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Just Finish up my Wheel Horse pump. I like the patina look but this will do. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

I just bought this 'Horse last Saturday. It's a Raider 12 and a 7-1252 tiller. The tractor starts and runs, but needs at least a set of rings (lots of blow-by and smoke). All the gears work, and the rear end is nice and quiet. Came with a 42" deck and what are supposedly pretty new blades. The tiller has all the needed parts (belt, mid-mount idlers, axle-mounted hitch, and helper spring) except for the idler spring, which I ordered today from a local Toro dealer for $6 and change. I gave $100 for the tractor and $75 for the tiller. I don't know anything about WH serial numbers, so I could use your help in dating the tractor. The plate says: 1 6241 611970 Thanks for looking!

The 414 is still outfitted for Winter duty and a quick look at some parts of the lawn today showed that it REALLY needed a mowing. Thankfully the 416 was just waiting for the chance to come out of the shed. While it's quick to change over attachments, it's even faster having more than one! So guys, if you only have one, you need to start looking!

Hello all Redsquare members! Don't know how to post YouTube links here, so, I will ask all of you to check out an original song I wrote, and recorded all of the music, about my father. I know what it takes to fall in love with these little red beasts! Lol! Memories! Good ones at that! That's what I have from growing up with the 701 my father purchased when I was born. Hope you all enjoy, and, thank you! Search Wheel Horse The Old Man's Little Tractor. I, wheelhorsefanatic, posted it. Thanks for taking the time to read this and check out the vid! Happy Horsing!

That's FREAKING AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!....but sorry, not as cool as your sweet line-up of round hoods in the background of pic #4

what about one for every 4' x 6' space in the garage?.........

CAN WE ALL FILL UP ?

Same thing applies to winter. 1 for plowing 1 for blowing and a short framer for fun!

Thanks for all the wonderful compliments! I really appreciate it! You never know...a live performance could be at hand! Haha

I've had a pretty busy spring. It was really warm in March so I had alot of calls come in to get some roto-tilling done. I did a few back in March but did the bulk in the last week. So far I've done 18 jobs. From a 4x8 foot plot up to a 100x100 garden, and everything in between. Most are gardens but some are people putting in grass or landscaping. Some jobs are current gardens but most lately have been breaking new ground. The C-125 does an awesome job but one garden just kicked mine and my tractors butt. The ground was so hard I literally had to stand on the tiller to get it to push into the earth. Doing that got me down about three inches, then I switched to turning circles so the tines were cutting sideways into the earth. That got me to about 4-5 inches deep. It was a 15 x 30 garden and it took me like an hour and a half. Anyways, here's some pics. I know you want them. Breaking new ground for a wildlife trail. How a garden should look after my job is done. On a side note, my tractor doesn't have an hour meter, so how often should I be changing the oil during this rough use? John

Saw this C-195 on Craigslist last night about 10PM, met the guy this morning at 630 to claim it!!!! Went to pick it up this afternoon and was told the phone had been ringing off the hook all day with angry guys. Was quite the find and steal, that is for sure, especially for this area. '83 with 2000 hours on the clock, in real good shape, one small crack in fender pan. Needs a carb cleaning and a good service and it will be ready to work. Where would the model/serial tag be on this tractor, I am used to 4 and 5 series tractors? Want to make sure it is an 83. The drive clutch handle rattles like crazy while engaged, I havent looked yet, is there something that I can tighten up? I am used to Onan's, anything crazy to know about the KT19? I know they, like Onans, have their issues!

it needs some work. sorry the picture quality isn't real great.

Dude, I just saw that Saturday and it didn't look like that at all! WTF! GREAT JOB!! You certainly don't mess around! Looks real nice Shawn!

I just got done driving the 417 and 416 around the yard. Parked them in the barn and was getting ready to close it up for the night. I was finishing my can of beer, looking at the black hood just sitting there. I said what the hell. Cranked her for about 15 seconds. Something sounded a little different. Cranked her again for about 15 seconds and Hot Damn! She started to run! I sat down and throttled up. The 16 horse shook at idle but at full throttle she smoothed right out and was quiet. I took up and down the driveway going thru all the gears : everything was good! I didn't do anything but clean out the tank, flush the lines, and put in a filter. I changed the spark plug, cleaned out the bowl and sprayed the crap out of the carb with cleaner. She sounds good with just a few small backfires at full throttle: I will adjust the carb tomorrow.

