 10 cu ft model (10DC01) is distinguishable by the fact that it had a tubular draw bar. It had the red / white WH decals (large on the sides and small on the rear panel) and I strongly suspect the loading decal (21) was also red / white. -------------- Literature for the 1978-80 models (also designated 10DC01) shows that the tubular draw bar had been upgraded to a C section rail. Despite a new decal design having been introduced for the 1978 range of tractors like the C-121, the diagram shows that the red & white WH decals were retained certainly for a time. I suspect that this was a way of using up old stock. The example that I’m restoring has a large WH decal on the tail panel rather than small but does have the newer style black loading warning sticker. --------------- The 1980 – 85 model was designated 10DC02 and incorporated a further change of design in that the draw bar spacer (12) in the previous diagram which bolted to the tub bed was redesigned and now bolted to the front panel of the tub (see below) This diagram shows the new C-121 style decals for the sides. The fact that no decal is shown for the rear panel is probably an omission from the diagram as it is shown on the 18 cu ft model. The catch has also been redesigned to suit the new spacer bracket. ---------------- Attachments and accessories lists for 1986 model tractors indicate that WH dropped trailers from its range completely at this point as manufacturing of them at South Bend had ceased. I suspect that pricewise they could no longer compete with third party manufacturers. Although trailers are not listed on the Toro site for specific tractors from 1986 the Interchange document shows that during 1985 WH started buying in trailers from Ohio Steel (who continue to make attachments under contract for well known names today). Trailers listed from 1985 onwards included the following dump carts: a 4 cu. ft., two 7 cu. ft. (one with a sloping back), a 10 cu. ft, a 17 cu. ft. and an 18 cu. ft. I guess that this represented the Ohio Steel range at that time. These were given simple product codes like WH4 (4 cu. ft. cart) and these codes are not recognized by the Toro site. There were no four wheeled wagons. Out of interest, 1985 also saw WH start to buy in various other attachments e.g. sweepers from the Lambert Corporation and the 10†Moldboard Plow from Ohio Steel. It is possible that there was some kind of collaboration between WH and Ohio Steel in terms of carts prior to 1985, I say this based on the fact that the Ohio 7 cu. ft. with sloping back (designated WH7-1 in the WH range) has a pretty much identical trip lever to my 1978 WH 10 cu ft cart. Looking at this photo posted in another thread by 'varosd' it also seems likely that the first Ohio Steel 10 cu. ft. carts made for WH would have been welded rather than bolt together construction, perhaps the tooling was transferred. --------------- So where do the 10 cu. ft. WH carts that look like the Agrifab bolt together models fit into the story I hear you ask. Well, a search of the Toro website for ‘carts’ brings up some models for which no years are given and no diagrams are available. A complete list can be found in the Interchange publication where they are listed as: 79900 4 cu. ft. Cart, 79901 10 cu. ft. cart, 79902 14 cu. ft. cart, 79903 17 cu. ft cart These are also listed by Toro as being manufactured by Ohio Steel so I think one can guess who still makes the 10 cu ft carts for Agrifab. Trawling through the compatible tractor models listed in the Interchange document it would appear that Toro WH did not introduce matching tractor models to specific outsourced products (like the Ohio Steel carts) in all of their documentation until 1993. . 1990s WH 10 cu. ft. cart by Ohio Steel - photo from a post elsewhere by 'AMC rules' There are marked similarities between this tub design and other generic carts were badged up for a number of well known names; examples I’ve come across include ‘Lambert’ and ‘Husqvarna’ though there are other differences. Could this just be the evolution of the cart by Ohio Steel or are these carts by another manufacturer? Knursen has suggested to me perhaps by Lambert. Does anyone have a Toro / WH badged trailer exactly like the one above? Out of interest the Toro Lookup site’s list of the later ‘bought in’ carts includes a 10 cu ft ‘poly dump cart’ – has anyone seen one of these? Anyway, hope all of this may help others date one of these carts. I don’t imagine there are many good examples of the 1976 – 1985 South Bend produced examples around anymore, certainly here in the UK most that have come up for sale in the last couple of years (only a handful at that) have been the later Ohio Steel type. Sorry for not including much about other sizes of carts in this potted history but this took long enough - perhaps some other time when I'm feeling inspired. To conclude for now a couple of pics of the 14 cu. ft. cart made for WH by Ohio Steel and posted elsewhere by 'wh5208speed' Andy (obsessed, or possessed perhaps, by carts at the moment)

I just bought this 'Horse last Saturday. It's a Raider 12 and a 7-1252 tiller. The tractor starts and runs, but needs at least a set of rings (lots of blow-by and smoke). All the gears work, and the rear end is nice and quiet. Came with a 42" deck and what are supposedly pretty new blades. The tiller has all the needed parts (belt, mid-mount idlers, axle-mounted hitch, and helper spring) except for the idler spring, which I ordered today from a local Toro dealer for $6 and change. I gave $100 for the tractor and $75 for the tiller. I don't know anything about WH serial numbers, so I could use your help in dating the tractor. The plate says: 1 6241 611970 Thanks for looking!