I would use a disk or tiller after I plow. I use the cultivator to weed between rows. I plant my corn rows 36" and will run the middle of the tractor over the plants till they are to big or another way to look at it is the plants go thru the middle of the cultivator and turn up the dirt on either side of the plant. Im sure people use them all different ways this is just how I do it.

I finished all the upgrades to the hydraulic system on my 444. It consisted of replacing the travel control valve with a more modern one, with built in holding valve, which keeps the tractor from being able to gain speed on declines, and just helps with overall performance. The next upgrade was adding a flow control valve, which allows the tractor to go very slow, with full power to the wheels. Our wheel horses don't suffer from these short comings, but these Case GT's do. These Case tractors really are a very solid built machine, but they really should have had some of these features standard on them, and not optional. This 444 is now a pleasure to use for tilling, and I'm very happy with the way it performs. I still have a few brackets to make for holding the hydraulic hose from rubbing on things, but thats about all I have left to do. I've already built an exhaust shield to protect the bypass hose from heat, as well as making a control lever thats more user friendly. Here are a few pics. Thanks Matt

dirty was right. Here is a photo after I took the rear fender off. Years of grass and leafs. Looks pretty good after a clean up though. Still need to clean the engine really well but I did at least put a new air filter in.

We all like love it! With more than one Horse, need one too!

That is awsome !

I just hope no 's were harmed in the making of that pump.

Very nice and that gives me an idea? Now I just have to find a used, good condition pump!!!

I like it!!!!!!

Hey Mac! will you check the oil too!

You have a 1054, I just checked my 953 and mine appears to have smaller headlights, also the 953 have gold headlight buckets. This would be the only true indicator along with the decals to say you have a 1054. Going by the engine numbers and dates doesn't really work because WH was notorious for using up previous stock on next year models.

that looks great

I recommend installing spring loaded seat mount with mircroswitch. Interlock the ignition so the tractor can't run if you're not in the seat. That's how the new tractors are done. You can fashion a seat and spring assembly from steel angle and a spring. An injury from the tractor could last your lifetime.

You can keep the patina look. Imho that new paint really makes it POP! I hope you bring it in at night. I would hate to buy one like it on ebay. LOL,,,,,,,,,,j/k kudos on a job well done. thumbs up. Glenn

That's sooo... nice.

Now that is S W E E T !

You guys do that too? We use the old milk cans and lids or soccerballs for a big bang by the way, the moles hate the smell of it Koen

Never thought of using the carbide. I have a keg of this stuff.... left over from the days when we worked the coal mine with carbide lights. Only time I use it now is on July 4th....It makes a great cannon out of a 1 gallon paint can. Not recommending this for home use.

Then my guess that it would be a 312-8 it believe it has the 1" axles and a 4 pinion differential but it may have 1 1/8" axles with an 8 pinion differential.

Hmm. Only one photo came up. Here is the other. The engine is getting a little tired, and has blow-by. Doesn't smoke much, or knock bad, so will try to get through the mowing season before I tear it down and overhaul.

Idling a long time is a relative term. I dont consider A few minutes or so "a long time". If whatever I'm doing takes more than a few min of course I shut it off to save gas and kill the noise. The reason for my overthinking is the terain in some places where I'm going to be using the thing. Certainly, for most of the barnyard work, the factory P-brake is sufficient. For other places an added measure of safety is a good thing to consider, more to keep the thing from drifting while OFF if the shifter gets bumped into neutral. In any event, my overthinking things is a normal part of working out a problem, simply because you overthink a thing doesnt mean you actually go there in practice. It is part of the engineering process as you probably well know. You overthink something and back off and look at it. More often than not the K.I.S.S. principle wins out. I am still going to install the factory brake, if I can get one. Depending on how it performs (it may be more than enough I dont know) I may leave it be and surrender to the designers wisdom. And I might add a little extra measure to amp up the safety factor. I am used to having to redesign every boneheaded machine I get ahold of that has a design flaw.....Ive been injured enough over the years to think safety first on almost everything. But, this machine's requirements for use in this job is it must be able to be locked in place, clutch relesed, and if possible brakes tightly locked. will the factory thing do that? Probably! The issue I have with the thing (actually the only thing really) is it is an auto release when you hit the clutch brake pedal....this has a possibility to be a problem.....in some areas. So I do need the factory part. The steel looks a little thin for the job but, since I have never seen one or seen one in action I have to assume it is made for the profit margin fo the manufacture and not really for the hard use it is going to get. But that is the starting point to making this tractor safe again. Just because my mind wanders down Overthiking Lane doesnt mean I actually go there. As an engineer you understand the process of rethinking everything 1001 ways but always making sure you dont create a Goldberg device out of the darn thing. I like the Wheelhorse design for its simplicity and effectivness in that simplicity. I despise over designed machines. It often takes overthining a thing to grasp how wonderfully simple it is to begin with. This parking brake MAY be perfect. As I said, since I have never had one or used one I automatically doubt it simply because mass produced stuff like garden tractors are mostly always far from, "well designed". And I really dont wanna get run over again, so that desire to avoid repeating the accident makes me redesign it in my head a bunch of different ways. But the factory part.... probably more than adiquate. Once I install one I will know! I'll ether buy one here or ebay or fabricate one. Redesigning the brake system is an idea, not a plan to actually remake the brake system.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageSize=20&beginIndex=0&searchSource=Q&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&pageView=image&searchType=1002&autoSuggestURL=AutoSuggestView%3FcoreName%3DMC_10001_CatalogEntry_en_US%26serverURL%3Dhttp%253a%252f%252ftsc-prod-lb01.crossview.inc%253a3737%252fsolr%252fMC_10001_CatalogEntry_en_US&searchTerm=tractor+seat

Does anyone have a picture of this "assembled" on a tractor. Curious as to what it's worth also. Thanks

Terry, you can count me in. I am planning on being there! Decals on the GT look great. Thanks again

Yesterday was a good day. Went to the shed to look for a hitch pin and found a hub instead. I had a 5 gallon bucket of parts that I had stripped from a '74 B-80 two or three years ago, and in the bottom was a nice 1" hub. Also, went to my PPG jobber and picked up a couple of quarts of paint. If the weather holds out, the engine will get painted this weekend.

if you have good original bolts why not replate them? As was mentioned some bolt sizes/styles are unique. find a plating shop nearby (iff possible) and get them redone. prices vary, but way cheaper than buying new. i have gone both routes, less than a 1/3 cost to replate than buy new, and you can get all the other plated parts on the tractor done at the same time for the same cost. most places charge a flat fee for a certain weight. The place i use charges $40 for a 3/4 full 5 gallon bucket. In the pic below the parts make up less than half of that.... I've done two batches on my latest tractor, have way more than i need to finish it, most economical way is to pull the whole tractor apart and take everything in in one go and pay for just one batch....... i can get them done in yellow and clear, these are yellow....

Hi RMCIII! I will test this mounting later in spring, but now it works with my wooden parts Regards Kludden

I did flush it twice last weekend , then got put on 12 hr.days so hopefully sunday back out in my garage to put the 80/90 back in it, thanks for asking! Oh and I did check the boot it looks good, must be like steve had said condensation from the very cold winter we had. Joe

You are over thinking it (and i'm an engineer, i overthink things for a living). The parking brake has worked on these tractors for 40 years. Buy a tractor with electric start and call it a day. You will probably end up saving time and a life at some point in the future. I'm with Steve, Darwin has an award for a reason. As an aside, these engines are NOT designed to be idled for long periods of time. Cooling and oil lubrication requirements.

Marvin's on his way back to his birthplace!

Your float doesn't look too bad to me. Here's a little trick you might want to try. Take a glass bowl and mix 2 tablespoons of flour, 2 tablespoons of salt, and 2 tablespoons of white vinegar together. Mix until the salt is dissolved and you have a nice paste. Get an old toothbrush and start brushing the mixture all over the float. Rinse it off with water and you will have a nice shiny float. Might take a couple of doses, but it's a cheap way to make old brass look new. Take before and after pictures for us.

Just can't keep a good black hood down

I'll bet you find a nice tractor under all that crud. Nice find.

anyone tried using calcium carbide? the stuff that produces acetalyne when it gets wet, drop some in the a mole heap, and the moles are gone. if you want it a bit more spectacular splash some water on it and wait a few seconds before you light it Koen

You can say that again!

I'm planning on customizing Marvin my C-145 pending getting some decent sheet metal at the show. It won't be a full restore but it will be different. I was originally going to go Work Horse silver but I have decided on a different color scheme. Only myself and Terry know what it is.