I'm posting under dads profile because he's a supporter and can post more pics. We got the trailer and tractor done finally with decals on it .Dad put the decals on just before he picked me up from school. I was surprised to come home and see the tractor sitting in the middle of the yard with the " Not forgotten " decals on it. Terry did an amazing job with the decals, they turned out just how I wanted them.

It looks even better in person. Sorry for the crappy pictures. There is lots of grease protecting that pretty orange paint. The clutch and gearing is really cool. Drive tires look like new. The center pivoting tire is shot. I was told it runs. I only had a few minutes to look at it before leaving town. The guy that owns it is a college student so his dad was showing it to me. Too many younger brothers (4) in the way to really mess with it plus I had to go. I want to make a reasonable offer but I also want a good deal Sent from my tractor seat using Tapatalk 2

Martin take a break ... head over to Metone this weekend - - but - - don't come back with a #4 416. just funnin with you. Really nice Rick

The 414 is still outfitted for Winter duty and a quick look at some parts of the lawn today showed that it REALLY needed a mowing. Thankfully the 416 was just waiting for the chance to come out of the shed. While it's quick to change over attachments, it's even faster having more than one! So guys, if you only have one, you need to start looking!

In addition, you may have it overfull, or the breathers may need servicing. An to avoid a flame war, walmart does sell some good oil. And their supertech line is very acceptable. However the brand of "non detergent" SAE 30 oil is very poor. It is not thermally stable at all, and will leave a ton of deposits on the bottom of the piston and in the ring lands of the piston, clogging the oil return capabilities.

that is one sexy hood very very well done, just as the rest of the tractor Koen

Hi Mark, thanks for the suggestion. I have seen the turning brakes setup and one of those pedals would be ideal though I have not seen them around for sale. I would imagine them to not be cheap if they can be found but I have not looked into it. Fabricating a pedal will be fairly easy for me to do. The linkage to the forward/reverse control is very simple for this tractor so it is just a matter of the pedal and a mount and I would like to keep it as off the shelf as possible so that I can post what I did so that others can copy it for their own tractors. If I can name specific parts and where they can be purchased rather than people having to cut, bend and weld it will be a change accessible to a larger number of people. I could put together a conversion kit like the Darling kit for the non-Sundstrand transmissions but I would probably not be able to meet his quality and free time is such a short commodity these days to take on projects like that. I am more than happy to share what design I come up with though that others can replicate.

Seriously clever, very nice job!

Just a thought on lubes for the tranny. Many of these old cast iron transmissions go for years, if not decades with oil that has never been changed. Almost all of the ones that I have found have some amount of water in them. So my theory is, ANY new lube, whether 75W or 140W, cheap or expensive, has to be better than the crap that came out when you drained it. I use the cheap stuff from Walmart and it works just fine.

Thats real cool . i like it alot. i want one

Frank, really like your idea.

Early production 953s have the smaller headlights, the later ones have the larger ones.

I would use a disk or tiller after I plow. I use the cultivator to weed between rows. I plant my corn rows 36" and will run the middle of the tractor over the plants till they are to big or another way to look at it is the plants go thru the middle of the cultivator and turn up the dirt on either side of the plant. Im sure people use them all different ways this is just how I do it.

Tomatoes, Hot peppers, Bell peppers, onions, string beans, iceberg lettuce, radishes, cucumbers and silver queen corn.

I finished all the upgrades to the hydraulic system on my 444. It consisted of replacing the travel control valve with a more modern one, with built in holding valve, which keeps the tractor from being able to gain speed on declines, and just helps with overall performance. The next upgrade was adding a flow control valve, which allows the tractor to go very slow, with full power to the wheels. Our wheel horses don't suffer from these short comings, but these Case GT's do. These Case tractors really are a very solid built machine, but they really should have had some of these features standard on them, and not optional. This 444 is now a pleasure to use for tilling, and I'm very happy with the way it performs. I still have a few brackets to make for holding the hydraulic hose from rubbing on things, but thats about all I have left to do. I've already built an exhaust shield to protect the bypass hose from heat, as well as making a control lever thats more user friendly. Here are a few pics. Thanks Matt

Another option is to fill it with inexpensive gear lube, none of it is cheap anymore and then add some butyl cellusolve and run it for half an houf to get the moisture In suspension in the oil before you drain and refill for use, then replace the shifter boot. butyl celusolve is one of the ingredients in oil based paint and should be available from a real paint supplier, not your local hardware or big box store, you may have to sign a hazmat shipping form to get it.

Loading the trailer today. Can't wait to escape the northern Michigan cold. Staying in a heated cabin at Broken Arrow Campground in Winamac See you there.

Yep, you will need to fill with kero or diesel but do limit the amount of driving. If possible just jack it up and run it a bit without a load on the wheels. Just use a cheap gear lube, almost any will work from 75w-90 up to 75-140, and even the 80w-xx and 80w-xxx. My beleif is to use a less expensive gear lube and change more often than to go with syntetic. Also the shafter boot should be replaced.

Neil, it's probably only going to see attachments only for shows. I don't really have any plans for working it as of now? One of the guys has a plow days for us guys here in NW Ohio which was alot of fun. If I can find one I might attempt to pull a plow. I do have a rear blade for it also which maybe but probably not I'll do it with the loader tractor. Other than than I'll probably put a spreader bar on it to hook the four wheeled wagon to. I have to believe they would look good together.

Make sure you drain it from the bottom plug too. There is a hex screw on the bottom (often hidden by dirt and crud) that will let the oil drain out the bottom (and you'll get more out) It could be that consistency from water getting in (shifter boot usually). I had that problem after plowing.

If you can lift the front of the tractor up about 18" you will get more out of it. There is a hump on the bottom for the center case through bolt. Garry

which means the "resistance" you measure with your meter will depend very heavily on the meter's ohm range internal test voltage - which varies considerably from different meter manufacturers. Since semiconductors are non linear devices - you will not get an exact match from meter to meter manufacture. if battery parasitic drain is suspected, insert your meter on the high mA scale in series with the negative battery wire and terminal. Start disconnecting wiring until the meter indication drops off to zero (or at least a very low current). Do not START the tractor with the meter in series with the battery leads. The high starter current will blow the meter fuse.

My new C-175 came home with me this past fall. Was out aerating today, appears he was pretty happy to be doin' it too.

worked on the hood. stripped the paint in our strip tank at work. then spent nearly 4 hours removing all the dents. after quite a bit of dent removal, lots of small ones all over, couple in the front right on the edge of the front and side were a bear to smooth out. also had one in the ribbed part of the front which i made up a flat bit of steel with a slightly curved edge to use as a mandrel to get out. smoothed all the worked metal with a 60 grit pad on a small angle die grinder. then 120 and 220 on a da sander..... then it was off to the blast cabinet to blend all the sanding. just a scotchbrite and should be good to go......

Always pays to have back up for your back up.

Thanks for the nice words guys. We are definitely having a lot of fun with this project. It is hard to believe everything that has been done and accomplished this year. What a great FIRST year for the club. My 603 has now been put on hold and it doesn't look like I need to even bother with having the kids mess with that as we have enough things to do to keep everyone busy. It is now a race to the finish line as we only have 7 more club meetings left!!!!!! Now I am getting a little concerned. It looks as though a Saturday morning work day will be in our near future. We don't have a choice......we have to be done with at least the club tractor. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can............we are the little club that could! Stay tuned as the wrenches will be flying in this mad dash to the end. Thanks again for following along!

Made this mount for my harbor freight mini tire changer. I hope its as easy to change tires as it looks in the videos.

we tilled and set up the garden fencing this weekend, we were going to do some planting but have some heavy rain in the forecast. we'll most likely plant this coming saturday. the garlic is 5 inches tall though, woo hoo for november planting. lol

We got the old girl out of the shop for a little exercise, seemed to run well. The fuel sending unit will have to be replaced, an air filter fabricated and the goofy square lights replaced. Other than that it's done.

7 is far better than vista. Might be cheaper to replace it, than upgrade at this point. I would not try to load 8 on an XP machine. Your XP machine will not suddenly die, it just means that Microsoft will no longer support it, meaning security patches and such will not be available.

Looks good lars Jake

Great work Lars! You did such a super job on the snow blade...the trailer had to come out looking as nice!

Nice job Lars! Matt :flags-texas: